1 



M 







Book 3A 



&feetd)es of Zmtxita. 






NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY 

OF FIVE THOUSAND MILES 
THROUGH 

THE EASTERN AND WESTERN STATES 



AMERICA; 

CONTAINED IN EIGHT REPORTS 

ADDRESSED TO THE 
THIRTY-NINE ENGLISH FAMILIES 

BY WHOM THE AUTHOR WAS DEPUTED, IN JUNE 1817, TO ASCERTAIN 

WHETHER ANY, AND WHAT PART OP THE UNITED STATES WOULD 

BE SUITABLE FOR THEIR RESIDENCE. 

WITH 

REMARKS ON 
^KBKCK'S "NOTES" AND "LETTERS." 

SRADSHAW FEARON. 



tpsfm 

* 3 



*eet; 

WN, 



* o 







\ 






ADVERTISEMENT 



TO 



THE SECOND EDITION, 



1 he early demand for a Second Edition of this 
work, affords decided evidence of the deep-felt 
interest which exists in the minds of the people 
of England upon the subject of Emigration to 
the United States. 

With the success of my Jlrst effort I am much 
gratified, and hope most sincerely that the 
information contained in these " Reports" may 
be of benefit to my countrymen, and also assist 
in producing a correct and sound mode of 
thinking in relation to the country and people 
of America. 

Some friends of general liberty have sug- 
gested that this work is calculated to injure the 
principles which they, in common with myself 
and my most intimate friends, revere : if this is 
its tendency, nothing can be more opposite to 
my design \ but I feel confident that the pub- 

A 2 



IV ADVERTISEMENT. 

cation of truth ought not, and indeed eventually 
cannot, be detrimental to the cause of political 
freedom and human happiness. 

That the state of things in the American 
Republic should be so opposite to what the 
advocates of enlightened opinions in Great 
Britain imagine, is a fact which none can deplore 
with greater sincerity than myself; but that, in 
my opinion, this difference is not chargeable 
upon the political principles of their government, 
will be seen by a perusal of the review of the 
American character, which commences at page 
350., and to which I beg to direct the attention 
of the i flective reader. 

I have to solicit indulgence for the gram- 
matical errors which exist in the first impression, 
and have also to state, that my avocations will 
not allow me to attend to their correction in 
the present edition, at least sufficiently early to 
meet the public demand for the work. 



H. B. FEARON. 



Adam Street, Adelphi, 
Nov. 6th, 1818. 



i 



ADVERTISEMENT 



TO 



THE THIRD EDITION. 



The Third Edition of this Work is presented 
to the Public under feelings considerably re- 
moved from those of anxious concern which 
attended the appearance of the First Edition 
in last October. At that period sufficient time 
had not elapsed for the receipt in this country 
of a practical correction of that delusive enthu- 
siasm concerning the United States, which 
had been so widely propagated during the early 
part of the past year : then, indeed, it was 
hardly possible to impress upon the mind of 
the English advocate of enlightened opinions, 
that America, judging from the frame of her 
government, could be different in the reality 
to that which had been anticipated. Feeling 
this estimation of the Republic to be general, 
it was with no ordinary anxiety that I submitted 
my " Reports" to public scrutiny. Now, how- 
ever, within the short period of four months, 
statements have arrived from so many quarters 
\ a 3 



VI ADVERTISEMENT 

of the American Union, which in all important 
points confirm the general tenor of my ideas, 
that I should be affecting a degree of humility 
which I do not feel, was I not to assert that 
the opinions I have expressed on the subject of 
America, were the result of the most faithful 
enquiry, and most solid conviction; and that 
whatever portion of regret may be felt upon 
the subject, it may now be assumed that my 
" Reports" are but too true. 

With regard to the Western States, there 
have been several authentic and highly important 
letters in the daily journals, from persons who 
have emigrated there ; and even Mr. Cobbett, 
in his Weekly Register, has given an able expo- 
sure of some of Mr. Birkbeck's fallacies ; — 
while referring to Mr. Cobbett, I have to state 
my surprise at a most unmanly attack made upon 
myself by that writer, though I feel it quite 
unnecessary at this time to enter into a defence 
of myself from foul personal abuse, aided by 
very gross falsehood, of which indeed the article 
alluded to solely consists ; and I wish to express 
my regret that a writer of Mr. Cobbett's distin- 
guished abilities should take so rnuch pains, as 
he appears of late to have done, to commit an 
act of suicide upon his reputation. 

Amid letters from various parts of the empire, 
upon my Sketches of America, I select twc, 



TO THE THIRD EDITION. Vll 

which for their brevity as well as the satisfactory 
support which they give to my statements, are 
perhaps worth recording. They are both written 
by gentlemen to whom I am personally un- 
known. The first in order, it will be seen, is 
not addressed to myself : it was received by a 
gentleman interested in ascertaining what degree 
of dependence could be placed upon my pub- 
lication. I am informed that for the purpose 
of aiding his judgment he sent the work to a 
friend just returned from the United States, 
and received in reply the accompanying note. 

" My Dear Sir, 

" Many thanks for the perusal of Fearon's 
Book. — You may rely upon it — it is the best 
account of America now in print. — I was only 
a month behind the author, following the same 
tract, and I can vouch for the correctness of his 
statements throughout. 

" Yours very truly, 

" G Y l 

* Pimlico, 
" 30th Oct. 1818. 

« To C — O i Esq." 

A 4 



Vlll ADVERTISEMENT 

The second is from Mr. Fqrdham, of Royston, 
Hertfordshire ; his son went out with, and now 
forms a part of Mr. Birk beck's colony. By all 
interested in that subject it will be esteemed 
an important document. 

" Sir, 
" Having a son in America, who went out 
with Mr. Birkbeck, 1 have been anxious to gain 
every information relative to that country. 1 read 
with the greatest avidity, both Mr. Birkbeck's 
books, but without satisfaction ; since I have read 
your review of his publication, the grounds of 
that dissatisfaction have become more apparent. 
My son, in all his letters, particularly in those 
which have been lately written, draws very 
different conclusions from Mr. Birkbeck, though 
they reside upon the same spot, and view the same 
persons and things ; — his ideas on the Ame- 
rican character, as well as on the subject of 
emigration, are precisely yours. — Many per- 
sons have emigrated, and many have it in con- 
templation, without any just knowledge of the 
character of the people, or the means of sup- 
porting themselves in the country. — On which 
account there was wanting such a work as you 
have produced, a true history of facts without 
colouring. In reading your work I have received 
so much conviction of the truth of your repre- 
sentations, that I cannot do justice to my feel- 



TO THE THIRD EDITION. IX 

ings without making my acknowledgments to 
the author. I am desirous my son should read 
your work as soon as possible, and therefore 
request to know if it be published in Ame- 
rica, and where -> if not, shall send it over 

immediately. 

Yours truly, 

Elias Fordham. 

r 

At E. K. Fordham' s, Banker, Royston. 
Dec. 23. 1818. 

Mr. H. B. Fearon, 

Care of Longman and Co, 

Paternoster-row. 



With every wish that the United States may 
exhibit to the world as valuable a practical as 
they do a theoretical example, 

I subsr ibe myself 
Their well wisher, 

H. B. Fearon. 
18. Adam-Street, Adelphi. 
Feb.25, 1819, 



INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 



In submitting the following pages to the Public, 
it is my wish that the reader should be put fairly 
in possession of the circumstances under which 
they were written. 

1 was deputed by a circle of friends, whose 
persons and whose interests are most dear to 
me, to visit the United States of America, in 
order to furnish them with materials to regulate 
their decision on the subject of emigration. 
Into the motives and the views which led to this 
proposed measure on their part, it is not requi- 
site that I should enter much in detail; they 
are, I fear, known and felt too generally to 
render description necessary. 

Emigration had, at the time of my appointment 
assumed a totally new character : it was no longer 
merely the poor, the idle, the profligate, or the 
wildly speculative, who were proposing to quit 
their native country ; but men also of capital, 
of industry, of sober habits and regular pursuits ; 
men of reflection, who apprehended approaching 
evils ; men of upright and conscientious minds, 



♦ 



Xli v INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 

to whose happiness civil and religious liberty 
were essential ; and men of domestic feelings, 
who wished to provide for the future support 
and prosperity of their offspring. 

Under such circumstances as these it was, that 
my friends directed their thoughts, in the way of 
enquiry merely, to the subject of emigration to 
America ; having so done, they naturally set 
themselves seriously to investigate the state of 
the country and the character of the people ; but 
singular as it may appear, they were unable to ob- 
tain satisfactory information. Most of the books 
which they could procure contained statements 
which were evidently partial ; some w r ere written 
to exalt and some to villify the situation of the 
country and its inhabitants, but none of them 
possessed that kind of information which was 
wanted by my friends ; no lists of prices, of 
wages, rents, &c. # ; no statements, or but imper- 
fect ones, relative to individual trades or manu- 
factures \ little or nothing, in short, of that 
homely kind ©f intelligence which was wanted 
on such an occasion. It was at length, resolved 
that some one should visit the country to make 
the necessary enquiries — the lot fell upon my- 
self j but I owe it in justice both to the public 

* It may be proper to observe that, in the following 
pages, the prices of live stock, &c. are often stated in what 
may appear singular amounts ; this arises from turning 
American dollars in$o British currency. 

I 



INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. Xlll 

and to myself to state, that circumstances, which 
at the time, left me free from my usual pursuits, 
rather than any snpposed peculiar fitness for the 
undertaking, guided their choice of me for the 
task ; although it is among the first pleasures of 
my life to reflect that they relied, at least, upon 
my faithfulness and industry. 

Recurring to the fact of publication, I pre- 
tend to few, if any, of the accomplishments 
which are deemed necessary for the regular tra- 
veller, writing professedly for the instruction or 
amusement of the public. The information, 
however, which I was deputed to collect, I 
sought for with all the diligence, and forwarded 
with all the accuracy in my power. It was my 
wish to put my friends as much as possible into 
my situation — to inform them both of what I 
saw myself, and what I learned from others, 
where I thought that information might be re- 
lied upon. My enquiries were facilitated by 
various introductions, and aided by some per- 
sonal friends who had previously emigrated to 
America. 

I arrived in the city of New York August 6th s 
1817> and finally quitted that place May 10th, 
1818, after having made a tour, including 
both the Eastern and Western States of the 
American Union. Returned to England, I 
have, naturally enough, received applications 
for information relative to the country I had 



XIV INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 

visited, from many persons disposed to settle 
there : some of these were parties of respect- 
ability and capital, not dissimilar in their views 
and objects from those which my friends had 
proposed to themselves. To these, therefore, the 
information I had collected might be supposed 
to be not unacceptable ; many others, for 
various reasons, may wish to be possessed of these 
facts : such are the motives which have induced 
me to submit my " Reports" to the public. 
In forming their estimate of this production, I 
have therefore to request of my readers to bear 
constantly in mind the view with which I have 
written, and not expect to find the work that which 
the author does not pretend it to be. My object 
has not been to make a book ; but circumstances 
having occurred to give me information which 
appears valuable because it may be useful, I 
wish to give it to the world, — and am content 
to do so in a plain, unvarnished manner. 

The work may have many faults and numerous 
imperfections. Little accustomed as I am to 
write for the public eye, the critic will probably 
find in it much to censure — in style — in arrange- 
ment — and perhaps in materials ; but the object 
I have had in view, will, at least, be a pledge to 
the public of the faiilrfulness and sincerity of my 
statements. My intention in writing has certainly 
been neither to flatter nor deceive : my Reports 
were originally composed neither with a view to 



INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. XV 

fame nor profit, — neither to exalt a country, to 
support a party, nor to promote a settlement 
I have had every motive to speak what I thought 
the truth, and none to conceal or pervert it. 
The interests of my dearest friends depended 
most intimately upon the correctness of my 
statements. I wished to put them in possession 
of every thing I knew : the public will now 
decide whether what I have found to com- 
municate be either useful or instructive. 



TO 
THE FRIENDS 

OF 

CIVIL AND RELIGIOUS LIBERTY, 

THROUGHOUT GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND^ 
THESE PAGES 

ARE RESPECTFULLY SUBMITTED,. 
BY 

H. B. FEARON. 



Plaistow, Essex, 
October 2d, 1818, 



, 



SKETCHES OF AMERICA, 



Voyage in the Ship Washington from Isle of Wight. — - 
Celebration of American Independence on board. — De- 
bating Society. — Ojf Sandy Hook. — First Impressions 
of the People and of the City of Nexv York. — Mrs. 
BradisJis Boarding- House. — Commodore Rogers. — Con- 
versation at Dinner. — Suspicion of Corruption in the 
American Government Contracts. — Prices of Articles and 
Bent of Shops. 



New York, August 9th ? 1817. 
MY DEAR FRIENDS, 

I embrace the first opportunity of communi- 
cating my safe arrival in this land of liberty, 
which I am enabled to do by the politeness of 
Sir James Yeo, who sails this day. We landed 
here on Wednesday the 6th instant. You are 
aware that the vessel in which I sailed is the 
Washington, Captain Foreman, which left Lon- 
don the 4th of June. I went on board at the 
Isle of Wight on the 14th, and we proceeded 
on our course the following day. The cabin 
was crowded, having nineteen passengers, 

B 



C Z PASSENGERS. — POLITICAL LIBERTY. 

amongst whom were Mr. or (according to 
American etiquette) The Honourable John 
Quincey Adams, (late ambassador at the Court 
of St. James's, but now Secretary of State,) his 
lady and family : the gentlemen were chiefly 
Americans. You will be somewhat surprised 
to learn that Mr. George Washington Adams 
(eldest son of the Secretary) and myself were 
the only warm friends of political liberty ; a 
subject which, of course, often came under dis- 
cussion. All were its advocates in some limited 
or refined sense ; but we stood alone in wishing 
its extension to England, to unfortunate Ireland, 
to France, to the European Continent gene- 
rally, and to the brave South Americans. I 
delivered the letters of introduction, with which 
Alderman Wood and others had favoured me, 
to Mr. Adams \ and wish to acknowledge the 
polite attentions which, in consequence, I re- 
ceived from him. 

My passage-money was forty guineas, exclu- 
sive of wines, &c. A sea-life was to me more 
novel than pleasing. Sickness, the usual lot 
of fresh- water sailors, was my companion. It 
was extreme for eight days, and did not take its 
final leave for fifteen: indeed I had but little 
appetite the whole of the passage. The weather 
has been boisterous for the season ; though I 
believe we were not in imminent danger, except 
upon one occasion, arising from neglect in not 



GALE. " 4>TH JULf ." S 

taking in sail. The wind blew a tremendous 
gale, which the ship, in consequence, was not 
so well prepared to withstand as she might and 
ought to have been. 

The 4th of July is a great American day, 
being the anniversary of their declaration of 
independence. It was kept on board with, I 
presume, its usual sanctity — by good eating 
and drinking. I felt warm in the cause, viewing 
that declaration as the common property of every 
friend of freedom. Several songs were sung. 
Two by the mate were the most remarkable: 
they were the evident production of seventeen 
hundred and seventy-si^ ; their allusions being 
to those occurrences which peculiarly belonged 
to the first stages of the revolution. The toasts 
were also indifferent. I was not gratified with 
even an approach to the old English sentiment 
of " Civil and religious liberty all over the 
world." 

In the steerage there were thirteen passengers. 
These paid twelve pounds each, and had to find 
themselves in every thing but water. They 
organized a debating society, which was held 
in the steerage twice a week, " weather per- 
mitting." ; Young Mr. Adams and myself 
frequently attended their sombre discussions! 
Upon one occasion the question was, ?* Which 
is the best form of government, a democracy 
or a monarchy ?" It was strongly contested 

b 2 



4 DEBATING SOCIETY. ■ — NEW YORK BAY. 

on both sides, and at length determined in 
favour of the former by the casting vote of the 
chairman — who was seated in presidential state 
on a water-cask. 

On the 5th of August, the sound of "Land O!" 
from the topmast, though communicated by the 
gruff voice of a hardy son of Neptune, sounded 
in my ears " most eloquent music." In the 
evening we stood out to sea, being too near 
shore. On the morning of the 6th I was called 
up at four o'clock. We were off the Jersey 
shore, which was crowded with small craft. We 
soon made Sandy Hook, the entrance into the 
bay, and thirty miles from the city of New 
York. The busy scene around me, the conscious- 
ness that I was about to be relieved from the 
worst of prisons, the serenity of the morning, 
and the extreme beauty of New York bay, con- 
veyed impressions which mock description. 
Every object was to me an interesting one : 
first our pilot, his stature, his manners', his 
dress, were all, at this time, objects of my atten- 
tion ; though under other circumstances I should 
have viewed them with entire indifference. He, 
brought us the newspaper of the morning. Many 
of the advertisements had to me the character of 
singularity. One announcing a play, terminated 
with, " Gentlemen are informed, that no smok- 
ing is allowed in the theatre." A newsman from 
the " Evening Post," and a custom-house officer, 

lot 



NEWSPAPER. LANDING. 5 

were' our next visitors. Several sailing-boats 
passed with gentlemen, many of them wearing 
enormously large straw hats, turned up behind. 
At one o'clock we anchored close to the city. 
A boy procured us two hackney coaches, from a 
distance of about a quarter of a mile. I offered 
him an English shilling, having no other small 
coin in my possession. He would not take 
so little ; " For as how I guess it is not of value. 
I have been slick in going to the stand right 
away." This was said with a tone of inde- 
pendence, which, although displeasing to my 
pride, was not so to my judgment. Mr. Adams 
satisfied the young republican by giving him 
half-a-dollar, (2s. 3d.) There was no sense of 
haying received a favour in the boy's countenance 
or manner ; a trait of character which, I have 
since learned, is by. no means confined to the 
youth of America. A simple " I thank you, 
Sir," would not, however, derogate from a 
free man's dignity ; but I must not be too fas- 
tidious. We should not expect everything ; and, 
after all, even cold independence is preferable 
to warm servility. Another question, and one of 
leading importance, suggested itself to me on 
this occurrence \ namely, Is not labour here well 
paid? A great number of people were on the 
wharf looking at us and our vessel. Many of 
them were of the labouring class. They were 
not better clothed than men in a similar con- 

b 3 



V APPEARANCE OF INHABITANTS* 

dition in England ; but they were more erect 
in their posture, less care-worn in their counte- 
nances ; the ? thought of " the morrow" did not 
seem to form a part of their ideas ; and among 
them there were no beggars. Intermixed with 
these were several of the mercantile and richer 
classes. Large straw hats prevailed; trowsers 
were universal. The general costume of these 
persons was inferior to men in the same rank of 
life in England. Their whole appearance was 
loose, slovenly, careless, and not remarkable for 
cleanliness. The wholesale stores which front 
the river, have not the most attractive appear- 
ance. The carts are long and narrow, drawn by 
one horse \ the hackney coaches are open at the 
sides, being suited to this warm climate — lighter 
and much superior to ours : the charge c 25 per 
cent, higher than in London. The streets, 
through which we passed to Mrs. Bradish's 
boarding-house, in State-street, opposite the 
Battery, were narrow and dirty. The Battery 
is a most delightful walk, on the edge of the 
bay. The houses in State-street are of the 
first class. The one in which I am now writing 
is about the size of those in Bridge-street, 
Blackfriars. The rent is 21,00 dollars (5401. 
sterling) per annum ; taxes are about 80 dollars, 
(181. sterling.) The general mode of living for 
those who do not keep house, is at hotels, taverns, 
or private boarding-houses. My present resi- 



BOARDING-HOUSES. 7 

dence is at one of the latter. Here are two 
public apartments, one for a sitting, the other 
a dining room. At present, about forty sit 
down to table. The lady of the house presides ; 
the other ladies, who are boarders, being placed 
on her left. The hours are — breakfast, eight 
o'clock ; dinner, half past three ; tea seven ; 
supper, ten. American breakfasts are celebrated 
for their profusion : presenting eggs, meat of 
various kinds, fish", and fowls. My old habits are 
not yet overcome, for I cannot enjoy any addi- 
tion to plain bread and butter. The hours of 
eating are attended to by all with precision ; 
charge, two dollars per diem, exclusive of wine. 
The entire expense is about 18 dollars per 
week. There are here at present, the cele- 
brated Commodore Rogers, and several other 
naval officers ; among whom are Decatur, War- 
rington, and Bidel, all of whom distinguished 
themselves in the late war : also Mr. Graham, 
the under-secretary of state, and Mr. Bracken- 
bridge, author of a history of the late war. The 
two latter gentlemen are said to be upon the 
point of embarking in the sloop of war Ontario, 
on a mission to South America. That the ob- 
ject of their voyage may be to assist the patriots 
in shaking off the yoke of the infamous Ferdi- 
nand, is my heartfelt desire. 

Last evening, while I was conversing with Com- 
modore Rogers, a naval officer, attended by two 

b 4 



&• COMMISSIONERS TO SOUTH AMERICA. 

black servants, ascended the steps : he proved to 
be Sir James Yeo. Commodore R — s, supposing 
me to be an American, was free in the expression 
of his feelings ; which, in truth, were honourable 
to him, and not derogatory to Sir James, or 
the British navy generally. He referred to the 
disgraceful conduct of Admiral Cockburn at 
Havre de Grace, with a forgiving liberality 
which did him much credit. In his appearance 1 
he has more of the English than the American* 
seaman, conveying an idea not dissimilar to the 
personifications of such characters by Bannister. 
He is an iVmerican by birth, but of Scotch 
parentage. His anecdotes of persons claiming 
relationship or acquaintance with him are nu- 
merous. One man met him in Baltimore, assured 
him that he had gone to school and eaten 
porridge and drunk whisky with him when a 
boy, at Aberdeen ; another, a very old man, 
accosted him, in the Scotch dialect, in Broad- 
way, New-York, and insisted upon it that he 
was his (Commodore R/s) father. Commodore 
Rogers is now the president of the Board of Naval 
Commissioners at Washington ; an establishment 
whose objects and powers are nearly similar to 
those of our Admiralty Board. His present 
business is, in conjunction with Commodore De- 
catur^ to lay the keel of a seventy-four gun ship. 
His account of the climate of Washington is 
favourable. He states that he has there a 



STREET POPULATION. > [) ; 

family of seven children, and 'that for '-"two years 
they have had no illness in the house. 

Immediately upon landing, I treated myself 
with a glass of cider and some fruit : the charge 
was dearer than in London. As yet I cannot, 
of course, communicate any useful particulars. I 
have walked alone through the streets for the 
purpose of forming an independent judgment. 
Every object is new. I hardly dare trust myself 
in forming conclusions : one most cheering fact 
is indisputable, the absence of irremediable dis- 
tress. The street population bears an aspect 
essentially different from that of Londoh, or 
large English towns. One striking feature con* 
sists in the number of blacks, many of whom are 
finely dressed, the females very ludicrously so, 
showing a partiality to white muslin dresses, 
artificial flowers, and pink shoes. I saw but few 
well-dressed white ladies, but am informed that 
the greater part are at present at the springs of 
Balstan and Saratoga. * The dress of the men is 
rather deficient in point of neatness and gentility. 
Their appearance, in common with that of "the 
ladies and children, is sallow, and what we should 

* A place of fashionable summer resort, about 200 miles 
from this city. The route is by way of Albany, which is 160 
miles up the Hudson river, and to which some of the finest 
steam-boats in the world go three times a week. The fare* 
including board, is seven dollars, -and a tax of .que. dollar. 
The time usually occupied from. New York to Albany is, from 
eighteen and a half to twenty-two hours. 



10 CHURCHES. — - HOTELS. 

call unhealthy. Our friend D tells me that 

to have colour in the cheeks is an infallible cri- 
terion by which to be discovered as an English- 
man. In a British town of any importance, you 
cannot walk along a leading street for half an 
hour without meeting with almost every variety 
of size, dress, and appearance among the inha- 
bitants ; whilst, on the contrary, here they seem 
all of one family ; and though not quite a " drab- 
coloured creation," the feelings they excite are 
not many degrees removed from the uninterest- 
ing sensations generated by that expression. 
The young men are tall, thin, and solemn : their 
dress is universally trowsers, and very generally 
loose great coats. Old men, in our English idea 
of that phrase, appear very rare. 

Churches are numerous and handsome : the 
interior of one which I have just visited in 
Broad-way is truly elegant, being fitted up with 
more taste, splendour, and, I presume, expense, 
than many in London. Several hotels are on an 
extensive scale : the City Hotel is asjarge as the 
London tavern ; the dining, and some of the 
private rooms, seem fitted up regardless of ex- 
pense. The price of boarding at this establish- 
ment is, I understand, cheaper than where I 
reside. The shops (or stores, as they are called) 
have nothing in their exterior to recommend 
them ; there is not even an attempt at tasteful 
display. The linen and woollen drapers (dry 
good stores, as they are denominated) leave 

nt 



STORES. — STREETS. 11 

quantities of their goods loose on boxes in the 
street, without any precaution against theft. This 
practice, though a proof of their carelessness, is 
also an evidence as to the political state of society 
worthy of attention. Masses of the population 
cannot be unemployed, or robbery would here 
be inevitable. A great number of excellent pri- 
vate dwellings are built of red painted brick, 
which gives them a peculiarly neat and clean ap- 
pearance. In Broad-way and Wall-street trees 
are planted by the side of the pavement. The 
city-hall is a large and elegant building, in which 
the courts of law are held. In viewing this 
structure, I feel some objections which require 
farther observation either to remove or confirm. 
Most of the streets are dirty : in many of them 
sawyers are preparing wood for sale, and all are 
infested with pigs, — circumstances which indi- 
cate a lax police. 

Upon the whole, a walk through New York 
will disappoint an Englishman: there is, on the 
surface of society, a carelessness, a laziness, an 
unsocial indifference, which freezes the blood and 
disgusts the judgment. An evening stroll along 
Broad-way, when the lamps are alight, will please 
more than one at noon-day. The shops then 
look rather better, though their proprietors, of 
course, remain the same : their cold indifference 
may, by themselves, be mistaken for independ- 
ence, but no person of thought and observation 
will ever concede to them that they have selected 



12 BRITISH GOODS. 

a 'wise mode of exhibiting that dignified feeling. 
I disapprove most decidedly of the obsequious 
servility of many London shopkeepers, but I am 
not prepared to go the length of those in New- 
York, who stand with their hats on, or sit or lie 
alongtheir counters, smoking segars, and spitting 
in every direction, to a degree offensive to any 
man of decent feelings. 

The prevalence of Dutch names tells me I am 
here a stranger ; but this impression is often 
counteracted by viewing the immense quantities 
of British manufactured goods with which the 
shops are crowded, as also the number of English 
works which are advertised, and such placards as 
" Hone's Riot in London/' " Pririce's Russia 
Oil," " Reeves and Woodyer's Colours," and 
" Day and Martin's Blacking." 

My abode here has, as yet, been so short, that 
you cannot expect solid information. Some 
things which I state may appear trifling, but I 
wish to communicate to you my first impressions, 
and to place you, as far as 1 am able, in my own 
situation : in that point of view you will regard 
the following circumstances. 

I have been with Mr. Cook (a fellow- 
passenger, and an agreeable young man, a 
resident of Kaskaski, in the Illinois territory) 
into three shops. The first was a chemist's: 
of him we enquired the state of trade. He 
replied that the only business which was good 
for any thing at this time in New York was 



RENTS. — TRADE. 1 3 

shaving, meaning the buying and selling bank- 
notes. The rent which he paid for his small 
place astonished me. The next was a hatter's, 
at which Mr. C. was not suited. While waiting, 
a beggar came in, and was relieved with a Spanish 
silver piece called a sixpence: it was the sixteenth 
of a dollar. Beggars, I am informed, are very 
uncommon. The third shop was in the same 
business, at which Mr. C. bought a hat: it was 
of American manufacture, very narrow in the 
brim, according to the present fashion ; the 
price was ten dollars (45s.) ; the quality nearly 
as good as those sold in London at from 24s. to 
27s. The proprietor of this concern com- 
plained of the want of business. He stated 
that it had not been known so bad as during 
the last and present years 5 but that labouring 
men who were inclined to work could generally 
obtain employment either in the city or back 
country ; and that among mechanics, masons 
and carpenters were very good trades. I asked 
him the reason of trade being bad. He replied 
that he did not know the reason ; that they 
did not trouble themselves about reasons. To 
my remark, — business is also dull in London, 
he answered, " I guess that is the reason ; for 
we take all our things from them in the old 
country." His rent I thought extravagantly 
high : he stated that it was one-fourth cheaper 
than last year ; and that he expected it would 
be altered next May. This variation in rent 



14 COMMODORE DECATUR. 

flows from a mode of letting houses different to 
that practised in England.* You will not, of 
course, take information so loosely collected as 
the present as authentic. I do not myself, and 
therefore I am sure you will not do so. 

Yesterday, at the dinner- table, my attention 
was strongly fixed by a conversation between 
Commodore Decatur and a gentleman, I pre- 
sume a resident of this city : the following 
is nearly an accurate report. I would remark 
that Commodore Decatur is a member of the 
Navy Board, and,, of course, concerned in the 
contracts issuing from that body. 

Gent. " Well, Commodore, there were some 
good bargains made by some people during the 
war." 

Com. D. " So I guess." 

Gent. " M— * — , the contractor, did not 
lose any thing by turning round: his rations 
paid well." 

Com. D. " A man ought to profit by what he 
sells." 

Gent, " Yes ; but democrats only had the 
chance." 

Com. D. " Contracts are conducted with the 
most perfect fairness. Government deals with 

* Houses are seldom let on long le&ses in the cities of 
America, the usual period being for one year, taking date 
from the 1st of May. Upon this day the removals are so nu- 
merous, that the streets have a very singular appearance, — 
Nov. 1818. Ii n ! 



COMMODORE DECATUR. 15 

that man who can supply the country to the 
most advantage." 

Gent, " If so, how is it that throughout the 
whole war, and up to the present moment, not 
a single federalist in any part of the Union has 
been a contractor ?" 

Com. D. " I guess they have not made ap- 
plication. " 

Gent. " That I know they have, and myself 
for one, and at a lower rate by — per cent, 
than M supplied them." 

At this part of the conversation, a gentleman 
sitting on my left remarked that government 
were perfectly right in pursuing that line of 
policy ; that they ought to favour those who 
supported them : this was partially assented to 
by Commodore Decatur. The gentleman before 
alluded to continued, with some feeling, to com- 
plain of jobs and peculation. These were terms 
which I had imagined unknown in the language 
of the United States : I had hoped that this 
refined order of things would never be imported 
from our great but oppressed country to this 
land, at the emancipation of which from tyranny 
and taxation every free mind throughout the 
world joined in exultation and triumph. 

The inns and boarding-houses are crowded. 
At this time great numbers are here from the 
more southern states. Among other induce- 
ments, they come to avoid the present or appre- 
hended existence of the yellow fever. The 



1 6 APARTMENT. — ANTICIPATIONS. 

room in which I write is in the attic story, 
every other being occupied. In this small 
apartment are two beds, The heat of the 
weather is excessive, and the visits of the mus- 
quitoes not the most pleasing. I have not yet 
been enabled to sleep until three or four o'clock 
in the morning. Our furniture consists of two 
old chairs ; the bedsteads are temporary ; a 
mattrass, cotton sheets and coverlid compose 
our bedding. There is no bell in the room — the 
attendance of servants is perfectly unattainable. 
This may arise from the full occupancy of the 
house, or it may be a general feature in the 
condition of the people: in either case it trou- 
bles me but little. If there be but a good 
government, a healthy and fertile country, and 
an enlightened people, I for one, and I am 
sure you will all join with me, shall be contented 
and happy, as little inconveniences and personal 
privations must be set at nought, when put in 
competition with such important advantages. 
That the state of the country and people may 
realize the hopes I have entertained, is my con- 
stant and sincere prayer. With affectionate 
remembrances to you all, 

I remain very sincerely your's, 

Henry Fearon* 

I shall have a report, for it will be too long 

and too general to be called a letter, ready to 

go by the Amity, Capt. Stanton, which is to sail 

the 1st September, 



FIRST REPORT. 



Situation of New York — Public Buildings. — Exaggerated 
Statements of America. — Particulars of and Capital 
usually employed in f the Business of Carvers and Gilders, 
Timber-merehants, Distillers, Builders, Dyers, Boot and 
Shoe-makers, Tallow-chandlers, Taylors, Printers, Book- 
sellers. — Present Prospect of Success for Emigrants.— 
Lawyers. — Doctors. — American Literature. — High Price 
if American-written Works. — American Editions of 
English Works. — Mechanics 7 Wages. — Schools. — Rents 
enormously high. — Country Houses to be sold. — State- 
Taxes. — Provisions ; their Quality and Price. — Charge 
for Boarding per Week. — Price of Clothing. — Indian 
and French Goods. — Religious Sects and Character of the 
People of New York. — Military Service. — Proposal for 
a Settlement on the Banks of the Hudson. 

New York, August 31st, 1817. 

In a letter, dated the 9th instant, I apprised 
you of my safe arrival at, and my then im- 
pressions of, this place, as far as respects the 
inhabitants, and the appearance of the city : 
those impressions have been, in general, con- 
firmed. Concerning the important object of 
my journey, you will be best capacitated to 
form your judgment from the following details. 
They have been collected with as much indus- 
try and discrimination, as my own capacity, and 



18 NEW YORK. 

the circumstances in which I was placed, have 
enabled me to exercise. 

The city of New York, when approached 
from the sea, presents an object truly beautiful. 
It is built at the extreme point of Manhaltan, 
or York Island, which is thirteen miles long, 
and from one to two miles wide. The city is 
on the south end, closely built from shore- to 
shore, and extends in length about two miles 
and a quarter. The population is said to be 
1^0,000. The East river separates it from Long 
Island, and the Hudson river from the State of 
Jersey. Ships of any burden, and to any extent, 
can come close up to the town, and lie there 
with perfect safety, in a natural harbour, formed 
by the above-named fine rivers, and a noble bay, 
completely protected by the surrounding lands : 
there are at present a great number of ships in 
harbour. New York is without competition the 
first commercial city in America. This will be 
seen by a slight view of Mr. Pitkin's " Statis- 
tical Account of the Commerce of the United 
States j" a work which no person ought to be 
without, who views the subject of, America as 
an important topic. The port of New York 
being open at all seasons gives it a powerful 
advantage ; the more so, as not only its northern 
but its two southern rivals, (Philadelphia and 
Baltimore,) are deprived of this convenience, so 
desirable in an extensive commerce. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 19 

The public buildings of a city of such recent 
birth as that of New York, must appear trifling 
to the native of an European city, accustomed 
to contemplate the collected works of successive 
ages ; but you, my friends, in common with my- 
self, look not at such establishments with the 
eye of the architect or the painter, but as plain 
men, desirous of knowing every thing concern- 
ing a country, around which some of our most 
endeared political opinions are entwined : and 
as we contemplate a possible removal to this new 
world, we feel interested in that land, which 
may not only affect our interest and happiness 
as individuals, but likewise those of many gene- 
rations yet unborn. 

The town-hall of this city is a noble building 
of white marble. The ground around it is 
planted and railed off. The interior appears 
well arranged. In the rooms of the mayor and 
corporation, are portraits o several governors 
of this State, and some distinguished officers. 
The State-rooms, and courts of justice, are on 
the first floor. In one of these, a gentleman 
pointed out to me the celebrated Mr. Emmett, 
well known in the history of Ireland. He is a 
plain man, of the middle size, in a small degree 
inclined to corpulency. His dress was not per- 
haps so respectable as that of a gentleman of his 
high legal estimation in England, but it accorded 
with the ideas and habits of the people of this 
c 2 



20 MR. EMMETT. 

Country. His reputation at the bar is of the firsts 
order. I was grieved to find native Americans 
speak of him with great jealousy. It appears 
that, in their eyes, he has been guilty of two un- 
pardonable crimes — two sins against the Holy 
Ghost : the first is in being, as they term it, a 
foreigner ! the second and greatest of all, in 
being an Irish rebel ! But to proceed with the 
city-hall ; the staircase is circular, lighted by a 
cupola. The situation of this building is ex- 
cellent in point of effect, and highly ornamental 
to the city. It would be much more so, had 
not the basement story, which is of red granite, 
the appearance of brick. 

In the immediate neighbourhood of the hall 
is an extensive building, appropriated to the 
" New York Institution," the " Academy of 
Fine Arts," and the " American Museum." 
There are also a State-prison, hospisal, and nu- 
merous splendid churches. I might fill many 
pages were I to follow in detail the deceptive 
example of some recent writers, whose views may 
perhaps be easily appreciated. One of these I 
have now before me, who names every house in 
which public business is transacted — "a public 
building." " There is," says this writer, " a 
custom-house, post-office, public forum, &c." 
The first is a private house, formerly a book- 
seller's, belonging to Messrs. Eastbourn and 
Kirk ; the second is also a private house, of a 



AMERICAN WRITERS. £1 

very mean description, and indeed quite a dis- 
grace to a commercial city of the magnitude of 
New York ; the third is merely held in the 
winter months, in the ball-room of the city hotel. 
American habits, prosperity, and intelligence* 
are described upon the same model, and with, I 
regret to say, an equal degree of exaggeration. 
Such accounts would appear to answer no other 
ends than those of imposition ; and the nation 
which really stood in need of these arts, would 
not deserve to rise and prosper : but as to the 
veil thus thrown over the real situation of this 
country by these writers, it is equally the in- 
terest of native and emigrant that it should be 
withdrawn. Every American, if he be a man of 
sense, would wish to see pourtrayed the real 
character and condition of his country, in order 
that he might not only perceive what was ex- 
cellent, but also be enabled to discover what 
there was to amend and improve ; while to the 
respectable emigrant and his family, the eon- 
sequences must be lamentable, when he finds 
that he has been incited to a change of country 
by the exaggerated and base misrepresentations 
of romantic or interested individuals. When I 
survey this city, and remember that but two 
centuries since, the spot on which it stands was 
a wilderness, I cannot but be struck with its 
comparative extent and opulence. Like the 
country of which it forms a part, it is a striking 

c 3 



%% BUILBING, 

evidence of the advantages of a cheap and 
popular government 5 but that country is not, as 
somewould represent it, a paradise, any more than 
the city of New York is as yet a rival either in 
population, riches, or extent to that of London. 

In answer to the various enquiries relative to 
their trades and professions, made by our several 
friends, I shall now proceed briefly to give the 
purport of all the information which I have 
hitherto collected either by my own observation 
or through the means of the introductions given 
me ; and in doing this, I shall not confine my- 
self to their form of question and answer, as the 
same fact will, in many instances, reply to several 
of their queries ; and I should wish to give the 
information in as clear and compressed a man- 
ner as lies within my power. 

Building appears brisk in the city. It is 
generally performed by contract. A person 
intending to have a house erected contracts 
with a professed builder ; the builder, with a 
bricklayer; and he, with all others necessary 
to the completion of the design. In some 
cases, a builder is a sort of head workman, for 
the purpose of overseeing the others ; receiving 
for his agency seven-pence per day from the 
wages of each man ; the men being employed and 
paid by him. There are occasional instances in 
which there is no contract, every thing being 
paid for according to measure and value. In 



TIMBER-TRADE. £3 

the city, houses of wood are not now allowed, but 
in the environs they are very general ; and many 
of them handsome in appearance. They are 
commonly of two stories, and painted white, 
with green shutters. The expence of a frame 
(wood) house is materially affected by situation : 
on an average, they will cost to erect about the 
same as a brick house in England. The builder 
is sometimes his own timber-merchant. Indeed, 
all men here know a portion, and enter a little 
into every thing : — the necessary consequence 
of a comparatively new state of society. 

The timber, or, (as the term is here) lumber 
yards are not on that large and compact scale 
with which, in England, our friends C— and 
M — — - — are familiar. Mahogany yards are 
generally separate concerns. Oak boards are 
this day 51. 12s. 6d. per thousand feet. Shingles, 
(an article used instead of tiles or slates,) 
11. 2s. 6d, per thousand feet, to which is to be 
added a duty of 15 per cent. Honduras ma- 
hogany is five-pence halfpenny to seven-pence far- 
thing the superficial foot; and St. Domingo, nine- 
pence three farthings to seventeen-pence half- 
penny. Mahogany is used for cupboards, doors t 
and banisters, and for all kinds of cabinet work. 
Curl maple, a native and most beautiful wood, is 
also much approved. Veneer is in general de- 
mand, and is cut by machinery. Chests of 
drawers are chiefly made of St. Domingo ma- 

c 4 



&4 CABINET-WORK. 

hogany, the inside being faced with boxwood : 
shaded veneer and curl maple are also used for 
this purpose. I would remark, that the cabinet 
work executed in this city is light and elegant, 
superior indeed, I am inclined to believe, to 
English workmanship. I have seen some with 
cut glass, instead of brass ornaments, which had 
a beautiful effect. The retail price of a three 
feet six inch chest of drawers, well finished and 
of good quality, is 31. 16s. 6d. ; of a three feet 
ten, with brass rollers, 51. 8s. A table, three 
feet long, four and a half wide, 31. 7s. 6d. ; ditto 
with turned legs, 41. 5s. 6d. ; three and a half 
long, five and a half wide, (plain,) 31. 12s. ; 
ditto better finished, 41. 10s. ; ladies' work 
tables, (very plain,) 18s. Cabinet-makers' shops 
of which there are several in Greenwich-street, 
contain a variety, but not a large stock. They 
are generally small concerns, apparently owned 
by journeymen, commenced on their own ac- 
count. These shops are perfectly open, and 
there is seldom any person in attendance. In 
the centre, a board is suspended with the notice, 
" Ring the bell." I have conversed with seve- 
ral proprietors : they state their business to have 
been at one time good, but that there is now too 
much competition. 

Chair-making here, and at the town of New- 
ark, ten miles distant, is an extensive business. 
The retail price of wooden chairs is from 4s. 6d. 



CHAIR-MAKING. 9,5 

to 9s.; of curl maple with rush seat, lis.; of 
ditto with cane seat, 13s. 6d. to 11. £s. 6d.; of 
ditto, most handsomely finished, ll. 9s. ; sofas, 
of the several descriptions enumerated above, 
are the price of six chairs. I have seen in par- 
lours of genteel houses, a neat wooden chair, 
which has not appeared objectionable, and of 
which the price could . not have exceeded 9s. 
Cabinet-makers, timber-merchants, and builders 
complain — they all say that their trades have 
been good, but that there is now a great increase 
in the numbers engaged, and that the times are 
so altered with the merchants that all classes 
feel the change very sensibly. These com- 
plaints I believe to be generally well-founded ; 
but I do not conceive the depression to be equal 
to that felt in England. I would also make 
some deduction from their supposed amount of 
grievances. When did you ever know a body of 
men admit, or even feel, that they were doing 
as much trade, as in their own estimation they 
ought? or who did not think that there were 
too many in their particular branches ? Every 
individual desires to be a monopolist, yet no 
wise legislator would ever exclude competition. 
A good cabinet-maker, who should have no 
more than an hundred pounds after paying the 
expences of his voyage, would obtain a comfort- 
able livelihood ; as would also an active spe- 
culating carpenter or mason, under the same 



26 LAWYERS. 

circumstances. A greater amount of capital 
would, of course, be more advantageous* 

A timber-merchant should have a capital of 
not less than a thousand pounds, as he ought to 
pay cash for his stock, with the exception of 
mahogany. The wages of a journeyman car- 
penter is 7s. lOfd. per day; of a mason, 8s. 5d. 
This difference arises, I believe, from the latter 
being an out-door business, which, in the winter 
months, from the extreme severity of the 
weather, is of necessity suspended. Cabinet- 
makers are paid by the piece. When in full 
employ, their earnings may amount to 50s. per 
Week : a safe average is 36s. A man in either 
of the above trades, need not be apprehensive 
but that he should get a living. 

Our friends A — and N— — are unfortunate 
in being " learned gentlemen. 55 Lawyers are 
as common here as paupers are in England. 
Indeed for those friends I see no kind of opening. 
Professional men literally swarm in the United 
States. An anecdote is told of a gentleman 
walking in Broad-way : a friend passing, he 
called " Doctor," and immediately sixteen per- 
sons turned round to answer to the name. This 
is even more characteristic of lawyers. At almost 
every private door, cellar, or boarding-house, a 
tin plate is displayed, bearing the inscription 
" Attorney at Law." Clerks are not in demand 
in this or any other occupation. There are 



SHOPMEN. — CLERICS. Tj 

here no very large concerns, and most men are 
capable of attending to their own business. A 
shopman or clerk, who would receive in London 
his board, and a salary of from 301. to 100L 
sterling per annum, would here experience 
great difficulty in gaining a situation ; and if 
fortunate enough to obtain one, he would not 
receive more than from $-§ to 7 dollars per 
week, exclusive of board and lodging. The 
causes which generate so great a number of 
" legal friends," lie beyond the sources of my 
penetration. Perhaps we may date the fre- 
quency of litigation to the intricacy of the pro- 
fession, which is bottomed on English practice ; 
while the cheapness of college instruction, and 
the general diffusion of moderate wealth among 
mechanics and tradesmen, enable them to 
gratify their vanity by giving their sons a 
learned education. This also opens the door 
to them for an appointment ; and, by the way, 
the Americans are great place-hunters. 

As it respects distillation — There are 
numerous distillers resident in the city and 
environs. During the late war this occupation 
Was profitable, in consequence, I presume, of 
the difficulties attendant upon importation. 
There are none who carry on business upon 
an extensive scale. The capital employed is 
from one to twenty thousand pounds. The 
articles prepared are rum, gin, and whisky : 



%8 DISTILLATION. 

rum from molasses; gin from rye and Indian 
corn: malted grain is not used. Distillation 
is performed in stills made of wood, operated 
upon by steam : there is no particular mode 
required by law. There are two taxes paid ; 
the first on the yearly capacity of the still, 
the second on the spirit, per gallon. The 
latter is a general government-tax, which is 
expected to be taken off the next session of 
congress. There are collectors, but no excise- 
men. The oath or affirmation of the proprietor 
is the mode prescribed by law of ascertain- 
ing the quantity distilled, which is certainly 
most consonant with civil liberty. Both whole- 
sale and retail wine and spirit sellers are grocers : 
their establishments are called grocery stores. 
A great proportion of the retail are small 
chandlers' shops, and are often denominated 
grog-shops. They are usually at the corners 
of streets, and mostly owned by Irishmen. 
Their chief commodity is New England, or 
what is emphatically called " Yankee" rum. 
All spirits are commonly drunk mixed with 
cold water, without sugar. The price per 
glass, at the dirtiest grog-shops, is two-pence, 
where the liquor is of the most inferior descrip- 
tion. At the more respectable, for a superior 
quality three-pence halfpenny. At what are 
called taverns and porter-houses, establishments 
similar to our second-rate public-houses, six-pence 



SPIRIT-SHOPS. 29 

halfpenny. The size of the glass is half a gill. 
It is estimated that there are 1500 spirit-shops 
in this city ; a fact opposed to my first impres- 
sions of American habits, which, on the point 
of sobriety, were favourable, judging from the 
absence of broils and of drunkards in the streets : 
but more attentive observation, aided by the 
information of old residents, enables me to state 
that the quantity of malt-liquor and spirits drunk 
by the inhabitants of New York, much exceeds 
the amount consumed by the same extent 
of English population. The beastly drunkard 
is a character unknown here ; yet but too many 
are throughout the day under the influence 
of liquor, or what is not inappropriately 
termed " half and half !" a state too prevalent 
among the labouring classes and the negroes. 
Many date the source of this to the extremes 
of the climate. Another and a leading cause is, 
that numbers of the lower orders are European 
emigrants. They bring their habits with them. 
They are here better employed and better paid 
than they were in the country which gave them 
birth; and they partake too largely of the 
infirmities of our nature to be provident during 
the sunshine of prosperity. 

Our friend C — — will not be displeased to 
learn that there are here several large carvers 3 
and gilders' shops. Glass-mirrors and picture- 
frames are executed with taste and elegance ; 



30 CARVERS AND GILDERS. 

but still the most superior are imported from 
England. Carved ornaments are general, though 
some composition ornaments are used. Plate- 
glass is imported from France, Holland, and 
England, the latter bearing the highest price. 
Silvering looking-glasses is a separate trade : 
there is but one silverer in New York, and he is 
not constantly employed. Carvers and gilders 
are paid eight-pence three farthings per hour. 
The sale of prints and pictures is usually com- 
bined with this business.- There are here two 
gold-beaters : one of them is a Mr. Jones from 
London. Leaf-gold is frequently imported ; 
but they consider their own equal to foreign, 
and it bears the same price, 40s. 6d. per packet, 
containing 20 books. The duty on imported 
leaf-gold is fifteen per cent. A capital of from 
8001. to 20001. would be requisite for a mode- 
rately respectable concern. A journeyman gilder 
would not succeed ; a carver may do so ; but 
neither trades are (to use an Americanism) of 
the first grade. 

To Mr. F^ I would remark, that boot and 

shoe-makers' shops are numerous, some of them 
extensive. The price of sole-leather is lid. to 
ISfd.; of dressed upper ditto, lis. 3d. to 15s. 9d.; 
to this is to be added a duty of 30 per cent, 
Wellington-boots at the best shops are charged 
21. Os. 6d; ; shoes, 13s. 6d. Spanish is much 
worn for upper leather. They are made neat 
i 3 * 



SHOEMAKERS. DYERS. SI 

and with taste ; the workmanship appears to me 
quite equal to the best London. The American 
leather is very inferior in quality. Native work- 
men appear as good as English. The business 
is at present dull, which, I believe, is usual at 
this season of the year. A capital of from 500 
to 1000 dollars is requisite in a moderate con- 
cern* A master shoe-maker will not be bene- 
fited by coming here ; a journeyman may be so. 
C — 9 whom we knew in London, and who is 
first rate in his line, has been earning °Z\, 5s. per 
week ; but he is upon the point of going to 
Philadelphia, or perhaps to the Western country, 
as he cannot have a continuation of employment 
unless he work at an under price. 

Mr. W. and his Son, who are dyers, would 
find some difficulty in stepping from the practice 
of their large concern in , to an Ame- 
rican dye-house ; which, from the non-existence 
of manufacturers in this country, must be essen- 
tially different from an English one. The 
articles usually done here, are old clothes and 
spoiled goods. A dyer's business in this city 
will best accord with an English scowerer, such 
as Sansom, in Fenchurch-street. The price for 
dyeing black woollen is 3s. per yard, | wide ; 
of brown ditto, 3s. ; red, 2s. 6d. ; yellow, 
w £s* (id. ; scarlet, 20s. a pound. There is no 
silk dyed in the skein, nor are there any 
silk-weavers in the United States. Fast blue 



32 TALLOW-CHANDLERS. 

k not done. Re-dyeing old silk is 6|d. per 
yard. English alum is from 33s. 9d. to 36s. 
per cwt. to which is to be added a duty of 
4s. 6d. ; brazilletto, 140s. to 160s. per ton ; cochi- 
neal, 24s. 9d. per pound, with a duty of 7£ per 
cent. \ logwood, 90s. to 112s. 6d. per ton. The 
business is of necessity limited. It is moderately 
good, and would not require a capital of more 
than from 2001. to 5001. A few journeymen 
are employed. They earn 21. 5s. per week. 

The trade of tallow-chandler is united by 
some with that of soap-boiler. Any other busi- 
ness may be connected with it, as the law raises 
no difficulty on the subject. The operation of 
melting must be removed a specified distance 
from the closely inhabited part of the city. 

The pickle4rade is of no account, as families 
prepare their own. 

The oil and colour-business might be com- 
bined with that of tallow-chandler, though per- 
haps without increased advantage. Oil is sold 
at grocery-stores, and by painters. The rent of 
a house to suit an oil-business* in a fourth- 
rate situation, (a better being unnecessary,) 
would be 1351. to 1501. per annum. A capital 
of from 8001. to 12001. would suffice. For a 
journeyman or shopman it is a bad trade. They 
are paid 4s. 6d. to 5s. 7td. per diem. The chief 
work is done by apprentices. The Irish have 
got the greater part of this business ; and they 

14* 



TAYLORS. 33 

will, if possible, prevent an English journeyman 
from having employment. The wholesale prices 
of tallow are, foreign, 6f d. to 74°^, with a duty 
of fd. ; American, 7fd. : of soap, Castile, 8Jd. 
to 9d. ; turpentine, 5£d., with a duty of lfd. 
In the eastern States there is a superabundance 
of native tallow,, but in the south it is scarce. 
Barilla is not used, American ashes being sub- 
stituted ; which are from 8|d. to 10 Jd. per 
bushel. A tallow-chandler in London who can 
save 501. per annum, would not be benefited in 
his finances by a removal to this country. 

Taylors are numerous : they are denominated, 
(in conformity with the accustomed vanity of 
the country,) " Merchant Taylors." Some 
keep rather large stocks of woollen piece-goods, 
all of which, I would remark, are of British 
manufacture. The price of a superfine coat is 
from 61. 6s. to 81. 2s. They are paid for making 
a common coat, 18s. ; a best ditto, 27s. If a 
journeyman find the trimmings, he receives for 
a best coat 45s. to 51s. For making trowsers, 
9s. Apprentices can be had for the terms of 
three, seven, or ten years : seven is the usual 
period. A journeyman can have the work of 
an apprentice under him. If a man have not 
served his time, it is not of consequence in any 
business ; competency, not legal servitude, being 
the standard for employment. A journeyman 
taylor I would rank but among the second-rate 

D 



34 LITERATURE. 

trades, so much being done by women and 
boys, A man that can cut out will be occa- 
sionally well paid : the women not being clever 
in this department, makes the employment 
of men necessary. There are ready-made 
clothes' shops, as in London, at which articles 
of a cheaper but inferior description are sold. 
Large quantities of clothing are imported from 
England, and many individuals have their 
regular London taylors. Black and coloured 
Canton crape, black stuff, white jean, white 
drill, and Nankin, are worn for trowsers ; jean 
for coats ; gingham for jackets in the house : 
all of which are made by women, at from 95 
to 50 per cent, cheaper than if men were em- 
ployed. A man will earn, when employed, 
from 36s. to 54s. per week. To carry on this 
trade as a master, and with a reasonable prospect 
of success, would require a capital of from 5001. 
to 20001. The profits are large. Moderate 
credit is received ; long credit is given. An 
additional taylor does not seem now wanted in 
New York, yet I should not be apprehensive of 
the success of a man of business who was pos- 
sessed of the means above stated. 

I have recently read a book which speaks 
highly of the literature of this country. From 
what source the writer derives evidence in sup- 
port of his assertions I know not. A well- 
educated American, with whom I have had 






LITERATURE. 35 

some agreeable conversation, candidly admitted 
their very lamentable deficiency in this par- 
ticular; and in nothing, perhaps, is this more 
decidedly shown than in the scarcity of that 
greatest of literary curiosities — a native Ame- 
rican standard work. The causes which pro- 
duce this I shall endeavour to ascertain, when I 
become more conversant with this country and 
people. The fact is indisputable. Booksellers' 
shops here are extensive. Old works are 
scarce. Standard works are not so : by these I 
mean such as Shakespeare, Milton, Blair, and 
Johnson. Theological works (those only which 
are orthodox) are common, and I should suppose 
much in request. Hartley, Priestley, and the 
religious writings of Locke, are scarce ; I may 
say unknown. English novels and poetry form 
the primary articles of a bookseller's business. 
They are quickly reprinted. An instance of 
dispatch in this line occurred a fortnight since 
at Philadelphia. " Manfred" was received, 
printed, and published all in one day. Walter 
Scott, Lady Morgan, Moore, Miss Edgeworth, 
Miss Porter, and Lord Byron, are favourites. 
The late Scotch novels have been very much 
read. The Edinburgh and Quarterly Reviews 
are reprinted by Messrs. Kirk and Mer- 
cien of this city. English Tory "writers are 
neither unknown nor unpopular. Booksellers 
deal in stationary and various fancy articles, 

p 2 



36 BOOKSELLERS. 

Their stocks are large, but, what we should 
call in England, ill assorted. Mr. Eastbourne's 
is the only house which contains old English 
works. His general stock is valuable and ex- 
tensive. I purchased from him gazetteers, and 
other American works, calculated to assist me in 
travelling. The price of all (which was the same 
as at any other house) surprised me : they were 
dearer than English books of a similar kind and 
size, and also very inferior in quality of paper, 
and general execution. Mr. Eastbourne politely 
invited me to his reading room — an establish- 
ment valuable to the city, and honourable to its 
proprietor. The great attraction of this depart- 
ment is a variety of native and English news- 
papers, and of English reviews and magazines. I 
spent a morning hour here with considerable satis- 
faction. American editions of many British writ- 
ings are lower in price, but not cheaper than those 
issuing from the London press ; the size as well 
as quality of paper being reduced. Folio is dimi- 
nished to quarto, quarto to octavo, and octavo 
to duodecimo. The American edition, for in- 
stance, of that beautiful poem " Lalla Rookh," 
which I have sent you, bears no comparison to 
that of Messrs. Longman and Co. Common 
stationary is of American manufacture; the 
superior, of British. Books pay upon import- 
ation 30 per cent. ; printing types, 20 ; paper, 
30 -> wafers, 30 ; playing cards, 30. Native bind- 



PRINTERS. — ANECDOTE. 37 

ing is generally plain and common : many of the 
fine London pocket editions, bound, have been 
recently imported. A capital of from 10001. to 
10,0001. would be required in this business. — 

Query, Would it be judicious for our friend 

to transport his capital to this side of the Atlan- 
tic ? His literary talents would indeed be a 
novelty in a New- York miscellany. 

Printers are paid fSL 5s. per week, but em- 
ployment cannot be depended upon : a great 
portion of the work is done by boys. Stereo- 
typing is practised : Messrs. are now en- 
gaged upon a work larger than any which has 
ever been stereotyped in England. An instance 
occurred in their office of the facility opened to 
learning a trade, in consequence of the non- 
existence of statutes to controul that which 

ought ever to be free. S- , a clever, active 

youth, who had been a shopman in London, 
came here in the Lorenzo : he had letters of 
introduction from his uncle, a highly respectable 

man in Lane, London, to several merchants 

in this city. The door of employment was how- 
ever shut against him. Driven by necessity, he 
resorted to carrying the hod, and thus earned a 
few dollars ; but the excessive heat of the weather 
overcame him, and relinquishing his new occu- 
pation, he obtained a situation at the store 
of Mr. — , in Broad-way — was there eight 
months, transacting the most important part of 

d 3 



38 SCHOOLS. 

their business — received 15s. 9d. per week ? 
exclusive of board and lodging. Tired of this 
unprofitable occupation, he addressed a letter 
to the printers before referred to, requesting 
leave to attend in their office for the purpose of 

learning to be a compositor. Mr. , though 

a stranger, liberally consented, with the addi- 
tional offer, that as soon as S was capaci- 
tated, he should have the full price of his labour. 

S has been there three months, was engaged 

in stereotyping a new edition of Sternhold and 
Hopkins, for the last month has received eight 
dollars per week, is now out of employment and 
upon the point of walking to Philadelphia, (dis- 
tance 96 miles, ) with the intention of working 
on the road. 

The Lancasterian system of education is in 
practice here, but it has not spread so rapidly as 
in England ; perhaps, because among the lower 
orders it was less wanted ; there are 800 in the 
school of this city j the system at present is con- 
fined to free schools. One or two boarding 
seminaries exist here for ladies separately ; but 
in general males and females, of all ages, are 
educated at the same establishment. The effect 
of this highly injudicious practice is not (at least 
judging from the surface of society) what I 
should have anticipated. American females are 
even more distant and reserved in their manners 
than English : the sexes seem ranked as distinct 



SCHOOLS. 59' 

races of beings, between whom social converse 
is rarely to be held. Day-schools are numerous : 
some of them respectable, none large. A teacher, 
that is, an usher, at any of these establishments, 
is a situation not worth the attention of the 
poorest man. No species of correction is 
allowed: children, even at home, are perfectly 
independent ; subordination being foreign to the 
comprehension of the youth, as well as the aged 
of this country. The emigrant proprietors of 
seminaries are Scotch and Irish : an instance has 
not occurred of a respectable English school- 
master establishing himself here. Two English 
ladies have recently commenced a boarding- 
school for females only : they have been mode- 
rately successful. A capital of from one to five 
hundred pounds is essential : for a day-school 
none is required. The dead languages, music, 
surveying, drawing, dancing, and French are 
taught at the superior schools : the latter is rather 
generally understood, and in some measure neces- 
sary, French families being more frequently 
met with here than in England. At some of 
the academies plays are occasionally acted. 
The charges at several seminaries are, for 
arithmetic, reading, and writing, per annum, 
40 dollars ; for geography, philosophy, and the 
French language, 60; for Greek, Latin, and 
the mathematics, 80 dollars : these amounts are 
exclusive of board. 

d 4? 



40 RENTS. 

Rents form an important article for your con- 
sideration : I have therefore been very minute 
in my enquiries on this head. They depend much 
upon situation. In the skirts of the town a very 
small house, one story high, the front rooms of 
a moderate size, the back less, but suited for a 
bed, and with one room in the attic story, is 
from l£l. to 141. per annum. This class of 
houses is similar to the least of those in Somers- 
Town, Commercial-Road, and the new lanes in 
Walworth. A mechanic who has a family can 
have two small rooms Tor 181. a year. About 
half a mile out of the city is a small two-story 

house, in which Mr. has two rooms on the 

first floor, and two closet bed-rooms on the same, 
one room in the attic, and the use of the kitchen, 
for which he pays 241. 10s. per annum : the 
landlord pays the taxes in both the above 
instances. I would remark, that many houses 
have closets between their rooms which serve 
for abed, or sometimes are used as a pantry. It 
is also no uncommon occurrence for temporary 
beds to be laid out in dining-rooms and parlours : 
being, of course, removed sufficiently early in 
the morning to prevent inconvenience. At the 
distance of a mile from the city, a person of 
the name of Richards bought a small brick 
house, containing two kitchens in the basement, 
one front room, tolerable size, and one small 
back room on the ground floor, the same on the 



RENTS. 41 

first floor, and three becUrooms in the attic, foi\ 
3001. Garrets generally have no plastered 
ceiling. A very small house, in a situation not 
convenient for business, containing in all six 
rooms, is worth from 751. to 801. a year ; a simi- 
lar house, in a better situation, 951. to 1051. ; a 
ditto in a good street for business, 1301. to 1401. ; 
a ditto in first-rate retail situation, 1601. to 200L 
per annum. You will remark, that this is the 
smallest class of houses. The house in which I 
am now writing is No. 53, Dey-street : it is 
neither good nor bad, in point of situation or 
gentility, being of a similar class to those in 
Hatton-garden, London : it contains a kitchen 
and servant's bed-room under ground ; a dining- 
room, small parlour, and an intermediate closet 
on the ground floor; a drawing-room and large 
bed-room on the first floor, three bed-rooms on 
the second, three in the attic, and a small back 
yard ; the rent is 2021. 10s. and the taxes 111. 5s. 
Observe, these are the city and state, not United 
States taxes. A similar house to this, in dijirst- 
rate private-house situation, would be 3001. to 
3501. per annum : were it appropriated to busi- 
ness, the rent would be higher. The concern 

at which S lived is in that part of Broad- wa) 

which is first-rate for retail trade : the rent of 

' the shop and cellar only is 2921. 10s. ; the upper 

part of the house lets for 2471. 10s. A house and 

shop, equal in size and situation to those esteemed 



42 PRICES* 

the best in Whitechapel, Fore-street, and the 
Surrey side of Black-friars, would be 3201. to 
3501. per annum : a ditto, ditto to those in Ox- 
ford-street, Bishopsgate- Within, the best parts 
of Holborn and Gracechurch-street, would be 
4001. to 6001. per annum. I am informed that 
Mr. Eastbourne, the very respectable bookseller 
before referred to, has bought his house, for 
which he gave 35,000 dollars : this house and 
situation I should esteem to be parallel with Mr. 
Waithman's, the corner of Bridge-street. Two 
moderate-sized houses in Wall-street, (the Lom- 
bard-street of New York,) were recently taken 
on lease by Mr. Gibson, for the purpose of an 
inn : he engaged to pay 14171. 10s. per annum j 
the concern did not realize his expectations ; he 
put up at public auction a nine years' lease, 
which it is said was knocked down to Mr. St. 
John for 25871. 10s. per annum. Ground lots 
for building, even in the suburbs, are enormously 
dear. 

To state the comparative expenditure for do- 
mestic wants, I find a difficult part of my com- 
munication. There are few families who keep 
an account of this essential portion of family 
economy ; and still fewer who have any know- 
ledge of your necessary expenses. The following 
list of prices may be of some assistance to you : 
beef is from 3f d. to 6d. per pound ; mutton, 3±d. 
to 5f d. ; veal, 5d. to 5f d. $ ham and bacon, 7i^L 



PRICES* 45 

to lO^d. ; dried beef; 8f d. ; fowls, Is. 9td. to 
2s. 9d. a pair ; ducks, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 9d. a pair ; 
geese, 2s. 3d. to 3s. lid. each ; turkeys, 3s. 4£d. 
to 5s. 7£d. each ; pork, 6^d. to 8d. a pound ; 
butter (fresh) 15d. to 20 J d. ; eggs, nine for 6|d. ^ 
cheese, old, 9 Jd., new, 6f d., English, lOd. to l6d. : 
I have seen but little of this article used ; that 
which is of American manufacture is extremely 
bad: potatoes, 3s. 4fd. per bushel; cabbages, 2^d. 
each; turnips, 2s. 2fd. per bushel; peas, 6|d. to 
lOd. per peck ; salt, 3s. 3d. per bushel ; milk, 5£d. 
per quart ; common fish, 2d. to 3td. per pound \ 
salmon, Is. l^d. to 3s. 4^d. per pound ; brown 
soap, 6|d.; white ditto dressed, 8Jd. per pound; 
candles, 8fd. per pound; mould ditto, Is.; flour 
per barrel (weighing 196 pounds) is, of the best 
New York, 46s. 6d. to 49s. lO^d. ; middling 
ditto, 36s. to 40s. 6d. ; rye, 31s. 6d. ; Phila- 
delphia flour, 46s. ljd. to 47s. 3d. ; Indian 
ditto, 38s. 9d. to 41s. 6d. ; hogshead of ditto, 
weighing 800 pounds, 148s. 6d. to 153s. ; wheat, 
7s. lOJd. to 9s. per bushel ; rye, 6s. 4d. ditto ; 
barley, 6s. 4d. ditto ; oats, Is. lOd. ; hops, 19s. to 
21s. O^d. per pound; foreign feathers, 13£d. to 
14d. a pound ; American ditto, 3s. 1 Jd. ; a loaf of 
bread weighing 17 oz., 3td. ; a ditto, 34 oz., 7d.; 
mustard, 3s. to 4s. a pound ; table beer, 5s. 7id. 
for 5 gallons ; common ale, 5jd. per quart ; best 
ditto, 7d., wine measure ; a cask of 9 gallons of 
ditto, 24s. 9d. ; apples, lOd. per peck ; lobsters, 



u 



BOARD. 



Sid. per pound ; onions, (an article much used,) 
3jd. a rope ; cucumbers, 5 for Is. lid. ; common 
brown sugar, 7d, a pound; East India ditto, 10fd.; 
lump ditto, 13id.; best ditto, 16d. ; raw coffee 
by the bag, 10 Jd. a pound ; souchong tea, 4s. 6d. 
to 5s. 7d. a pound ; hyson, 5s. 7d. to 6s. 2d. ; 
gunpowder, 10s. lid. The quality of provisions 
I think is, in general, very good : the beef is 
excellent, mutton rather inferior to ours ; fowls 
are much larger but not better eating than the 
English. Candles are inferior to English ; soap 
perhaps superior, at least less is required than of 
ours, for any given purpose. 

Boarding. — Persons who arenothouse-keepers 
generally live at boarding-houses or hotels. A 
mechanic pays for his board and lodging 13s. 6d. 
to 18s. per week ; the usual price is 15s. 9d. ; for 
which he has three meals a-day, coffee, with fish or 
meat for breakfast ; a hot dinner ; and tea (called 
supper) in the evening; at which last the table is 
filled with cheese, biscuits (called Boston crackers, ) 
molasses, and slices of raw dried beef. Boarding 
at a moderately respectable house is 8 dollars a 
week, for what is termed " a transient man ;" or, 
at the same house, 5 to 6 dollars per week for a 
three or six months' resident. Charges vary from 
8 dollars to 14 dollars a week, according to 
situation, accommodation, and respectability. 
Very few allow four meals a day, as at that kept 
by Mrs. Bradish : indeed I am informed that 



CLOTHING* RELIGION. 45 

Mrs. B/s is the best boarding-house in the 
United Spates. 

Clothing and domestic utensils are chiefly of 
British manufacture: they are from %5 to 100 
per cent, dearer than in England. India goods 
are much cheaper than with you : silk pocket- 
handkerchiefs not more than half the price. 
Canton crapes for ladies' dresses very moderate 
— in England they are prohibited : perhaps 
there are few articles to equal these for gentility, 
combined with economy and elegance. French 
silks, fancy articles, and ladies' gloves are also 
cheap. 

Religion. — Upon this interesting topic I 
would repeat, what indeed you are already 
acquainted with, that legally there is the most 
unlimited liberty. There is no state religion, 
and no government prosecution of individuals 
for conscience-sake. Whether those halcyon 
days, which would, I think, attend a similar 
state of things in England, are in existence 
here, must be left for future observation. There 
are five Dutch Reformed churches ; six Presby- 
terian ; three Associated Reformed ditto ; one 
Associated Presbyterian ; one Reformed ditto ; 
five Methodist; two ditto for blacks; one 
German Reformed ; one Evangelical Lutheran ; 
one Moravian ; four Trinitarian Baptist ; one 
Universalist ; two Catholic •, three Quaker ; eight 
Episcopalian; one Jews' Synagogue, and to 



46 



RELIGIOUS SECTS. 



this I would add a small meeting which is but 
little known, at which the priest is dispensed 
with, every member following what they call 
the apostolic plan of instructing each other, 
and " building one another up in their most holy 
faith." The Presbyterian and Episcopolian, 
or Church of England sects, take the pre- 
cedence in numbers and in respectability. 
Their ministers receive from two to eight thou- 
sand dollars per annum. All churches are well 
filled : they appear the fashionable places for dis- 
play ; and the sermons and talents of the minister 
offer never-ending subjects of interest when social 
converse has been exhausted upon the bad con- 
duct and inferior nature of niggars (negroes) ; 
the price of flour at Liverpool ; the capture of 
the Guerriere ; and the battle' of New Orleans. 
The perfecte quality of all sects seems to have 
deadened party-feeling : controversy is but little 
known. The great proportion of attendants at 
any particular church appear to select it either 
because they are acquainted with the preacher, 
or that it is frequented by fashionable com- 
pany, or their great grandmother went there 
before the Revolution, or because (what will 
generally have a greater weight than all these 
reasons,) their interest mil be promoted by their 
so doing. 

Licences are not necessary, for either the 
preacher or place of meeting. According to 

7t 



RELIGIOUS SECTS, 47 

the constitution of the State of New York, no 
minister of the gospel, or priest of any deno- 
mination, can ever hold any civil or military 
office or place within the State. In 1806, a law 
was passed, authorizing any religious denomin- 
ation to appoint trustees, for the purpose of 
superintending the temporal concerns of their 
respective congregations. These trustees become 
by that act a body corporate, and capable of 
all legal transactions, on behalf of the congre- 
gation : they are allowed, on the part of the 
whole, to hold estates, which may produce 
3000 dollars annually. The Episcopalians differ, I 
believe, in nothing from their established brethren 
in England, except that they do not form a 
part of the State : they have their bishops, &c. 
as in Great Britain. Ministers of all parties are 
generally ordained : they are exempt from mili- 
tary service. A case recently occurred in which 
a tradesman, who occasionally officiated, was de- 
clared exempt, though he had not been ordained. 
I feel little hopes of succeeding in conveying to 
you a faithful portraiture of this people in their 
religious character : they differ essentially from 
the English sectaries, in being more solemnly 
bigotted, more intolerant, and more ignorant 
of the Scriptures. Their freedom from habits 
of thinking seems to emanate from the cold 
indifference of their constitutional character; 



48 MILITARY SERVICE. 

and their attaching no importance to investigation. 
There is also another feature in their religious 
national character, which will be considered by 
different men in opposite points of view. I do 
not discover those distinctive marks which are 
called forth in England by sectarianism. There 
is not the aristocracy of the. establishment, the 
sourness of the presbyterian, or the sanctified 
melancholy of the methodist. A cold uniform 
bigotry seems to pervade all parties ; equally in- 
accessible to argument, opposed to investigation, 
and, I fear, indifferent about truth : as it is, even 
the proud pharisaical quaker appears under a more 
chilling and more freezing atmosphere in this 
new world. 

Military Service. — The laws upon this sub- 
ject ^ary, I believe, in the several States. In 
that of New York, every male inhabitant can be 
called out, from the age of 18 to 45, on actual 
military duty. During a state of peace, there are 
seven musters annually : the fine for non-attend- 
ance is, each time, five dollars. Commanding 
officers have discretionary power to receive substi- 
tutes. An instance of their easiness to be pleased 

was related to me by Mr. , a tradesman of 

this city. He never attends the master, but, to 
avoid the fine, sends some one of his men, who 
answers to his name ; the same man is not invari- 
ably his deputy on parade : in this, Mr. — — - 

6 



MILITARY SERVICE. 49 

suits his own convenience ; sometimes the col- 
lecting clerk, sometimes one of the brewers, at 
others a drayman: and to finish this military 
pantomime, a firelock is often dispensed with, for 
the more convenient warlike weapon— a cudgel. 

Courts-martial have the power of mitigating 
the fine, on the assignment of a satisfactory 
cause of absence, and in cases of poverty. Upon 
legal exemptions I cannot convey certain in- 
formation. During a period of three months in 
the late war, martial law existed, and no substi- 
tutes were received. Aliens were not called 
out. In the adjoining state (Jersey) they were 
compelled to serve. Instances occurred of re- 
sidents, who had not taken up their citizenship, 
being banished to forty miles beyond tide-water. 

You will probably expect some advice from 
me as to your emigration. At present I can 
hardly form an opinion ; that is, such an one as 
would be deserving of respect. The preceding 
information has been collected from numerous 
sources, and with as much care and discrimin- 
ation as I am capable of exercising. It may 
partly enable you to draw your own conclusions, 
which I shall greatly prefer to a dependence 
upon my judgment. Thus much I can safely 
say of this cduntry, that every industrious man 
may obtain a living ^here ; but that it is not that 
political Elysium, which a certain unprincipled 
author and bookseller has so floridly described, 

E 



£0 OFFER OF A SETTLEMENT, 

and which the imaginations of many have fondly 
anticipated. 

In a few months I hope to be enabled to 
speak of America with more decision. That 
the Deity may bless me with a competent and 
discerning mind, and that all your steps may 
be directed aright, is my ardent and sincere 
prayer. 

The Amity will sail in a few hours ; I must 
therefore conclude. In my next report, which 
will be sent by Captain Foreman, of the Wash- 
ington, 1 shall forward some particulars of the 
interior of this state. 

The following letter has just come to hand. 



« Sir, 

" Understanding from Miss 



" of Boston, who came with Mrs* Quincy 
" Adams, that you are looking out for a set- 
" tlement; I beg to offer one, which I think may 
" answer your purpose. It is at Fishkill-land- 
" ing, on the banks of the Hudson : sixteen frame 
u buildings, with a church, are already erected. 
" There is also a good lot of land. The whole 
" I am disposed to sell on moderate terms, and 
" with a liberal credit. For reference, I refer 
" you to the late president, at Quincy. The 
" distance is 60 miles from the city of New 
" York. Sloops and steam-boats pass every 
" day. I shall feel much pleasure in receiving 



REPORT FORWARDED. 51 

*< a visit from you, previous to your return to 
" Europe. 

« J. P. De Wint. 

<( Fishkill-landing, 
«« State of New York." 

* # * The present report will be taken by Mr. Berthel6, of 
the house of Berthele" and Reeves, of Montreal ; a gentle- 
man who is going to pursue his medical studies in London, 
and who has politely consented to be the bearer of this. He 
sails in the Amity, for Liverpool, on the 4th September. 



E £ 



SECOND REPORT. 



Courts of Law in New York. — Sloop of War Ontario, — 
Slavery ; Anecdote of a black, Barber. — Visit to Mr. Cob- 
bett. — Soil and Agriculture of Long Island. — Prices of 
Stock, and of Land. — Man-Hatten, or York Island. — 
Country Houses on Sale ; Prices. — Newark, in Jersey. — 
Fkhkill. — Mr.De Wint's Property. — American Servants, 
• — Newburgh. — No National Monument to Washington. — 
American Emigration to Canada. — Cotton Manufactory. 
— Return to New York. — Academy of Fine Arts. — Me- 
chanical Panorama. — Theatre. — - Shamrock Society. — 
What Classes of Emigrants are likely to succeed, and what 
are not. 

Newburgh, on the Banks of the Hudson. 

In my last report, conveyed by the politeness 
of Mr, Berthele, I gave particulars of various 
trades and professions. Their length prevented 
me from entering into those minor details, 
which perhaps may not be without their utility. 
My residence in this country has yet been but 
short j and whatever may have been my exertions 
and enquiries, I am not yet sufficiently familiar- 
ized with the habits and character of the people, 
to feel confident in my impressions. Minute 
traits and occurrences apparently trifling, fre- 
quently attract my notice ; as I conceive it is 
by means of these, that we are frequently best 



CITY-HALL. 53 

enabled to form a correct estimate, either of an 
individual or an entire community. 

The 9th of August was, I believe, the date on 
which I closed my first communication. 

On the 10th, I attended at the city-hall, to 
witness an expected trial of our captain, on the 
charge of the second steward, for alleged ill 
usage: several passengers and sailors were in 
waiting to give evidence on both sides. I felt 
rejoiced to see even the latter ; though, when 
on board, they had little of my respect : such is 
the attachment created by a long sea voyage. 
This trial was fifth on the list ; the time spent in 
waiting I felt as no demand on my patience : 
my mind was occupied ; the objects with which 
I was surrounded interested, because they were 
novel to me. The court is in size about one- 
fourth larger than the lord-mayor's court in the 
Mansion-house. The presiding judge was a 
young man, about twenty-six ; tall, thin, sallow, 
serious, and uninteresting : his dress was a long 
loose great-coat and trowsers. The counsel 
were of similar ages and appearance. The com- 
mencement of the first trial was delayed from the 
want of jurymen : twenty-four had been sum- 
moned ; seven only were in attendance. The 
judge proposed that the first five should be taken 
from among the bye-standers, who were from fifty 
to sixty in number. This proposition was op- 

e S 



54 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 

posed by the counsel for the plaintiff, who 9 
among other arguments, urged the possibility 
that five so chosen might not all be citizens of 
the United States. This was overruled, and the 
trial proceeded. It was of a petty nature, not 
possessed of features useful to communicate : 
the decision seemed to me just. The technical 
language used, was borrowed from English prac- 
tice ; the general effect different, especially in 
the perfect equality of judge, counsel, jury, tip- 
staff and auditors. Our case was called : it was 
not tried, in consequence of, I am informed, the 
well-paid management of counsel. I am told, on 
good authority, that great corruption exists in 
those minor courts. The judge is said to have 
a good understanding with the constable : he 
receives too, a larger sum in cases of conviction 
than in those of acquittal. It is indisputable that 
the constables are remarkably anxious for jobs j 
aud that the judge strongly participates, in their 
feelings. My impressions of the court were, 
that it presented a character of more sim- 
plicity, (if the term be allowable in any case 
where lawyers aie concerned,) but of less dig- 
nity, than those with which we are familiar. 
The justice awarded in each is perhaps about 
upon an equality: at leaTt I see no fair rea- 
son to give the preference to this side of the 
Atlantic. 



THE SHIP ONTARIO. 55 

When at my boarding-house I am not unoc- 
cupied in observing the characters and conduct 
of fellow-residents. The manners of Americans 
differ widely from those of Englishmen : they 
are more easy but less polite. A desire to please 
does not seem to form a feature of the national 
character. Their easiness of address seems not 
the result of reflection, or the polish of good 
society ; but appears to proceed from the general 
diffusion of moderate wealth, and the national 
civil institutions. Every man feels not merely 
independent in his political, but also in his 
personal condition. The individual acts and 
thinks as an individual ; and society seems to 
have diminished charms for men, who imagine 
that they have sufficient resources within them- 
selves. 

The following day, Major Biddle, of the United 
States 5 army, had the politeness to take me in 
the garrison boat on board the ship of war 
Ontario, which his brother commanded. She is 
waiting to take out commissioners to South 
America. This vessel is remarkably fine of her 
class : she carries twenty thirty-two pounders 
and two twelves. Captain Biddle, distinguished 
for his bravery in the late war, was in a ham- 
mock on deck, being indisposed with a slight 
fever, as were several of his officers and crew : his 
reception of me was most liberal and gentlemanly, 

e 4 



56 SLAVERY. 

I was much pleased with one of the Lieu- 
tenants. Having adverted to their naval victo- 
ries, he very modestly replied, " I make no claim 
% to superiority over the British. Men cannot 
" be braver than they are : but they were too 
" confident of success, and that feeling has 
**, defeated men in many things besides battles. 
" Besides, which, Sir, their long unrivalled sue- 
" cesses caused them to be lax in their dis- 
" cipline, while, on the contrary, we are re- 
" markably strict in ours : our discipline is a 
" model in that particular, and nothing can be 
" done without it at sea." 

The existence of slavery in the United States 
has, I know, long been to you all a subject both 
of regret and astonishment. New York is called 
a " free state :" that it may be so theoretically, 
or when compared with its southern neigh- 
bours, I am not prepared to dispute ; but if, in 
England, we saw in the Times newspaper such 
advertisements as the following, we should 
conclude that freedom from slavery existed only 
in words. The first is from the New York 
Daily Advertiser. I have not made a memo- 
randum of the paper from which I extracted 
the second ; but no American will deny 
their originality ; and, what is worse, I fear 
there are few who would acknowledge their 
iniquity: 



SLAVERY. 5% 

M TO BE SOLD, 

" A Servant woman acquainted with both city and 
*' country business, about 30 years of age, and sold 
" because she wishes to change her place. Enquire 
" at this office, or at 91 Cherry-street." 

« FOR SALE OR HIRE, 

" A likely young Man Servant, sober, honest and 
" well behaved. He would suit very well for a house 
;t servant or gentleman's waiter, being accustomed to 
" both. Enquire at this office." 

The number of blacks in this city is very great i 
they have instituted a " Wilberforce Society^ 
and look upon the Englishman whose name they 
have taken as the great saviour of their race. 
At Mrs. Bradish's boarding-house I saw but one 
white servant, and I should suppose there were 
of her own, and of her boarders', at least sixteen 
blacks. A negro child, about six years of age, 
often waited upon us at tea : the strength and 
dexterity of the little thing frequently excited 
rny attention and sympathy. Female blacks often 
obstructed my passage up and down stairs. They 
lie about, clinging to the boards as though that 
had been the spot on which they had vegetated : 
several belonged to families from the south, and 
were, as a matter of course, held in unconditional 
slavery. The men, whether regular servants of 
the house or not, equally attended upon all at 
table. There was. one waiter on an average to 
four gentlemen - 9 yet such was the want of 



58 TREATMENT OF NEGROES. 

system observed, that few could obtain what 
they desired. Soon after landing I called at 
a hair-dresser's in Broad-way, nearly opposite 
the city-hall : the man in the shop was a negro. 
He had nearly finished with me, when a black 
man, very respectably dressed, came into the 
shop and sat down. The barber enquired if 
he wanted the proprietor or his boss, as he 
termed him, who was also a black : the answer 
was in the negative ; but that he wished to have 
his hair cut. My attendant turned upon his 
heel, and with the greatest contempt, muttered 
in a tone of proud importance, " We do not 
" cut coloured men here, Sir." The poor 
fellow walked out without replying, exhibiting 
in his countenance confusion, humiliation, and 
mortification. I immediately requested, that if 
the refusal was on account of my being present, 
he might be called back. The hair-dresser was 
astonished : " You cannot be in earnest, Sir," 
he said. I assured him that I was so, and that I 
was much concerned in witnessing the refusal 
from no other cause than that his skin was of a 
darker tinge than my own. He stopped the 
motion of his scissars : and after a pause of some 
seconds, in which his eyes were fixed upon my 
face, he said, " Why, I guess as how, Sir, what 
" you say is mighty elegant, and you're an ele- 
" gant man ; but I guess you are not of these 
" parts." — " I am from England," said I, 



ANECDOTE. 59 

" where we have neither so cheap nor so en- 
m lightened a government as yours, but we 
" have no slaves/' — " Ay, I guessed you were 
" not raised here; you salt-water people are 
" mighty grand to coloured people ; you are 
" not so proud, and I guess you have more 
" to be proud of; now I reckon you do not 
" know that my boss would not have a single 
" ugly or clever gentleman come to his store, 
" if he cut coloured men ; now my boss, I 
" guess, ordered me to turn out every coloured 
" man from the store right away, and if I did 
" not, he would send me off slick ; for the slim- 
" mest gentleman in York would not come to 
" his store if coloured men were let in ; but you 
" know ail that Sir, I guess, without my telling 
" you ; you are an elegant gentleman too, Sir." 
I assured him that I was ignorant of the fact 
which he stated ; but which, from the earnest- 
ness of his manner, I concluded must be true. 
" And you come all the way right away from 
" England. Well ! I would not have supposed, 
" I guess, that you come from there from your 
" tongue ; you have no hardness like, I guess, in 
" your speaking ; you talk almost as well as we 
" do, and that is what I never see, I guess, in 
" a gentleman so lately from England. I guess 
" your talk is within a grade as good as ours. 
" You are a mighty elegant gentleman, and if 
" you will tell me where you keep, I will bring 



60 ANECDOTE. 

" some of my coloured friends to visit you* 
" Well, you must be a smart man to come from 
" England, and talk English as well as we do 
" that were raised in this country." At the 
dinner-table I commenced a relation of this 
occurrence to three American gentlemen, one 
of whom was a doctor, the others were in the 
law : they were men of education and of liberal 
opinions. When I arrived at the point of the 
black being turned out, they exclaimed, " Ay 
" right, perfectly right, 1 would never go to a 
" barber's where a coloured man was cut!" 
Observe, these gentlemen were not from the 
south ; they are residents of New York, and I 
believe were born there. I was upon the point 
of expressing my opinion, but withheld it, think- 
ing it wise to look at every thing as it stood, and 
form a deliberate judgment when every feature 
was finally before me. They were amused with 
the barber's conceit about the English language, 
which I understand is by no means a singular 
view of the subject. 

The general though not absolutely universal 
exclusion of blacks from the places of pub- 
lic worship where whites attend, I stated at 
the commencement. In perfect conformity with 
this spirit is the fact, that the most degraded 
white will not walk or eat with a negro ; so that, 
although New York is a free state, it is such 
only on parchment : the black Americans are in 



LONG ISLAND. BROOKLYN. 61 

it practically and politically slaves ; the laws of 8 
the mind being, after all, infinitely more strong 
and more effective than those of the statute 
ook ; and it is these mental legislative enact- 
ments, operating in too many cases besides this 
of the poor negroes, which excite but little 
respect for the American character. 

August 21st. (You see I am not very regular 
in my chronology, wishing rather to throw my 
ideas on the same subject as nearly as 1 can 
together.) On this day I went to Long Island, 
for the purpose of visiting Mr.Cobbett, at Hyde- 
Park Farm, which is 18 miles distant from the 
city. I had no previous personal knowledge of 
Mr. C. nor had I letters of introduction to him ; 
but believing that he could give information 
and advice concerning America, and also feeling 
a strong desire to see a character so celebrated, 
I resolved to forego the usual pre-requisite in 
calling upon a stranger. The conveyance from 
the city to Brooklyn, on Long Island, is by a 
steam ferry-boat : the East lliver, at this point, 
is about one-third wider than the Thames at 
Greenwich : horses and carriages are driven 
into the boat, those who ride seldom dismount- 
ing. In order that I might be in time for the 
stage, I did not go to my lodgings for dinner, 
supposing that as Brooklyn was a place of con- 
siderable population, I should find no difficulty 
in obtaining an article so necessary for a traveller. 



62 TAVERNS. 

I found there several places of public enter- 
tainment, the signs and outward appearance 
of which bespoke a similarity to English taverns. 
The first into which I went had one large 
public room, without a table, or, I believe, a 
chair, with a bar railed off like a prison. The 
inhabitant of this department was not dissimilar 
to many of his countrymen : tall thin, yellow, 
cold, suspicious, and silent. At this place I did 
not venture to make known my wants. I passed 
several others before I presumed to make a 
second attempt : when I did so, it was at a 
" Tavern and Hotel ;" the bar was like the one 
before described, but there was the convenience 
of a private room, the floor of which was covered 
with a neat and economical species of carpet, of 
domestic manufacture. I made known my wants 
to the landlady ; saying, that I was not at all 
particular, and should be glad of any thing she 
had in the house : she walked on to her bar, 
answering, without looking at me, " I guess we 
" have got no feed for strangers ; we do not 
" practise those things at this house, I guess." 
The stage was ready : the driver informed me 
that he would take me to Wiggins' Inn, a dis- 
tance of about four miles from Mr. Cobbett's. 
The vehicle was a kind of light farmer's w T aggon, 
with three seats, carrying two persons each: 
there was no covering, and, of course, a want of 
protection from the sun and dust, both of which, 



MR. RUFUS KING. 63 

on this occasion, were very unpleasant : my ther- 
mometer in the shade was 88°, in the sun 120°. 

Long Island is called the garden of America. 
We passed some pleasing scenery, and several 
remarkably fine fields of Indian corn : this 
article can hardly be excelled in beauty of 
appearance. The residence of the celebrated Mr. 
Rufus King is on the road side : it is a frame 
house, painted white, with green shutters, and 
would class in England as a fourth-rate country 
seat. A gentleman informed me, that, were Mr. 
King travelling, he would not hesitate at riding 
in our waggon. Mr. K. is what is called a 
Federalist ; but this trait of real dignity of cha- 
racter is not the peculiar feature of a party : it 
appertains to all public men in America ; at 
xmce exhibiting an evidence of their good sense, 
and the wise institutions of this government. 

The murder of American prisoners at Dart- 
moor was the subject of a conversation between 
myself and an American medical fellow-pas- 
senger, arising from Mr. King's son having been 
one of the commissioners appointed by the 
United States to investigate that most unfor- 
tunate and disgraceful transaction. The Doctor 
was unwilling to censure, in this instance, the 
conduct of the British. He stated, that there 
was a great deal to be said on both sides ; and 
that, for himself, he had suspended his judg- 
ment. Lord Castlereagh and the English 



64 MR. COBBETT. 

cabinet were, in this gentleman's estimation, 
" great men, who acted with good intentions 
<£ for the welfare of their country." Taxation 
was partially discussed ; he labouring to con- 
vince me that, in proportion to their means, 
they (the Americans) were more heavily taxed 
than the people of England. 

Upon arriving at Mr. Cobbett's gate, my 
feelings, in walking along the path which led to 
the residence of this celebrated man, are diffi- 
cult to describe. The idea of a person self- 
banished, leading an isolated life in a foreign 
land — a path rarely trod, fences in ruins, the 
gate broken, a house mouldering to decay, 
added to much awkwardness of feeling on my 
part, calling upon an entire stranger, produced 
in my mind feelings of though tfuln ess and 
melancholy. I would fain almost have returned 
without entering the wooden mansion, imagining 
that its possessor would exclaim, " What in- 
" truding fellow is here coming to break in upon 
" my pursuits ?" But these difficulties ceased 
almost with their existence. A female servant 
(an Englishwoman) informed me that her master 
was from home, attending at the county court. 
Her language was natural enough for a person in 
her situation : she pressed me to walk in, " being 
" quite certain that I was her countryman ; and 
" she was so delighted to see an Englishman, 
" instead of these nasty guessing Yankies." Fol- 

t 9 



NAPOLEON. 65 

lowing my guide through the kitchen, (the floor 
of which, she asserted, was imbedded with two 
feet of dirt when Mr. Cobbett came there — it 
had been previously in the occupation of Ame- 
ricans,) I was conducted to a front parlour, 
which contained but a single chair and several 
trunks of sea-clothes. 

A French gentleman, whom I found in the 
house, residing with Mr; Cobbett, interested me 
much by his character and conversation. He 
had been in the suite of Napokon, and came 
over with Santini. His account of the Emperor's 
treatment corresponds with the published nar- 
ratives. Of his late master he speaks in the 
most affectionate manner. He jumped about, 
whistled, and sang with a thoughtless gaiety,, 
peculiarly French. At half past eight in the 
evening Mr. Cobbett had not returned. My 
design was to walk back to Wiggins' Inn. This 
idea I abandoned on the recommendation of an 
English servant, who, as it proved, knew little of 
the country. He conducted me to the road side, 
directing me to proceed in a direction opposite 
to that which led to Wiggins', stating, -that 
in about one hundred yards' distance I should 
see a tavern. My walk extended for many 
hundred yards, but no human habitation ap- 
peared. The night fortunately was; fine .— the 
moon's brilliancy— the surrounding scenery — 
the serious turn of my mind, and: the belief that, 



66 WALK AT NIGHT. 

For that night, wandering without repose in s 
strange land was to be my lot, produced feelings 
which would have furnished my poetic friend 

D — with a good subject for further " night 

thoughts." The coolness of the air was also a 
most pleasing treat after the oppressive heat 
which I had experienced during the day. I 
proceeded at a slow and thoughtful pace, willing 
to foster a faint hope that I might yet arrive 
at a tavern. A house appeared, but it was a 
private one, and all were gone to bed. I became 
very uneasy, having in my pocket a large re- 
mittance from Washington. At length, to my 
great joy, I saw a light at a considerable dis- 
tance : it proved to come from a hut by the road 
side. Upon my approach to the door, a dog 
jumped out: when he was partially silenced, 
I enquired for a public house ; none was near. 
This habitation belongs to an old woman, who 
once kept what is here called a tavern. After 
the repetition of my request, she answered, by 
desiring to know, " What do you want with a 
" public-house ? What is your name? Where were 
ic you raised? Were are you going? You are 
" from York (New York) I guess? You want a 
" bed I guess ? now I guess if you be not a hard 
" character, I will let you have elegant lodgings 
"I guess?" I accepted the offer with a com- 
bination of fear and gladness. The old lady 
still sells liquors. Her present stock is con- 



" ELEGANT LODGINGS." 67 

tained in three dirty bottles, carefully preserved 
in a corner cupboard. At the moment of my 
entrance, she was supplying a black pedlar with 
a glass of New England, or what is here deno- 
minated " Yankee" rum. The old lady's witch- 
like appearance, and the cast of character of 
her guest, were strong drawbacks upon my 
desire for repose. This pair seemed living 
portraits of Dirk Hatterick and Meg Merrilies : 
they looked really terrific. I seated myself, and 
was busied in physiognomical research, when 
the man, holding a candle in my face, exclaimed 
" She wants to look at you." When I had 
passed my examination, the old woman with- 
drew to prepare a bed; her guest continued 
drinking, giving me a great many winks and 
nods, and saying " how wealthy the old bag- 
gage was." I was heartily glad to find that this 
sable hero was not to be an occupant of the 
same house with myself. As the old lady con- 
ducted me to an apartment, she apologized 
for the passage to it being through a room, in 
which were an entire family strewed over the 
floor. The wretchedness and poverty of my 
chamber must remain undescribed. Yet I never 
in my life lay down with more sincere gratitude 
to the Deity. 

Before seven o'clock on the following morn« 
ing I regained Mr. Cobbett's. His servant 
conducted me into a room in which he was 

f 2 



$8 MR. C0BBETT. 

writing, with his coat off. The first question 
was, " Are you an American, Sir?" then, 
" What were my objects in the United States ? 
" Was I acquainted with the friends of liberty 
" in London? How long had I left?" &e. 
He was immediately familiar. X was pleasingly 
disappointed with the general tone of his 
manners. His sons, particularly the second, 
are genteel young men. Of their talents I had 
no opportunity to form a judgment. Mr. C. 
thinks meanly of the American people, but 
spoke highly of the economy of their govern- 
ment. He does not advise persons in respect- 
able circumstances to emigrate, even in the 
present state of England. In his opinion, a 
family who can but barely live upon their pro- 
perty, will more consult their happiness by not 
removing to the United States. He almost 
laughs at Mr. Birkbeck's settling in the Western 
country. This being the first time I had seen 
this well-known character, I viewed him with 
no ordinary degree of interest. A print by 
Bartollozzi, executed in 1801, conveys a correct 
outline of his person. His eyes are small, and 
pleasingly good-natured. To the French gentle, 
man he was attentive ; with his sons familiar $ 
to his servants easy ; but to all, in his tone and 
manner resolute and determined. He feels no 
hesitation in praising himself, and evidently be- 
lieves that he is eventually destined to be the 



MR. COBBETT. 69 

Atlas of the British nation. His faculty of 
relating anecdotes is amusing. — Instances when 
we meet. 

My impressions of Mr. Cobbett are, that those 
who know him would like him, if they can be 
content to submit unconditionally to his dicta- 
tion. " Obey me, and 1 will treat you kindly ^ 
" if you do not, I will trample on you," seemed 
visible in every word and feature. He appears 
to feel, in its fullest force, the sentiment, 

" I have no brother, am like no brother,. 
<{ I am myself alone." 

The little Frenchman was whistling, jumping, 
and singing, with all the gaiety of a delighted 
boy upon a gala day. In reply to my ques- 
tions concerning the treatment of Napoleon, 
he was rapid, energetic, and nearly unintelli- 
gible. " Gover-neur, bad man, rascal man, 
" insult empe-reur : empe-reur not like gover- 
" neur, not speak to him, — Balcomb, Oh ! Oh ! 
" Oh ! bad man, bad man — rats, run, run, run." 
Mr. Cobbett complained of the difficulty of 
obtaining labourers at a price by which the agri- 
culturist could realize a profit : so much so, that 
he conceives that a farmer in America cannot 
support himself unless he has sons, who, with 
himself will labour with their own hands. He 
had contracted with a man to do his mowing : 
the terms were, an equal division of the produce, 
Mr. G. took me round his grounds. The con- 

f 3 



?0 LONG ISLAND. 

tractor complained that even half the hay, for 
merely his labour, was a hard bargain. With 
pleasing sensations I departed from Mr. Cob- 
bett's residence ; and most willingly express my 
obligation to him for a reception generous and 
liberal. 

Long Island, a part of the State of New York, 
is chiefly occupied by farmers : their populous 
capital affords a ready market for produce. This 
island in length is 120, and in breadth 12 miles. 
It is divided into counties, two of which retain 
the names of royalty, after the disappearance 
of the reality; the first being called King's, 
the second Queen's County — such inveterate 
tyrants are ancient establishments. The west 
end has a good soil, and is in a state of moderate 
cultivation ; the east has a considerable portion 
of sandy plains. The introduction of gypsum, 
and other improvements in their mode of agri- 
culture, have much increased the annual pro- 
duce. I am informed that within the last 14 
years farms have risen in value 25 per cent. 
Land is worth from 81. 7s. 6d. to 331. 15s. per 
acre. A choice of farms may now be purchased 
in this island at from 151. 15s. to 221. 10s. per 
acre, including necessary buildings. Farmers do 
not live extravagantly : few of them have money 
in reserve. The high price of labour, indifference 
of the soil, and general want of capital, must cause 
a long continuance of this state of things. The 



AGRICULTURE. 71 

agriculturist, who alone can, in this island, enter- 
tain rational hopes of profit, must have sons that 
will work, and be himself among the foremost by 
labouring with his own hands. There being no tax 
upon horses, their labour is preferred, and mules 
and asses are seldom if ever used. The breed 
of horses is good, but not large : one fit for a 
waggon is worth 221. 10s. ; a saddle or drawing 
horse, 351. ; gig horse, 331. 15s. to 561. 5s. ; 
carriage ditto, 901. to 1201. ; fine riding ditto, 901. 
to 1201. Cows are worth — lean, 91. ; fat, 111. 5s. 
to 131. 10s. Pigs are sold, per pound, alive ; 
the present price is 7d. y sheep, 9s. They are 
very small : an entire carcase is not much larger 
than a Leicestershire leg of mutton. A sheep, 
when fattened for market, is J 3s. fid. A good 
farm cart is worth 71. to 91. ; a ditto waggon, 
221. to £31. ; a farmer's man-servant, 241. to 301. 
per year ; a ditto w 7 oman, 121. to 161. Early 
wheat is cut in the middle of July. The wheat 
and rye harvest is completed by the end of 
August - 9 buck- wheat, in October , Indian corn, 
ditto ; oats, middle of August ; grass, from 1st 
to the end of July. The seed for winter, rye 
and wheat, is sown from end of August to end 
of September. The following advertisement, 
extracted from the New York Evening Post, 
may convey more specific ideas of the value of 
farms than the preceding statement. Previous 
to this notice of public sale, I applied, with a 

f 4 



7^ FARMS ON SALE. 

view to our friend L , to know the lowest 

ready money price. Mrs. Ledyard, their owner, 
informed me that the first would be 100 dollars* 
and the second 70 dollars per acre. 

« FOR SALE AT AUCTION, 

" At the T. C. H. on the 1st day of March next, the 
" farm belonging to the estate of the late Dr. Isaac 
66 Ledyard, situated one mile south of the village of 
" Newtown, Long Island. The Williamsburgh turn- 
" pike runs through the farm, on one side of which is 
" a new excellent stone wall, half a mile in length. The 
" farm contains about 150 acres, 15 of which are a fine 
" wood lot, with two apple orchards, one old, the other 
" just beginning to bear well, and a suitable proportion 
« 6 of good salt meadow. The mansion house is large 
" and convenient, four rooms on each floor, with a good 
" kitchen and cellars ; attached is a large barn, crib* 
" hen house, smoke house, well, and a new cistern, &c. 
" The court-yard and garden contain a variety of fruit 
" trees and shrubbery, a large asparagus bed, rasp- 
" berries, and currants. 

" Also — A farm adjoining the above, containing 
" about sixty acres *, attached to which is an equal pro- 
* c portion of salt meadow, and a lot of young wood, 
" situated within less than a mile of the farm, containing 
" ten acres, with a farm-house, barn, well, garden, &c." 

Wishing to see York Island, Mr. Dashwood, a 
fellow-boarder, had the politeness to accompany 
me, in a single horse chaise. We proceeded a 
few miles beyond Haeiiem Bridge, where we 
visited a farmer with whom Mr. D. was ac- 



FARMS ON SALE. 73 

quainted. Apple trees were in profusion on the 
road side. There is no obstacle, and seems, in- 
deed, no objection raised to any person's taking 
fruit. The scenery, during this ride, particu- 
larly on the margin of the East River, is pleasing 
and diversified. Country seats are rather nu- 
merous : one half of them, at least, are to be 
sold or let. 

My excellent friend S could make a 

pleasing selection on York Island. I enquired 
the price of several places : they vary, of course, 
as being affected by causes similar to those which 
serve to lessen or to increase the value of houses 
in England. A residence, two stories high, suf- 
ficiently large for a family of ten or twelve per- 
sons, with a garden, and from two to fifteen 
acres of land, is from eight thousand to twenty 
thousand dollars (18001. to 45001. sterling); a 
variation occasioned by difference in the situa- 
tion, or in the style of building. 

The following description I extract from a 
letter, sent me by the solicitor of a person to 
whom I applied. The house referred to is four 
and a half miles from the city, and in the 
immediate neighbourhood of a good road : — 

" The house and other buildings are substan- 
" tially and neatly built. 

" The cellar to the house is perfectly dry, 
" being partly blown out of the rock. 

" The house is filled in with brick, furrowed 



7^ HOUSE ON SALE. 

« off, lathened and plaistered, so as to be as tight 
" and comfortable as a brick house. 

" The two wells on the place are both blown 
" through a rock ; the one near the house for 
" twenty or thirty feet, and both contain ex- 
" cellent water for family use, particularly the 
" one near the house. 

" Particular pains have been taken with the 
" garden, it being a fine level garden spot, and 
«' filled up on one side, with mould carted into 
" it, to the height of eight or ten feet. 

" There are a great number and variety of 
" fruit trees of the most improved and best 
" kinds. fe 

" The situation is elevated and healthy, and 
4( commands one of the finest prospects on the 
« island. 

" The terms are 10,000 dollars, which can be 

*< made payable, a small part in cash, and the re- 

*' sidue in such payments as may be convenient." 

B (a coach-maker), who sailed in the 

Ann to Boston, and M (a chair and fancy 

japanner), who came in the Criterion, have got 
work at Newark, a town in Jersey, ten miles 
from the city of New York. I have been with 
them several times, and through their means 
am possessed of some information relating to 
mechanics and manufacturers. I made several 
visits to Jersey : it is situated opposite New 
York, on the southern banks of the Hudson. 



NEWARK. 75 

An excellent steam ferry-boat connects these 
States as completely as could be effected by 
a bridge. In the valleys are black oak, ash, 
palms, and poplars ; in some parts there is 
considerable variety of the red and white oak ; 
the hickory grows in those situations which are 
overflowed. The soil is not esteemed prolific. 

Newark contains a population of about eight 
thousand persons, including slaves. It is a 
manufacturing town of some importance : car- 
riages and chairs are made on a very extensive 
scale, chiefly for the southern markets. I saw 
a very beautiful model of a carriage at Camp- 
field's factory, which was ordered for a Spanish 
patriot chief. This town is delightfully situ- 
ated, and contains a great number of excellent 
houses. 

Wishing to see Mr. De Wint's property, at 
Fishkill, (see the postscript of my first report,) 
I took a passage in the steam-boat " Chancellor 
Livingstone j M fare 3j dollars, distance 60 miles, 
time of departure five o'clock in the evening, of 
arrival half past one the following morning. 
This vessel is, perhaps, equalled by none in the 
world: she may be denominated, without the 
charge of exaggeration, a floating palace ; her 
length is 175 feet, and breadth 50, and she is 
propelled by a steam-engine of 80 horse power j 
there are beds for 160, and accommodation for 
40 more by settees. The ladies have a distinct 



?6 STEAM-BOAT. 

cabin : they seem cut oiF from all association or 
conversation with the gentlemen. On deck 
there are numerous conveniences, such as bag- 
gage rooms, smoking rooms, &c. ; on the de- 
scent to the cabins are placed cards of trades- 
men and hotels in the chief cities, and also re- 
ligious tracts, which are chiefly reprints of 
English evangelical effusions — affording an- 
other instance of the slavish dependence of 
America upon British writers. The interior of 
this vessel is extremely splendid. The late pe- 
riod of the day at which we embarked, allowed 
me but a limited opportunity of viewing the 
bold and grand scenery of this majestic river. 
Near the banks is erected a monument to that 
great ornament of the federal party, Hamilton t 
he was in the administration, and some say the 
director of Washington. Those who knew 
him best, state that he was a man far above the 
ordinary standard of public characters: en- 
dowed, indeed, with such talents as but few 
mortals are destined to possess ; he was deprived 
of life by the celebrated Mr. Aaron Burr, thus 
adding another and a splendid victim to the 
barbarous practice of duelling — which, by the 
way, is very general and almost uniformly fatal 
in this country. A slight provocation produces 
a challenge, and if the parties consider them- 
selves of what is called " equal standing," that 
is, of families and in worldly circumstances 



ALEXANDER HAMILTON. 77 

of equal respectability, they rarely decline the 
combat; and the Americans being generally 
good shots, and as remarkable for their cool deli- 
beration as, too frequently, for deadly malignity, 
it is seldom that both parties escape with life. 

In the churchyard of New York there is a 
monument to Alexander Hamilton ; there is 
also one to Captain Lawrence, of the Chesa- 
peake : that the latter may be deserving of this 
distinguished honour I wish not to dispute, but 
surely Washington is, to say the least, entitled 
to as much respect as a rash naval officer ; yet, 
singular to relate, to Washington, the father 
and saviour of his country, there is no national 
monument ! unless, indeed, you will call by that 
name an existence in the hearts and affections 
of the remaining few who are deserving of his 
unexampled exertions, and equally unparalleled 
devotion to the sound interests of his country. 
But if Washington has no national monument iii 
America, he has one in England that never can 
decay but with the annihilation of the British 
character ; he lives in their generous and liberal 
minds as a model to the general and the politi- 
cian of the present and every succeeding age. 

Relative to Hamilton, I extract the following 
from a New York publication, written by one, 
an Englishman by birth, but an American by 
adoption : — " General Hamilton was born in 
" one of the English West- India* islands ; he 



?B ' FOREIGNERS. 

(t came to the American colonies "when a lad ; 
" entered into the revolutionary war with zeal ; 
" became early in ^the war one of the aids of 
" General Washington ; gallantly commanded 
u a regiment at the capture of Cornwallis ; 
" fought through the revolution ; was a member 
" of the convention from which our national 
" constitution originated ; was the first secretary 
" of the treasury, or chancellor of the exche- 
" quer, under the national government; he 
" formed the department, and brought order 
" out of chaos ; he was, perhaps, the ablest 
« writer, and most eloquent man in America. 
" Even Hamilton, one of the most ingenuous 
" and disinterested of mankind, was called and 
" considered and treated as a foreigner. His 
p early distinctions are to be ascribed to the 
" circumstances of the times, to a poverty of 
" talents. The late President Adams says, in 
" his recent publications, that Hamilton being 
" a foreigner, it could not be supposed that 
" he could have American feelings, or be well 
" informed on American affairs ! ! 1" But to 
return to my detail, the boat in which I had 
embarked for Fishkili was well filled with pas- 
sengers. The general occupation was card- 
playing ; one or two had a book in their hands : 
those whose beds were in the births fitted up 
for that purpose were passengers going the en- 
tire route (to- Albany), and who had taken the 



MR. TOMPKINS. 79 

precaution to have their names early entered in 
a book kept by the captain for that purpose, 
Mr. Tompkins, the Vice-president of the United 
States, was among the number going to Albany^ 
the seat of the New York State government : 
he was seated among the other passengers, with- 
out assuming consequence, or receiving any 
particular attention. In person he is of the 
middle size, in complexion dark, with a coun- 
tenance at that time thoughtful to an extreme ; 
he is taller than Mr. Waithman, but in other 
respects the latter gentleman will convey an 
idea of his cast of character : his solemnity may 
not have been habitual, for I am told by those 
who knew him, that he carries jocularity and 
lively good-nature to an extreme. 

Newburg, the town where I stopped, is 60 
miles from New York -, I obtained a bed after 
one or two unsuccessful applications at the ho- 
tels which keep open regularly for steam-boat 
passengers. The following morning I crossed 
the Hudson to Fishkill-landing. The gentleman 
to whose house I was going was a fellow- 
passenger in the ferry-boat, though at that time 
unknown to me. The property for sale con- 
sisted of one hundred acres of land, and fourteen 
small frame (not log) houses ; the price for the 
whole is 25,000 dollars (56251.) : there is on 
this lot a neat frame church, which may be 
purchased for 2500 dollars (5621. 10s.); it is 



80 FISHKILL-LANDIKTG. 

not fitted up, except a few common seats, and 
a pulpit of rather primitive simplicity. A credit 
of four years will be given, charging the interest : 
the present cash price is not lower. 

Mr. De Wint's residence is within half a mile : 
I had the pleasure of dining with him in com- 
pany with several ladies and gentlemen of a very 
superiorclass. The following day Judge Verplank, 
a neighbouring gentleman and farmer, had the 
politeness to take me to his house. My reception 
at both, as well as the style of living, the sub- 
stantial elegance of the furniture, and the mental 
talents of the company, was essentially English. 
I felt, indeed, for the first time, that I was once 
more in your little island. That peculiarly British 
word comfort was well understood in these hos- 
pitable mansions. Another thing, too, was here 
an evident favourite, though, I lament to say, 
scarcely known on this side the Atlantic -»- 
cleanliness : the servants also were in their dress 
neat, and in their manners attentive, forming a 
striking contrast to what I have too often seen 
on other occasions. 

Servants, let me here observe, are called 
" helps :" if you call them servants they 
leave you without notice. Englishmen often 
incur their displeasure by negligence in con- 
tinuing to use this prohibited word. The dif- 
ference, however, would appear merely verbal; 
for indeed I should misrepresent the impressions 
nt 



SERVANTS. 81 

1 have received on the subject, if I stated that 
the Americans really shewed more feeling, or 
were more considerate in their conduct towards 
this class of society than the English : every one 
who knows them will, I think, pronounce the 
direct contrary to he the case, A friend of 
mine, the other day, met with a rebuff at his 
hotel, which taught him the necessity of alter- 
Ing — not his ideas indeed, but his words. Ad- 
dressing the female " help" he said, " Be kind 
* c enough to tell your mistress that I should be 
" glad to see her. 5 ' — " My mistress, Sir ! I tell 
" you I have no mistress, nor master either, 
" I will not tell her, Sir, I guess ; if you want 

" Mrs. M you may go to her yourself, 

" I guess. I have no mistress, Sir. In this 
" country there is no mistresses nor masters; 
" I guess, I am a woman citizen," — The term 
" boss," as I have before observed, is substituted 
for that of master : but these, I would remark^ 
are not the only instances in this country of the 
alteration of names, while things remain the 
same : indeed some very absurd, and even in- 
delicate changes have been made which cannot 
well be communicated on paper. 

Servants are usually engaged by the week : 
enquiry as to character is not practised : blacks 
and whites are seldom kept in the same house ; 
they are chiefly blacks, and, though held in the 
most degraded estimation, appear to do almost 



82 WEATHER. 

what they please. The condition of their kitchens 
is what in England would be considered very 
objectionable : there seem usually several black 
friends of the servants in this apartment. Their 
children I observed frequently sprawling about 
the floor like kittens or puppies. 

Judge Verplank is a large farmer : his sheep, 
I think, he stated at 500, — a large flock for this 
country. His land appeared rather barren. — 
Mr. De Wint informs me that their winters are 
dry and severe: they commence about the 5th 
of December, and end by the middle of March. 
At this time the ice begins to break in the 
Hudson. The thermometer is from 56 to 70, 
from the 1st of April to the middle of May; 
in July and August it is 78 to 90; in March 
and April the weather is subject to sudden 
changes : the cold sometimes intense, with 
much rain and easterly winds. June is a de- 
lightful month, as are also part of September, 
and the whole of October. The summer heats 
and winter colds are usually extreme. The ad- 
vance in the value of land, in this part of the 
State, has made many of the old settlers men of 
large property. The general style of living 
consists of a plentiful supply of the necessaries 
of life, with but few of what in England we 
should call its comforts. I visited the mountain 
adjoining Fishkill-landing — a walk to the sum- 
mit was fatiguing, but the prospect amply re- 



NEWBURGH* , S3 

paid the labour. The town from which I am 
now writing (Newburgh), appeared situated in 
a most delightful and fertile valley, with many 
fine roads connecting it with several parts of 
this immense continent. Newburgh has a popu- 
lation of 3000, many of whom are of Dutch 
descent. There are many new and excellent 
buildings : the genuine log house I have not 
yet seen. Paper currency seems to be the only 
circulating medium : it is of every amount, 
and with a reputation infinitely varied; being 
regulated according to the distance, and the re- 
putation of the bank. 1 see no man in absolute 
want, nor any who appear particularly anxious 
about their future prospects. These are, per- 
haps, the natural signs of an improving country, 
and one whose resources, so far from being 
exhausted, are yet not even called wholly 
into action. A Lieutenant in the United States' 
army, who has just arrived from his station on 
the lakes, and is now sitting opposite to me, 
states that the number of Americans who emi- 
grate from the western part of this State to 
Canada, is very considerable. I asked, with 
surprise, what could be their inducement. His 
reply was, that " the King gives them great 
" encouragement, with land for nothing ; — no 
" taxes, and a present of the implements of 
" husbandry." This is, indeed, " great en- 
" couragement !" and such as we old friends 



84 COTTON MANUFACTORY. 

of His Majesty would be happy to see imitated 
in our native land. 

Upon returning from my mountain excursion, 
I visited Vanskank's cotton manufactory. It is 
advantageously situated on a fine fall of water, 
which empties itself into the Hudson. The 
proprietor conducted me over every part of this 
establishment. It was erected in 1814, has with- 
stood the brunt of British competition, and is 
said to be profitable. There are sixteen hundred 
spindles in operation. Children perform the 
same kind of labour that they do with us : they 
receive 3s. 4±d. per week ; women, lis. 3d. j 
men, Sis. 6d. Every part of the machinery is 
manufactured on the premises. There is also a 
general shop or store on the ground floor, at 
which the work people are supplied with any 
thing they may want, in payment of their wages. 
The chief articles made are ginghams, plain 
chambrays, calicoes, and bed ticks*; the latter 
at a price to exclude English cotton tick. 
Linens are still imported. The fabric of all the 
articles is coarser and stronger than ours: the 
finishing department is very defective ; but this 
will be amply compensated by the wear. This 
concern is modelled upon British establishments. 
Hearing in New York that native manufactories 
were ruined, I felt astonished in witnessing the 
prosperous appearance of Mr. Vanskank's; which 
may be accounted for perhaps by the able way 
in which it is conducted, and the excellence of 



ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS, &C. 85 

the machinery. Their connection is chiefly with 
the southern merchants. The question- as to the 
success of domestic manufactories, is one in 
which I cannot but feel personally a particular 
interest. My present design is to proceed ia> 
the New England States, for further information 
upon this and other subjects. 

Returned to New York, I visited the several 
public exhibitions. The first in order was the 
" Museum," the collection of which* is small - — 
in excellent condition, and displayed with much 
taste. The charge is Is. Md. 

" The Academy of Fine Arts," as it is called, 
is exhibited in the same building. The collection 
is small ; and, upon the whole, very indifferent,, 
with the exception of two or three rustic pieces. 
Among the casts, there are a Venus, an Apollo, 
and a fighting gladiator. — Admission, Is. l§d. 
The printed particulars of this exhibition are 
pompously denominated, " A catalogue of 
" paintings, statues, busts, drawings, models, 
" and engravings., exhibited by the American 
" Academy of Fine Arts, Sept. 1, I8I7. — 
" Auditque vocatus Apollo, — The third Exhi- 
" bition. N. B. — The catalogue of pictures is 
** entirely new. — Printed for, the Academy." 
Then follows a list of directors and officers for 
the year 1817; containing a president, vice- 
president, eleven directors, a treasurer, a secre- 
tary, a librarian, and sixteen academicians I ! 

g 3 



86 THEATRE, &C 

Mr. Van Derlyn, an artist of considerable 
merit, has a small exhibition, in which is a 
well-executed copy of Lefebre's Napoleon. — 
Charge, 2s. 3d. 

There is a mechanical Panorama, exhibiting 
much ingenious mechanism. The wax-work 
exhibition is tolerably good : the dresses are 
splendid. The figure of the Goddess of Liberty 
feeding the American eagle is beautiful and 
interesting. 

The Theatre is about the size of the " Royal 
Circus," and as well fitted up as the second-rate 
London theatres. The prices are, Boxes, 4s. 6d. 
Pit, 3s. 4*d. Gallery, gs. 3d. I went to the 
pit, concluding that, with an allowance for the 
difference of country, it would resemble the 
same department in an English establishment ; 
but found it consisted of none in dress, manners, 
appearance, or habits above the order of our 
Irish bricklayers ; — a strong fact this to prove 
the good payment of labour. Here were men 
that, if in London, could hardly buy a pint of 
porter — and should they ever think of seeing a 
play, must take up their abode among the gods 
in the upper gallery : yet, in America, they can 
pay three-quarters of a dollar — free from care, 
and without feeling, on the following morning, 
tfijat they must compensate, by deprivation or 
extrordinary labour, for their extravagance. 
Many wore their hats, and several stood up 
during the performance : there did not seem to 



SHAMROCK SOCIETY. 87 

be any power which could prevent either prac- 
tice. The boxes were respectably filled : the 
female part of the audience made considerable 
display. Between the acts gentlemen with- 
drew : indeed at this period the house, in every 
part, was deserted, except by the ladies. The 
cause of this practice is to indulge in the fatal 
habit of rum-drinking. A part of the gallery is 
allotted for negroes, they not being admitted 
into any other part of the house. Women never 
go to the pit. The entertainments were, " Laugh 
" when you can," and the " Broken Sword :" 
both performed very respectably. The dresses, 
scenery, and decorations were superior to what 
I had expected to find them. 

Agreeably to your wishes I waited upon the 
gentlemen of the " Shamrock Society," who 
lately published a pamphlet, entitled, " Hints to 
" Emigrants." This association is composed 
chiefly of Irishmen. Among the gentlemen 
present was the distinguished Dr. M'Neven. 
Their place of meeting is at the Globe public 
house, in William-street, where their business 
is conducted with much regularity. The society 
bears a high character for benevolence, and is 
no doubt of material service to their distressed 
countrymen. One of their members had just 
prevented an imposition which is commonly 
practised in this city, and which, in common 
with all my fellow-passengers, I had submitted 
to — the payment of two dollars to the port 

g 4 



SB SHAMROCK SOCIETY. 

doctor. Their room is decorated with flags 
commemorative of American victories. Their 
hatred of the English ministry is implacable 5 
but they do not seem to distinguish between our 
government and people. It would prove, I 
think, impossible to make a native of Ireland, 
who had never been in England, believe that 
you have among you men who feel for their 
wrongs, and sympathise with their sufferings. 
These gentlemen being engaged in a variety of 
town occupations, their acquaintance with Ame- 
rica has hardly extended beyond the city of New 
York ; and, as far as I can form a judgment, 
their capability of giving such information as 
can be relied upon is very limited ; much more 
so, indeed, than th$ir pamphlet might have 
caused us to expect. Mr. Alexander Pike, their 
secretary, is a young lawyer : from him I re- 
ceived much attention, though but little faith 
can be placed in his answers to our queries : not 
that he designs to deceive, but he affects to give 
intelligence concerning rents of houses, profits 
of trade, and domestic expenditure, upon each 
of which I generally found his statements about 
£0 per cent, too low ; — the fact is, he resides in 
boarding houses, and is not informed upon these 
subjects. 

To-morrow (the 8th) I shall departfrom Bos- 
ton. My old captain has offered to be the 
bearer of this. I shall write again as soon as I 
have leisure and materials. Even yet I must 



EMIGRATION. 89 

Withhold my advice as to emigration — — 



The capitalist may manage to obtain 7 per 
cent, with good security. The lawyer and the 
doctor will not succeed. An orthodox minister 
would do so. By the way, the worn-out, ex- 
posed impostor Frey, who said he was converted 
from Judaism to Christianity, has been attracting 
large audiences in New York. The proficient 
in the fine arts will find little encouragement. 
The literary man must starve. The tutors' 
posts are pre-occupied. The shop-keeper may 
do as well, but not better than in London — un- 
less he be a man of superior talent and large 
capital: for such requisites, I think, there is a fine 
opening. The farmer, (Mr. Cobbett says) must 
labour hard, and be but scantily remunerated. 
The clerk and shopman will get but little more 
than their board and lodging. Mechanics, 
whose trades are of theirs? necessity, will do 
well : those not such, or who understand only 
the cotton, linen, woollen, glass, earthenware, 
silk and stocking manufactures, cannot obtain 
employment. The labouring man will do well ; 
particularly if he have a wife and children, who 
are capable of contributing, not merely to the 
consuming, but to the earning also of the com- 
mon stock. 



THIRD REPORT 



Leave New York for Boston. — East River, Hell Gate.— 
American Dislike to Emigrants. — Steam-Boats, Connecticut 
and Fulton. — First Landing on Continent of America. — 
Stages. — Roads. — Taverns. — Military. — Condition of 
People. — Mrs. Fisher's. — Public Roads, and Ideas of their 
endangering Liberty. — No Slaves in New England. — Face 
of the Country of Connecticut, and Rhode Island. — Ar- 
rival at Providence. — Rents. — Prices of Provisions. — 
Of Labour. — Trades. — Cotton Manufactories at Paw- 
tucJcet. — Price of Lands. — Size of Farms. — Entrance 
into Boston. — Character of the Bostonians. — The Athe- 
neum. — Cambridge College. — Religious Sects. — State of 
Society. — People of New England aristocratical. — Cli- 
mate. — Health. — Morals. — State House. — Scenery. — 
Bunkers Hill. — Visit to the late President Adams. — 
Servants superior to those of New York. — European 
Politics in New England. — Leave Boston for Albany. — 
— Pittsfield. — Military. — Hudson. — Face of Country* 
Condition and Character of Americans. — Albany. — 
Population. — Rents. — Prices of Provisions. — Of Labour. 
• — Feelings concerning America. 

Albany, the River Hudson, &c. Sept. 1817. 

On the 8th of September I left New York for 
Boston in the steam-boat " Connecticut/' 
Captain Bunker ; fare to New London, seven 
dollars, including board ; distance, about 140 
miles j time, 21f hours. The various charac- 



EAST RIVER. 91 

ters on board a steam-boat, for ten minutes 
before starting, afforded a fruitful source of ob- 
servation. I supposed we should have been 
much crowded, but found that at the ring of the 
bell, three-fourths went on shore. The banks 
of the East River are pleasing : by Americans 
and some interested European flatterers, they 
are bepraised most extravagantly. On the 
York Island side, there is fine hill and dale 
scenery : among which are scattered several 
country seats, belonging to the city merchants. 
The view of Long Island is not so interesting. 
We passed the navy yard, in which is ? the far- 
famed steam-frigate. Eight miles from New 
York is the difficult passage called Hell Gate. 
At the moment of passing this strait, a bell rang 
for breakfast ; the ticket for the partaking of 
which is a receipt given by the captain for the 
passage-money. My appetite and my curiosity 
had a strong struggle j the latter, however, pre- 
vailed. There are here numerous whirlpools, 
which at a state of the tide lower than when I 
passed, produced a loud roaring noise. The 
whirlpools are said by Mr. Morse to be occa- 
sioned by the narrowness and crookedness of the 
passage, and a bed of rocks, which extend quite 
across it. A skilful pilot may conduct a ship of 
any burden with safety through this strait, at 
high water with the tide, or at low water with 
a fair wind. There is a tradition among the 



92 LIBERALITY. 

Indians, that at some distant period their an- 
cestors could step from rock to rock, and cross 
this arm of the sea on foot. 

The sound now opened upon our view, with 
a light-house, at eighteen miles' distance. A 
Dutch ship sailed by, full of passengers. This 
sight did not meet with the approbation of my 
American friends. One of them, who was a 
farmer, was the first to express his opinion : 
" There (said he) is some more of them 'ere salt- 
" water fellows I guess ; curse them I say ; I 
" guess if I had my will they should never be a 
" salt waterman employed in the States." This 
was warmly assented to by those who stood near 
him. He continued, " What a jag (a load) there 
" is of them 'ere salt-water fish lately come into 
" the States. I guess they are starving in the old 
" countries, and when they come here they soon 
" get hedge (brisk, or in good health and spirits), 
" I wish every vessel that brings such freight 
" might go to the bottom !" Other objects now 
attracted the old man's attention. His train of 
illiberal ideas, which I hope are not national, 
gave way to general observations upon busi- 
ness. He wanted a plasterer at his farm ; here 
his antipathies were lost in a sense of his in- 
terest. " I guess I should like one of them 
" 'ere, if he was a plasterer 5 I would not mind 
" his salt water lingo a cent, so that he could 
" plaster." 



STEAM- VESSELS* Q3 

After a passage of twelve hours, we arrived 
off New Haven, a city in Connecticut, distance 
from New York by water, almost ninety miles. 
This small city is said to have a population 
of about five thousand, and has the reputation 
of ranking among the first towns in respect 
to beauty in the United States. I have since 
understood that Colonel Humphreys resides 
here : he is largely engaged in Merino sheep, 
and the woollen trade. I regret very much 
that I do not take up my residence for a few 
days, feeling, as I do, the subject of manu- 
factures to be very important, not only to my- 
self but to all our friends in Yorkshire. 

The greater part of our passengers went on 
shore. The following day was to be a grand 
one at the college ; it was what is here called 
" commencement day." The college is said 
to be a very excellent one. Those who, like 
myself, were bound for New London, were re- 
moved to the steamboat " Fulton." " The 
Connecticut" has an engine (en-gine, is the 
American pronunciation) of forty horse power : 
two cabins for gentlemen, one for ladies, a very 
extensive kitchen and other conveniences. It 
is fitted up with minute attention to accom- 
modation, and with much elegance : the chief 
fault consists in its having too many erections 
on deck. In a conversation with Captain Bunker 
he expressed his decided opinion that steam- 



94 STAGES. 

vessels, as now constructed, could safely navi- 
gate the ocean ; this passage from New York to 
New Haven was often, he said, very boisterous ; 
and upon one occasion a gale blew so violently 
that he accomplished the route in the ex- 
traordinary short period of six hours. The 
" Fulton," in most respects a similar boat, has, 
however, some variations in her construction. 
The engines of both are on Bolton and Watt's 
principle. She was built for the Emperor 
Alexander, and contracted for to be in Russia 
at a specified time. Captain Hall, the conqueror 
of our " Guerriere," was to have had the com- 
mand : had he successfully navigated her across 
the Atlantic, he would have added another un- 
fading laurel to his own brow, and that of his 
country. We landed in New London before 
day-light : our passage was so rough that I was 
once more approaching towards the sick list. 

At New London I took a place in the coach 
for Providence. American stages are a species 
of vehicle with which I know none in England 
that will compare : they carry twelve passengers 
■ — none outside. The coachman, or " driver," 
(and who is .not unfrequently a military officer,) 
sits inside with the company. In length they are 
nearly double that of English stages. Few go on 
springs. The sides are open — the roof being 
supported by six small posts. The baggage is 
carried behind, and inside. The seats are pieces 

6f 



MRS. fisher's* 9£ 

of plain board. There are leathers which can 
be let down from the top, which are useful as a 
protection against wet, but of little service in 
cold weather. Few of them have doors ; the 
places of entrance and exit being by the horses. 
They form, upon the whole, both in construction 
and management, a very unpleasant mode of 
conveyance. The charges are nearly equal to 
English inside fares. 

We breakfasted at the town of Norwich (a 
city, I believe, it is denominated) ; distance from 
New London fourteen miles, and at the head of 
the navigation of the Thames: three-mast ships 
can come up to the town. It was in this river 
that Commodore Decatur was blockaded during 
the last war : and so approachable are the Con- 
necticut men represented on the side which pro- 
motes their pecuniary interest, that they are said 
to have had the baseness to betray their country 
by giving information to the English admiral 
whenever their shipping attempted putting out 
to sea. The mode of doing this is said to have 
been by throwing up blue lights ; a circum- 
stance which has given rise to the party appel- 
lation of "blue-light men," — a term of reproach 
used by the democrats against the federalists. 

Our dinner was at the well-known Mrs. 
Fisher's, at Scituate. She is certainly a most 
original character ; but 1 must, for the present, 
pass over a description of this oddity of oddities* 



96 RHODE ISLAND. 

The supply for our whole party consisted of beef, 
a ham, two fowls, potatoes, cabbage, and apple 
pie. They grumbled at the scantiness of the sup- 
ply : for myself no epicure ever enjoyed his din- 
ger more, and chiefly because every thing was 
cleanly. At the back of Mrs. Fisher's house there 
is a fine orchard, from which any person may 
take as much fruit as they please, free from 
charge, and without the act being considered a 
liberty. Mrs. R makes from forty to a hundred 
barrels of cider per annum : this year apples are 
so abundant that it scarcely pays for the trouble. 
Farms are here worth from thirty to forty dollars 
per acre. An old man was sitting in the room 5 
I supposed that he was a day labourer ; I ad- 
dressed him with a remark that their roads were ■ 
bad : " Yes," said he, " roads, I guess, are un-. 
" popular in this State : we think, I guess, that 
" they are invasions of our liberties : we were 
" mightily roiled (vexed) when they were first 
" cut, and we always spoiled them in the night !" 
At six o'clock in the evening we entered 
Providence, the capital of Rhode Island. We 
had been thirteen hours travelling fifty miles. 
Of the general appearance of the country I 
wished to force myself to think well ; but I must 
tell the truth, and therefore honestly say, that, as 
it respects my bird's eye view of its soil and cul- 
tivation, I am rather disappointed — but we must 
suspend our judgment. The western States are 

13 



NEGROES. 97 

said to be very superior. Where I now am is 
that part of America which has been colonized 
almost since the days of Columbus ; and, of 
course, is too well occupied to offer present 
encouragement to English emigrants. 

In Connecticut and Rhode Island there are 
numerous dairies. Cheese is sold, for export- 
ation, at from ten to twelve cents a pound. 
Farms contain from., ten to two hundred acres. 
All houses within sight from the road are farm- 
houses. The genuine country seat has not yet 
made its appearance in the four States which I 
have seen. The condition of the people in 
Connecticut and Rhode island is an absence of 
the extreme either of wealth or of poverty. The 
land is very stqny, and the price of produce not 
commensurate to that. of. labour. The absence 
of negroes from these last-mentioned States gives 
me much pleasure : certainly not on account of 
a prejudice against our darker-tinged fellow- 
creatures, or from a belief that they are of an 
inferior order in creation ; but from a hatred of 
oppression, whether exercised in a monarchy or 
a republic, more especially, indeed, in the latter, 
which, professing to be built on the basis of 
freedom, ought to respect the rights and protect 
the liberties of all. In the States of New York 
and Jersey the treatment of Americans of colour, 
by their white countrymen, is illiberal and bar- 
barous. 

-H 



98 PROVIDENCE. 

A few of the aborigines still reside here. 
Their ill-shapen miserable huts exhibit but a 
small remove towards civilization. 

With regard to the agriculture. — - Stones are 
cleared from the surface of the land by large 
holes being dug, into which they are rolled. 
Fields of Indian corn, which struck me with so 
much beauty in Long Island, are here a com- 
paratively melancholy sight. The stalks are not 
half the height, are at a greater distance from 
each other, and look as though they were spring- 
ing from a bed of broken rock. 

On entering Providence, the capital of 
Rhode Island, I was much pleased with its 
beauty. In its appearance, it combined the 
attractions of Southampton and Doncaster. 
There are manufactories in the neighbourhood. 
On that account I took up my abode at Cha- 
potan's Inn until the 11th. 

All places of public social worship are, in the 
State of New York, called churches — not, as 
with our dissenters, chapels. In these States, 
the old English distinction of " church," and 
" meeting house," continues. Here is an ex- 
cellent market-house, & workhouse, four or five 
public schools, an university with a tolerable 
library, a public library, and an hospital. 
Several of the churches are very handsome : 
they, as w T ell as many private houses, are built 
of wood, painted white, with green Venetian 



PAWTUCKET. 99 

shutters, presenting a neat elegance very su- 
perior to our smoky brick buildings. I have 
not seen" a town in Europe or America, which 
bore the appearance of general prosperity equal 
to Providence. Ship and house-builders were 
fully occupied, as indeed were all classes of 
mechanics. The residents are native Ameri- 
cans. Foreign emigrants seem never to think 
of New England. Rent and provisions are much 
lower than at New York. . 

At Pawtucket, four miles from Providence,, 
are 13 cotton manufactories ; six of which are 
on a large scale. They are not the property of 
individuals, but of companies. I visited three 
of these. They had excellent machinery ; not 
more than one half of which was in operation* 
The articles manufactured are the same as de- 
scribed at Eishkill. Children from six to ten years 
of age, of both sexes, are paid 6s. 9d. per week ; 
ditto, 11 to 16, 10s. per week ; women, 12s. ; 
men, $7s. to 31s. 6d. Very few of the latter are 
employed. Several of the manufactories of this 
place are situated on a fine fall of water, 50 feet 
in length, and passing through several chasms 
in a rock which extends across the river. The 
scenic effect of the fall is most materially in - 
jured by the situation of Pawtucket bridge. 

To a labouring man who accompanied me 
through the manufactories, I gave half a dollar. 
I remarked that he addressed men of similar 
L#fO. h 2 



100 ANECDOTE OF INDEPENDENCE. 

appearance to himself by the titles of " major," 
" captain," and " colonel. 5 ' The population of 
this village is very trifling, yet it has " two 
banks 1" The persons employed at all the manu- 
factories combined, are not equal in number to 
those at one of a moderate size in Lancashire. 
A considerable portion of weaving is done by 
women, who have or live in farm-houses. 
They receive 3id. per yard for f wide stout 
dark gingham ; an article which is sold at 13M. 
wholesale, and 15d. retail. These female weavers 
do not in general follow the occupation regularly ; 
it is done during their leisure hours, and at the 
dull times of the year. Some, who have no 
other means of support except service, (which 
is unpopular in America,) lodge with farmers, 
and give half the produce of their labour for 
their board and lodging. 

The Pawtucket manufacturers have shops or 
stores in Providence. On their doors a board 
is affixed, " Weaving given out." During a 
conversation with a proprietor of one of these 
establishments, a woman came in, who from 
her independent (though not impudent) air, I 
supposed must be a customer. His address to 
her, " I'll attend to you directly," confirmed 
my opinion. She replied, " 1 want work, Boss, 
I guess, for Harriet Angel." He immediately 
called to his assistant, " Where is that work for 
u Miss Angel." — What would a starving Man- 



ENGLISH PREJUDICE. 101 

Chester weamress say to this? and how would 
Sir Robert Peel feel if addressed in the true 
language of honest independence ? 

The road from Providence to Boston is much 
better than that from New London to the latter 
place. The appearance of the country also 
improves ; but there is nothing in either as to 
mere appearance which would be inviting to an 
inhabitant of our beautiful and cultivated island. 
From New London to Providence (50 miles), I 
met several waggons, all of which were drawn 
by two oxen and one horse. When* travelling 
in the stage, we passed boys or girls, they bowed 
or curtsied. Some of them brought apples to 
sell, the amount of payment being left to our 
liberality. We did not meet many persons on 
the road, and no pedestrians, except a black man 
and woman. There were no beggars — none 
that seemed distressed — all either were at work, 
or going to or from their labour ; and in all my 
enquiries of farmers, inn-keepers, store-keepers, 
manufacturers, their servants, and others, I un- 
derstand that employment is not difficult of 
obtainment by industrious and honest men. 

I separated from an English fellow-traveller at 
Providence; — heproceeded in the stage. During 
our journey he directed nearly all his discourse 
to me, so much so that it was supposed we 
were old friends. I was by no means proud of 

h 3 



102 ENGLISH PREJUDICE. 

this impression., as my fellow-countryman was 
so full of the importance and superiority of 
England* that any thing American did not, in 
his eyes, seem worthy of notice. A man passed 
us on horseback, without bowing or speaking j 
my -friend exclaimed, 6C There, you see they 
* J have neither manners nor common sense in this 
iC country; if we were in England, you know* 
" and a man passed the stage, he would bow and 
" say, How do you do ?" To this gentleman the 
old story was strictly applicable of two English- 
men and an American travelling in a stage 
from Boston. They indulged their patriotism 
by abusing every thing American. The butter 
was not so good as the English — nor the beef — 
nor the mutton — nor the peaches— nor the laws, 
nor the people — nor the climate-— nor the coun- 
try. Their fellow-traveller was displeased, but 
he remained silent. At length there came on a 
tremendous storm of thunder and lightning. He 
then burst forth, boiling with rage — " There, 

« d — you, I guess that that thunder and 

" lightning is as good as any you have in 
" England/* 

As far as I have proceeded I have not seen 
much good land. It may do for grazing, but 
upon the whole, it is stony and sterile : — and 
what would seem remarkable is, that in these 
old settled States, a considerable portion remains 



FARMING, &C 103 

uncultivated. Travelling in this country con- 
veys none of those delights which are connected 
with an English excursion : here, when your 
eye carries you in imagination to the distant 
eminence, you feel no relief in the fancied con- 
templation of your elevated position's presenting 
a view of fine seats, and extended cultivation. 
On the contrary, you first feel that you could 
hardly arrive at the summit through the density 
of a gloomy forest ; and even if you could, that 
your eye would be fatigued with forests and the 
parched monotony of unproductive nature. 

Arable land in the immediate neighbourhood 
of Boston, is worth from 50 to 100 dollars per 
acre (111. 2s. 6d. to °Z%\. 5s.), farm-house and 
buildings included. The same quantity of land 
at from & to 30 miles from Boston, brings from 20 
to 30 dollars ; — meadow and pasturage, from 
10 to 30 dollars; orchard ditto, 50 to 100 
dollars per acre. Wood land, near towns, is, of 
course, more valuable than any other, its worth 
also increasing yearly. Moderate-sized farms 
usually contain all the different kinds of land, 
in, of course, varied proportions. Plaster of 
Paris is used for manure ; — it does not succeed, 
I believe, in those lands within the influence of 
the sea air. There are some rich farmers in the 
New England States, but generally it is not an 
occupation by which more than a living can be 
obtained. 

H 4 



104 BOSTON. 

Gentlemen-farmers do not make more than 
from two to three per cent, of their capital. 
The more wealthy farmers, from 20 to 40 miles 
from Boston, own large pastures, at the distance 
of from 30 to 60 miles from their residence ; 
and in the mountainous parts of New Hampshire 
and Vermont, cattle and sheep are fattened for 
the Boston market. 

My entrance into Boston was not favoured 
by the weather. From its irregularity, and other 
circumstances, this town in appearance has 
more of an English character than New York. 
The names are English, and the inhabitants are 
not so uniformly sallow. In proceeding along 
the street with my baggage, to Jones's boarding- 
house in Pearl-street, a gentleman accosted me— 
" Where are you from ? When did you arrive ? 
" Any thing new in York ? What is your name ? 
" Any thing special ?" 

Boston has a population of 40,000, yet it is 
not a city : this arises from an apprehension in 
the inhabitants, that the powers vested in cor- 
porations would be injurious to their liberties. 
This town is the headquarters of federalism in 
politics and unitarianism in religion. It con- 
tains many rich men. The Bostonians are also 
the most enlightened and the most hospitable 
that 1 have yet met with : they, in common with 
all New Englanders, have the character of being 
greater sharpers, and more generally dishonour- 



ATHENEUM. 105 

able, than the natives of the other sections of 
the Union : for myself, I should be inclined to 
think otherwise ; and if I must affix such a 
reputation, I should be disposed to remove it 
further south. 

The Atheneum public library, under the ma- 
nagement of Mr. Shaw, is a valuable establish- 
ment. It contains 18,000 volumes, four thousand 
of which are the property of the present secre- 
tary of state. In this establishment I observed 
American editions of the following works : 
Ilees's Cyclopaedia, Edinburgh ditto, Calmet's 
Dictionary and Fragments, Unitarian Version of 
the New Testament, the Writings of Mosheim, 
Jeremy Taylor, Bishop Lowth, M 'Knight, New- 
comb, Paley, Murphy's Tacitus, two or three 
editions of Shakspeare, Edinburgh Review, 
Quarterly ditto, and the Christian Observer. 
English magazines and newspapers are filed re- 
gularly : among the latter were the Examiner, 
Courier, and Morning Post: the former are 
miscellaneous, and collected apparently without 
regard to party. Mr. Shaw obligingly offered 
me access to this library: — he is a singular cha- 
racter : — his whole soul is engrossed by his pur- 
suits ; at the same time he knows every body, 
and every body knows him. I have walked 
with him in the streets: — our progress was slow 
indeed: — every few yards we were accosted, 
6i Ah, Mr. Shaw, I have got something for the 



106 CAMBRIDGE COLLEGE. 

" Atheneum — a Russian copper. 55 — "Well, Mr* 
" Shaw, X have thought of you — such a snake!" 
— " How do you do, Mr. Shaw ? I have got a 
" prize — such a prize I" 

Mr. S. " What, something for the Atheneum, 
" I guess ?" 

" Yes, a stiifPd rat, in fine preservation ; my 
" brother brought it from Pernambuco." 

At Cambridge, four miles from Boston, is 
situated a college, upon a large and liberal 
scale. Mr. Washington Adams, who is a student, 
took me to view it : it contains 250 apartments 
for officers and students. There is a philoso- 
phical apparatus, a hall for public recitations, 
a dining hall, and a valuable library, which 
contains a few, and almost the only standard 
works in the United States. Admission into 
the college requires a previous knowledge of 
mathematics, Latin, and Greek. All students 
have equal rights — -each class has peculiar in- 
structors — they meet twice a day. There are 
quarterly and annual public examinations. Thi& 
college is regarded by the orthodox party as 
heretical in religious subjects— it being observed 
as somewhat remarkable, that most of the theo- 
logical students leave Cambridge disaffected to- 
wards the doctrine of the Trinity. The staunch 
advocates of this system taking the alarm, they 
have established an academy for the education 
of young men, " who must be compelled to 



SOCIETY OF BOSTON* 107 

" learn and to defend the doctrine of their 
"fathers" as the most effectual means to op- 
pose the "Cambridge heresies, " A legislative 
act has not yet been obtained to incorporate 
this establishment as a college. From my brief 
observation of these two prominent parties, I 
should be induced to consider the Trinitarians to 
be much behind their English orthodox brethren 
in theological knowledge, liberality, and sin- 
cerity; and the Unitarians (or more properly, 
the Anti-Trinitarians, for few have gone the 
whole length of Dr. Priestley) to be at the best 
too worldly-minded ; — the open avowal of their 
opinions being a point upon which they appear 
to maintain general reserve. 

The state of society in Boston is better than in 
New York, though the leaven, not of democracy, 
but of aristocracy, seems to be very prevalent : 
many of the richer families live in great style, 
and in houses little inferior to those of the first 
Squares in London or Dublin. Distinctions exist 
to an extent rather ludicrous under a free and 
popular government : there are the first class, 
second class, third class, and the " old families." 
Titles, too, are diffusely distributed. 

Foreigners are not often met with in New 
England ; — neither are Jews, or Quakers. There 
once existed a law in Massachusetts, which 
awarded the punishment of death to the high 



108 BOSTON. 

crime of being a Quaker ! It is hardly necessary 
to observe, that this barbarous statute, enacted 
by a people who themselves had fled from reli- 
gious persecution, is not at present in existence. 
It is not now, therefore, civil disabilities which 
exclude the Society of Friends from this "land 
" of steady habits," but a cause is said to exist 
for their absence, perfectly adequate to the effect 
— the New Englanders are as keen as themselves. 
The same fact applies, perhaps, to the descend- 
ants of Abraham. 

Boston is not a thriving, that is, not an in- 
creasing town : it wants a fertile back country, 
and it is too far removed from the western States 
to be engaged in the supply of that new and vast 
emporium, — except, indeed, with inhabitants, 
a commodity which, I am informed, they send 
in numbers greater than from any other quarter. 

The winds here are violent ; as are also rains, 
but not nearly so frequent as in England. A 
clear sky is, I believe, the general characteristic 
of America: the evenings are certainly most 
delightful. 

The police of Boston must be very far supe- 
rior to that of New York; at least, if effects 
may be taken as the criterion. The state of 
morals I cannot speak upon ; but medical gen- 
tlemen inform me, that their town is not an 
exception to others with regard to purity; 



bunker's hill. 109 

one fact is, however, apparent, that, unlike 
some other towns, gross vice is not obtruded 
upon the public eye. 

On an eminence in the Mall (a fine public 
walk), is built the State House, in which the 
legislature hold their meetings. The view from 
the top of this building is surpassed by nothing 
which I have seen : the bay with its forty 
islands — the shipping — the town — the hill 
and dale scenery for a distance of thirty miles, 
present an assemblage of objects which are beau- 
tifully picturesque. A great increase of interest 
is communicated by the knowledge of the fact, 
that Boston is the birth-place of the immortal 
Franklin, and that here broke forth the first 
dawnings of the ever-memorable revolution. 
The heights of Dorchester and Bunker's Hill 
are immediately under the eye of the spectator. 

On the 20th of September I walked to Bun- 
ker's Hill : it is about two miles from the centre 
of Boston. The young gentleman who accom- 
panied me is a native of the town, and yet did 
not know the road to this spot - — sacred to 
patriotism and to liberty, The hill is one of 
moderate height. The monument placed here 
in commemoration of the victory is of brick and 
wood, without an inscription ; — except what is 
supplied by the boyish tricks of visitors, who 
disfigure it with their names. " J. Fessenden,, 
" 1817," is cut in every direction ; so anxious 



110 MR. ADAMS, THE EX-PRESIDENT. 

are obscure blockheads for posthumous fame. 
At the bottom of this hill are now lying two 
most unexpected and far-famed American monu- 
ments of national glory — the frigates Guerriere 
and Java, named after two taken from the British. 
What would a Franklin, a Patrick Henry, or a 
Washington have felt, could they have foreseen 
these things? In the afternoon of this day, 
young Mr. Adams came from Quincy to conduct 
me to his grandfather's (the late President) at 
that place. We sailed out of the harbour by 
way of Hingham : this route increases the dis- 
tance 13 miles. The inner and outer harbours 
are both handsome : they are more extended, 
but have not that compact and varied beauty 
which so peculiarly belongs to those of New 
York. We passed Forts Warren and Independ- 
ence, near which the inhabitants, in 1814, were 
stationed in shoals of boats, viewing the contest 
between the Chesapeake and Shannon. So con- 
fident were they of the success of their country- 
men, that dinners were absolutely prepared in 
Boston for both the victors and the vanquished : 
— but in this they were sorely disappointed by 
the event. 

The ex-president is a handsome old gentleman 
of eighty-four ; — his lady is seventy-six : — she 
has the reputation of superior talents, and great 
literary acquirements. I was not perfectly a 
stranger here, as a few days previous to this I 

I2t 



GENERAL ARNOLD. Ill 

had received the honour of an hospitable recep- 
tion at their mansion. Upon the present occasion 
the minister (the day being Sunday) was of the 
dinner party. As the table of a " late king" 
may be atnusing, take the following particulars : 
— first course, a pudding made of Indian corn, 
molasses, and butter ; — second, veal, bacon, 
neck of mutton, potatoes, cabbages, carrots, and 
Indian beans ; Madeira wine, of which each 
drank two glasses. We sat down to dinner at 
one o'clock : at two, nearly all went a second 
time to church. For tea, we had pound-cake, 
wheat bread and butter, and bread made of 
Indian corn and rye (similar to our brown home- 
made). Tea was brought from the kitchen, and 
handed round by a neat, white servant-girl. The 
topics of conversation were various — England, 
America, religion, politics, literature, science, 
Dr. Priestley, Miss Edgeworth, Mrs. Siddons, 
Mr. Kean, France, Shakespeare, Moore, Lord 
Byron, Cobbett, American revolution, the traitor 
General Arnold. Concerning the popularity, 
among the mass of the people, of this latter 
personage, Mr. Adams related a characteristic 
occurrence. Washington, Arnold, and himself 
were viewing a spot of ground for the purpose 
of erecting a fortification. A man, with great 
anxiety depicted upon his countenance, enquired 
of Mr. A., " Which is General Arnold ? the 
" brave Arnold? the victorious Arnold?" His 



112 EDUCATION. 

curiosity being gratified, he exclaimed with an 
oath, " I guess, if I should not glory even in 
" going to hell, provided General Arnold led 
" me on." 

The establishment of this political patriarch 
consists of a house two stories high, containing, 
I believe, eight rooms ; of two men and three 
maid servants ; three horses, and a plain car- 
riage. How great is the contrast between this 
individual — a man of knowledge and inform- 
ation — without pomp, parade, or vitious and 
expensive establishments, as compared with the 
costly trappings, the depraved characters, and 

the profligate expenditure of House, and 

! What a lesson in this does 

America teach ! There are now in the United 
States no less than three Cincinnati ! 

The charge at my boarding-house for eight 
days, being part of the time I spent at Boston, 
was 31. Is. 8d. I should remark, that neither 
beer nor cider was served at dinner, — brandy 
and rum were so ; and the charge, in this 
instance, was upon the presumption that I 
availed myself of them accordingly. 

Education is rightly valued in this State as one 
of the most important features of legislation.. 
There . are public schools, and amongst them 
some at which the learned languages are 
taught. The expences of instruction at private 
academies professing to give a classical education 



EDUCATION. RELIGION. 113 

are about 100 dollars per annum -, 50 at a best 
English school ; 32 for a middling ditto ; board 
from two to three dollars per week extra ; female 
education about \%i per cent, cheaper. The 
Lancasterian system is not in operation. Masters 
of free classical schools are exempt from military 
duty and taxes : the same exemptions are en- 
joyed by ministers of every denomination. Clerical 
gentlemen have here an astonishing hold upon 
the minds of men : the degree of reverential 
awe for the sanctity of their office, and the 
attention paid to the external forms of religion, 
approach almost to idolatry ; — these feelings 
are, perhaps, never encouraged without be- 
coming the substitute of real religion, and 
expelling the active and mental principles of 
Christianity. A man who values his good 
name in Boston, hardly dare be seen out of 
church at the appointed hours ; — this would be 
viewed as a heinous crime by men who would 
consider the same individual's cheating his 
creditors as of small import. They seem, in 
these respects, not unlike the peculiarly religious 
among the Jews of old, who showed their sanc- 
tity by a solemn countenance and a broad gar- 
ment, who would not eat with unwashen hands, 
and who regarded it as profane to pluck ears of 
corn on a Sabbath-day ; — but the founder of 
Christianity, in those days dr,ew aside the veil 
of hypocrisy 5 declaring, that it was fornication, 



114< RELIGIOUS SECTS, 

false witness, and evil thoughts which defiled a 
man ~ and that neglecting these outward 
observances did not defile a man. His use of the 
language of Isaiah would, I fear, be but too 
applicable to the religious bodies of this place : 
" They draw nigh unto me with their mouths, 
" and honour me with their lips, but their 
" hearts are far from me." 

The number of churches is as follows: viz, 
twelve Congregationalists (nine of which are 
said to be Anti-Trinitarian); two Episcopalian; 
three Baptist ; one ditto for blacks ; one Quaker 5 
one Universalist ; one Roman Catholic ; two 
Methodist ; one travelling preacher ditto. There 
being here no peculiar state religion, men are 
allowed the liberty of choosing to which of the 
sects existing here they shall belong. To the 
support of one of these, however, they are com- 
pelled to contribute : and should they neither 
attend to the worship, nor believe in the doc- 
trines of any of them, the payment must equally 
be made « — and it then goes to the funds of the 
Congregation alist body. This enactment would 
appear rather at war with enlightened legislation, 
and scarcely reconcileable with that extreme 
jealousy of their liberties, which would appear to 
have dictated an opposition to their town being 
incorporated as a city. — Americans, and espe- 
cially New Englanders, ought to have known 
that religion, in all its details, is an affair between 



BOSTON POLITICS. 115 

God and the individual only, and that any 
attempt at human interference, is a violation of 
the rights of conscience, and ranks foremost 
among the basest of tyrannies. 

Politics. — You may expect some report as to 
the political principles of the inhabitants of this 
place ; — the following document will speak for 
itself, and show, more fully than I can pourtray 
them, what are the prevailing views and opinions 
on the subject of European politics. It consists 
of the 

" Appendix" to " A discourse delivered in 

" Boston, at the solemn festival in commemora- 

" Hon of the goodness of God, in delivering the 

" Christian world from military despotism, hy 

" William Henry Channing, minister of the 

" church in Federal-street, Boston" 

" After receiving intelligence of the late 

" astonishing revolutions in Europe, ascertaining 

" beyond all doubt the entire subversion of that 

" atrocious military despotism, which had so 

" long desolated the Christian and civilized 

" world, a number of the citizens of this 

" metropolis and the commonwealth at large, 

" assembled on the 8th inst, at the house of 

" His Honour William Phillips, to consult upon 

" the propriety of noticing these events in a 

" manner suited to their character and import- 

" ance, and to the sentiments which they were 

i 2 



116 DISCOURSE ON BONAPARTE. 

" calculated to inspire. Deeply impressed with 
" the magnitude and the beneficial and lasting 
" influence of this revolution, upon the best and 
" dearest interests of society, they had no hesi- 
" tation in recommending to their fellow-citizens 
u the observance of a solemn religious festival 
" in commemoration of the goodness of God, 
'* in humbling unprincipled ambition, in crush- 
" ing wicked and unjust power, in delivering 
" the world from cruel and disgraceful bondage, 
" in restoring to mankind the enjoyment of their 
" just rights under the protection of legitimate 
" government, and in giving to nations the cheer* 
" ing prospect of permanent tranquillity. For 
" that purpose a large and respectable committee 
" was chosen to make the necessary arrange- 
" ments. 

" Concluding prayer and benediction — Rev. 
" Dr. Lathrop. 

" The musical performances, vocal and in- 
" strumental, were executed by a very full choir 
" and band, in a style of enthusiasm, taste and 
" excellence, seldom equalled in this metropolis. 
ff The celebration was attended by the governor, 
'? council, and both branches of the legislature. 

" After the religious services of the day were 
" closed, the Honourable Mr. Gore, chairman 
" of the committee of arrangements, introduced 



RESOLUTIONS. 117 

" the following resolutions, by remarking on the 
" happy state of Europe prior to the French 
" revolution, the depraved and deplorable con- 
" dition to which that event reduced the civilized 
" world, the just apprehensions of wretchedness 
" and barbarism from the continued despotism 
" of Bonaparte, and the consequent joy that 
" must arise from his destruction and the 
" establishment of order and public freedom in 
" Europe. 

" RESOLUTIONS. 

" A large number of citizens of the State of 
" Massachusetts convened at Boston for the pur- 
" pose of expressing, in a solemn manner, their 
" thanks to Almighty God, for his late gracious 
" and wonderful interposition, in delivering 
" Europe from that most fearful despotism, 
" under which a great portion of the nations 
" were actually suffering, and which the rest 
" had just reason to apprehend : and for the 
" further purpose of manifesting their sympathy 
" and participation in the general joy of one 
" hundred millions of the Christian world, and 
" their delight at the prospect of a speedy and 
" durable tranquillity to suffering and distracted 
" nations, the following Resolutions, having 
" been duly matured, were introduced. 

." Resolved, That the citizens of Massachusetts 
1 3 



118 - HOUSE OF BOUHBON. 

" here assembled, contemplate with unfeigned 
"joy the emancipation of the French people 
" from the usurped power of a ferocious military 
" adventurer ; and they rejoice in the prospect 
" that thirty-five millions of their fellow men, 
" have a reasonable expectation of being blest 
" with temperate liberty, adapted to their state 
" of society and habits, and a constitution and 
" administration of government, apparently con- 
" formed to their wishes. They congratulate 
" the venerable head of the house of Bourbon 
" on his restoration from exile, to the throne 
" of his ancestors, to which he is called by the 
" entreaties of his people, and from which he 
" has been excluded by a series of crimes, at 
" which humanity shudders. They remember 
" the language of their revolutionary sages and 
" patriots, glowing with affection and respect 
" toward the late unhappy and injured possessor 
" of the throne of the Bourbons ; nor can they 
" forget that the good understanding between 
" this country and France was never interrupted 
" so long as that family were in power, but that 
"injuries and insults, such as no nation ever 
" before submitted to, have been heaped upon 
" it by all their successors, from the transient 
" despot of a day, to the more permanent tyrant. 
" clothed with imperial authority. It is not 
" more from a conviction that the interest of 
" the United States will be promoted by the 



DUTCH INDEPENDENCE. 110 

" late auspicious events, than from their regard 
" to the happiness of other nations, that they 
" congratulate the Sovereign and People of 
" France, on the voluntary renewal of their 
" ancient ties. 

" Resolved 9 That the people of Massachusetts 
" recollect the generous sympathy of the Dutch 
" towards the American people during the dark- 
" est period of their revolutionary struggle; and 
" rejoice most fervently in the glorious emanci- 
" pation of the United Netherlands. They bless 
" God, thatwhilst this people appeared to human 
" eyes for ever blotted out of the list of nations, 
" He was at that moment preparing its restor- 
" ation to independence, and, it may be hoped, 
" to glory and power. They rejoice with the 
" patriotic Hollanders at the return of the illus- 
" trious house of Orange to their first magistracy r , 
" and do not wonder at their enthusiastic joy 
" upon the occasion, when they remember that 
" this ancient family have been always the gallant 
" and zealous defenders of the rights and liberties 
u of the Dutch people. 

" Resolved, That the liberation of Germany, 
" Italy, and Switzerland, and especially of 
" Prussia, with whom this country is connected 
" by treaty, are also causes of the most exalted 
" pleasure to this assembly. i 

" Resolved, That they have always witnessed 
" with deep emotion, and watched with con- 

i 4 



120 ALEXANDER THE DELIVERER. 

" stant anxiety, the struggle of the Spanish and 
" Portuguese nations for their independence : 
" and it therefore gives sincere delight to find 
" this independence fully confirmed, and nothing 
" but the unhappy situation in which this coun- 
" try is placed in relation to one of the allies, 
" prevents their expressing a just sense of the 
" virtues and talents of that chief, to whom, 
" under God, whole nations are so greatly 
" indebted. 

Resolved, That this assembly view with 
" mingled emotions of admiration and gratitude, 
" the unexampled magnanimity of the great heaA 
"of the Confederacy for the deliverance of 
" Christendom. The name of Alexander the 
" Deliverer, will be always dear to every lover 
" of national freedom, while the moderation, dis- 
" inter estedness, foresight, and determination of 
" all the Confederates, to sacrifice every thing to 
" the future repose of Europe, will cause their 
" names to be venerated, and the epoch to be for 
" ever memorable. It is with the greater joy they 
" perceive this liberality and true wisdom in the 
" allied councils, as it affords a well-grounded hope 
" of a restoration of peace to this country, on 
" terms compatible with its interest and its honor. 

" It is because the recent events in Europe 
" have a direct tendency to render liberty secure, 
" to check anarchical propensities, to restrain am- 
" bition, foster morals and religion, and to pro- 



FIRE WORKS, &C. 121 

" tect property and the arts, and finally, to give 
" solid peace to the Christian world, that this 
" assembly hail them as blessings, that they bow 
" in humble gratitude before the Almighty, 
" from whose goodness they all proceed : and 
" it is from a desire it may be known that, "with 
" many thousands of their countrymen, they 
" partake in the joy of all civilized nations, 
" that these feelings and sentiments are now 
" proclaimed. 

" These resolutions, having been severally con- 
" sidered, were cordially approved and unani- 
" mously adopted by the assembly. 

" In the evening fire-works were exhibited, and 
" by a resolve of the legislature the State-house 
" was illuminated, as were some private houses, 
" in a manner to complete the sober and dignified 
" enjoyment of the vast multitudes who united 
" in the celebration,' 9 

This is, 1 think, a curious document. The 
gentlemen, whose names it contains,, are the lead- 
ing men in Boston; and it may be taken as 
speaking the general sentiments of the inhabit- 
ants, not only of Boston, but of New England 
generally, and even of some persons in New 
York, upon a subject clearly illustrative of their 
views, at once, of European and general politics. 

24th September, 1817, I left Boston for Al- 
bany, in the stage : the distance is 180 miles ; 



122 INTERROGATORIES. 

the fare, 21. 14s. ; charge for all meals on the 
road, 2s. 3d. each ; for bed, 2s. 3d. : nothing 
given to waiters or coachmen. The stage called 
at my lodgings at two o'clock in the morning. 
There was, upon my entrance into it, but one 
passenger ; he was an American, and of course, 
soon obtained from me the information that I 
was going to Albany. We were driven about 
the town for an hour, taking up others; so that, 
before our starting, we were well filled witn 
passengers and their luggage. The man before 
referred to was going but ten miles ; yet he 
must know from every person how far they were 
travelling, and whether or not they were " na- 
tifees" of Boston. An old man, partially deaf, 
was the last object of his attack. His seat being 
central, the first question put to him was, 
" < Where are you going, middle on' ?" This 
being answered satisfactorily, the following dia- 
logue ensued : — 

Q. Do you keep at Boston ? — A. No. 

Q. Where do you keep ? — A. Fairfield. 

Q. Have you been a lengthy time in Boston, 
eh, say? — A. Seven days. 

Q. Where did you sleep last night ? — A. 

street. 

Q, What number ? — A. Seven. 

Q. That is Thomas Adonis 's house ? — 

A. No ; it is my son's. 

Q. What, have you a son ? — A. Yes \ and 
daughters. 



INTERROGATORIES. 123 

Q. What is your name ? — A. William Henry 
-, I guess. 



Q. Is your wife alive ? — A. No, she is dead, 
I guess. 

Q. Did she die slick right away ? — A. No ; 
not by any manner of means. 

Q. How long have you been married ? — A, 
Thirty years, I guess. 

Q. What age were you when you were mar- 
ried ? — A. I guess mighty near thirty- three. 

Q. If you were young again I guess you 
would marry earlier ? — A. No; I guess thirty- 
three is a mighty grand age for marrying. • 

Q. How old is your daughter ? — A. Twenty- 
five. 

Q. I guess she would like a husband?— A* 
No y she is mighty careless about that. 

Q. She is not awful (ugly), I guess ? — A. No, 
I guess she is not. 

Q. Is she sick ? — A. Yes. 

Q. What is her sickness ? — A. Consumption. 

Q. I had an item (a supposition) of that. You 
have got a doctor, I guess ? — A. Guess I have. 

Q. Is your son a trader ? — A. Yes. 

Q. Is he his own boss ? — A. Yes. 

Q. Are his spirits kedge (brisk) ? — A. Yes ; 
I expect they were yesterday. 

Q. How did he get in business 9 — A.I planted 
him there. I was his sponsor for a> thousand 
dollars. I guess he paid me within time ; and 



124 FIELD DAY. 

he is now progressing slick. He bought his 
store at a good lay (a good bargain). 

The young man's arrival at his destination 
put a stop to this course of question and answer ; 
and the inquisitive catechiser invited his elderly 
friend, when he should come that way, " to go 
by his house and dine with him." 

Northampton, 97 miles from Boston. We ar- 
rived at this town at ten o'clock at night. 

We started hence at two o'clock the following 
morning. The road leads over the Green Moun- 
tain, and is both tedious and difficult- There 
seemed scarcely a spot upon the mountains 
capable of cultivation. In one place there were 
ten frame buildings, among which a skeleton 
church was not the least prominent. 

At Pittsfleld, 140 miles from Boston, we 
stopped for an hour and a half. This town is 
singularly situated, in a beautiful and fertile 
valley, on the banks of the Hausatonic River. 
There are here two inns, five stores, 100 houses, 
a congregationalist church, and a military bar- 
racks. We arrived on a military field day : soldiers 
were exercising in the street : they were dressed 
in their common clothing ; — to distinguish of- 
ficers from men was difficult : some were armed 
with sticks, some with umbrellas, some with mus- 
kets ; all were talking, and each seemed to do as 
he pleased. At the church door, where a man was 
retailing cider, the sons of Mars were actively 



NAMES. HABITS. 1 25 

engaged in making purchases ; their officers 
joining in this department of military service. 

One of our passengers was a labouring man ; 
he conversed with ease and with good sense. I 
particularly remarked his correct pronunciation, 
and concluded that this class of society were 
much superior to the lower orders in England. 
He afterwards proved to be a Londoner, and 
had recently emigrated to this country, in the 
ship Perseus ; — an instance this how cautious 
travellers ought to be in drawing general con- 
clusions from particular facts. 

The country from Boston to Albany did not 
equal my expectations. The soil appears sterile, 
and there still remains immense tracts unculti- 
vated. The towns look new and handsome. A 
barren rock over which we travelled is named 
Lebanon; — this, I observe, accords with a point 
of national character, which shows itself in a 
love of striking, of ancient, and of hard names. 
Counties or towns are denominated Athens, 
Homer, Virgil, Horace, Cincinnati. Men — 
Cicero, Brutus, Solomon. Women — Penelope, 
Adeline, Desdemona. 

Upon the condition of the people I have little 
more to say than to repeat my former remarks. 
There seems no absolute want: all have the 
essential necessaries of life ; few its luxuries. 
Their habits and manners are similar to those I 
have observed in their countrymen generally: 



126 LIVE STOCK, &C. 

all seem to have a great deal of leisure, and few 
or none to occupy it for the purposes of mental 
improvement. The grossly coarse and vulgar 
man is as rare as the solidly intelligent and 
liberal. Ignorance, I suspect, exists a great 
deal more in fact than in appearance. Men 
seldom converse upon any subject except those 
connected with their immediate pecuniary in- 
terest ; — few appear to have any regard for the 
general extension of liberty to the whole human 
family. 

During the route of 1 80 miles, then, which 1 
have just traversed, I saw three men travelling 
on foot, four on horseback, two families in 
waggons removing to the western country, one 
on foot pursuing the same course. There were 
no beggars; — none who appeared much dis- 
tressed. The cows and horses are smaller than 
ours ; but they are compact in shape, and well 
fed. After having passed through Westboro, 
Worcester, Northampton, and Pittsfield, (all 
towns of considerable importance, and containing 
many excellent buildings,) I arrived late in the 
evening at 

Albany, the capital of the State of New York. 
It is distant from the city of New York about 
160 miles, and lies at the head of the sloop 
navigation of the Hudson River. Should the 
canal to Lake Erie be completed, this must be- 
come a first-rate town : it is, even at present, a 
H 



ALBANY. — PRICES. 1£>7 

place of extensive business. The building in 
which the State-legislature meet is called " The 
Capitol^" — it is situated on an elevation at the 
termination of the main street, and certainly 
presents a fine appearance. — I have only time 
to give you the following unarranged inform- 
ation concerning Albany. 

The population is about 12,000. Shop- 
keepers, of whom I have conversed with several, 
complain most bitterly of the state of trade. A 
large body of mechanics recently left here for 
want of employment j — the wages given to those 
who remain are the same as at New York : their 
board is three dollars per week. I pay at my inn 
one and a half dollar per day. Rent of a house 
and shop in a good situation, is from five to seven 
hundred dollars per annum, and the taxes about 
twenty dollars. There are many small wood 
houses, which are from fifty to one hundred and 
fifty dollars per annum, according to size and 
situation. Beef, mutton, and veal, are 5d. to did. 
per pound j fowls 8d. to 9£d. each ; ducks 13d. 
to I6d. ; geese, £s.3d. ; butter, 14d. a pound ; 
potatoes, SOd. a bushel ; flour, 45s. a barrel ; 
fish, 4d. to 7d. a pound ; rum and gin, 4s. 6d. 
per gallon ; brandy and hollands, 9s. 6d. 

I must still withhold my advice upon the ge- 
neral subject of emigration. I am not yet pos- 
sessed of evidence from which I can form that 
matured judgment, which should either give you 



128 EMIGRATION. 

encouragement, or the contrary. My feelings 
are certainly those of disappointment ; but feel- 
ing is a bad guide, and therefore its suggestions 
must remain, at present, confined to my own 
bosom. Perhaps one cause of these unfavour- 
able impressions is, that my ideas of this 
country, in common with your own, were higher 
than an experience of mankind, or a deliberate 
view of all the circumstances of this people, 
would have justified. Thus much, however, I 
can say, that, although I see no decidedly promi- 
ment inducement to emigration, yet the poor in- 
dustrious man, who has got a family, and the 
mechanic who is not earning more than a guinea 
a week, would find their pecuniary affairs im- 
proved by becoming citizens of this republic. 
To the capitalist, I can as yet give no satis- 
factory information. With anxious hopes that I 
shall receive letters when I arrive at Philadel- 
phia, I must for the present take my leave, in- 
tending to forward a further report by the very 
first opportunity. 



FOURTH REPORT. 



Citizen Genet. — Scenery of Hudson River. — Return to New 
York. — Vievo it more favour ably. — Enormous and danger- 
ous Powers vested in the Governor. — Leave New Yorhjbr 
Philadelphia. — Trenton. — General ' Moreau. — River 
Delaware. — Joseph Bonaparte. — Appearance of Country 
from New York to Trenton. — Arrival in Philadelphia. 
— Fine Appearance of that City — Want of domestic Comfort 

' and Cleanliness. — Preparations for a General Election. — 
Full Particulars of that Occurrence. — Copies of Election- 
eering Hand Bills. — Reflections upon Political Liberty in 
America. — Visit to Mayor's Court. — Law Proceedings. 

. — Visit to the Prison. — Its excellent Management. — 
The Pennsylvanian Hospital. — Public Buildings and In- 
stitutions. — Fine Arts. — PeaWs Museum. — Markets. 
— Prices of Provisions ; of Labour. — Rents. — Religious 
Serts. -— Fanatacism of some. — Estimation of Negroes. — 
Military Service. — Climate. — Diseases. — High Charges 
of Medical Gentlemen. — Poor Laws. -— Police. — State of 
Morals: of Manners. — Character of Philadelphian Ladies. 
—~ What Classes of Emigrants would be likely to succeed. — 
America rising in my Estimation. — Taxes. 

Philadelphia, Oct 12. 1817. 

I he well-known citizen Genet boarded at the 
inn at Albany, in which I took up my abode. 
When ambassador from the republic of France 
to the republic of America, he was peculiarly 
prominent, as having under his influence a large 
party, who were actively in opposition to the 
administration of General Washington : he was 

K 



130 CITIZEN GENET. 

in consequence recalled. At present he is an 
almost unnoticed individual ; though his polite- 
ness in this " land without manners," will cause 
him to be remarked, at least during his seat at 
the dinner-table. 

When I arrived at the inn, I was extremely 
cold. All the fires were surrounded by gen- 
tlemen smoking segars, and lolling back on 
chairs, with their feet fixed against the chimney- 
piece. An idea of making room for a shiver- 
ing stranger, seemed not to enter into their 
minds. I left Albany in the steam-boat Rich- 
mond, and proceeded to the city of Hudson. I 
hasten on in my detail to the city of New York, 
the interior of the State not having furnished me 
with any features peculiarly different from those 
already communicated ; but I must not quit 
the noble Hudson without first contributing my 
share of praise, in acknowledgment of the de- 
light I experienced in viewing the varied scenery 
of this magnificent river. Upon leaving Albany, 
the views which presented themselves were 
mild and pleasing - 9 as we approached the Cats- 
kill mountains, the scene assumed the true cha- 
racter of bold and fearless grandeur. 

The city of New York, upon a second visit, 
improved in my estimation : such is the effect 
of comparison ! The season having advanced, 
many had returned from " the springs," as Bal- 
ston and Saratoga are denominated. This pro- 



SECTIONAL PREJUDICES. 131 

duced a most striking improvement in the effect 
of the public promenade, particularly with re- 
spect to the females : many of them were hand- 
some, and had the appearance of health, while 
nearly all of them were even splendidly attired. 

My former acquaintances were, eager to know 
my opinion of Boston, and to discover how it 
stood in a " stranger's judgment," as compared 
with their own idolized city. 1 endeavoured to 
be impartial in drawing the parallel ; but no 
qualification of praise, as to their own place of 
residence, would satisfy them. Every sentence 
terminated with an appeal to some peculiar 
beauty or excellence which they possessed and 
the other town wanted ; as, " Remember Broad- 
"' way, Mr. Fearon !" or " You know, Sir, the 
" battery, Sir ! — the battery, Sir ! and Broad- 
" way, Mr. Fearon — and the battery ; there 
« can be nothing like these in the world." The 
Bostonians on their part are equally bigotted in 
favour of their town ; and indeed 1 find, almost 
universally, that sectional prejudices are as 
strong amongst themselves, as those which exist 
generally against England; for there seems 
to be no reasoning in the likes and dislikes of this 
people. 

Upon politics 1 have little to communicate. 
— I am told that the situations which are in 
the gift of the Council of Appointment (and 
they comprise almost every civil office in the 

K 2 



1*32 JOSEPH BONAPARTE. 

State) are bought and sold as commonly as the 
poor oppressed men of colour are in the neigh- 
bouring States ; or, to bring the matter nearer 
home, as frequently as seats in our House of 
Commons. 

2d October. Left New York for Philadelphia? 
in the steam-boat " Olive Branch." 

In the evening I arrived at Trenton, which is 
the capital of New Jersey. General Moreau's 
stables are still standing in this neighbourhood: 
his dwelling-house was consumed by fire. King 
Joseph was negotiating for a house here^ in an- 
ticipation of his brother Lucien's arrival : the 
price was to have been 30,000 dollars. At six 
o'clock in the morning we recommenced our 
journey for Philadelphia. Joseph Bonaparte's 
house is situated on the Jersey banks of the river 
Delaware: in appearance it is equal to a mo- 
derate English country seat. He is said to have 
bought it for 10,000 dollars, and to have laid 
out 20,000 more in having it completed in a 
splendid style. At present he is from home, 
having gone to view Niagara Falls. His asso- 
ciates are French gentlemen, but he is easy 
of access, and appears to participate in the 
interests of the country ; — owns a steam-boat, 
and would be popular, if it were only on account 
of his riches. When he arrived in New York 
from Europe, an anecdote is currently related 
of the American porter who was removing his 



ROUTE TO PHILADELPHIA. 133 

baggage from the vessel. It was heavy. King 
Joseph was standing on the wharf ; — the honest 
republican called to him, " Come, Boney, lend 
« a hand." 

At ten o'clock we arrived at Market-street 
Wharf, Philadelphia. Before I enter upon 
a description of this truly fine city, it may be 
well to occupy a few lines with what remarks 
I have made on the country through which I 
have passed. The banks of the Rariton are low, 
but contain some fine salt meadows. The 
country from New Brunswick to Trenton is well 
cultivated, but the soil appears indifferent : the 
roads are extremely bad. Easiness of circum- 
stances, or rather an absence of poverty, ap- 
pears to characterise the condition of the in- 
habitants : the negroes are sorely oppressed. 
There are many good houses in the towns. Six 
steam-boats passed us on the Delaware : the 
scenery of this river possesses no character in 
common with that of the Hudson : there is a 
total absence of the bold and the grand : yet it 
possesses much that may be termed beautiful, 
with a calm serenity which is very pleasing. 

When our boat arrived we were inundated 
with porters, the greater part of whom were 
blacks, the rest were Irish : they had tin plates 
on their hats or breasts, upon which were written 
their names and residences. I, for the first 
time, allowed my trunk to go out of my sight. 

k S 



1M PHILADELPHIA, 

In England, among strange porters, I should 
have been more particular, but here such things 
are done without hesitation. I should not sup- 
pose that this proceeded from any peculiar feel- 
ings of national honour, or a general spirit of 
integrity : the real cause lies, I rather think, in 
the simple fact, that any man may obtain work, 
and when it is completed, will be liberally paid. 
The inducements to dishonesty are thus less- 
ened at their true source. 

My first impressions of this city were decid- 
edly favourable : it gave me ideas of a substantial 
<:ast. In the possession of a character essentially 
different from New York — it has not so much 
business, not so much gaiety, not so much life ; 
but there is in Philadelphia a freedom from mere 
display, a relief from gaudy trappings, an evi- 
dence of solidity, of which its more commercial 
rival is nearly destitute. The streets are clean, 
well and regularly built. First-rate private 
houses are numerous, as are also public build- 
ings ; but their architecture is not of the highest 
order. The foot-paths are impeded by an inju- 
dicious mode of constructing cellars, by which 
they project into the street ; and also by a very 
slovenly practice of the storekeepers, which is 
common in America, namely, placing quantities 
of loose goods outside of their doors. 

The quality of some of the water of Phila- 
delphia may be estimated from the experiment 



THE DELAWARE. 135 

of Mr. Hunter, who, upon analysing 220 gallons 
from a pump in Second-street, found it to con- 
tain tne following ingredients: 12 oz. chalk, 
32 oz. salt-petre, 17 oz. magnesia, 24 oz. common 
sea- salt. 

The Delaware, of which the Indian name is 
Poutaxat^ upon the banks of which this city is 
built, rises in the State of New York. At this 
city it is 1360 yards wide, and is navigable for 
vessels of any burden. It is frozen in the 
winter months ; a circumstance which materially 
affects the commercial interests of Philadelphia, 
and gives a great advantage to New York, as the 
latter port is rarely closed. 

The present population of Philadelphia is 
estimated at 120,000, many of whom live jn 
houses which would adorn any city in the world. 
Rents are about 25 per cent, lower than in New 
York : this, I should apprehend, does not pro- 
ceed either from a comparative want of prospe- 
rity, from cheaper materials, or lower-priced 
labour ; but from a more general equality of 
desirable situations, combined with the exist- 
ence of more real, though perhaps less appa- 
rent capital. It may be also that rents are in- 
fluenced by the calculating habits of the Society 
of Friends, who reside here in great numbers. 

After a residence of three days at the hotel, I 
removed to a private boarding-house, in one of 
the bed-rooms of which I am now writing. The 

k 1« 



138 OUTSIDE SPLENDOUR, 

dining-room of this establishment is genteel 5 
but the other apartments, and more particularly 
the kitchen, are of a kind not much to excite 
admiration. I perceived here what — unpleasant 
as may be the discovery, I think 1 have ob- 
served elsewhere, and — worse still, what I fear 
pervades this new world, an affectation of splen- 
dour, or what may be called style, in those things 
which are intended to meet the public eye ; with 
a lamentable want even of cleanliness in such 
matters as are removed from that ordeal. To 
this may be added, an appearance of uncom- 
fortable extravagance, and an ignorance of that 
kind of order and neatness which constitute, in 
the sight of those who have once enjoyed it, 
the principal charm of domestic life. I should 
rejoice to find myself in an error in this judg-. 
ment \ but all I have seen myself, and all I have 
collected from the observation of others most 
competent to form a correct opinion, tend to 
its confirmation. 

Last evening I drank tea at a genteel private 
house- — The furniture was splendid, the table 
profusely supplied, being loaded with fish, dried 
beef and sausages, and numerous other articles ; 
thebreadand butter was roughly cutin huge hunks 
piled zig-zag. The children's faces were dirty> 
their hair uncombed, their dispositions evidently 
untaught, and all the members of the family, 
from the boy of six years of age, up to the owner 



FUNERALS.— ELECTION. 137 

(I was going to say master) of the house, appear- 
ed independent of each other. I have seen the 
same characteristics in other families — in some 
indeed decidedly the contrary ; but these latter 
would seem to be the exceptions, and the former 
the general rule. 

Funerals are uniformly attended by large 
walking processions. In the newspapers I have 
frequently observed advertisements stating the 
deaths, and inviting all friends to attend the 
i burial. The dead are seldom kept more than two 
days. At the time appointed, intimate friends 
enter the house, others assemble outside, and 
fall into the procession when the body is brought 
out. Sorrow does not seem depicted in the 
countenances of any, but few wear mourning, 
and many smoke segars ; none appear charge- 
able with the hypocrisy described by the poet of 
" mocking sorrow with a heart not sad/' 

The present is a most busy time at this place, 
to-morrow being the day of election for the 
governor of the State of Pennsylvania. I have 
been fortunate in having letters of introduction 
to the leading man of one of the great political 
parties which divide this State ; inasmuch as by 
that means I have witnessed all the novel ma- 
chinery which is now in such active operation. 

The governor has the gift of from forty to 
fifty offices, amongst which are those of recorder, 
alderman, and indeed every minor as well as 

8 



138 POLITICAL PARTIES. 

important civil occupation. Auctioneers also re- 
ceive their authority to sell from the governor ; 
and their number being small, the profession be- 
comes a most valuable monopoly. By means of 
this statement you will see the value and im- 
portance of the office of governor, and will not 
be surprised that its obtainment should be the 
object of a severe contest. 

16th Oct. The election being now closed, I 
can sit down and review it calmly as a whole. 
It has been to me a highly interesting scene. 
The political parties at present range I believe 
as follows : 

1st. The violent democrats, denominated 
" Patent Democrats." 

2d. The moderate democrats, called by the 
several names of " Independent Republicans," 
" Democrats of the Revolution," and " Old 
" Schoolmen." 

3d. Federalists, denominated alsd " Tories," 
" Hartford Conventionalists," and " Blue Light 
• Men." 

4th. No party men, called " Quids." 

The present candidates for the office of go- 
vernor are each of them of the democratic party. 
General Hiester is of the moderate faction, and 
is also supported against his opponent by the 
federalists and quids. Mr. Finlay has the pow- 
erful aid of the unyielding democrats ; and, 
though he is in a minority in the proportion of 



ELECTION OF GOVERNOR. 139 

one to three within the city of Philadelphia, 
little doubt is entertained of his election's having 
been carried by a large majority through the 
State at large, All that are citizens, whether 
native or naturalized, of the age of SI years 
and upwards, and who have paid their taxes, 
have the right of voting. It is not necessary that 
a man should be a householder in order to pay 
taxes, there being here a direct or poll tax of Qs. 
per annum, which alone, when paid by men pos- 
sessed of the previous qualification of citizenship, 
establishes the right to vote. The general elec- 
tion is preceded by an election in the different 
wards of officers called Inspectors, whose busi- 
ness it is to receive the ballot ticket of voters : 
parties try their strength in this first step. I 
witnessed the mode of voting : the persons 
choosing inspectors attend at a stated place in 
their own ward, and deliver in their ballot through 
a window. The number assembled at any one 
time did not exceed twenty. There was no 
noise, no confusion, in fact, not even convers- 
ation. 1 was astonished to witness the anxiety 
felt by leading men, that their party should be 
elected inspectors. The eventual choice at the 
general election seemed, in fact, in their esti- 
mation, actually to rest upon the having " In- 
spectors" of their own party. I remarked to 
them that it could be of no consequence of what 
party these gentlemen were, as they were pro- 



140 ELECTIONEERING BETS. 

tected from partial or corrupt conduct by the 
mode of voting being by ballot. One of them 
informed me afterwards, that the fact of the in- 
spectors being on one side or the other had been 
calculated to make a difference of upwards of 
200 votes in a particular section ! — arising from 
the reception of improper, and the rejection of 
good votes. The means by which an inspector, 
can effect this, though the mode is by ballot, is 
said to be remarkably exact. That there may 
be some truth in this statement, would seem 
probable from a scene which I witnessed in the 
evening. I called upon the gentleman before 
alluded to. His room was completely crammed 
with the managers of the forth-coming election ; 
and here, instead of finding that the general 
anxiety was at all connected with the advance- 
ment of correct political principles, I heard the 
following conversation : — 

" I'll bet you fifty (dollars) on Hiester in 
Chesnut ward." 

" What majority will you give him ?" 

" One-fourth." 

" Give old Sour Kraut (Hiester) a hundred 
and thirty, and I'll take you." 

" Done." 

" What will you give Finlay in Lower Dela- 
ware ward ?" 

" One hundred." 

" And what to Hiester ?" 



: CAUCUS. 141 

" Three hundred." 

« Give Bill three and a half, and Til take you 
for five hundred." 

" No : I'll give him three and a half for a pair 
of boots." 

,' " 'Giiess I'll take you for a pair and a hat. — 
What for Dock ward ?" 

" I won't bet on Dock : they're all a set of 
d -d Tories." 

«,< Will you give Joe four hundred in South 
Mulberry?" 

" I won't take Joe, I guess, in that ward ?" 

" Whatwillyou give Billy in South Mulberry?" 

" A couple of hundred." 

" Done for five hundred." 

AIL " What majority upon the whole election, 
Friend - J — , will you advise us to give ?" 

Fr. " You must be cautious in your majori- 
ties. We do not know how Beaver and Dauphin 
(the counties of Dauphin and Beaver) may turn 
out — Mind ! save yourselves. — -If you find Billy 
(Findlay) going down, take up Sour Kraut 
(Hiester)." 

I should have explained, that elections are 
managed, and even governed by a something 
(a species of meeting) which, I confess, I do not 
yet perfectly understand : it is called a " Cau- 
cus. 9 * Candidates do not personally appear. 
Those who wish to be chosen obtain, as a pre- 
liminary step, what is termed " The Appoint- 



142 federalists' ticket. 

merit" This is said to secure them the support 
of the whole of that party from which "the 
appointment'* emanates. An announcement, 
called " The Ticket," issues from this Caucus a 
few days before the election ; in this case there 
were three of these " tickets," severally headed, 
Federal, Republican, and Democratic. The 
federalists sent to an acquaintance of mine 
their " ticket," enclosed in the following cir- 
cular letter; though I would remark, that can- 
vassing, in the English meaning of that word, 
is not allowed — 

" Fellow Citizen, 

" The exercise of the elective franchise is at 
" all times a privilege of the highest value : — 
" on the present occasion every federalist has 
" an opportunity to aid in dispelling preju- 
" dices — in lessening the malignity of party 
6i spirit — in restoring the right of free election, 
" and of resisting those dangerous abuses in 
" government, introduced by office-holders, which, 
" if not promptly and steadily checked, threaten 
" to become inveterate and irremediable. Let 
" every man be vigilant, active, and firm, on this 
" day, and success will crown our efforts. 

" The inspectors have resolved to open the 
Si poll precisely at 9 o'clock. 
" October 14, 1817." 



DEMOCRATIC TICKET. 143 

The democratic party adopt the same mode. 
I enclose you two of their circulars. These docu- 
ments, as well as others which will follow, are, 
perhaps, better calculated than any other plan 
which I could adopt, to put you in possession of 
the state of parties, their mode of conduct and 
feelings towards each other, and also the general 
political condition of the whole people. 

(circular.) 
" Sir, 

"We enclose you the Democratic Ticket, 
" which is recommended by the delegates and 
" conferrees fairly chosen, after public notice. 
<< We request you to vote it and give it all the 
" support to which you may deem it entitled. 
"• We consider THIS election as involving the 
" most important consequences. Federalism^ 
" conscious of its own feebleness and inability 
" to wrestle with the strength of democracy, 
" has made a union with a few disappointed 
" men; hoping through them to turn over, 
" not only this city and district, but the State 
" and Union to Federal misrule. 

" Be careful to bring with you your receipt 
" for county tax. If a naturalized citizen, be 
V sure to bring your certificate of naturaliza- 
" tion, as it will, in all probability, be required. 
" These cautions are deemed more than ever 
" necessary, from the shameful conduct and 



4W ELECTIONEERING. 

(* persecuting spirit manifested by the Federal 
" Judges, at the late ward election. Be on the 
" ground early. It is of an importance, that 
" every citizen votes, because it may be that a 
" vote would carry a candidate. 
" Philadelphia, October 6, 1815." 



DEMOCRATIC ADDRESS. 

u Citizens, Democrats, Americans ! This is 
" the day of the General Election ! If you value 
" your own rights, your own happiness, your 
" political characters, your liberties, or your Re- 
" publican institutions, every man to the poll, 
" and vote the Democratic Ticket ; it is headed 
"with the name of the patriot William Find- 
" lay. — Citizens/ the times are momentous! 
" the seceders from the Democratic ranks have 
" joined with our old and inveterate political 
" enemies to put down Democracy. It is an 
" unholy league between apostates and political 
" traitors on the one part, and on the other the 
" ariglo-federalists, the monarchists; the aristo- 
" crats, the Hartford conventionalists, theblue- 
« light men, the embargo-breakers, the Henry- 
" ites, the men who in time of Peace cried out 
"for War! War! but who in time of war, 
" called themselves the Peace party. — Huzza 
« for William Findlay, and no bribery. — A 
" long pull, a strong pull, and a pull altogether." 



william findlay. 145 

federal address. 

" William Findlay — 
" 1. A selfish politician, who never served his 
" country, and always on the look-out for office. 
" 2. An apostate federalist and time-server. 
" S. A constant office-hunter. 4. A treasury 
" broker and public defaulter, who exchanged 
u and used public money for his own benefit. 
" 5. One who holds morality in contempt, and 
" maintains and practises the maxim, that the 
" end justifies the means, 6. One who has re- 
?? sorted to the basest falsehoods to support him- 
" self. 7- One who intrigued and bargained 
"for the office, and openly electioneered for 
" himself. 8. A state inquisitor, who would 
" gag, if not immolate every man, not of his 
" own sect. 9. A man who has blended the 
" public money with his own, and is yet to ac- 
" count for misdemeanor in office. 10. A bar- 
" barian, who holds that ' the study of the law 
" disqualifies a man from being a judge.' " 



" Take notice who are the friends of Wil- 
" ham Findlay, — 1. Traitors and apostates. 
" 2. Inveterate aristocrats. 3. Office-holders and 
" office-hunters. 4. Cormorants for the loaves 
M and fishes, and friends only to themselves. 
" 5. Fugitives from British gaols and justice. 

" Take care !!! — William Findlay's election 

L 



148 ELECTION. 

" will be sure, 1. If the Republicans stay at 
" home, 2. If they are negligent or timid on 
41 the election ground. 3. If election, like trea- 
" sury frauds, are not detected and prevented. 

" Take advice, — 1. Look well to your tickets. 
" 3. Look well to your boxes. 3. Look well 
" to your tallies. 4. Look well to your returns ; 
" and, 5. Look well to those who vote, that 
" they are qualified." 

The following morning I was early on the 
election ground. The place appointed to re- 
ceive votes * for the city (exclusive of Southwark 
and the northern liberties), was in the State- 
house — - the same building in which that im- 
mortal document was passed — the declar- 
ation of independence! There were two in- 
spectors for each ward of the city placed at 
separate windows. The electors delivered in 
their votes from the street. The ground was 
what is here called manned ; that is, persons in 
the interest of the parties have written on their 
hat or breast, " Federal Ticket," or " De- 
" mocratic Ticket," soliciting citizens as they 
approach the poll " to vote their ticket ;" for 
which purpose they are prepared to furnish them 
with the printed balloting list of their party. 
The neighbouring public-houses were, of course, 

* The city and state are divided into election districts, 
, The whole terminates in one day. 



GENERAL BARKER. 147 

occupied by the electioneerers. I resolved to 
devote to this as much of my time as possible, in 
obtaining an insight into the character and mind 
of this people, and to observe them acting in 
their political capacity. They were all betting 
upon the election ; but I lament to say, that 
few, if any, appeared to care one straw about 
principle. Old General Barker (whom I had 
heard the previous evening make a most able 
speech in favour of Mr. Findlay, at a public meet- 
ing of the democrats) was travelling about to 
the several depots of leading characters. I could 
hardly credit my sight that he was the same 
person whom I had heard the previous evening. 
His chief employment during the day seemed 
drinking rum and gin, with any and every body. 
I made some remarks to him concerning his 
speech : he pleasantly answered, " My good 
" fellow, I did as well as I could, I guess : they 
" made me open the ball." This old general 
was the companion in arms of Washington : he 
has been both sheriff and mayor : he has the 
character of possessing a good heart, and very 
improvident generosity. 

The election terminated throughout the State 
in one day. The excitement of party and pe- 
cuniary feeling, by the universality of gambling . 
upon the^ occasion, was very great; yet there 
was no confusion, no disturbance. Let it be 
borne in mind, that here wa$ the right 0>f 

l 3 



148 REDEMPTIONERS* 

Noting to the utmost extent, and exercised by 
2l people, concerning whom it is high praise 
to say, that they are not superior in intellect, 
in information, in honest zeal, and in tempe- 
rate ideas of liberty, to the English nation ; 
yet there is much to lament here. The ori- 
ginal documents given in the preceding pages 
are too full upon this point : they, indeed, are 
far from complimentary to our nature; but 
at the same time we should recollect, that in 
the political, as in the moral and natural worlds, 
we must endure evils, in order to insure a pre- 
ponderance of good. The extent of my ap- 
probation, then, upon this occasion, is a con- 
viction of the compatibility of popular election 
with peace and good order ; and, if possessed 
by the English people, I should presume, it 
would not be attended with so many abuses. 

REDEMPTI0NER3, 

A practice which has been often referred 
to in connection with this country, naturally 
excited my attention,, It is that of indivi- 
duals emigrating from Europe without money, 
and paying for their passage by binding them- 
selves to the captain, who receives the pro- 
duce of their labour for a certain number of 
years. 

Seeing advertisements of which, I visited the 
ship, in company with a boot-maker of this city : 

io # 



DUTCH SLAVES. 149 

"THE PASSENGERS 
45 On board the brig Bubona, from Amsterdam, and 
w who are willing to engage themselves for a limited 
" time, to defray the expences of their passage, consist 
" of persons of the following occupations, besides women 
" and children, viz. 13 farmers, 2 bakers, 2 butchers, 
" 8 weavers, 3 taylors, 1 gardener, 3 masons, 1 mill- 
6< sawyer, 1 white-smith, 2 shoe-makers, 3 cabinet- 
" makers, 1 coal-burner, 1 barber, 1 carpenter, 1 stock- 
" ing-weaver, 1 cooper, 1 wheelwright, 1 brewer, 
" 1 locksmith. — Apply on board of the Bubona, op- 
" posite Callowhill-street, in the river Delaware, or to 
" W. Odlin and Co. No. 38, South Wharves. 
" Oct. 2." 

As we ascended the side of this hulk, a most 
revolting scene of want and misery presented 
itself. The eye involuntarily turned for some 
relief from the horrible picture of human suf- 
fering, which this living sepulchre afforded. 
Mr. enquired if there were any shoe- 
makers on board. The captain advanced : his 
appearance bespoke his office ; he is an Ame- 
can, tall, determined, and with an eye that 
flashes with Algerine cruelty. He called in the 
Dutch language for shoe-makers, tad never can 
I forget the scene which followed* The poor 
fellows came running up with unspeakable 
delight, no doubt anticipating a relief from their 
loathsome dungeon, Their clothes, if rags 
deserve that denomination, actually perfumed the 
air. Some were without shirts, others had this 

l 3 



150 HOUSE OF ORANGE. 

article of dress, but of a quality as coarse as 
the worst packing cloth. I enquired 6f several 
if they could speak English. They smiled, and 
gabbled, " No Engly, no Engly, — one Engly 
*' talk ship." The deck was filthy. The cook- 
ing, washing, and necessary departments were 
close together. Such is the mercenary bar- 
barity of the Americans who are engaged in this 
trade, that they crammed into one of those ves- 
sels 500 passengers, 80 of whom died on the 
passage. The price for women is about 70 dol- 
lars, men 80 dollars, boys 60 dollars. When 
they saw at our departure that we had not pur- 
chased, their countenances fell to that standard 
of stupid gloom which seemed to place them a 
link below rational beings. From my heart I 
execrated the European cause of their removal, 
which is thus daily compelling men to quit the 
land of their fathers, to become voluntary exiles 
in a foreign clime : — yet Americans can think 
and write such sentiments as the following : 
" We rejoice with the patriotic Hollanders at 
" the return of the illustrious house of Orange 
" to their first magistracy, and do not wonder 
" at their enthusiastic joy upon the occasion, 
" when they remember that this ancient family 
" have been always the gallant and zealous 
" defenders of the rights and liberties of the 
" Dutch people." 

An interesting occurrence is said to have taken 



THE MAYOR'S COURT. 151 

place the other day, in connection with the Ger- 
man lledemptioners (as by a strange misnomer 
the Dutch are denominated). A gentleman of 
this city wanted an old couple to take care of 
his house ; — - a man, his wife, and daughter were 
offered to him for sale ; — he purchased them. 
. — They proved to be his father, his mother,- 
and sister ! ! ! 

I must now conduct you back to the city. 
The mayor's court is for the trial of petty 
offences. It is four times as large, and ten 
times more convenient for the public than our 
lord mayor's court. When I visited it, the 
mayor and two judges were upon the bench. 
The first case was for assault and battery. The 
plaintiff had a stall in a particular field, on the 
fourth of July, (the great national day, being 
the anniversary of the declaration of independ- 
ence ;) the defendant claimed a right to the 
spot of ground, not that it was his \ property, 
but because he had occupied it the preceding 
year. The plain tirr] to rid himself of troublesome 
interference, had, at the time, given the defend- 
ant five dollars. This sum satisfied the latter for 
the moment, but afterwards conceiving that he 
could induce or compel him to pay more, he 
took with him three men, and they had assaulted 
and ill-used the plaintiff. 

Mayor. " How long have you been in 
" prison ?" 

l 4 



15£ THE MAYOR'S COURT. 

Defend, " Two months." 

Mayor. " Have you not been brought to 
" trial before ?" 

Defend. "No." 

Mayor. " In consideration of your having 
" been that period of time in confinement, we 
" discharge you." 

Second case. Thomas Rapoon, brought up 
at the suit of his wife, for ill usage : the charge 
was fully proved.- 

Mayor. " What do you wish to have done 
" to your husband ?" 

* Mrs. R. " Nothing, Sir, I discharge him, 
" Sir, I guess ; but only I cannot live with him, 
" he beats me regularly before mass." 

Mayor. " I will consider the case." 

Third. William Jackson, for ill-treating his 
wife. The charge proved, but no decision given 
during my stay. 

Fourth. V. Fitzgerald for stealing two turn- 
biers. He spoke in rather a low tone of voice. 
The court stated to him, " Unless you speak 
" louder, we cannot attend to your case." — 
" There," (said the clerk, whose voice was sin- 
gularly weak,) " raise your voice as high as 
" mine." A decision was not given in this case. 

Fifth. A man of colour for stealing a saw. 

Mayor. " Yellow boy ! what have you to 
" say against this charge, are you guilty or not 
"guilty?" 



THE MAYOR'S COURT. 153 

Prisoner. " Not guilty, gentimman, I was 
"going long street groggy, man groggy too; 
" (laughing in the court,) me go long so bad 
" groggy, lay down, put saw by side, man steal 
" saw from me, me not steal saw from no 
" man." 

Mayor. " I guess, you have not been long in 
" this country, yellow boy?" 

Prisoner. " No : quite long enough." (Laugh- 
ing in the court,) 

Mayor. " Where do you come from ?" 

Prisoner. " Jamaica ; you let me out, me back 
" Jamaica pretty quick." (Universal laughing.) 

Mayor. " How long have you been in 
" prison?" 

Prisoner. " Seven weeks." \ 

Mayor. "In consideration of your having 
" had that period of punishment before trial, we 
" sentence you to pay the fine of one cent only, 
" and to be further confined for one calendar 
" month." 

MUSEUM, PAINTINGS, &C. 

A brief account of some of the exhibitions of 
this city may not be uninteresting; and may serve, 
too, incidentally to communicate some ideas as 
to the manners and pursuits of the people. 

Peale's Museum contains an extensive col- 
lection of the curiosities usual in such establish- 
ments, divided into three departments. The 



I5h peale's museum. 

Mammoth skeleton complete, is a most tre- 
mendous object. I remarked that there were 
several quart bottles filled with ashes of the 
paper called " Continental money." This was 
the circulating medium of the Revolution, and 
by the means of which they carried on that 
glorious struggle. The nation have not re- 
deemed their notes, nor I presume will they ever. 
I boarded at the house of a widow lady at New 
York, whose whole family had been utterly 
ruined by holding these notes. I remarked 
Talleyrand's oath of allegiance to the United 
States in his own hand-writing ! a cake of 
portable soup, which was sent from England in 
1775, for the use of the British army! Penn's 
curtains; and a scrap of poetry, called " The Cow 
Chase," in the hand-writing of the gallant and 
interesting Andre, written a few hours before 
his execution. The portraits in this establish- 
ment are very numerous, including those of 
Americans of great, down to those of very 
limited, celebrity. I also remarked the like- 
nesses of Paine, Arthur O'Connor, and Dr. 
Priestley. The style of their execution is but 
little creditable to the talents of the artist (Mr. 
Peale), and would seem to be below the standard 
of his ability, if we judge at least from the speci- 
men which he has given in a fine portrait of Na- 
poleon, after David ; where, by the way, he has 
committed the error of substituting an American 

* 9 



EXHIBITIONS. 155 

horse, marked by the very long shaggy hair near 
the hoofs, by which they are distinguished. 

The painting of the Anaconda, which was 
exhibited in Spring Gardens, is now here, at 
the house of Mr. Earl. It is certainly a first- 
rate production. I remarked in the same room 
a table of the Connecticut marble, which is so 
beautiful that it has become, 1 am told, an 
article of export to France. 

Mr. Sully's collection of paintings is small, but 
select. They are chiefly of his own execution. 
" Madame Ricamier returned from the bath," is 
by a French artist. This is a beautifully executed 
arid delicate picture. The " Country Wedding" 
by Sully is interesting, and in the style of our 
best domestic pieces. The idea of the " Ame- 
rican village politicians" is taken from Wilkie, 
with much variation in particulars and general 
effect, the national characters having hardly one 
part of contact. " The Capture of Major 
Andre" is particularly interesting : I shall long 
have before my eyes the lively picture of this 
accomplished gentleman. Mr. Sully is a por- 
trait painter : his charges are for a full-length 
500 dollars; half, 200; head and hands, 150; 
bust, 100. 

The Academy of Fine Arts is a highly respect- 
able institution, which, without the pretence 
and puff of its sister establishment in New York, 
possesses a most decided superiority. There 



1*56 PENITENTIARY. 

are numerous excellent paintings, and a hall of 
statuary, in which are some fine specimens or 
Venus, the Gladiator, Apollo, &c. 

There is here exhibited what 1 believe is the 
first attempt at panoramic painting in America-— 
a view of the city of Newhaven. Its merits are 
of a very negative kind. The charge for each 
of these exhibitions is a quarter of a dollar, 
(Is. lid.) 

PENITENTIARY, MARKETS, &C... 

The Penitentiary system for the rational 
punishment and reform of criminals, being a 
subject with which you are familiar, I shall not 
trouble you with the details of the humane and 
enlightened management of the gaol in this city. 
I visited it on Saturday last. The keeper 
accompanied me into every apartment, giving, 
as we proceeded, the most full explanations.. 
The scene was novel, and I had almost said 
delightful ; but a recollection that I was viewing 
the consequences of vicious pursuits, checks the 
expression, and draws a tear for the weakness of 
humanity; — yet I could not but be pleased, and 
highly so^ on drawing a comparison between 
what I saw here, and what I have witnessed in 
the London prisons. Here, instead of the pri- 
soners passing their times in idleness, or in low 
debauchery and gaming, all was sobriety, life, 
and activity. A complete manufacturing town 



PENITENTIARY. 157 

was in fact collected within the narrow precincts 
of these otherwise gloomy walls. The open 
court was occupied by stone-cutters, chiefly 
negroes. It would appear, on first seeing this 
department only, that these were either more 
vicious, or more hardly dealt with in the courts 
of law, than their white countrymen. But the 
true reason of their numbers in the yard is, that 
few of them being mechanics, they are set to 
labour upon those things for which they are 
fitted, and which they can undertake with little 
previous instruction. The rooms in which the 
mechanic arts are carried on, have a very great 
proportion of whites, so that crime would by no 
means seem to be monopolized by our darker 
brethren. The produce of the labour of pri- 
soners nearly supports the whole of this ex- 
tensive establishment. Some have earned a 
sufficiency by their own work to enable them to 
commence business on the expiration of their 
term of confinement. Those who conduct them- 
selves with industry and propriety, receive a 
remission of part of their sentence. Several 
have become honest and useful members of 
society- When the gaoler spoke to the prisoners, 
they addressed him with confidence, but with 
proper respect. He is a plain intelligent man, 
liberally, though not profusely paid for his 
services. To have offered him money for his 
trouble, would, lam sure, have been considered 



158 HOSPITALS. — - MARKETS. 

an insult. What a contrast does sueh a man 
afford to our prison-keepers, the majority of 
whom are perhaps greater criminals than those 
over whom they tyrannize. Surely, the example 
of Pennsylvania will not be lost upon our country. 
Here is the best of all evidence, demonstrative 
proof, that brutal treatment, hangings, and gib- 
beting, are neither the most economical nor the 
most efficacious, as they are certainly neither the 
most humane, nor the most enlightened modes 
of punishing crime or reforming society ; and if 
we wish to preserve the character of a feeling 
and enlightened people, we must reform that 
foul disgrace to England, and to the age in 
which we live — our criminal code. One fact, 
in connection with the prison, I have omitted 
to mention ; and as it is a characteristic trait of 
national character, it ought to be recorded — 
white criminals will not eat with the negroes, 
the latter therefore have a separate table ! • ! 

From this receptacle of moral evil, I walked 
to one of physical pain and suffering, the Penn- 
sylvania Hospital, an institution in every way 
a national honour. The medical reputation of 
the gentlemen connected with this establishment 
would be highly estimated in the first European 
cities. 

The markets are large and well supplied;— the 
chief is in Market-street. The time of sale is 
from day-light to 2 o'clock from the 1st of April 



PROVISIONS, BOARD, &C. 159 

to the 1st of September, and from day-light to 
3 o'clock the remainder of the year. No butchers 
are allowed to kill in the city, nor are live cattle 
to be driven to the city markets. 

PRICES. 

The prices of fish vary from 2d. to 6|d. 
per pound ; beef, which is of excellent quality, 
4d. to 5Jd. ; mutton, 3|d. to 4£d. ; veal, 5|d. ; 
pork, 5Jd. to 7d. ; bacon, 7d. to 8d. : butter, 
17d. to 20d. ; cheese, 9id. ; English ditto, l6d. ; 
onions, 13d. per peck ; potatoes, 3s. 4jd. a 
bushel ; cabbages, 2id. each ; fowls, 12Jd. to 
#s. 3d. each ; ducks, 20d. to 2s. 3d. ; geese, 
3s. 4^d. to 4s. 6d. ; turkeys, 5s. 6d. ; these four 
last articles are one half larger than those you 
have in England, but I am inclined to think 
their flesh is inferior in quality; strong beer, 
20d. per gallon j apples, 3s. 4£d. per bushel \ 
flour, 10 dollars per barrel of 196 pounds ; dipt 
candles are lOd. per pound ; moulds, l%d. j 
moist sugar, 6|d.to 9d. ; lump ditto, Is. to Is. 5d.; 
tea, 4s. 6d. to 9s. ; soap, 6jd. to 10d.; chocolate, 
13Jd. to 20d. ; raw coffee, lOd. to 13^d. ; Liver- 
pool salt, 3s. 4d. per bushel ; loaf of bread, 
weighing 2 pounds 2 ounces, 5|d. \ Indian corn, 
per bushel, 4s. 6d. ; buck-wheat flour, 4s. 6d. 
Mechanics pay 13s. 6d. to 15s. 9d. per week for 
board and lodging : many board with their em- 
ployers : all eat, work, and sleep in companies. 



ISO Grades, wages, &c. 

Moderately respectable boarding is from 20s. 3d. 
to $7s. ; genteel ditto, 31s. 6d. to 54s. Charge 
at the best inns, 9s. per day, exclusive of beer 
and liquors. 

WAGES.. 

Labourers are paid 4s. (id. to 5s. 7*d. a day ; 
female servants, 4s. 6d. to 9s. per week, with 
their board ; cooks, 6s. 9d. to 9s. ; men ser- 
vants, 54s. to 67s. 6d. per month ; carpenters 
earn 36s. to 47s. 3d. per week, time of work 
from sun-rise to sun-set ; cabinet-makers, 36s. to 
45s., working generally by the piece ; brick- 
layers, 31s. 6d. to 45s. ; tinmen, 27s. to 54s. ; 
shoemakers, 31s. 6d. to 40s. 6d. — they work 
more hours than in London ; saddlers 31s. 6d. 
to 45s. — this business at present is not good ; 
coachmakers, 36s. to 45s. — at present bad here, 
but tolerably good at Newark in jersey ; taylors, 
86s. to 45s. — a variable business, sometimes 
good employment, often not, it is largely in the 
hands of women ; printers, compositors and 
pressmen, 36s. to 45s. — employment tolerably 
good, but not certain ; apprentices perform a 
large portion of the work. 

Individuals may get employment in any of the 
above trades, but there is no actual want of 
mechanics. Many leave here for the southern 
States and the western country. Men of this 
class of society may decidedly make themselves 



■APPAREL'. 



161 



extremely comfortable in this place. Those who 
are here, speaking generally, receive higher 
wages, are more independent of their masters, 
live better, have less anxiety for the morrow, 
drink more, and are less intelligent than men 
following the like occupations in England. 

PRICES OF WEARING APPAREL, &C. 

Shoes are 13s. 6d. to 15s. 9d. a pair ; Wel- 
lington boots, 38s. 3d. to 45s. ; Hessian ditto, 
42s. 9d. to 45s. ; jockey ditto, 67s. 6d. ; ladies' 
shoes, 4s. 6d. to 5s. 7JcL — the leather is not 
good ; upon a fair average* two pair of English 
will last as long as three pair of American ; the 
best beaver hats are 40s. 6d. •; superfine cloth 
coats, 81. Is. 6d. ; surtout ditto, 111. 5s. ; pan- 
taloons and trowsers, 45s. to 54s. ; waistcoats, 
27s. Clothes made of inferior materials, are 
from 25 to 50 per cent, lower. India and French 
silks, China crapes for ladies' dresses, and India 
handkerchiefs, are one half cheaper than in 
England. Other articles of wearing apparel, and 
almost every thing used in domestic economy, 
are of British manufacture. They pay an import 
duty of 25 per cent., and when retailed, are from 
25 to 100 per cent, dearer than in London. 

RELIGIOUS SECTS. 

g Having heard that American methodists 
were distinguished for an extreme degree of 



162 EBENEZER CHURCH. 

fanatical violence in their religious exercises, 
I visited the African church, (all houses of 
religious assembly being denominated churches,) 
in which were none but blacks; and in the 
evening, " Ebenezer Church," in which were 
only whites. As the latter possessed all the 
characteristics of the former, with considerable 
additions of its own, to that only it is necessary 
that I should call your attention. I went at 
8 o'clock in the evening. The door was locked; 
but the windows being open, I placed myself at 
one of them, and saw that the church within 
was crowded almost to suffocation. The preacher 
indulged in long pauses, and occasional loud 
elevations of voice, which were always answered 
by the audience with deep groans. When the 
prayer which followed the sermon had ended, 
the minister descended from the pulpit, the 
doors were thrown open, and a considerable 
number of the audience departed. Understand- 
ing however that something was yet to follow, 
with considerable difficulty I obtained admis- 
sion. The minister had departed, the doors were 
again closed, but about four hundred persons 
remained. One (apparently) of the leading mem- 
bers gave out a hymn, then a brother was 
called upon to pray : he roared and ranted 
like a maniac ; the male part of the audi- 
enqe groaned, the female shrieked ; a man 
sitting next to me shouted ; a youth stand- 



FANATICISM. 163 

ing before me continued for half >&n hour bawl- 
ingj " Oh Jssus L/come down, come down, 
" Jesus ! my dear Jesus, I see you ! bless me, 
" Jesus ! Oh ! oh ! oh ! Come down, Jesus !" 
A small space farther on, a girl about 11 years 
of age was in convulsions : an old woman, who 
I concluded was her mother, stood on the seat, 
holding her up in her arms, that her ecstasies 
might be visible to the whole assembly. In an- 
other place there was a convocation of holy 
sisters, sending forth most awful yells. A bro- 
ther now stood forward, stating, that " although 
" numbers had gone, he trusted the Lord would 
" that night work some signal favours among his 
" dear lambs." Two sisters advanced towards 
him, refusing to be comforted, " for the Lord was 
" with them:" another brother prayed — and an- 
other. " Brother Macfaddin" was now called upon, 
and he addressed them with a voice which might 
almost rival a peal of thunder, the whole congre- 
gation occasionally joining responsive to his notes., 
The madness now became threefold increased, 
and such a scene presented itself as 1 could never 
have pictured to my imagination, and as I trust, 
for the honour of true religion and of human 
nature, I shall never see again. Had the inha- 
bitants of Bedlam been let loose, they could not 
have exceeded it. From forty to fifty were 
praying aloud and extemporaneously at the same 
moment of time : some were kicking, many 

m 2 



164 



BLASPHEMY. 



jumping, all clapping their hands and crying 
out in chorus, " Glory 1 ! glory! glory ! Jesus 
" Christ is a very good friend ! Jesus Christ is 
" a very "good friend! Oh God! oh Jesus! 
" come down ! Glory ! glory ! glory ! thank you* 
" Jesus! thank you, God! Oh, Glory! glory! 
" glory ! ! !" Mere exhaustion of bodily strength 
produced a cessation of madness for a few 
minutes. A hymn was given out and sung \ 
praying then recommenced ; the scene of mad- 
ness was again acted, with, if possible, increased 
efforts on the part of the performers. One of 
the brothers prayed to be kept from enthusiasm! 
A girl of six years of age became the next ob- 
ject of attention. A reverend brother proclaimed 
that she " had just received a visit from the 
" Lord, and was in awful convulsions — so hard 
" was the working of the spirit!" This scene 
continued for some time ; but the audience gra- 
dually lessened, so that by ten o'clock the field 
of active operations was considerably contracted. 
The women, however, forming a compact co- 
lumn at the most distant corner of the church, 
continued their shriekings with but little abate- 
ment. Feeling disposed to get a nearer sight of 
the beings who sent forth such terrifying yells, 
I endeavoured to approach them, but was 
stopped by several of the brethren, who would 
not allow of a near approach towards the holy 
sisterhood. The novelty of this exhibition had* 



A FEMALE CONVERT. 16.5 

at first sight, rendered it a subject of amusement 
and interest ; but all such feelings soon gave 
way to an emotion of melancholy horror, when 
I considered the gloomy picture it represented 
of human nature, and called to mind that these 
maniacal fanatics were blaspheming the holy 
name of Christianity, and set so wjcked an 
example of religious blasphemy, besides libelling 
the name and character of revelation. 

I have since understood that one of the female 
converts upon this occasion had been turned 
away from her situation the previous evening for 
stealing iive dollars. 

A gentleman informed me that he was at 
" Ebenezer" a few days since, when the 
preacher stopped in the midst of his discourse, 
and directed those among his audience who were 
for King Jesus to stand up. Numbers of men 
and women immediately rose, shouting " I am 
" for Jesus," " I am for Jesus," " I am for 
" King Jesus." " Oh, that I could press him to 
" my bosom !" " There he comes." " I am for 
" King Jesus." I am informed that these exhibi- 
tions are neither singular in occurrence nor par* 
tial in extent, and feel at a loss to account for such 
fanatical enthusiasm in this country ; it is by no 
means an essential part of the creed of either 
Wesley or Whitfield ; and, in Great Britain, few 
bodies of men conduct their meetings with more 
m 3 



166 



ENTHUSIASM, 



order than the methodists* In Wales, I under- 
stand, and perhaps in some country parts of 
England, there may be occasional exhibitions 
of the same kind ; but they are of rare occur- 
rence, and comparatively moderate in their 
excesses. In Ireland I have also witnessed 
occasional violence ; but never any thing at all 
equal to that exhibited at " Ebenezer." In the 
latter country, too, we make some allowance for 
national character : they are all fire — all feeling ; 
but with Americans, whatever may be their ex- 
cellences or their defects, they are certainly not 
chargeable with possessing a superabundance of 
warm blood : they are, on the contrary, most re- 
markable for complete and general coldness of 
character and disposition* That, therefore, they 
should be enthusiastic, even in matters of reli- 
gion, would appear a matter of difficult solution. 
In the individuals, it would seem to burst forth 
upon prepared occasions, and to exist in com- 
mon with — perhaps actually to spring from 
a cold-blooded callousness of disposition. The 
general theory which attributes warmth of feel- 
ing to the fanatic is perhaps, after all, a false 
one* Who so bigoted, so exclusive, so illiberal 
towards others, so wholly devoid of every gene- 
rous sentiment? The extreme fanaticism of 
these maniacal saints may perhaps therefore 
actually spring from the absence of real enthu- 



SECTS. NEGROES. 1 67 

siasm, combined, of course, with gross and 
excessive ignorance. 

The sects of this city, and the number of their 
places of assembly, are as follow : 1 Swedish 
Lutheran, 3 Quakers, 1 Free ditto, or Whig 
Quakers, called also Fighting Quakers, 4 Epis- 
copalian, 4 Baptist, 5 Presbyterian, 4 Roman 
Catholic, 6 German Lutheran, 1 Moravian, 
1 Covenanters, 3 Methodists, 1 Universalist, 
1 Unitarian, 1 Independent, 1 Jews, 9, Black 
Methodist, and 1 Black Episcopalian. 

Religious controversy appears unknown. 
Every man is expected to choose one of these 
churches ; and when that is done, he must 
abide by it as solemnly and as regularly as he 
does his segar, his rum, and his business. What- 
ever degree of religious intelligence exists, is con- 
fined to the clergy ; who, perhaps, have lost nc ad- 
vantage by the abolition of a state-religion. 

ESTIMATION OF NEGROES. 

The three " African churches," as they are 
called, are for all those native Americans who 
are black, or have any shade of colour darker 
than white. These persons, though many of 
them are possessed of the rights of citizenship, 
are not admitted into the churches which are 
visited by whites. There exists a penal law, 
deeply written in the minds of the whole white 

m 4 



168. CLIMATE. 

population, which subjects their coloured fellow- 
citizens to unconditional contumely and never- 
ceasing insult. No respectability, however un- 
questionable, — no property, however large,— no 
character, however unblemished, — will gain a 
man, whose body is (in American estimation) 
cursed with even a twentieth portion of the 
blood of his African ancestry, admission into 
society ! ! ! They are considered as mere Pa- 
riahs — as outcasts and vagrants upon the face 
of the earth ! I make no reflection upon these 
things, but leave the facts for your consideration. 

CLIMATE, DISEASES, &C. 

Of the climate of this city I can say but little 
from personal observation. The weather, at pre- 
sent, is at once healthy and delightful ; the ther- 
mometer ranges from 56° to 70° ; the sky is per- 
fectly serene, and each day is as fine and clear 
as the preceding, forming a pleasing contrast 
to the humidity, and frequent changes of our 
island. The heats of summer, I am told, are 
excesive, while the colds of winter are equally 
in the extreme. Spring, in the European under- 
standing of that delightful season, there is none 
at all. If the appearance of the inhabitants be 
taken as a criterion, and if that appearance be 
not produced or aggravated by other causes, 
(such as excess or unhealthy practices of many 



DISEASES. 16$ 

kinds,) I should say that this climate is not so 
congenial to the well-being of the human con- 
stitution as that of England. A Philadelphian 
female is as old at twenty-seven as an English 
lady at forty. Neither sex possesses the English 
standard of health — a rosy cheek. The young 
females indeed are genteel, and generally pos- 
sessed of fine figures ; but their colour is pro- 
duced by art, for which disgusting practice, 
many of them might pass for beautiful. You 
will be surprised to hear, that in the practice of 
rougetng, the junior branches of the Society of 
Friends are not at all deficient ! Englishmen are 
said to improve in appearance for the first I£ 
months of their residence, but after that time, 
they become sallow and flabby. 

In estimating the character of the climate, as 
shown by the health of the inhabitants, it may 
be well to take into account, on the part of the 
females, the excessive use of stoves and want 
of exercise; on the part of the males, the 
constant use of rum and tobacco; and, with 
regard to both sexes, the early period of life at 
which the mass of the population enter into the 
marriage state. There are, at any rate, it has 
been observed, two things but rarely seen here — 
" good teeth" and " green old age." 

The leading class of diseases are inflam- 
matory. The yellow fever to any great or im- 
portant extent has not existed here for the last 



1 70 POOR-LAWS. POLICE. 

11 years : a few cases occur each year, both here 
and in the more northern cities. The average 
of deaths per day, during the present year, has 
been eight; which, with a city population of 
120,000, is not more in proportion than those of 
London and Paris. Superior medical aid is not 
cheaper than in London. 

PROVISIONS FOR THE POOR, POLICE, &C. 

The poor laws are administered by sixteen 
citizens, who are chosen annually by the cor« 
poration, to superintend the provision for the 
poor. They are empowered, with the appro- 
bation of four aldermen and two justices, to levy 
an assessment not exceeding, at any one time, 
100 cents (4s. 6d.) on 100 dollars (221. 10s.), 
or one per cent; nor more than three dollars 
per head, on every free man not otherwise 
rated. The average annual number of paupers 
supported in alms-houses of this city is 1600 ; the 
expence of keeping them 70,000 dollars a year ; 
the produce of the poor-tax for the city and 
county of Philadelphia 100,000 dollars. 

The police is strict, at least in some depart- 
ments. There are fourteen constables and two 
high constables, whose business it is to peram- 
bulate the streets, which they do with a mace 
in their hands, and to examine all suspicious 
looking persons. If such refuse to give a satis- 
factory account of themselves, they are taken 



STATE OF MORALS. I7I 

before the mayor. There are thirty-six watch- 
men who cry the hour (to imitate which, sub- 
jects the offender to immediate imprisonment), 
and six others who visit their boxes to see that 
they perform their duty. The whole are under 
the direction of a " captain," who attends to 
receive vagrants, rioters and thieves. Watch- 
men are paid fourteen dollars (63s.) per month, 
fourteen-pence extra for every lamp under their 
care, and are supplied with a great coat : they 
are fined for neglect of duty. The cost for 
lighting and watching Philadelphia is 25,000 
dollars per annum. I had intended saying some- 
thing concerning the heads of the police, but 
shall reserve my remarks for the next communi- 
cation. Circumstances have recently occurred, 
which, if true in all particulars, would prove 
the magistracy here to be as corrupt as that of 
London in the days of Fielding. 

MORALS, MANNERS, &C. 

Of the state of public morals, I find consider- 
able difficulty in forming my judgment. The 
habits of the people are marked by caution and 
secrecy. Although the eyes and ears of a 
stranger are not insulted in the openness of 
noon-day with evidence of hardened profligacy, 
I have, nevertheless, reason to believe in its ex- 
istence to a very great extent ; though perhaps 
there is no Philadelphia parent would say to me 



YJ'Q CLASSES OF SOCIETY. 

what a respectable inhabitant of New York 
did — " There is not a father in this city but 
" who is sorry that he has got a son." 

To classify the population of this city, I should 
only have to repeat what I have communicated 
concerning other parts of the Union. There 
is, of course, here no rank of society corre- 
spondent to the peerage, or the " haut-ton," in 
England; but there are many who keep car- 
riages, have truly elegant houses, and superb 
furniture. These are called of the " first class ;" 
and although they have not the pomp or the 
titles, they have the pride of an aristocracy. 
The small and middling tradesmen do not make 
much exertion, live easily, save no money, and 
appear to care nothing about either the present 
or future. If they find business getting bad, 
they do, what is called, " sell out," and pack up 
for the " back country." The labourer and 
mechanic are independent, not in purse, but in 
condition. Neither they nor their masters con- 
ceive that any obligation is conferred by em- 
ploying them. They live well, and may always 
have a dollar in their pockets. Men are here 
independent of each other : this will show it- 
self even in half an hour's walk through the 
streets of Philadelphia. 

The dress of the gentlemen is copied from the 
fashions of England; that of the ladies from 
France, — who very modestly believe, and indeed 
.14 



FEMALE VANITY. 173 

have no hesitation in declaring, that they com- 
bine the excellences of the French and the Eng- 
lish character, without possessing the defects of 
either. For myself, I can trace no resemblance 
to the former, unless it consist in kid gloves and 
artificial flowers ; nor to the latter, except in a 
fondness for Lady Morgan's writings, and an 
admiration of Lord Wellington's achievements. 
Could American ladies be content to despise 
instead of copying the vanity of their country- 
men, and take a few practical lessons from the 
English female in the management of domestic 
concerns, and the cultivation of their minds, 
then, indeed, their fine forms might become pecu- 
liarly interesting, — at least to the man of sense. 
— But I must turn to another subject. 

Being anxious to depart for the western coun- 
try before the season is too far advanced, I shall 
intrust this report to Captain Williams, of the 
Electra, who, I am persuaded, will take par- 
ticular care of, and deliver it safely upon his 

arrival. A letter to our friend M will 

go in the bag of the same ship, advising you of 
the present communication. Address to me at 
" Washington city," as I hope to be there in 
January, during the sitting of Congress, and 
after the completion of my western journey. 
To-morrow I intend leaving this city for Pitts- 
burgh. Mr. Mellish tells me that the road is 
very good. This has relieved my anxiety ; for 



174 EMIGRATION. 

the journey has been a source of very uneasy 
• anticipation. As usual, I suppose, I must say 
something in the way of advice. In my third 
Report I stated, that my feelings were gene- 
rally those of disappointment. My feelings (to 
use the same unphilosophical criterion) are now 
more favourable towards this country. Phila- 
delphia has done much towards raising America 
in my estimation. But I presume that none will 
come out until they hear from me again. Were I 
proceeding no farther than this city, and felt it 
necessary that I should make up my mind, for 
or against emigration, I should feel myself 
most aukwardly situated ; for although it occu- 
pies my attention at all times, I cannot make 
even an approach towards a decision. The ca- 
pitalist will receive in this State legal interest of 
six per cent. ; in the State of New York seven 
per cent I think that seven, or perhaps eight, 
might be made upon good security. Property 
of all kinds is selling every day at the Ex- 
change Coffee Rooms. There is not now any 
great scope for mercantile speculation. Lairds 
can be purchased, or new and large concerns 
established: but either of these would be ha- 
zardous. Capital is certainly wanted throughout 
the country. I think a brewery could be esta- 
blished with sound hopes of success, and not 
requiring more than from ten to fifteen thousand 
pounds. A London shopkeeper, with a capital 



AN ENGLISH CARPENTER. 1^5 

of from three to ten thousand pounds, and who 
could import his goods from the first markets, 
would I think succeed — not because there is a 
want of " dry good stores ;" for I believe one- 
half could be spared : but there is an ignorance 
of good principles of business ; and, I suspect, 
a very general deficiency of means. Lawyers, 
doctors, clerks, shopmen, literary men, artists, 
and schoolmasters, would, to use an American 
phrase, " come to a bad market." Mechanics 
can form their own judgment, from the state- 
ments in the preceding pages. Weavers, stock- 
ing-makers, and others, ac quainted only with the 
cotton, woollen, hardware, and linen manufac- 
tures, would find employment very difficult to 
obtain. A few evenings since I saw a carpenter 
and his wife, who have been here but one month, 
from Hull, in Yorkshire. The husband stated, 
that in England he earned 21s. per week ; that 
he now obtains 31s. 6d. ; that he finds great dif- 
ficulty in getting his money from his employer ; 
that, " taking one thing with another," the ex- 
pense of living is as nearly like that in England 
as possible ; that had he been acquainted with 
every thing which he at present knows, he 
would not have left home; but that, having 
done so, he is well satisfied ; and has now saved 
some money — a thing which he had hardly 
ever before effected. I state this man's infor- 
mation, because I consider it deserving of your 



1 76 AN ENGLISH CARPENTER. 

confidence. It is equally free from the wild 
rhapsodies of some persons, and the deplorable 
pictures which several Englishmen in this city, 
and in other parts of the Union, have given me 
of their disappointments, and of America, in 
'general. The carpenter's success is just what 
would attend any other industrious man of the 
same business, or of several others previously 
enumerated. His ideas of the difficulties which 
he had encountered are natural, as he has not 
been engaged sufficiently long in other pursuits 
to obliterate these impressions, Could I see 
him in twelve months from the present time, I 
think his condition would be, if I may judge 
from others, something like the following: — 
saved fourteen guineas ; living in two small 
rooms ; independent of his master, and his mas^- 
terofhimj thinks the Americans a very dirty 
and disagreeable people, and hates them from 
his soul ; would be delighted to see old England 
again, and smoke his pipe and drink his pint, 
and talk politics with the cobbler, and abuse the 
taxes j and then he remembers that he is in 
America, where he cannot endure the thoughts 
of having his bones buried ; thinks of returning 
to England, where his wife is also anxious to go, 
in order that she may drink tea and gossip with 
her old neighbours ; then they both conjure up 
their former sea sickness, their fear of being 
drowned, the money that their passage would 



EMIGRATION. 177 

cost, and that when they got to Hull, his most 
laborious application would not more than 
provide them with a bare existence. He then 
determines to remain in America, keep the 
money which he has saved, add as much more 
to it as he can, and make himself as contented 
and happy as lies in his power. 

The man of small property, who intends 
living upon the interest, and wants to remove 
to a cheaper country than England, should 
pause before the ^object of his choice be Ame- 
rica. From what I have seen of large towns, 
living is not, upon the whole, lower than in Eng- 
lish cities. In the interior it may be less than 
in the country parts of England. But such a 
man must, of necessity, have his ideas of hap- 
piness associated with many sources of comfort 
and gratification, which he would seek for in vain 
within the United States. 

In conclusion, I wish to express my anxious 
hopes that you are all well: and that whether 
we remain in England or settle in the New World, 
we may continue to possess, and to deserve, as 
great a portion of enjoyment as may be consist- 
ent with our improvement in the present state 
of our existence. 

P. S. Taxes are of trifling amount compared 
with the enormous drafts made upon you in that 
particular. A gentleman of this city, whose 



178 



TAXES. 



house is his own property, but which, if let, 
would be worth 1301. per annum, obliged me 
with his collector's receipts for three years. 



Mr. 



Dr. to Liberty Brown, collector, No. 



Chesnut-street, for taxes in Middle Ward, for 1813. 





City 


County 


Poor 


Health 






Tax. 


Tax. 


Tax. 


Tax. 


Total. 


d. c. 


d. c. 


d. c. 


d. c. 


d. c. 


House - 


18 12 


5 79 


8 70 


1 81 


34 42 


Poll-tax 


1 50 


75 


72 


28 


3 25 


Ground on which) 
the house stands J 


1 38 


45 


66 


14- 


2 63 


Water, to July 1814. 


- 


- 


- 


5 



Total amount, 45. dollars, 30 cents, or 101. 5s. 6d." 



" taxes for 1815. 





Dollars. 


Cents. 


City Tax 


19 


38 


Poor ditto 


10 


62 


County 


8 


19 


Dog 


* 


25 


Ground on 
stands 


which house ) « 


54 




Total 40 


98 or 91. 4s. 3d." 




" TAXES FOR 1816. 




Dollars. 


Cents. 


City Tax 


IS 


614 


Poor 


10 


62 


County 


8 


19 


Ground on 
stands 


which house ) ^ 


65f 


Water - 


5 







Total 45 


8 or 101. 4s. 6d/ 



TAXES. 179 

The following notice from the tax collectors 
is just published : 

" TAXES FOR' 1817. 

(e Notice is hereby given, that the taxes for 1817 are now 
(i due ; and the owners of property and other taxable inha- 
*' bitants of the city of Philadelphia, district of Southwark 
" and townships of Northern Liberties and Perm, are required 
" to call on the collectors hereafter named, and pay their 
" taxes, or the law will be enforced to compel payment* 
" The following extract from the collector's warrant, is 
" published for the information of those concerned. 

" < And if any person, charged in the said duplicate 
" « shall neglect or refuse to make payment within 30 days 
a ' from the time of the demand by you made, you are then 
(i * hereby authorized and required to levy the tax due by 
I' * such delinquent, by distress and sale of his goods and 
" « chattels, giving ten days' notice of such sale, by written 
" « or printed advertisements. And in case goods and chat- 
" « tels cannot be found sufficient to satisfy the same with 
" c costs, you are authorized and required to take the body 
" " of the said delinquent, and convey him to the gaol of the 
" < said county of Philadelphia, there to renr?io until the said 
" s tax with costs be paid or secured to be paid, or otherwise 
" * be discharged by the course of law. And hereby 
«? < fail not at your peril.' " 



K 2 



FIFTH REPORT. 



Leave Philadelphia for the Western country* — Pennsylvania 
Farms ; their Value. — Price of Stock ; of Labour. — 
Produce. — Soil. — Taverns. — Military. — Loudon. — 
Landlords; their Politics. — Allegany Mountains ; their 
Scenery. — Difficulty of crossing. — M i ConneVs Ville. — 

' Numerous Emigrants ; their Mode of travelling. — Soil 
and Productions of the Alleganies. — Character and Pur- 
suits of the People. — Crossing the River Juniatta. — Bad 
Stages. — Grensburgh. — Face of the Country towards 
Pittsburgh^ — Improved Condition of the Inhabitants.—- 
Pittsburgh. — Fine Situation. — Scenery. — Prices of Pro- 
visions ; of Labour: — Farming. — Produce. — Price of 
Stock. — General Expences. — Condition of a Pennsylvania. 
Farmer. — Coal. — Trades and Manufactures. — New 
Establishments likely to succeed. — Capital required. — 

- Rapid Increase of the Western Country. — Mode qf con- 
ducting Business. — Mechanics. — Theatre. — Population. 

— Young Watson. — Leave Pittsburgh. — State of Ohio k 

— Face of the Country, — Price of Lands. — State of Agri- 
cultural Knowledge. — Price of Labour. — Climate. — 
Wild Animals. — "Frolic.'' —Pursuits of Women. — 
Classes of Society. — Cincinnati. — Slavery. — Prices. — 
Rents. < — Trades. — Mechanics. — Want of Capital. — 
Manufactures. — State of Kentucky. — Price of Lands ; 
of Labour. — Slavery. — Rents. — Soil. — Produce. — 

Trades. Manifaetures. — Provisions. — Climate.— 

Health. — Middletown. — Louisville. — What Class of Emi- 
grants would succeed. — - Lord Selkirk. — Unfair Account 
ofMellishthe Traveller. — Illinois Territory. — Extent. — 
Face of the Country. — Navigable Waters. — First Inha- 
bitants. — Present Population. — Their Character and Con- 
dition, — Soil. — Produce. — Supposed Expence of erecting 
Houses. — Wild Animals. — Towns. — Considerations re- 
(juiring the attention of my Friends. 



PENNSYLVANIA FARMS. 181 

Shawnee Town, Illinois Territory, Kentucky, &c ; 
Dec. 1817. 

PENNSYLVANIA FARMS. 

October. — Left Philadelphia for Pittsburgh. 
Passed through an extensive, fertile, well-cul- 
tivated, and beautiful tract of land called the 
G ' Great Valley." Farms in this district are 
chiefly owned by Dutch and Germans, and 
their descendants. They consist of from 50 to 
•200 acres, each acre worth 200 dollars (451.), 
and are cheaper at that price than the 50 cent 
and dollar and half lands, which encumber other 
parts of the eastern States. The substantial 
barns, fine private dwellings, excellent breed 
and condition of live stock, and superior cultiVa- 
vation of the " Great Valley," place it decidedly 
in advance of the neighbouring lands, and 
put it fairly in competition with Old England. 
The proprietors are wealthy. They have the 
reputation of being practical opponents of the 
desolating system of paper money, by keeping 
their hard cash safely locked up in their ■-** old 
" country" boxes. Be this as it may, their pro- 
perty> unlike that of their fellow-citizens on the 
sea- side, has not vanished into air by the late 
mighty political changes. They have been 
blessed by Heaven with excellent land and good 
markets ; and although their progress in the. ac- 
i r ement of " this world's goods" has not been 

n 3 



182 AGRICULTURE. 

like the rise of Jonah's gourd, neither has it 
shared the fate of that transitory plant. 

There are good farms in other districts within 
20 miles of Philadelphia, which can be pur- 
chased at from 80 to 100 dollars per acre, build- 
ings included. Limestone land will sell for 
200 dollars. In a farm of £00 acres, the pro- 
portion may be estimated at 90 acres of plough- 
ing, 50 of meadow, 10 of orchard, and 50 of 
wood land. The latter, near the city, is worth 3 
to 400 dollars per acre. A farm of the above 
description is worth, if within five miles of the 
capital, 20,000 dollars ; at from 20 to 40 miles 5 
distance, 10,000 dollars. Uncleared lands, in 
remote parts of the State, vary in price from 
half a dollar to 20 dollars per acre. 

The Pennsylvanian horse is a medium between 
our saddle and heavy cart horses, and is well 
suited for most purposes. They are worth from 
50 to 150 dollars (111. 2s. 6d. to 331. 7s. 6'd.) 
A farm waggon will cost 100 to 120 dollars 
(221. 10s. to 2?1.) ; a family ditto, 70 to 90 dol- 
lars ; ditto with springs, 150 dollars j neat gig y 
300 ; best ditto, 450 ; a farm cart, 50 dollars. 
The annual expence of keeping a family waggon 
and horse is about 50 dollars. 

Well-improved land will produce, on an aver- 
age, 25 bushels of wheat per acre (a farmer with- 
in eight miles of the city has raised 40) \ ditto 
of Indian corn, 25 to 50. Wheat is sold at from 



MINERALS. — FARMERS. 183 

160 to 220 cents (7s. 8d. to 9s. lid.) per bushel ; 
Indian corn, 80 to 100 cents (3s. 7d. to 4s. 6d.) ; 
oats, 40 to 55 cents (Is. 9d. to 2s. 5jd.) : they 
are lighter than the English. Meadows are 
usually ploughed in rotation, and planted, with 
Indian corn. Orchards are also put under the 
plough, grain not being considered as injurious 
to the fruit. A good milch cow, four years old, is, 
worth 51. 13s. 6d. Sheep are much smaller than 
ours. Half-blood Merino are lis. 3d. : three- 
quarters blood, 13s. 6d. ; full ditto, 22s. 6d. j, 
rams are 41. 10s. to 111. 2s. 6d. ; pigs four weeks 
old are 2s. 3d. ; a, sow and ditto, 11. lis. 6d. to 
21. 14s. 5 a hog of 100 pounds, ll. lis. 6d. ta 
21. 5s. ; a yoke of oxen, 151. 15s. to 281. 10s. 

MINERALS. 

A copper and zinc mine is worked about 
twenty miles from Philadelphia. Iron ore 
abounds throughout the State. Bar iron sells 
for 120 dollars per ton. Limestone abounds 
at about fifteen miles from the city. There 
is also a coarse grey marble in large quantities : 
it is used for steps and chimney-pieces. The 
price delivered in Philadelphia is one dollar the 
cubic foot. 

The farmers in Pennsylvania are many of them 
rich : some reside in first-rate houses, and are 
possessed of most of the conveniences of life. 
Those remote from a market generally distil 

n 4 



184 FARMERS. 

their grain, finding whiskey to be the most con- 
venient and profitable form under which to carry 
and dispose of their stock. The great body of 
these men are Germans, or of German descent. 
They are excellent practical farmers, very in- 
dustrious, very mercenary, and very ignorant. 
The condition of the labourer is similar to that 
in other parts of the United States. 

The towns of Lancaster, Harrisburgh, and 
Carlisle, through which I passed, are all of them 
considerable in extent and in population. They 
each contain a large ; proportion of excellent 
brick buildings, and the usual erections of market 
houses, gaols, and churches y all evincing an ex- 
tent of national prosperity, and an advancement 
towards European establishments truly extraor- 
dinary, when we recollect that this is a country 
which may be said to Jbe but of yesterday. 
The German character is very prevalent through- 
out this State. The original language is still 
preserved, and there are even native Pennsylva- 
nians who cannot speak the English language. 

Arrived at ■, Chambersburgh, 157 miles from 
Philadelphia, I went to the inn where the stages 
from Baltimore and Philadelphia to Pittsburgh 
usually stop. These stages are two days in ar- 
riving here from the latter, and one from the 
former city. I secured a place, for which I paid 
14 dollars (three guineas), distance 140 miles. 
This town contains about 240 houses of all 



MR. FLOWER. 185 

sorts, two or three churches, a gaol and court- 
house. 

October. — The stage started at three o'clock 
in the morning. A Mr. Flower, connected with 
Mr.Birkbeck, left Chambersburgh a few days 
previous, on his return from Illinois to Eng- 
land. What his views of this country are I have 
not learned, though I should conclude, from the 
reported statements of an acquaintance, with 
whom he conversed at Chambersburgh, that his 
estimation of America is highly favourable. 

Arrived' at eight o'clock at Loudon, at the 
foot of the north mountain, one of the Allegany 
ridges. There are here 17 log and 20 frame or 
brick houses. We were not allowed to break- 
fast at the tavern in this town, as one of the pro- 
prietors of the coach had a house at M'ConnePs 
Ville. The tavern at Loudon is cheerless and 
dirty : a number of waggoners were breakfast- 
ing. The election was a topic of violent de- 
bate; bets, and as a usual accompaniment, 
choler, ran high. We brought the latest intelli- 
gence of the returns. All had their hopes and 
fears. The landlord, who is of Dutch descent, 
was, as a matter of course, a Hiesterite, because 
he was descended from a countryman. The 
Irish party, for similar reasons, supported 
Findlay. We were saluted by each at our de- 
parture, " Huzza for Hiester !" " Huzza for 
" Findlay!" My fellow-travellers were citizens 



IS6 ELECTION.— WAGGONS. 

of the world : they huzzaed for each with true 
philanthropic liberality. The final return 
throughout the State elected Mr. Findlay with 
a majority of 7,000. I counted thirty regular 
stage- waggons engaged in the transportation of 
goods to and from Pittsburgh. They are drawn 
by four strong well-fed horses, are made upon 
the model of English waggons, but about one- 
third less in size. They are from 20 to 35 
days in effecting their journey. The articles 
sent from Philadelphia are hardware, and what 
are denominated " dry goods." This term in- 
cludes all articles of woollen, linen, cotton, and 
silk. Those returned from Pittsburgh are farm- 
ing produce, chiefly flour. It is necessary to 
understand that the road I am travelling is the 
only trading waggon route to the whole western 
country. This circumstance being taken into 
consideration, in addition to the fact that there 
is no water carriage, the number of convey- 
ances, though great, is by no means extraor- 
dinary. 

Proceeded up the north mountain, over a 
most excellent piece of road, which is part of 
the new national turnpike, proposed to extend 
from the head of the Potowmac to Wheeling, 
and when completed will be of immense import- 
ance to the western country, and indeed the 
whole Union, the connection of the old and new 
sections being at present materially impeded 



GRAND PROSPECT* 187 

by excessively bad roads. At 11 o'clock, when 
near the summit of the mountain, we enjoyed a 
most extensive view of a large and beautiful 
valley, which must contain tens of thousands of 
acres that have not yet known the hand of the 
cultivator. The prospect, combining some grand 
mountain scenery, was the most magnificent I 
had ever beheld. The interest of the scene 
was also not a little heightened by the prospect 
of M'Connel's Ville, which we were approaching,, 
This apparently delightful little town appeared 
secluded from the rest of the world, and one 
might have imagined it another Eden, cut off 
by means of woods and trackless wilds, and 
mountain snows, from the vices and the corrup- 
tions which, in every other quarter, visit and 
torment mankind. — But this is merely reverie. 
We entered the town, proceeded to the tavern, 
where we breakfasted, and a nearer inspection 
showed every thing around us to be merely 
human. 

M«ConnePs Ville contains 40 houses, chiefly 
log. — Beef is now 10 cents a pound (oid.); some- 
times it is only 7 (3|d.) ; mutton is not con- 
sumed : fowls are 6s. 9d. per dozen ; charge 
for breakfast, 2s. 3d. — Passed several travellers 
on foot from Massachusetts, going with an in- 
tention of viewing the western country, and, if 
satisfied, of selecting a settlement previous to 
the emigration of their families: they fairly 



188 EMIGRATION WAGGONS. 

excelled our stage in expedition. Came up with 
20 small family waggons; two of these were 
broken down, and the horses of all in very bad 
condition; they were chiefly from Massachusetts, 
Jersey, and Connecticut. One of these was the 
joint property of a Dutch and an American family. 
My companions seemed to know at first sight, 
from what State the emigrants travelled. The 
New Englanders were evidently better fitted for 
the great and unavoidable fatigues of removal, 
than the natives of Jersey and Maryland. I 
thought I could even discover in the white in- 
habitants the effects of residing in free and 
in slave States. The genuine Yankies (New 
Englanders) are ignorant of slavery ; they have 
been ' necessitated to labour with their own 
hands ; they have not been demoralized by fa- 
miliarity with a system that establishes a barrier 
between fellow-beings on account of their colour; 
they have not been taught that because their 
neighbour's face was (to use their own phrase) 
a grade darker than their own, he was there- 
fore of an inferior species (as I am sorry to see 
contended for even by Mr. Jefferson); they have 
relied on their own resources, and the conse- 
quence is, that they are more enterprising, more 
healthy, more enlightened, and altogether better 
suited to cultivate the wilderness with success, 
than their slave-holding neighbours. Even the 
women from New England were walking before 

8 



FAMILIES OF EMIGRANTS. 18g 

their waggons, while the others were either riding 
or lagging behind. 

These emigrants preferred travelling in com- 
panies, forming a oneness of interest, and 
securing an interchange of assistance when 
necessary. In difficult parts of this tract their 
progress was so slow as to be hardly perceiv- 
able. Ropes were attached to each side of the 
waggons, at which, while some were pulling, 
others were most unmercifully, though neces- 
sarily, whipping the horses, which dragged the 
waggons five yards at an effort. The getting 
these waggons and families over the mountains 
appeared little less than a continuance of mira- 
cles. I was prepared to expect much, but the 
reality has increased my ideas of the difficulty 
of this emigration a thousand fold. 

Crossed the Juniatta — arrived at Dickenson's 
Tavern -r- proceeded to Bloody-run, where we 
arrived at half-past eleven, excessively fatigued 
— charge for supper and bed 4s. 6d. In the 
latter part of this stage nothing could exceed 
the badness of the roads ; yet the understanding 
between the driver and horses was so perfect, 
that we proceeded, though with almost broken 
bones, with the exactness of mechanism. A 
London coachman would in half an hour have 
dashed the strongest English stage to pieces, 
and probably broken the necks of his passengers. 



190 BAD ROADS. 

Second day. — Started at three o'clock in the 
morning: thermometer ten degrees above zero : 
at nine arrived at Bedford, were we were not 
allowed to breakfast, as a stage-proprietor lived 
farther on. We all crossed over to the orchard of 
a farm house and stole some frozen apples, which 
our keen appetites caused us to enjoy. — Passed 
over the Dry Ridge, upon which were great 
numbers of family and stage waggons : some of 
the former were from the district of Maine, and 
had been out 80 days. The progress of our 
stage was so slow and so painful, that I preferred 
walking : this afforded me an opportunity of 
entering into the views and little histories of 
fellow-travellers* No person here need feel back- 
ward in asking questions, and all answer without 
hesitation or reserve. The women I found the 
most communicative : their husbands being 
chiefly engaged in dragging along their wretched 
nags. The first I conversed with was from Jer- 
sey, out S°2 days : she was sitting upon a log, 
which served for the double purpose of a seat and 
a fire : their waggon had broken down the day 
before ; her husband was with it at a distant black- 
smith's : she had been seated there all night : her 
last words went to my heart : " Ah ! Sir, I wish 
" to God we had never left home." 

The view from the summit of Dry Ridge 
even exceeds the one before described. The 



EMIGRANTS. — SCENERY. 191 

scenery is bolder, and marked with a character 
of increased magnificence. The eye takes in at 
one glance, the various ridges called the South, 
the Blue, the Cove, and the more extended 
chain, peculiarly denominated the Allegany. 
The calm serenity of the numerous valleys 
formed a pleasing contrast with the more stu* 
pendous works of nature with which we were 
so profusely surrounded. Although there is. 
here much barren country, there is a good 
deal of fine fertile land. The most prevalent 
trees are the beech, black, red, and white oaks. 
Clay slate appears, thus far, to characterise 
these mountains. — We continued to overtake 
emigrants' waggons from Maryland, Jersey, 
Pennsylvania, Connecticut, Massachusets, and 
district of Maine. One of the families was that 
of the brother-in-law and sister of Captain Riley, 
whose work, detailing his shipwreck and conse- 
quent captivity in Africa, has been reprinted in 
England, and attracted such general and well- 
deserved attention. This family were in great 
distress. 

At five o'clock in the evening we reached 
the top of the Alleganies. Our stage was far 
behind. This day I had walked about sixteen 
miles ; and, as was the case the day before, we 
were not allowed to stop for dinner, there being 
no coach proprietor upon the road. " The 
" Fountain Inn" is a miserable log-house, or what 



19£ RUM ANI> WHISKEY FEED. 

you would call a dog-hole : it was crowded with 
emigrants. I asked for something to eat, but 
could only obtain for answer, " I guess whis- 
" key is all the feed we have on sale." I have 
met with several similar instances, when I have 
asked, " Have you any meat ?" " No." — 
" Either cold or hot will make no difference to 
" me." " I guess I don't know." — " Have 
" you any fowls ?" " No." — " Fish?" " No." 
~ * Ham ?" « No." — " Bread ?" " No." — 
« Cheese ?" * No. — " Crackers (biscuits) ?" 
" No." — "I will pay you any price you 
" -please." " I guess we have only rum and 
" whiskey feed." 

The character of the mountain inhabitants 
appears cold, friendless, unfeeling, callous, and 
selfish. All the emigrants with whom I con- 
versed complained of the enormous charges at 
taverns. Log- houses are the only habitations 
for many miles. They are formed of the trunks 
of trees, about twenty feet in length, and 
six inches in diameter, cut at the ends, and 
placed upon each other. The roof is framed 
in a similar manner. In some houses there are 
windows j in others the door performs a double 
office. The chimney is erected outside, and in 
a similar manner to the body of the house. 
Some have clay in their chimneys, which is a 
precaution very necessary in these western 
palaces. In some the space between the logs 



LOG HOUSES. 193 

remains open; in others it is filled with clay. 
The hinges are generally wood. Locks are not 
used. In some there are two apartments; in 
others but one, for all the various operations of 
cooking, eating, sleeping, and, upon great occa- 
sions, washing. The pigs also come in for their 
due share of the log residence. — By eleven 
o'clock at night we safely arrived at Somerset, 
237 miles from Philadelphia. 

Started at 3 o'clock on our third day's jour- 
ney : thermometer 6 above zero. — Crossed 
Laurel Hill. A family from Massachusetts had 
" camped out" during the night. At five 
o'clock we found them cooking potatoes for 
breakfast : they very freely offered us a por- 
tion of their homely fare. Perhaps in Essex 
I should have thought this no treat — on 
Laurel Ridge it was a most acceptable one ; 
so naturally does our inclination adapt itself 
to our circumstances. This family consisted 
of ten persons: an old lady, her son and 
his wife, with seven children, of both sexes, 
from two to sixteen years of age ; all in ex- 
cellent health, and full of life and spirits ; 
despising difficulties, and anticipating a rich 
reward when they arrived in the " land of 
" Canaan." 

The vegetation on this ridge appears superior 
to that of the Allegany: it is considered to 
take its name from the calmia latifolia, which 

o 



19^ ALLEGANY MOUNTAINS. 

grows here profusely. The mountain called 
Little Chesnut Ridge, succeeds that of Laurel 
Hill, the difficulties of the road increasing; 
though those which we experienced were " light 
" as air," compared with those which fc the poor 
families were exposed to. The inconveniences 
of travelling principally arise, not from the mere 
height of these mountains, but from the abun- 
dance of enormous stones and of mud-holes. 
The road is not turnpike after the small space 
described previous to arriving at M'Connel's 
Ville. The trees on Chesnut Ridge are chiefly 
oak and chesnut: the soil appears chalky. 
This morning, after a walk of four hours, we 
halted for the coach to come up ; though the 
pain of riding exceeded the fatigue of walking, 
yet the having it as a place of final resort was 
desirable: it refreshed us by varying the weari- 
ness of our bodies. At half-past ten at night 
w r e arrived at Greensburgh, a town only 36 miles 
from Pittsburgh. I was delighted with the near 
prospect of a few days' cessation from fatigue. 

Started, the fourth day, at four o'clock in the 
morning, with the high treat of a turnpike-road ; 
but the advantages arising from this were but of 
short continuance. We had to descend Turtle 
Creek Hill, which, in consequence of recent 
rains, had become, if possible, even worse than 
Laurel Hill. We all got out, and, up to our 
knees in mud, took our turns in holding up the 



Coal. — emigrants. 195 

stage. This tract bore decided evidence of 
being imbedded with coal. At the foot of the 
hill I came up with a woman and girl, with two 
infants in their arms, who came, to use their 
own language, " from Zomersetshire in Hing- 
" land." Collecting from ^ remarks that I 
had been in their cou r s y spoke of it 

with heartfelt attachm^ 71'ry that they 

had ever been p^ it ; they had 

been told that' ..rst place in the 

world, but the e* . experienced nothing but 
difficulties since they had set their foot upon it. 
The husband was behind, dragging on their little 
all. It was 4£ days since they had left Phila- 
delphia. I assisted them over a brook, and en- 
deavoured to comfort them with the hopes that 
when they once got settled they would be well 
repaid for all their toil. 

Passed through M'Nair's Town, a new log 
settlement ; also Eastern Liberty Town, con- 
taining some brick-houses, an hotel, and a large 
steam grist-mill. At two o'clock we arrived at 
Hunter's hotel in Pittsburgh. The town was 
enveloped in smoke. The condition of the 
people from Chambersburgh to Greensburgh is 
that of an absence of wealth and of the con- 
veniences of life, with, however, the means of 
obtaining a sufficient quantity of food. Their 
habitations, in our ideas, are extremely wretched; 
but in theirs* the contrary. The blacksmith and 

o 2 



196 NUMBER OF EMIGRANTS. 

the tavern-keeper are almost the only occupa- 
tions : the former earns from 20s. 6cL to 27s. 
per week : the profits of the latter must be 
great, judging from the high charges and bad 
quality. From Greensburgh to Pittsburgh, the 
improvement, ir ^he and quality of the houses 9 
is evident ; anr* dtivation and condition of 

the land are r ior, Many places bear 

the evident u h ; the criterion 

for ascertaining \v._ 's country, very 

tangible. Recurring to ** v ^jlan of estima- 

tion, I passed on my road from Chambersburgh 
to Pittsburgh, being 153 miles, one hundred and 
three stage- waggons, drawn by four, and six 
horses, proceeding from Philadelphia and Balti- 
more to Pittsburgh, — seventy-nine from Pitts- 
burgh to Baltimore and Philadelphia, — sixty- 
three waggons, with families, from the several 
places following : — twenty from Massachusetts, 
— ten from the district of Maine, — fourteen 
from Jersey, — thirteen from Connecticut, — 
two from Maryland, — one from Pennsylvania, — - 
one from England, — one from Holland, — and 
one from Ireland ; about two hundred persons 
onhorseback, — twenty on foot, — one beggar, 
one family, with their waggon, returning from 
Cincinnati, entirely disappointed — a circum- 
stance which, though rare, is by no means, as 
some might suppose, miraculous. 
nt 



PITTSBURGH. 197 

PITTSBURGH. 

Pittsburgh is, in several points of view, a most 
interesting town ; from its natural situation, being 
at the termination of two, and the commence- 
ment of a third river, which has a direct commu- 
nication with the ocean, though at the almost 
incredible distance of °2500 miles ; its scenery, 
which is truly picturesque ; its exhaustless pos- 
session of that first-rate material for manu- 
factories, coal ; its original situation as an early 
military post, ?iici remarkable for two defeats 
of the British, more especially that of General 
Bradock by the French and Indians, in which 
the great Washington first distinguished himself^ 
though but a youth and only a militia colonel y 
and lastly, its present importance as being the 
connecting link between new and old America ; 
and though it is not at present a " Birming- 
" ham," as the natives bombastically call it, 
yet it certainly coutains the seeds of numerous 
important manufactories. The published ac- 
counts of this city are so exaggerated and out 
of all reason, that strangers are usually disap- 
pointed on visiting it. This* however, was not 
my case. I have been in some measure tu- 
tored in American gasconade. When I am told 
that at a particular hotel there is handsome 
accommodation, I expect that they are one 
remove from very bad; if " elegant entertain- 
ment," I anticipate tolerable; if a person is 

o a 



198 FARMING. 

" actoraan," that he is not absolutely a fool 5 
and if a manufactory is the "first in the world" 
I expect, and have generally found, about six 
men and three boys employed. 

PRICES. 

Beef and mutton are 3d. to 4Jd. per pound f 
pork 4|d. to 5d. ; cheese, 9±d. to 14d. ; butter, 
lOd. to 20d.; tea, 6s. 9d. to 12s. 4d. 5 moist 
sugar, 13M. ; loaf, 20d. to 2s. Id. ; coffee, 20d. ; 
potatoes, 2s. 3d. to 3s. 4id. p'fc bushel ; porter, 
6|d. per quart; fowls, 13£d. each ; ducks, 20d. \ 
geese, 2s. 3d. to 3s. 4|d. \ turkeys, 3s. 4id. to 
5s. 8d. ; flour, 27s. to 31s. 6d. per barrel of 196 
pounds ; coal, 4d. per bushel. Mechanic's 
board, 15s. 9d. to 18s. per week. 

FARMING. 

Agricultural produce finds here a ready and 
an advantageous market. Farming, in this neigh- 
bourhood, is not the most profitable mode of 
employing capital ; but it is here, as in all other 
parts of the Union, an independent mode of 
life* The farmer must labour hard with his 
own hands. The u help" which he pays for will 
be dear, and not of that kind to be relied on, in 
the mode of its execution, as in England. This 
may not proceed from a worse state of character, 
but a difference in condition, as compared with 
QUr working class. They are paid about fourteen 



PRICES. 199 

dollars per month, and board. In many instances 
they expect to sit down with the master, to live as 
well, and to be upon terms of equality with every 
branch of the family ; and if this should be 
departed from, the scythe anid the sickle will be 
laid down in the midst of harvest. There is 
a class of men throughout the western country 
called " merchants," who, in the summer and 
autumn months, collect flour, butter, cheese, 
pork, beef, whiskey, and every species of farm^ 
ing produce, which they send in flats and keek 
boats to the New Orleans market. The demand 
created by this trade, added to a large domestic 
consumption, insures the most remote farmer a 
certain market. Some of these speculators have 
made large fortunes. 

Land in the neighbourhood of Pittsburgh m 
worth 100 dollars per acre. At a distance of 
from five to twenty miles, tracts of from 100 ta 
500 acres, containing meadow, pasturage, arable,, 
and part covered with wood,' have been recently 
sold at from 20 to 50 dollars per acre. Wheat brings 
a dollar a bushel ; Indian corn, 75 cents a bushel. 
A four year old cart-horse is worth from 20 to 30 
dollars; a gig ditto, 50 to 100; a saddle ditto, 
20 to 150 * ; a farmer's waggon, 100 dollars ; 

* A common mode of selling horses is for the owner to 
gallop through the street, announcing the amount of his last 
bidding. I have witnessed several crying out, " twentyvfive 
" dollars?' " twenty-five dollars" u twenty-five dollars;"* 

o 4 



200 BUILDING. — COAL. 

a family ditto, from 50 to 70 ; cart, 50. An ac- 
quaintance of mine, from Derbyshire, gave yes- 
terday for a cow with a calf by her side, twenty- 
five dollars. Sheep are from one to three dollars ; 
live hogs from 2|d. to 4Jd. a pound; a good 
roasting pig 4s. 6d. Wool is but little in demand 

since the termination of the war. Mr. , 

of Lexington, has informed me that he pur- 
poses making a shipment of it for Liverpool ; 
should this succeed, it will open a new source of 
profit to the western farmer. Clean Merino is 
worth here 5s. 8d. to 6s. 9d. per pound; fleece, 
3s. 5d. ; half-bred, 2s. 3d. ; quarter, 21 d. A brick 
house, two stories high, containing ten rooms, 
may be built, with good management, in the 
country for 4000 dollars (9001.), as the bricks, 
can be made upon the land, and the " help" 
boarded in the house. In towns, a similar build- 
ing will cost 6000 dollars (13501.), exclusive of 
the ground, which, in particular situations, as of 
all towns that promise well, is dearer than the 
most choice spot in the city of London I 

COAL. 

In the coal hills which I have visited, the 
mineral is found in a horizontal position, lying 



and after half an hour's exercise, they have been transferred, 
saddle, bridle, and all, to a new bidder, for twenty-five 
dollars, fifty sants. 



HEALTH AT PITTSBURGH. 201 

at present above level. It is worked by adits or 
openings into the side of the hills, which draw 
off the water. The stream being boarded over, 
the coal is wheeled out in barrows, and tripped 
from an overhanging stage into one-horse wag- 
gons. The waggons are without wheels, and the 
horses, if blind, are preferred, the hills being so 
steep, that in case of the least start, nothing can 
save them from destruction. Labourers earn in 
the coal excavations 31s. 6d. to 40s. 6d. per week, 
— If the inhabitants of Pittsburgh are deter- 
mined to caJl that place after some English town, 
I should propose that, instead of the " American 
Birmingham/' it be denominated, with relation 
to the humidity of its climate, " the American 
Manchester;" for I remained at this place 
several days, during which time the rain never 
ceased. The smoke is also extreme, giving to 
the town and its inhabitants a very sombre aspect ; 
but an English medical gentleman who has re- 
sided here some years, informs me that there is 
not a more healthy place in the United States. 
The diseases are bilious remittent fevers ; rheu- 
matic among the aged ; a few cases of broncho- 
cele which affects the theroid gland of females ; 
and inflammatory sore-throat in wet weather. 
Medical aid is easy of attainment, though not 
always of the most valuable kind. There is of 
doctors, as of lawyers, too large a supply, and 
of course many of them very inefficient. A 



^02 TRADES AND MANUFACTORIES. 

physician here is also a surgeon — prepares hig 
own medicines, and practises in every depart- 
ment of the profession ; — generally they are 
neither so well educated, nor in such respectable 
circumstances as our medical men. 

TRADES AND MANUFACTORIES. 

The manufacturing interest of Pittsburgh is 
that of the United States. Many of the manu- 
factories originated during the late war, and all 
of them flourished during its continuance. At 
present they are generally upon the wane. A 
document was issued from their committee last 
year, setting forth their distress in the strongest 
language — from which it would appear to equal 
that of our manufacturing classes, even during 
the worst period of their sufferings. 

Mr. Ephraim Portland, the prothonotary of 
this town, favoured me with the following list of 
manufactories up to last January, published by 
the authority of the committee. Mr. P. is a 
gentleman of information, and to whom I am 
personally indebted for much liberal and kind 
attention. 



TRADES AND MAUFACTORIES. 



203 



MANUFACTORIES in and near the city of Pittsburgh. 
in the State of Pennsylvania, in the year 1817. 







Number 




Manufacturers. 




of Men 
employed. 


Yearly 
Amount. 








Dollars. 


1 Augur-maker 
1 Bellows- maker 


. 


6 


3,500 


. 


3 


10,000 


18 Blacksmiths - 


- 


74 


75,100 


3 Brewers - 


- 


17 


72,000 


8 Brush-makers 


- 


7 


8,600 


1 Button-maker 


- 


6 


6,250 


2 Cotton-spinners and carders 


- 


36 


25,518 


11 Copper-smiths and tin-pla 
workers - 


'") 


100 


200,000 


7 Cabinet-makers - , 




43 


40,000 


1 Currier - 


- 


4 


12,000 


2 Cutlers 


- 


6 


2,400 


4 Iron-founders i 


- 


87 


180,000 


3 Gun-smiths, and bridlebit-makers 


14 


13,800 


2 Flint-glass manufacturers 


- 


82 


110,000 


3 Green (window) ditto 


- 


92 


130,000 


2 Hardware - 


- 


17 


18,000 


7 Hatters 


- 


49 


44,640 


1 Lock-smith - 


- 


7 


12,000 


1 Linen - 


- 


20 


25,000 


7 Nail - - 


- 


47 


174,716 


1 Paper - 


- 


40 . 


23,000 


1 Pattern - 


- 


21 


1,500 


3 Plane .... 


. 


6 


57,600 


1 Patten 


- 


' 5 


8,000 


1 Rope manufacturer 


- 


8 


15,000 


1 Spinning machine - 


- 


6 


6,000 


1 Spanish Brown 


- 


2 


6,720 


1 Silver plater - 




40 


20,000 


2 Steam-engine-makers 


- 


70 


125,000 


6 Saddlers 


. 


60 


86,000 


5 Silver-smiths and watch-menders 


17 


12,000 


14< Shoe and boot 


. 


109 


120,000 


7 Tanners and curriers 


- 


47 


58,800 


4 Tallow-chandlers - 


- 


7 


32,600 


4 Tobacconists 


- 


28 


21,000 


5 Waggon -makers 


- 


21 


28,500 


2 Weavers - - , 


„ 


9 


14,562 


3 Windsor Chair 


. 


23 


42,600 


2 Woollen 


. 


30 


17,000 


1 Wire-drawer - 


. 


12 


6,000 


1 White Lead - 


- 


6 


40,000 


Total number of workmen, 1280.- 


—Ditto, a 


mount 


1,896,396 Dollars. 







£04 REFLECTIONS. 

Some of the above manufactories may be de- 
nominated first-rate. This remark applies par- 
ticularly to the nail, steam-engine (high- pres- 
sure), and glass establishments. I was astonished 
to witness such perfection on this side of the 
Atlantic, and especially in that part of America 
which a New Yorker supposes to be at the far- 
ther end of the world. 

At Messrs. Page and Bake well's glass ware- 
house I saw chandeliers and numerous articles 
in cut glass of a very splendid description; 
among the latter was a pair of decanters, cut 
from a London pattern, the price of which will 
be eight guineas. It is well to bear in mind that 
the demand for these articles of elegant luxury 
lies in the Western States ! the inhabitants of 
Eastern America being still importers from the 
" Old Country." What interesting themes of 
reflection are offered by such facts to the philo- 
sopher as well as to the politician ! Not thirty 
years since the whole right bank of the Ohio 
was termed the " Indian side." Spots in Te- 
nesse, in Ohio and Kentucky, that within the 
life-time of even young men, witnessed only the 
arrow and the scalping-knife, now present to 
the traveller articles of elegance and modes of 
luxury which might rival the displays of London 
and Paris, while within the last half century, 
the beasts of the forest, and man more savage 
than the beast, were the only inhabitants of 
the whole of that immense tract peculiarly de- 



STATE OF TRADE. 205 

nominated the "Western Country:" which is 
now partially inhabited, and promises soon to 
be generally so by man — civilized man, pos- 
sessed of the arts and the pursuits of civilized 
life. It is already the refuge of the oppressed from 
every other nation. May it become the seat of 
enlightenment, of private virtue and public liber- 
ty ; and it may then, but not till then, expect to 
rank among the greatest, the most powerful, and 
the most respected of the nations of the earth ! 

The rapid and unexampled progress of this 
country, presents a valuable and an extraor- 
dinary political lesson to the world at large. It 
shows us what a nation [may become when the 
principles of its government are cheap and liberal, 
when its resources are called forth, and its 
powers expanded by the means of a system eman- 
ating from the people, and not repressed by esta- 
blishments whose only recommendation is their 
antiquity, nor compelled to contribute towards the 
support of a system which deprives them of the 
legitimate reward of their industry. — But to re- 
turn to less speculative and more practical detail. 

The state of trade is at present dull ; but that 
thereis a great deal of business done must be 
evident from the quantity oi' " dry goods" and 
" grocery stores," many of the proprietors of 
which have stocks as large as the majority of 
London retail dealers. They are literally stuffed 
with goods of English manufacture, consisting 



206 ENGLISH GOODS. — RENTS. 

of articles of the most varied kind, from a man's 
coat or lady's gown, down to a whip or an 
oyster knife. Rents, of course, vary according 
to situation : houses in the best stands for busi- 
ness are from 400 to 800 dollars per annum ; 
others are from 150 to 350; — two rooms, or a 
very small house a short distance from town, 
would be 80 dollars per annum. 

It is difficult to form a judgment whether 
there is an opening in any of the present esta- 
blished businesses. One fact strongly in favour 
of the stability of this town is, that there has not 
been a bankruptcy in it for three years ! ! ! a sin- 
gular contrast this with New York, in which 
the last published list of insolvents contained 
upwards of 400 names. 

Should the establishment of cotton, linen, 
or woollen manufactories, be thought desirable, 
the want of machinists, such as you have in 
England, would be a most material consider- 
ation. Persons with such knowledge, and ca- 
pable of repairing, as well as making every part 
of the machinery, would be necessary ; and also 
the constant personal attendance of the pro- 
prietor would be indispensable. 

I should have sanguine hopes of the success 
of an extensive coarse pottery. The freight, 
carriage, and other expences attending the im- 
port of such articles from England to Pittsburgh 
is now from 100 to 200 per cent. Some are of 



GRUMBLERS. 20? 

opinion that a slate quarry may be found three 
miles from hence ; if so, and there were capital 
and skill engaged, it would prove a fortune. The 
trade of slating must be united with that of 
quarrying the material. — Houses are now roofed 
with shingles, which are d'angerous, and not 
cheap. 

Establishments might be advantageously made, 
in which the following articles would be of pri- 
mary importance: coal, casting sands of every 
sort, all kinds of clays, every species of plaster 
of Paris, of lime, of iron, and of ochres, as 
they are not difficult of obtainment in Pitts- 
burgh. •■ — Lead is brought from Louisiana, and 
copper from South America. 

Understanding that mechanics in every occu- 
pation met at " Carey's Porter-house," I went 
there several times for the purpose of obtaining 
information. I found them chiefly English, and 
all discontented with America. One remark 
made by the leading grumbler, deserves attention. 
It was elicited by the spirit of opposition. His 
friend, a stone-mason, said that there was " no- 

" thing in America but d d Yankies and 

" rogues, and that it was not fit for a dog to live 
" in ;" — " Aye, aye, Bob ; you forget that you 
" were starving in England. Say what you will, 
" this, after all, is the poor man's country — 
it is the poor man's country, Bob." — " Yes ; 
it may be well enough for getting pork and 



<< 



208 WAGES. 

" whiskey, and wages, and all that; but curse 
" the country ; it would be a good country 
" enough if it was free from dirty, cheating 
" Yankies." 

WAGES, &C 

Taylors earn from 31s. 6d. to 45s. per week, 
are now well employed; carpenter 31s. 6d. to 
40s. 6d., dull ; baker, 31s. 6d. to 40s. 6d., dull ; 
mason, 34s. to 45s., brisk ; shoemaker, 31s. 6d. 
to 36s., brisk ; blacksmith, 31s. 6d. to 36s., dull ; 
tinman, from 36s. to 45s., dull ; printer, from 
31s. 6d. to 36s., dull ; weaver, no employ- 
ment ; glass-blower, 31s. 6d. to 45s., dull ; glass- 
cutter, 31s. 6d. to 67s. 6d., dull ; hatter, 31s. 6d. 
to 45s., brisk; brewer, 36s., dull; nail-cutter, 
31s. 6d. to 36s. brisk. 

I omitted mentioning that I conceive a brew- 
ery, upon an extensive scale, with adequate ca- 
pital and skill, would succeed extremely well. 
There are at present three in the business in 
Pittsburgh, and none of them sell good beer. 
The mode is similar to that pursued by Messrs. 
— , in London. The erection, or pur- 
chase of an establishment, in which there should 
be a steam-engine, with a malt-house and other 
buildings, would require a capital of not more 
than from 7 to 15,000. 

Bottled porter is an article in considerable 
demand by the emigrants, nearly all of whom 



THEATRE, £09 

take shipping for the more western States, at 
this place. The use of malt liquors is increasing 
in all parts of America. Porter in Pittsburgh is 
eight dollars per barrel, and 6jd* per quart. 

THEATRE. 

i The play of e< Hamlet," and the farce of 
* c Turn Out/' were acted the evening after my 
arrival. Upon either I have nothing particular 
to observe. The acting was equal to the au- 
dience, perhaps superior. A son of the cele- 
brated Lewis performed Horatio : he was dead 
drunk, and extremely dirty. Mrs. Entwistle's 
acting in the farce, could scarcely have been 
exceeded by that of Mrs* Davison. Between 
the acts, two boys, not 14 years of age, were 
very solemnly discussing what the profits of 
the house would be monthly, if that night 
could be taken as an average. From this they 
took a view of what interest the house paid to 
its owner. Their calculations were made with 
the precision of state financiers, and their conclu- 
sions drawn with the gravity of sages. After a 
long dispute, whether the interest were 8 J, or 
81- per cent, they determined that the theatre 
was good property. This occurrence is in per- 
fect accordance with national character. Gain 
is the education — the morals, the politics, the 
theology, and stands in the stead of the domestic 

comfort of all ages and classes of Americans ; it 

p 



£10 HAMLET TRAVESTIE. 

is the centre of their system, from which they 
derive both light and heat. 

A few days after the performance of Hamlet, 
Mr. Entwistle, the manager, had for his benefit, 
that irresistibly amusing burlesque, <s Hamlet 
" Travestie." His line of acting is a broad-farce 
caricature of that of Liston. He personated the 
modern Danish prince. The audience were 
solemn, serious, and dull. The affecting en- 
trance of the deranged Ophelia, who, instead of 
rosemary, rue, &c. had an ample supply of 
turnips and carrots, did not move a muscle 
of ftieir intelligent faces — the ladies, indeed, 
excepted, who evinced by the frequent use of 
their pocket handkerchiefs, that their sympa- 
thies were engaged on the side of the love-sick 
maiden. Some who had seen the original 
Hamlet for the first time a few evenings before, 
gave vent to their criticisms when the curtain 
fell. They thought Mr. Entwistle did not look 
sufficiently grave \ and that, as it was his benefit, 
he acted very dishonourably in shaving (cheating) 
them out of two acts ; for that they guessed when 
Mr. Hutton played that * ere king's mad son, he 

gave them five acts for their dollar. Mr. 

(one of the actors) assured me that on the fol- 
lowing morning, a respectable lawyer of Pitts- 
burgh met him, and said, " I was at the play last 
" night, Sir, and do not think that Mr. Entwistle 
" acted Hamlet quite so well as Mr. Hutton." 



YOUNG WATSON. &il 

Upon the whole* I consider Pittsburgh, in 
v very point of view, to be a very important 
town; and have no doubt, although its pros- 
perity is now at a stand* and property if not 
declining-, is not increasing in value, that it will 
gradually advance ; and that the time must come 
when it will be an extensive and very populous 
city. The present population is 10,000, made 
up from all nations, and, of course, not free 
from the vices of each : this indeed is but too 
apparent upon a very short residence. 

A day previous to my departure from Pitts- 
burgh, I called at Carey's Porter-house : Mr. C. 
stepped forward, and pointing with his hand to 
a young man, said, " Mr. Watson, Sir.'* For 
some minutes I did not comprehend his mean- 
ing. The person to whom he directed my 
attention sat in a corner — silent, serious, and 
indifferent : he was short in stature and mean 
in appearance* Guess my surprise when I was 
informed that this Mr. Watson was no other 
than Young Watson ; he, concerning whom, 
for some months, our whole country was in 
a general ferment. I felt some curiosity to 
know the history of a person so singularly 
thrust into premature importance. His appear- 
ance greatly disappointed me, not on account 
of the poverty of his dress, for that 1 presume re- 
sults at present from circumstances beyond his 
controul $ but I had imagined Young Watson to 

p 2 



9\°l YOUNG WATSON. 

be a daring, bold, enthusiastic, indiscreet young 
man. He does not seem, however, possessed of 
any one of these qualities : he is reserved, not 
from constraint, but habit, and habit of a kind 
that more bespeaks an absence of talent than 
the attendant of mind. The ship Venus, in 
which he went passenger, was hauled to off 
Dover. Two Bow-street officers went on board, 
having certain information that he was there. 
His face was painted ; he had on a farmer's 
frock coat, stuffed ; shoes without heels, looked 
stouter, shorter, and younger than described 
in the proclamation. He went on deck upon 
knowing that officers were looking for him* 
When he was standing by their side, Miss Wilson, 
a cabin passenger, fainted. Lavender, ignorant 
qf his person, told him to take care of the lady ; — 
examined the trunks of all the passengers, not 
excepting that of Watson, who continued sup- 
porting Miss Wilson. The officers did not believe 
but that he was on board, their information being 
positive \ they at length whispered to each other 
in his hearing, " he is not here ;" — they de- 
parted ; — the ship got under weigh ; — he con- 
versed with all concerning Young Watson. — 
Upon arriving in America, Mr. Busby, son of 
Dr. Busby, who was a cabin passenger, enquired 
of an Englishman in New York, if young Wat- 
son was in America ; being answered in the 
affirmative, he asked by what ship. " The Ye- 



YOUNG WATSON, £13 

ic nus." " No, that is impossible, for 1 came in 
" the Venus." — iX He certainly came in the 
" Venus." " Under what name ?" — " Thomas 
" Pearson." " Oh, I, know the boy Pearson 
" very well, we used to call him the proud 
6< farmer." He has got a situation in a school 
and receives 501. per annum ; is little known 
and less regarded. Americans who have heard 
of him either care nothing about or despise him 
for the political part which he has taken : in 
these few lines you have the particulars of a 
young man who has excited in no small degree 
the public attention. He did not express the 
least gratitude for the extraordinary assistance 
which, I presume, he must have received. I 
asked myself during his conversation, is it pos- 
sible that this is an individual, one of the fore- 
most among those, to guard against whose mighty 
machinations, ministers suspended the birthright 
of Englishmen? But, however, so it was ; and 
in this person we have by no means a novel in- 
stance of inexperience combined with fanaticism; 
neither of which qualities would perhaps ever 
have been called into action had it not been for 
the existence of an order of things which de- 
prives a considerable portion of our population 
of the actual necessaries of life. 

STATE OF OHIO. 

Left Pittsburgh for Ohio — the State in which 
every emigrant I saw on the Alleganies told me 

p S 



*J214 STATE OF OHIO. 

lie designed settling ; while there the inhabitants 
are on u the move" for Alabama and Missouri. 
Emigration in this country is always in motion^ 
and for ever changing in the points of its attrac- 
tion. The usual mode of travelling hence is to 
float down the river, as being the easiest, most 
economical* and most expeditious. The land 
route is the most desirable for seeing the 
country and people. 1 am now fairly entered 
upon the western country ; a tract which 
geographers tell us contains fifteen hundred 
thousand square miles* fifty thousand miles of 
Internal navigation, one hundred thousand of 
river coast, with an endless intersection of rivers 
communicating with each other* To the con- 
templative politician this presents a magnificent 
spectacle ; such an one must feel equally anxious 
that this almost boundless theatre for human 
exertion may neither be polluted by political in- 
stitutions, pernicious and destructive in their 
own nature, nor present to the world the mockery 
of the best theoretical principles, which, while 
apparently possessed by the people, are virtually 
destroyed by an iniquitous perversion of their 
spirit. —~ But leaving general views of politics, I 
pass on to the particulars of the State of Ohio, 
and shall detain you with but little of minute 
description until my arrival at Cincinnati, a 
town which possesses all the "features common 
to the principal towns of this State, 



TAXES. 215 

The face of the country is an uninterrupted 
level. Many of those tracts of land which 
would be desirable for our settlement, should 
we become agriculturists, are pre-occupied, and 
cannot be bought without an advance which I 
think disproportionate to their actual value. 
The agent at the land-office informs me that 
there ^are still for sale one million of acres 
of United States' land, at two dollars per acre, or 
one dollar and sixty-four cents for prompt pay- 
ment. In all the States there are government 
reservation lands: these are generally in the 
most choice situations. Some such tracts have 
been sold in the wild state, in Tenesse, at the 
last auction, for the large sum of 38 dollars per 
acre ! 

Taxes on wild land are, on first-rate 2 dol- 
lars per hundred acres; \\ dollar on second- 
rate ; one dollar on third-rate. There is also a 
county-tax of half the above amounts, as the case 
may be. These taxes of 6s. 9d. to 13s. 6d. on an 
hundred acres are certainly very small, at least 
with our English ideas of taxation and of pro- 
duce ; yet you would be astonished to witness the 
numerous lots of lands which are sold at auction 
in all the States on account of non-payment of 
taxes. I have seen lists in the newspapers, and 
at the taverns, which could not contain less in 
each than four hundred names of defaulters, 
p 4 



£16 IMPROVED FARMS. 

whose property was to be transferred to the 
highest bidder. 

X have been offered a lot of six thousand acres 
on the Little Miami, by Mr. — — — , who is re- 
moving to Alabama : the terms are not particu- 
larly objectionable. Perhaps this would suit us j 
at least if I do not see any thing more desir- 
able further west. 

The section of country bounding on the Ohio 
river, from °25 miles on either side of Cincin- 
nati, and extending back about 100 miles di- 
rectly north, to the late Indian boundary 
line, (which according to treaty, was extin- 
guished a few days since,) is generally an ex- 
cellent body of land, and is well settled,, 
though but small improvements are yet made^ 
except in a few particular, places near towns- 
The land is closely timbered, except near the 
head waters of the two Miamis, where there is a 
beautiful champaign country. The prairies, or 
natural meadows, are here of considerable ex- 
tent. Grazing is the chief occupation of the 
inhabitants. The price of land varies very much, 
according to situatipn and the proximity of town- 
ships. Farms which are called improved can be 
bought at from 8 to 30 dollars per acre : the 
improvements often consist of the erection of 
rough log buildings, and about from 12 to 20 
acres under middling cultivation. Buildings are 
included in the price per acre. The next class 



PRAIRIES. 217 

of farms have from 20 to 50 acres under cultiva- 
tion : the proportion of arable and wood is about 
two-thirds, of meadow and pasturage nearly 
equal proportions. Any of the land is here ca- 
pable, by culture, of being turned into meadow. 
The Miamis are navigable in the spring and 
autumn. Limestone abounds ; coal and iron 
have not yet been discovered, except in the 
eastern part of the State. Wheat sells now in 
the Chillicothe and Cincinnati markets for 
3s. 4|d. per bushel 5 rye, 2s. 8Jd. ; Indian corn ? 
2s. 3d. 

There are large prairies in Ross county, on 
the north branch of Paint Creek, near Chilli- 
cothe ; these prairies are from five to eight miles 
square : in them there is not a shrub to be seen. 
They produce a grass growing thick, and about 
four feet high, which makes excellent fodder-: it 
is similar to Massachusetts upland grass, and is 
there called English hay. These prairies are 
filled with herds of cattle fattening for the Balti- 
more and Philadelphia markets, which are sold 
in this State, on the hoof, for about 3 dollars per 
hundred weight. The chief expence of pastur- 
age consists in a man's wages to look after the 
herds, twice a week, giving them salt, &c. 

The principal towns are situated on the banks 
of rivers. There are no canals, and indeed 
not much occasion for them, the whole State 
abounding with rivers and creeks, which empty 



218 TREES, &C. OF OHIO^ 

themselves into the Ohio river : produce is con- 
veyed with little expence by this means, during 
the freshets, or rise of the waters. 

The trees produced by the best class of land 
are honey -locust, black walnut, and beach ; — 
by second quality, sugar-tree, sycamore or butter- 
wood, and white-wood, used for building and 
joiners' work ;• — the third quality produces oak. 
Throughout this State there is but little under 
or brush-wood, caused, I presume, by the height 
and spreading tops of the trees, which prevent 
the sun penetrating to the ground, and nourish- 
ing inferior articles of vegetation. Wood for 
firing is sold in the towns at from 1 \ to 3 dollars 
per cord (equal in consumption to half a chal- 
dron of coals). 

The yearly wages, I am informed, of a labour- 
ing man, is from 581. 10s. to 65 L : of a woman, 
311. 10s. 

With regard to the seasons, they are said to 
have severe winters of from three to four 
months, with a keen dry air, and cloudless sky y 
during summer excessive heat, (thermometer in 
the shade, 80° to 96°,) with heavy dews at night ; 
springs, cold and heavy rains; autumns, fine, 
followed by " Indian summer," which is truly de- 
lightful. This I have experienced, and can say 
that until now I never knew what really fine 
weather was. Along the route I have travelled*, 
in this State, there is scarcely an elevation which 



MINERALS* £19 

can be called a hill, with exception of slight 
bluffs on the margin of rivers. The dreary 
monotony of limited views of such endless 
uniformity produces sensations of the most de- 
pressing melancholy. The atmosphere, after a 
hot day, causes head-aches ? which frequently 
terminate in an intermittent fever. A man's 
being sick, (the term applied to every species of 
illness,) is as common in this country, as being in 
distress is in England. In regard to healthiness 
of situation, there is considerable variety, as the 
appearance of the inhabitants will in some mea- 
sure indicate ; though as a general character- 
istic, I would say, there is a want of sound 
regular health. The people are of a tall, vanity 
aspect, and seem, even during their most active 
occupations, to be the victims of fever and 
ague. 

Of the existence of minerals, and to what ex- 
tent and variety, at present but little is known * 
Judging from the beds of the rivers, and quality 
of the water, I should presume that coal must 
be abundant. Salt is found in several situations, 
particularly on the Kenhaway. The common 
order of the strata is — first sand-stone, then 
lime-stone, argillaceous schist, and coal. The 
wild animals are neither numerous nor trouble- 
some ; though the wolf and the squirrel are still 
depredators : but the sport afforded in capturing 
them, and the addition which the flesh of the 



220 A FROLIC. 

decay in from eight to twelve years,) stones, and 
latter makes to the family stock of provisions, 
compensate for their lawless invasions of the 
rights of property. 

Land is sometimes partially cleared, by what is 
rather ludicrously termed a frolic. A man having 
purchased a quarter, or half section, for the pur- 
pose of settling down, his neighbours assemble 
upon an appointed day : one cuts the trees ; a 
second lops them ; a third drags them to the 
spot upon which a log mansion is to be erected ; 
others cross the logs, roof the habitation, and in 
three days the emigrant has a " house over his 
" head :" — thus ends the American frolic. The 
raising of food is the next point with the new 
settler: in this he must rely upon his own re- 
sources. If he be strong-handed, (has property,) 
he has the trees felled, about one foot from the 
earth, dragged into heaps, and made into an 
immense bonfire. Should he be weak-handed, 
(poor,) he is compelled to be content with what 
is termed girdling ; which consists in cutting the 
bark, thereby, of course killing the trees ; and 
he afterwards clears away the underwood, which 
is seldom considerable. These preliminary oper- 
ations being effected, according to either mode, 
grain is sown, and the produce reaped with a 
fruitfulness of production, and a dexterity truly 
extraordinary, considering that these oper- 
ations are carried on amidst stumps, (which 



CLASSES OF SOCIETY. 2°2l 

surrounded by entire trees. The beauty of an 
Indian corn crop cannot be exceeded. When 
cut and carried home, the neighbours assemble 
to assist in husking; this is called a husking 
frolic. In some parts of the country the term 
frolic admits of a different application ; — the 
religious females present their minister with a 
variety of gifts, each according to their taste 
or means : some send a coat, others a hat, 
and some r goose. They are invited to the 
preacher's house, to partake of a supper, as a 
return for their liberality : this is termed a knit- 
ting frolic. Very little agricultural labour is 
performed by women. The slender means of 
many settlers not enabling them to purchase 
British goods at the high price at which they 
are sold, the females are therefore chiefly em- 
ployed in making articles of domestic cloth- 
ing. 

The interior population may perhaps be 
divided into three classes : First, the squatter, 
or man who " sets himself down/' upon land 
which is not his owp, and for which he pays 
nothing ; cultivates a sufficient extent to supply 
himself and family with the necessaries of life ; 
remains until he is dissatisfied with his choice ; — 
has realized a sufficiency to become a land- 
owner ; — or is expelled by the real proprietor. 
Second, the small farmer who has recently emi- 
grated, had barely sufficient to pay the first 



222 CLASSES OF SOCIETY. 

instalment for his 80 or 160 acres of two dollar 
land ; cultivates, or what he calls improves, ten 
to thirty acres ; raises a sufficient " feed" for 
his family ; has the females of it employed in 
making or patching the wretched clothing of the 
whoje domestic circle 5 is in a condition which, 
if compelled by legislative acts, or by external force, 
to endure, would be considered truly wretched; 
but from being his own master, having made his 
own choice, from the having " no one to make 
" him afraid," joined with the consciousness 
that, though slowly, he is regularly advancing 
towards wealth ; the breath of complaint is sel- 
dom heard to escape from his lips. Third, the 
wealthy or " strong-handed" farmer, who owns 
from five to twelve hundred acres, has one-fourth 
to one-third under cultivation, of a kind much 
superior to the former \ raises live stock for the 
home, and Atlantic-city markets \ sends beef, 
pork, cheese, lard, and butter to New Orleans ; 
is perhaps a legislator, at any rate a squire 
(magistrate) ; is always a man of plain business- 
like sense, though not in possession, nor desirous 
o€ a very cultivated intellect ; understands his 
own interest, and that of his country; lives in 
sufficient affluence, and is possessed of comfort, 
according to the American acceptation of the 
term, but to which we " old country" folks must 
feel inclined to take an exception : but in con- 
clusion, and a most important conclusion it is, 



CINCINNATI. ' 223 

a number of this class of men were, ten or 
fifteen years ago, inhabitants of the eastern 
States, and not worth, upon their arrival in 
Ohio, twenty dollars. 

Well-prepared land in this State produces, per 
acre, 30 bushels of wheat ; 50 to 75, of Indian 
corn ; 50 to 7#> of rye. Horses are worth from 
40 to 100 dollars (91. to °2°2\. 10s.) Cows, (four 
years old,) 12 to 20 dollars (54s. to 90s.) 

The management of farms is full a century 
behind that of England, there being here a 
want of improved machinery for the promotion 
of economy in time and labour, and no regular 
attention to the condition of live stock, while the 
mode of culture in general appears slovenly and 
unsystematic. Cows are milked sometimes twice, 
sometimes once a day : at others four times a 
week. Barns are erections which you would not 
know by that name, and which must materially 
deteriorate the annual receipts > — upon the 
whole, Bowles's rude but delightful picture of 
" The Farm Yard " would be as unintelligible to 
an Ohian, as it is to the Cockney, whose ideas 
of a country life are limited to a Sunday's 
excursion to Chak-farm and Highbury-barn. 

CINCINNATI. 

My arrival in the interesting town of Cincin- 
nati was at 10 o'clock at night. I put up at the 
Cincinnati hotel, on the banks of the Ohio, 



%%4s SLAVES. 

When I had remained here half an hour, the 
bar-keeper informed me that all their beds were 
engaged. This, at so late a period in the evening, 
and with the rain pouring in torrents, was not the 
most agreeable reception, particularly as I had 
not rested upon a bed for the four previous nights, 
A gentleman whom I had seen when in Pennsyl- 
vania endeavoured to procure me a share in that 
of his friend, his own being already doubly en- 
gaged. The negotiation failing, I applied to 
the bar-keeper to be allowed to remain in the 
house, though without a bed. To this he 
assented, and placing some chairs against the 
wall, with saddle-bags for my pillow, I enjoyed 
a comfortable night's rest. 

Many persons in this State have coloured 
people, which they call their 'property. The 
mode in which they effect this perpetuation of 
slavery, in violation of the spirit of the Ohio 
constitution, is to purchase blacks, and have 
them apprenticed to them. Some are so base as 
to take these negroes down the river at the ap- 
proach of the expiration of their apprenticeship, 
and sell them at Natchez for life ! 

Yet the first article of the Ohio constitution ' 
is, " All men are born equally free and inde- 
pendent." 

PRICES. 

I visited the public market before the sun 
had appeared above the horizon. The whole 

lit 



prices. 225 

town presented a scene of life and activity* 
The market-house is an excellent building, and 
under judicious regulations; but the supply on 
this occasion was neither various nor profuse. 
Beef and mutton are from 2d. to 3Jd. per 
pound ; veal, 4d. ; pork, 2|d. to 4|d. ; potatoes, 
2s. 3d. a bushel ; flour, 27s. a barrel of 196 
pound; fowls, lOd. each; geese, 2s. 3d. each ; 
turkeys, 3s. 4§d. to 4s. 6d. ; moist sugar, 13d. a 
pound ; loaf ditto, 20d. ; porter, 27s. to 31s. 6d. 
per barrel of 32 gallons, 6jd. per quart ; cider, 
lis- 3d. per barrel; gin, 5s. 7id. per gallon; 
whiskey, 2s. 8d. ; brandy, 13s. 6d. to 18s. ; rum, 
lis. 3d.; shoes, 13s. 6d. to 15s. 9d. per pair; 
Wellington boots, 36s. to 40s. 6d. ; Hessian ditto, 
49s. 6d. to 54s. ; superfine blue cloth, 21. 18s. 6d, 
to 3l.7s.6d. per yard; making a coat, 27s.; super- 
fine hats, of American manufacture, 31s. 6d. to 
45s. ; rent of two small rooms, 181. per annum ; 
ditto, of a small house in a third or fourth rate 
situation, from 331. 15s. to 67I. 10s. The general 
average of houses, in good business situations, is 
from 901. to 1371. 10s. per annum : taxes trifling, 
indeed 1 could not ascertain their amount ; a 
good evidence that they cannot be oppressive* 
Women-servants are paid 20s. 3d. to 29s. 3d. per 
month ; men ditto, 63s. to 72s. Mechanic's board 
and lodging per week, 13s. 6d. ; respectable ditto, 
18s. to 22s. 6d, ; ditto at the best inns, 31s. 6d. 
to 47s. 3d. These charges are enormously dis- 



c 2%6 TRADES. 

proportionate to the rate of provisions } although 
large rents, dear clothing, and high price of 
labour, are items of no small importance in the 
hotel and boarding-house keepers' calculations, 
and for which allowances should fairly be made. 
The wages of mechanics, in all trades suited to 
the present condition of the country, vary from 
06s. to 45s. per week. Taylors, shoemakers, 
carpenters, blacksmiths, masons, and saddlers 
are at present good businesses ; these I would 
distinguish by denominating first-rate ; tinmen, 
bakers, and hatters, second-rate ; printers, 
third-rate ; for the weaver there is no employ- 
ment. A watchmaker, as such7 could not ob- 
tain a subsistence, watches not being manu- 
factured in America ; such a mechanic pos- 
sibly could get a living by mending watches, and 
attending to every department of silversmiths 5 
work. It is thought there is an opening for a 
dyer, there being but one in the town, — an old 
woman. 

You are aware of the sudden rise and im- 
provement of this place ; the present population 
is said to be 10,000 ; though Mr. Williams, 
editor of " the Western Spy," told me that he 
considers it does not exceed eight, including 
blacks, who are rather numerous. The town 
s built upon the model of Philadelphia ; and 
should it ever become as large, which I think 
not improbable, its whole appearance will be 



EDUCATION. 227 

more pleasing. There are rive churches be- 
longing to Methodists, Episcopalians, Presby- 
terians, Quakers, and Baptists: two others, 
large in size, and handsome in appearance, 
are now erecting. 

EDUCATION. 

The School-house, when the whole plan is 
completed, will be a fine and extensive structure. 
In the first apartment, on the ground-floor, 
the Lancasterian plan is already in successful 
operation : I counted 150 scholars, among whom 
were children of the most respectable persons 
in the town ; or, to use an American phrase, 
" of the first standing." This school-house is, 
like most establishments in this country — a 
joint stock concern. The terms for education, 
in the Lancasterian department, are, to share- 
holders, lis. 3d. per quarter; others, 13s.,6d. 
There are in the same building three other 
departments (not Lancasterian); two for instruc- 
tion in history, geography, and the classics ; 
and the superior department for teaching lan- 
guages. Males and females are taught in the 
same rooms, but sit on opposite sides. The 
terms for the historical, &c. department are — 
to share-holders, 22s. 6d. per quarter ; others, 
27s. : there were present 21 males and 19 females. 
In the department of languages, the charge is 
— to share-holders, 36s. per quarter ; others, 45s. 

q 2 



228 NEWSPAPERS* 

Teachers are paid a yearly salary by the com- 
pany : these men are, I believe, New Englanders, 
as are the schoolmasters in the western country 
generally. 

I also visited a poor half-starved civil school- 
master : he has two miserable rooms, for which 
he pays 22s. 6d. per month : the number of 
scholars, both male and female, is 28 : the terms 
for all branches 13s. 6d. per quarter : he com- 
plains of great difficulty in getting paid 5 and 
also of the untameable insubordination of his 
scholars. The superintendant of the Lancas- 
trian school informs me, that they could not 
attempt to put in practice the greater part of 
the punishments as directed by the founder of 
that system. 

newspapers. 

This town produces two newspapers, " The 
" Western Spy," and " Liberty Hall." The 
impression of each is said to be 1200 per week. 
As the terms upon which they are sold are an 
index to the want of capital, though not of pro- 
perty, in this country, I extract the following 
statements verbatim from the XlVth volume of 
« Liberty Hall," Nov. 10. I8I7. 

" The price of this paper is three dollars and fifty cents 
" for 52 numbers ; but which may be discharged by the 
" payment of three dollars xvithbi the year, or two dollars 
" and fifty cents in advance. 



NEWSPAPERS. Q%9 

«* Subscribers must pay the postage of their papers. 

u Payments in advance being to the mutual interest qfb otli 
<l parties, that mode is solicited. 

" A failure to notify a discontinuance at the expiration of 
£i the time subscribed for, will be considered a new engage* 
<l ment. 

" When Subscribers wish to discontinue, all arrearages 
** must first be paid. 

" Letters to the Editors must be post-paid. 

" Terms of advertising : 12 lines, or less, for three 
*' insertions, one dollar : each continuance 25 cents. 

" Longer advertisements in the same proportion. 

" When a customer's advertising amounts, in the course 
of a year to $ 12 and not exceeding $ 25, a deduction of 
" 20 per cent, will be made; and 25 per cent, on all sums 
*« above $ 25. 

Terms from the " White Water Gazette." 

" Wheat, Rye, Corn, Oats, Whiskey, Pork, Bacon, 
" Sugar, Linen, Flax, Feathers, Wool, Beeswax, Tallow, 
* Candles, Furs, Rags, or CASH {notes,) at market prices, 
" and delivered at such places as may be agreed upon, will 
** be taken in payment for subscriptions." 

The type and general execution of the above- 
named papers are superior to those of Philadel- 
phia ; but, in common with all American news- 
papers, they are extremely uninteresting, relying 
almost entirely for matter upon advertisements 
and English news, the latter being always made 
their leading article. From the paper mentioned 
above (" Liberty Hall"), and of the same date, 
I take the following, which is a fair sample of 
the general contents of every news publication 
in the United States : 

Q S 



'230 SPECIMEN OF NEWS. 

LATEST FROM ENGLAND. 

New York, Oct. 22. 

" By the schooner Weymouth, Benedict, in 33 days 
" from Liverpool, the Editors of the Mercantile Advertiser 
" received, at a late hour last evening, the papers of that 
" place to the 17th, London to the 15th ; and by the Maria 
" Theresa, from Havre, French papers to the 13th ultimo, 
" all inclusive. T* hey contain no news of moment. 

" Accounts from Ireland state, that the typhus fever had 
" begun to subside. 

" The Prince Regent was landed at Brighton on the 13th, 
" having been at sea four days and three nights, during 
" which time he visited the coast of France. 

" Mrs. Cobbett, with her two sons and three daughters, 
" sailed from Liverpool, on the 16th, in the Aurora, for 
" New York. 

"The papers speak of the universal revival of trade in all 
" parts of the kingdom, and particularly of the rise of cotton 
" and linen goods. 

** Paris papers to the 13th contain nothing of interest. 
" Desbands and Chayoux, who plotted the assassination of 
" Monsieur and son, had been shot in tke plain of Grenoble. 

tl Lord Wellington had been non-suited in his prosecu- 
" tion of the printer of the Ghent Journal, and adjudged to 
«' pay the costs. It is said the duke had appealed from this 
" decision." 

TRADE AND MANUEACTURES. 

The woollen manufactory, the steam grist- 
mill, and a glass-house, are on a tolerably large 
scale : the two former are said not to pay the 
proprietors. In the main street, English goods 
abound in tts great profusion as in Cheapside. A 
first-rate shop sells every thing ; keeps a stock 
of from 20 to 30,000 dollars ; annual returns may 



TRADE. 231 

be 50,000 dollars, upon half of which they give 
from 6 to 18 months' credit. Some of their goods 
they import direct from England, but more com- 
monly purchase at Philadelphia - y their journey 
for which purpose, to and from that city, occu* 
pies them three months : goods average 50 days 
in arriving. A house at Pittsburgh advances 
money in payment of carriage, and attends to 
the receipt of the goods by waggon and their 
shipment by boats, for which the dealer here 
pays 5 per cent, commission. The credit which 
they receive at Philadelphia is from six to seven 
months, but they can seldom pay at the speci- 
fied time, and are then charged 7 per cent, 
interest. Shopkeeping has been very profitable, 
but it certainly is now very much over-done : 
all complain that trade is extremely dull. I re- 
mark what appears to me an universal and most 
important error in all the stores — too large a 
stock : by this means tradesmen, in every coun- 
try, are exposed to lose as much as by bad 
debts. I find much difficulty in deciding whe- 
ther any manufactures in which our Yorkshire 
and Leicestershire friends could engage would 
be successful : English ascendancy is so strongly 
established, that America must be tributary for 
many years to our country. Some of the best- 
informed inhabitants are of opinion that cotton, 
woollen, linen, and stocking-making would suc- 
ceed, if large capital, with competent and varied 
q 4 



23°2 IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. 

skill, were employed ; but in these opinions I 
place little confidence. 

The imports are — nearly every description 
of English goods, and some French and India : 
these are received via New Orleans, Baltimore, 
or Philadelphia; chiefly the two latter cities. 
The exports are flour, beef, pork, and butter. 
The town contains two chartered banks and one 
unchartered, all in respectable credit ; a branch 
of " The United States' Bank" is also just esta- 
blished there ; the paper money system has gone 
beyond all bounds throughout the western coun- 
try. Specie of the smallest amount is rarely to be 
seen, and the little which does exist is chiefly cut 
Spanish dollars, which are divided into bits of 
50, 25, and X%\ cents. Notes of 3td., 6|d., 13d. 
and 2s. 2d. are very common ; indeed they con- 
stitute an important part of the circulating 
medium. I purchased Cincinnati notes in Pitts- 
burgh at 5 per cent, discount, and Louisville 
notes at 7»« This does not proceed from want of 
faith in those banks, nor are the latter esteemed 
less safe than the former : the increase of dis- 
count arises from Louisville being 150 miles 
farther distant. The same principle applies to 
every other town, and operates vice versa upon 
Pittsburgh. The paper of banks which are not 
chartered, or which are deficient in reputation, 
can be bought at similar distances from the place 
of its first circulation, at from 10 to 40 per cent. 



PAPER MONEY. 238 

discount : had I sufficiently understood this trade 
when I landed in America, I think I could have 
nearly paid my expences by merely buying in 
one town the notes of that to which I was 
going. There is no difficulty in obtaining them, 
as there is always a stock on hand at the shavers 
(brokers) and lottery offices. Had 1 bought 
pistoreens (iOd. pieces) from Philadelphia, I 
should have made 25 per cent, by them : they 
pass here, in consequence of the want of specie, 
for thirteen pence. Before I leave Cincinnati, 
let me say, that I think it a very handsome 
town ; a town in fact, that must astonish every 
traveller when he recollects how recently it 
has been established. Mr. Piatt is building a 
house here which would not disgrace the very 
first London squares. The number of moderate- 
sized, well-built brick buildings is considerable ; 
the three markets are excellent establishments ; 
the churches are neat and elegant ; the post- 
office would bear a comparison in its arrange- 
ment and management with that of London ; 
some of the streets are paved, others are now 
paving ; ground for building in the town is 
enormously dear ; Mr. Piatt (banker and mer- 
chant) informs me that one particular spot, 
which cost when he first settled here (18 years 
ago) 30 dollars, is now worth 20,000. 

The next consideration is, does this town 
offer substantial inducement to settlers ? I think 



£34 KENTUCKY, 

not; it has advanced rapidly, but it cannot 
continue to do so ; the future progress is certain, 
but it must be gradual. Property is as high 
here as in Philadelphia, and all occupations are 
filled. On the road, every emigrant tells you he 
is going to Ohio; when you arrive in Ohio, its 
inhabitants are " moving" to Missouri and Ala- 
bama ; thus it is that the point for final settle- 
ment is for ever receding as you advance, and 
thus it will hereafter proceed, and only be ter- 
minated by that effectual barrier — the Pacific 
Ocean. 

KENTUCKY. 

Being in the neighbourhood of Kentucky, I 
felt anxious to see a State that forms so very 
important a part of the " Western Country ;" and 
although I knew it was a slave State, yet having 
seen so much of practical slavery in those States 
denominated free, I did not anticipate that one 
in which this deplorable order of things is 
legalized, could be really worse. In addition to 
this, I had received an impression that the 
genuine Kentuckian had many excellent traits of 
character. Mr. Mellish says that " they resemble 
" the Irish ; are frank, affable, polite, and hos- 
" pitable in a high degree ; they are quick in 
" their temper, sudden in their resentment, and 
" warm in all their affections." A variation of 
character was evident in a trifling occurrence at 
the first tavern at which I put up : six gentle- 



LANDS, &C. 235 

men were seated at the dining-room fire drink- 
ing wine, and engaged in varied and rational 
conversation ; this was an instance of sociality 
which, common as it ma)' appear to you, / had 
' not witnessed in my previous western travels. 

I proceeded into the interior with the inten- 
tion of seeing Lexington and then proceeding 
to Louisville, but found the roads so excessively 
bad, winter rapidly approaching, and my objects 
not half effected, that I relinquished that design. 
This at the time was a source of regret, as I had 
imagined Lexington from its high reputation to 
be a Paris in mi nature. 

A gentleman, who is a resident of Lexington, 
had the politeness to forward me the following 
particulars of the prices of lands in its vicinity. 

lands, &c. 
Lands depend on a variety of circumstances, 
such as the distance from the town, the conve- 
nience of shipping produce, the contiguity of 
the same to some populous town, the quality of 
the land, its water privileges, and the perma- 
nency of such streams. A general estimation 
may be made as follows : — Those within live 
miles are from twenty to forty dollars per acre ; 
five to ten miles, ten to twenty dollars ; ten to 
fifteen miles, from Hve to fifteen dollars. This 
statement supposes no improvements to have been 
made on the land. Such land is computed to 



c 236 NEGROES. 

produce from fifty to seventy-five bushels of 
Indian corn per acre, and very frequently one 
hundred bushels when well tilled. As wheat 
requires land not so rich, its produce is less, 
being from twenty to thirty bushels per acre ; 
thirty to forty of oats ; twenty to thirty of rye ; 
one thousand to fifteen hundred pounds of to- 
bacco, and about the same quantity of hemp, 
may be taken as fair averages, although fre- 
quently a much greater quantity is produced. 
" The price of good field negroes is now about 
" eight hundred dollars. The annual expence of 
" such hands may be estimated at from seventy- 
" five to one hundred dollars ; ditto for clothing 
" at from twelve to fifteen more ; — say together, 
" eighty-seven to one hundred and fifteen, or an 
" average of one hundred dollars per annum. 
" Their provisions differ but little from hired 
" white servants." In general, farmers command 
a ready cash sale for their produce. The old cus- 
tom of carrying it to the New Orleans market is 
nearly superseded by the creation of a new order 
of tradesmen, who are a medium between the 
western farmer and the Orleans merchant. 

The state of education is improving. The 
terms are various : the best is 451. per annum, 
including board. Schoolmasters of talent and 
respectability are in demand in Kentucky. In- 
stances exist of their realizing from seven hun- 
dred to fourteen hundred dollars per annum. 



SOIL. — PRODUCE. 237 

Rents may be said to be high in Lexington : 
there are so few persons really poor, that all 
houses command great prices. Even buildings 
of mean appearance let for from fifty to five 
hundred dollars per annum ; and stores and 
shops for double these amounts. 

The trees of this State are various, and some 
which I have seen are of a very enormous size. 
The black oak and honey locust denote the 
richest lands : they grow thirty feet in height. 
The white and yellow poplar, and cucumber 
tree, measure in circumference twenty feet. 
The general character of the soil is chalk, 
covered with a stratum of vegetable earth from 
eight to twelve feet in depth. A want of water 
in the summer season is much felt, except in 
the vicinity of great rivers and their principal 
dependent streams. Indian corn is raised here 
in vast abundance, and also stock of various 
kinds for the New Orleans, southern, and At- 
lantic markets. Thirty thousand hogsheads of 
tobacco were shipped from this State last sea- 
son, and eighty thousand barrels of flour; the 
price of which latter experiences great fluctu- 
ation, varying from four to eight dollars per 
barrel : at present it is six to seven. Pork 
is well fed, and of excellent quality : the 
present price is three to four dollars per cwt. 
Beef is also of good quality, and the stock 
has received considerable attention bv the mix- 



238 EXPORTS, 

ture of English breeds. Whiskey is an exten- 
sive article of manufacture : the export of last 
season was one million of gallons. Cordage, 
yarn, and bagging, have been important busi- 
nesses ; but European competition has materially 
decreased their consumption. The following 
statement of exports for the last season may be 
considered correct. Such a statement is useful, 
as aiding us to form an estimate of the produc- 
tions and wealth of Kentucky. 

Dollars. 
Flour and Wheat - - amount of 1,000,000 

Pork, Bacon, and Lard - - - 350,000 

Whiskey 500,000 

Tobacco 1,900,000 

Wool and fabrics of Wool and Cotton - 100,000 
Cordage, Hemp, and fabrics of Hemp - 500,000 
Cattle - - - - - - 200,000 

Horses and Mules - ... 100,000 

Salt-petre and Gun -powder - - 60,000 

White and' Red Lead .... 45,000 

Soap and Candles - - - - - 27,000 

4,782,000 



Being at Middletown, in my way to Louisville, 

I met with Mr. and Mr. ■ , of 

Liverpool, together with Dr. B and Coh 

B , who were going to New Orleans. They 

had been two days and nearly two nights com- 
ing in the stage from Lexington, a distance of 
about fifty miles. We ail went to " Lawes* 
nf 



LAWES' HOTEL. 239 

Hotel/ ' the following charges and rules of which 
are posted up in the public-room. 





Dollars. Cents. 


Board for Horse, per year 


120 


Ditto, per week 


3 


Ditto, per night 


*>£ 


Ditto, single feed 


18| 


Dinner for Man 


- 37 


Supper 


25 


Bed - 


12| 


Breakfast - 


25 


Board, per year 


120 


Ditto, per week 


3 


Ditto, per day 


1 



Rules to be observed by all Gentlemen tvho choose to board at 
Lake's Hotel, Middletoitm, Kentucky : 

1st. All Gentlemen to give in their names to the Bar- 
keeper. 

2d. No Gentleman shall enter the Dining-room until the 
second bell rings. 

3d. No gambling allowed in the Bed-rooms. 

4th. The doors closed at ten o' Clock, except on the night 
of public amusement. 

5th. No Gentlemen shall take the Saddle, Bridle, or 
Harness of another Gentleman without his consent. 

TREATMENT OF NEGROES. 

A few minutes before dinner, my attention 
was excited by the piteous cries of a human 
voice, accompanied with the loud cracking of a 
whip. Following the sound, I found that it 
issued from a log barn, the door of which was 
fastened. Peeping through the logs, I perceived 
the bar-keeper, together with a stout man, more 
than six feet high, who was called Colonel 
, and a negro boy about 14 years of age 



240 FLOGGING A NEGRO. 

stript naked, receiving the lashes of these mon- 
sters, who relieved each other in the use of a 
horse-whip: the poor boy fell down upon his 
knees several times, begging and praying that 
they would not kill him, and that he would do 
any thing they liked : this produced no cessation 
in their exercise. At length Mr. Lawes arrived, 
told the valiant Colonel and his humane em- 
ployer, the bar-keeper, to desist, and that the 
boy's refusal to cut wood was in obedience to 
his (Mr. L. 5 s) directions. Colonel — — said, 
that " he did not know what the nig gar had done, 
" but that the bar-keeper requested his assistance 
" to whip Caesar ; of course he lent him a hand, 
" being no more than he should expect Mr. 
** Lawes to do for him under similar circum- 
" stances." At table Mr. Lawes said, " that 
" he had not been so vexed for seven years." 
This expression gave me pleasure, and also 
afforded me, as I thought, an opportunity to 
reprobate the general system of slavery ; but not 
one voice joined with mine ; each gave vent in 
the following language to the superabundant 
quantity of the milk of human kindness, with 
which their breasts were overflowing : — 

" I guess he deserved all he got." 

" It would have been of small account if the 
" wiggar had been whipt to death. 55 

" I always serve my b d niggars thatway 5 

" there is nothing else so good for them. 55 

It appeared that this boy was the property of 



PROPERTY INJURED. 2M 

ta regular slave-dealer, who was then absent at 
Natchez with a cargo. Mr. Lawes' humanity 
fell lamentably in my estimation when he stated, 
* 5 that whipping niggars, if they were his own, 
" was perfectly right, and they always deserved 
■" it*, but what made him mad was, that the boy 
<c was left under his care by a friend, and he 
*' did not like to have a friend's property 
46 injured.'* 

There is in this instance of the treatment of 
a negro, nothing that in this State is at all sin- 
gular ; and much as I condemned New York, 
Pennsylvania, and Ohio, when in those sections, 
I must now give them the character of enlight- 
ened humanity, compared with this State, in 
which such conduct as that I have described is 
tolerated and approved, and where such public 
notices as the following, extracted from a news- 
paper, are of every-day occurrence : — 

« 20 DOLLARS REWARD. 
« RAN AWAY on the 27th instant, a NEGRO MAN 
*« named JACK, about 5 feet 6 or 7 inches high, very stout 
** made, of a dark complexion, and has several of his fore 
< i teeth rotten or out, about 25 years of age. He was brought 
<c from Lexington, Kentucky, by Messrs, Jacoby and Stone, 
" negro traders, where I think it is likely he will try to get 
*\ to. The above reward will be paid on his being appre- 
*< hended and lodged in any gaol, so that I may get him, 
il together with all reasonable expenses, if brought to the 
" subscriber. Basil Lamar." 

Is it possible to read and to hear of these 
things, without exclaiming, in the indignant 

K 



Wtfl SLAVERY. — LOUISVILLE. 

language of the poet, who, after describing the 
miseries of war, adds, 

" Thus man devotes his brother, and destroys ; 

" And worse than all, and most to be deplored, 

" As human nature's broadest, foulest blot, 

" Chains him, and tasks him, and exacts his sweat 

" With stripes, that Mercy, with a bleeding heart, 

" Weeps when she sees inflicted on a beast. 

li Then what is man ? And ivhat man seeing this, 

" And having human feelings, does not blush 

" And hang his head to think himself a man ?" 

LOUISVILLE. 

Louisville, at the falls of the Ohio, is daily 
becoming a most important town, being the 
connecting link between New Orleans and the 
whole western country. It must soon take the 
lead of Lexington in extent of population, as 
it has already done in the rapid rise of town 
property, the increase of which during the last 
four years is said to have been two hundred 
per cent. Rents, prices of provisions, nature of 
employment, and earnings of mechanics, prices 
of land in the neighbourhood of the town, &c. 
do not possess a difference of sufficient import- 
ance to those given in the previous part of this 
report, to require minute detail. Mechanics can 
have immediate employment, and are paid40s.6d. 
to 54s. per week. Shoes that are very inferior in 
wear, though not in make to English, are from 
15s. 3d. to 18s. a pair. Best hats, 36s. to 45s. 
each j and every other article of clothing in pro- 



GANDER-PULLING. 243 

portion. The population of this town is from 4 
to 5,000. Good brick buildings are fast increas- 
ing. One of the hotels (Gwathway's) is said to 
be rented at 6,000 dollars per annum : from 150 
to 200 persons dine at this establishment daily. 
About every twelfth house in the main street 
is a doctor's. 

Lousville is said to be improving in health: 
the prevalent diseases are fever and ague : be- 
sides which, the common disorders of this State 
are consumption, pleurisy, typhus, remittent 
and intermittent fevers, rheumatism, and dysen- 
tery. I do not feel myself competent to con- 
firm or deny the general claim of the Ken- 
tuckians to generosity and warmth of character ; 
of their habits I would wish to speak with equal 
diffidence ; that they drink a great deal, swear 
a great deal, and gamble a great deal, will be 
apparent to a very brief resident. The barbarous 
practice of gouging, with which they are charged, 
I have not seen occur, though I have good reason 
to believe in its existence. They have also an- 
other practice, nearly akin to this, called "gander- 
pulling." This diversion consists in tying a live 
gander to a tree or pole, greasing its neck, riding 
past it at full gallop, and he who succeeds in 
pulling off the head of the victim, receives the 
laurel crown. I think I have heard of a similar 
pastime as practised in Holland ; but these are 

r 2 



£44 NEWSPAPER ADVERTISEMENTS. 

not to be taken as unmixed characteristics.* So- 
ciety is unquestionably improving, and Lexing- 
ton probably already posseses inhabitants who 
are polished and refined. 

* American newspaper advertisements have frequently 
the character of singularity, at least to an English concep- 
tion : as the following one from the " Kentucky Reporter," 
published at Lexington, possesses, in addition to this quality, 
a partial illustration of Kentucky society, I copy it for your 
perusal : — 

« TAKE NOTICE, 
« And beware of the swindler JESSE DOUGHERTY, who 
*< married me in November last, and some time after mar- 
" riage informed me that he had another wife alive, and be- 
" fore I recovered, the villain left me, and took one of my 
" best horses — one of my neighbours was so good as to fol- 
" low him and take the horse from him, and bring him back. 
«* The said Dougherty is about forty years of age, five feet 
" ten inches high, round-shouldered, thick lips, complexion 
" and hair dark, grey eyes, remarkably ugly and ill-natured, 
" and very fond of ardent spirits, and by profession a noto- 
" rious liar. This is therefore to warn all widows to beware 
u of the swindler, as all he wants is their property, and they 
" may go to the devil for him after he gets that. Also, all 
" persons are forewarned from trading with the said Dough- 
" erty, with the expectation of receiving pay from my pro- 
w perty, as I consider the marriage contract null and void 
" agreeably to law : you will therefore pay no attention to 
" any lies he may tell you of his property in this county. 
" The said Dougherty has a number of wives living, per- 
" haps eight or ten, (the number not positively known,) and 
'« will, no doubt, if he can get them, have eight or ten more. 
" I believe that is the way he makes his living. 

« MARY DODD." 
« Livingston county, Ky. Sept. 5, 1817 — 38at(ch. W. G.)~ 



MANUFACTORIES. 245 

In drawing towards the conclusion of my re- 
marks upon Kentucky, I wave the usual import- 
ant consideration, whether or not emigration 
here would be desirable % because I am sure 
that were gold to be obtained in countless quan- 
tities for the mere asking, that there is not a man 
or woman among you who would leave England 
to become citizens of a slave State ; but as Ken- 
tucky is perhaps the strongest member of the 
western body, and must, of necessity, influence 
its growth and healthfulness, and as in this State 
the vitally interesting subjects of agriculture and 
manufactures have received a considerable de- 
gree of attention, I forward you an estimate 
which has been just made by some very judi- 
cious men of the state of manufactories in Lex- 
ington : — 12 cotton manufactories, employing a 
capital in the whole of 67,5001.; 8 woollen 
ditto, 32,6001. ; 3 paper ditto, 20,2501. ; 3 steam 
grist-mills, 16,8751. ; gun-powder mills, 9,0001. \ 
lead factory, 14,8001. ; founderies for casting 
iron and brass, connected with a silver-plating 
establishment, 9,0001. ; 4 hat factories, 15,0001. ; 
4 coach ditto, 12,6001. ; 5 tanners and curriers, 
20,0001. ; 12 factories for cotton bagging and 
hempen yarns, 100,4001. ; 6 cabinet-makers, 
5,6001. ; 4 soap and candle factories, 12,1501. \ 
3 tobacco factories, 11,4501. ; sundry others, 
120,0001. ; total amount of capital employed in 
the manufactories of Lexington, 467,2251. 

e 3 



246 HOTELS. 

I believe that the capitalist could employ hm 
money to much advantage in Kentucky. Per- 
haps, in the way of manufacturing, hat-making 
might be suggested. Farming is lucrative, as is 
also distilling. A good woollen dyer is wanted. 
Oil crushing mills are established, but upon 
principles which are susceptible of great im- 
provements ; the part which affords what is 
termed the oil-cake is thrown away. Flax and 
hemp seed sell from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 8id. per 
bushel. The price of boating goods from New 
Orleans to Louisville (distance 1412 miles), is 
from 18s. to 22s. 6d. per hundred. The freight 
to New Orleans from hence, is 3s. 4Jd. to 4s. 6d. 
per hundred. The average period of time which 
boats take to go to New Orleans, is about 
28 days ; that from New Orleans, 90 days* 
Steam- vessels effect the same route in an average 
of 12 days down, and 3d days up, when their 
machinery does not meet with an accident. 

HOTELS. 

Having been twice at Louisville, I boarded 
at both the hotels (Allen's, Washington Hal], 
and Gwath way's, Indian Queen): they are similar 
establishments, both upon a very large scale, 
the former having an average of 80 boarders 
per day, the latter of 140 : their charges are — 
breakfast, Is. 8d. ; dinner, 2s. 3d. ; supper, 
Is. 8d. ; bed, 13d. \ if fire in room, an extra 



HABITS AT HOTELS. 247 

charge of 6jd. per night ; board and lodging, 
per day, 6s. 9d. ; ditto per day for three months 
certain, 4s. 6d. Such charges, with an immense 
extent of business, must insure a man, mo- 
derately careful, a large fortune. These hotels 
are conducted differently from those with which 
you are acquainted. A person desiring to put 
up at one of them, applies to the bar-keeper, 
and he must not feel disappointed should he 
be refused admittance from want of room. 
The place for washing is in the open yard, in 
which there is a large cistern, several towels, 
and a negro in attendance. The sleeping-room 
commonly contains from 4 to 8 bed-steads, hav- 
ing mattrasses, but frequently no feather-beds ; 
sheets of calico, two blankets, a quilt (either 
a cotton counterpane, or made of patchwork ;) 
the bedsteads have no curtains, and the rooms 
are generally unprovided with any conveniences. 
The public rooms are — - a news-room, a boot- 
room, in which the bar is situated, and a dining 
room. The fires are generally surrounded by 
parties of about six, who gain and keep posses- 
sion. The usual custom is to pace up and down 
the news-room in a manner similar to walking 
the deck at sea. Smoking segars is practised 
by all without an exception, and at every hour 
of the day. Argument or discussion in this 
part of the world is of very rare occurrence ; 
social intercourse seems still more unusual ; cou- 
rt 4 



248 HABITS AT HOTEILSV 

versation on general topics, or the taking en- 
larged and enlightened views of things* rarely 
occurs ; each man is in pursuit of his own indi- 
vidual interest, and follows it in an individual- 
ized manner. •— But to return to the taverns : 
at half past seven, the first bell rings for the 
purpose of collecting ail the boarders, and at 
eight the second bell rings ; breakfast is then 
set, the dining-room is unlocked, a general 
rush commences, and some activity, as well as 
dexterity, is essentially necessary to obtain a 
seat at the table* A boy, as clerk, attends to 
take down the names, in order that when bills 
are settled no improper deduction should be 
made. The breakfast consists of a profuse sup- 
ply of fislv flesh, and fowl, which is consumed 
with a rapidity truly extraordinary ; often be- 
fore I had finished my first cup of tea, the room, 
which when I had commenced was crowded to 
suffocation, had become nearly empty. 

At half-past one, the first bell rings, an- 
nouncing the approach of dinner ; the avenues 
to the dining-room become thronged. At two 
o'clock the second bell rings, the dt>ors are 
thrown open, and a repetition of the breakfast 
scene succeeds. At six, tea, or what is here 
called s\ipper, is announced, and partaken of in 
the same manner. This is the last meal, and 
usually affords the same fare as breakfast. A 
billiard table adjoins the hotel, and is generally 



HABITS AT HOTELS. 249 

well occupied. At ten o'clock, nearly all have 
gone to bed, or what they call " turned in." 
At table their is neither conversation nor yet 
drinking ; the latter is effected by individuals 
taking their solitary " eye openers," " toddy," 
and "phlegm dispersers," at the bar, the keeper 
of which is in full employ from sun-rise to bed- 
time. A large tab of water, with a ladle, is 
placed on the bar, to which customers go and 
help themselves. When spirits are called for, the 
decanter is handed, and you take what quan- 
tity you please ; the charge is always 6|d. It is 
never drunk neat, or with sugar or warm water. 
The life of boarders at an American tavern, 
presents the most senseless and comfortless 
mode of killing time which I have ever seen. 
Every house of this description that I have been 
in is thronged to excess, and there is not a 
man who appears to have a single earthly 
object in -view, except spitting and smoking 
segars. I have not seen a book in the hands of 
any person since I left Philadelphia. Objection- 
able as these habits are, they afford decided 
evidence of the prosperity of that country, which 
can admit so large a body of its citizens to waste 
in indolence three-fourths of their lives, and 
would also appear to hold out encouragement to 
Englishmen with English habits, who could 
retain their industry amid a nation of indolence, 
and have sufficient firmness to live in America, 



250 LORD SELKIRK. 

and yet bid defiance to the deadly example of 
its natives. 

When at Gwathway's hotel, I had the plea- 
sure of meeting with Lord Selkirk : he was on 
his return from his unsuccessful expedition in 
the north-western territory. I procured for 
him, from the respectable house of Vernon and 
Blake, some Boston papers which were only 
two months old : they contained, as usual, 
English news. He had not heard any intel- 
ligence from Europe for nine months, and was 
therefore much pleased with the novelty. During 
my first visit to this town, I addressed a letter to 
Mr. Birkbeck, at either Princeton or Vincennes, 
not having determined at that time to visit 
Illinois, On leaving Kentucky, I have to 
regret that so much remains to be done for the 
habits of the people, and to feel from my soul 
the most sincere sorrow, that men who can 
form a theoretic constitution, in -which it is 
declared, that "men when they form a social 
" compact are equal ; that no man or set of men 
" are entitled to exclusive, separate public 
" emoluments or privileges from the community, 
" but in consideration of public services ; that 
" all men have a natural and indefeasible right 
" to worship God according to the dictates 
" of their consciences ;" I cannot, 1 say, but 
feel sorrow that men who can in theory lay down 
such principles, can in their practice continue, 

*5 



MR. MELLISH. 251 

and even boast of the most demoralizing habits, 
treat their fellow-creatures worse than brute 
beasts, and buy and sell human beings like cattle 
at a fair. 

In quitting this State, J can by no means 
coincide with Mr. Mellish, when he says " The 
" only serious evil that I had to complain of in 
M my journey through this country, arose from 
" the proneness of many of the natives to 
" swearing." If this be a fact, I cannot envy 
Mr. Mellish his, feelings, although his love for 
universal liberty is so great, that he could 
neither remain in England, nor bear to set his 
foot in Canada. Neither can I agree with this 
'profound philanthropist, that " these sad doings 
" are outdone every day by transactions in 
" the capital of a nation "who think themselves 
" the most polished on earth, and some of these 
" even supported and encouraged- by the 
" Corinthian capitals of polished society." Mr. 
Mellish calls Mr. Ashe " a hireling. 99 When I 
find a writer at times thus blindly glossing 
over the most glaring faults, and at others 
enlarging and exaggerating, and finding excel- 
lencies and signs of prosperity which only exist 
in his own imagination, I confess 1 am inclined 
to suspect that he is himself a candidate for an 
occupation by no means dissimilar to that which 
he thus attributes to his rival traveller. 



%5% ILLINOIS TERRITORY. 



ILLINOIS TERRITORY. 

After a long and fatiguing journey, I have at 
length reached the Illinois territory, which in 
all probability will soon become the twentieth 
State of this flourishing Republic. In my re- 
port from Philadelphia, sent in the Electra, and 
whicn I calculate you will receive by about 
the 12th December, I forwarded all the inform- 
ation of which I was then in possession. Though 
I have seen a large portion of this interesting 
continent, my mind is by no means yet made up 
concerning it. I have in fact come to no deci- 
sion, and feel that my residence here has been 
too brief to enable me correctly to form a judg* 
ment upon what is, in more senses of the ex* 
pression than one, " a new world," or fully 
to comprehend a land and a people essentially 
different from those I have been accustomed 
to contemplate. Acting under this impression, 
therefore, I would wish, at least for the present, 
to give you, as far as lies in my power, facts 
from which you may form your own judgment, 
and be enabled hereafter, perhaps, the better 
to see the propriety of mine : I shall proceed, 
therefore, as' before, in giving extracts from 
my journal, which I have kept with minute 
exactness from Philadelphia to this place. 



ILLINOIS TERRITORY, 253 

Although it was not a part of our original 
views that I should have visited the Illinois 
territory ; yet conceiving the practicability of 
a comfortable settlement in the eastern States 
extremely questionable, and finding that the old 
settled States, even on this side of the mountains, 
offered not much greater encouragement, pro- 
perty in all the towns which are possessed of 
reasonable advantages having attained the full 
amount of Philadelphian value, and, in the coun- 
try speculators having laid their hands upon a 
vast number of fine tracts, I thought it best to 
seek elsewhere ; not that in the States of Ohio, 
&c. there was no land yet to be purchased 
at government prices ; but it appeared to me, 
that if a removal from England should become, 
under all circumstances, our duty, and if, as 
was by no means improbable, we should be 
induced to mark out a new channel for our 
exertions, by becoming agriculturists, it would 
be no great addition to our privations to proceed 
a little farther west than Ohio, where, if we could 
not find cheaper lands, we should at least have 
a greater variety for selection, and possess all 
the advantages enjoyed by the first proprietors 
of well-chosen sections. With these impressions 
I have advanced thus far, and am now anxious 
to close this report in time for the post, pre- 
vious to the farther- pursuit of my objects. As 
it is written close, and on very thin paper, I 



254 ILLINOIS. — ACRES. 

trust the postage will not be extravagant. It 
will go by way of New York, inclosed to the 

care of Messrs. of that city. I pass over 

Indiana, a State to which there exist some strong 
objections that may be detailed in my next. 
The territory of Illinois, though but very thinly 
populated, has been inhabited at Kaskaski, and 
a few other places, for many years, originally, 
I believe, by the French from Canada. 

The mean breadth of the territory is said to be 
200 miles, length 350, lying between N. latitude 
36° 30' and 42°. The Ohio river is its southern 
boundary, extending from the mouth of the Wa- 
bash to the junction of the former with the Missis- 
sippi, a distance of 150 miles. The Mississippi 
forms the western boundary, stretching from the 
above junction to the rocky hills, a distance of 600 
miles, following the course of that river, but the 
windings are so great that the real distance is 
much less. The Wabash river separates Illinois 
from Indiana : an imaginary line, which it is 
proposed shall extend due east from the Rocky 
Hills, will separate it from the north-western 
territory. The number of acres is calculated 
to be 35,000,000 : that of square miles, 50,000. 
Exertions are now making to have this territory 
admitted into the Union, and you will join with 
me in praying that slavery may not form a part 
of its constitution, as, should it do so, that, I 
conceive, will form an insurmountable barrier 



ILLINOIS. — RIVERS. 255 

to the emigration of every man possessed of a 
humane or independent mind. The popula- 
tion, I am informed, is at present chiefly on 
the Wabash, below Vincennes, and on the banks 
of the Kaskaski, Ohio, and Mississippi rivers. 
The means of internal navigation, without the 
expence of cutting canals, are truly extraor- 
dinary ; added to which the facilities of export 
afforded by those " fathers of waters," the Ohio, 
Mississippi, and Missouri, present a picture of 
future greatness dazzling to conceive — impos- 
sible to estimate. 

The estimated courses of the waters of this 
territory are, in length, 



Wabash, . - 


230 miles 


Mississippi, 

Ohio, 

Illinois, 


600 
150 
300 


Kaskaski, 
Various tributaries, 


300 
1400 



2980 

Amount of internal navigation, 2000 miles ; 
ditto of frontiers, 1000 ; the distance from 
Shawnee Town by "water to Buffalo, through 
the lakes, 1200 miles ; ditto from the same place 
to New Orleans, 1130: thus securing a most 
immense internal water communication, as well 
as a direct one with the ocean \ the face of the 



256 soils, &c. 

country must, in so large an extent, possess con- 
siderable variety. The general surface of the 
lands in the Shawnee Town and Kaskaski dis- 
tricts, and in the neighbouring parts of the Il- 
linois, is more than ordinarily level, though to 
this there are some exceptions. The alluvial 
lands of both the Ohio and Mississippi rivers 
occasionally terminate in bluffs, in some places 
high and craggy, in others more gradual in 
their rise, and easy of ascent. There are through- 
out the State a vast number of prairies, of 
boundless extent, and presenting a most de- 
lightful contrast to the sombre character of an 
American wilderness. The soil is infinitely 
more varied than the face of the country. It 
has been classified by some as follows : 1st. Hills 
of a barren soil, and covered with pines and 
small oaks. 2d. Moderately hilly land, and well 
watered. 3d. Wet prairies, which are remote 
from streams, the soil cold and barren, abound- 
ing with swamps, ponds, and covered with a 
tall coarse grass. 4th. Dry prairies, bordering 
the rivers, lie, on an average level, higher by 
60 feet, are from three to fifteen miles wide, and 
possess a rich soil, well adapted for cultivation. 
These natural meadows are generally destitute 
of trees, except where crossed by streams. Some 
have clusters of trees, which may be denominated, 
what they very much resemble — islands, though 

upon terra Jirma. The prairies of this territory 
I3 * 



ANIMALS, &C. 257 

are said to cover more than a million of acres. 
The soil in some places assumes the hue of iron 
rust, interspersed with a light sand. 5th. Un- 
ripe alluvial, which bears sycamore, water- 
maple, ash, and willow. This land is generally 
found at the mouthr onfluences of rivers, 

and, as a place of re. \, in the present un- 

cleared state of the * /itry, is considered as 
highly injurious to he ji. 6th. Ripe alluvial. 
This land is of th* fi - quality, and is found in 
various degrees of . A tent on all the rivers. It 
bears honey locust, pecan, black walnut, and 
sugar maple trv.es. In autumn, the fruit and 
leaves of the black walnut are said to produce an 
agreeable flavour. This land is considered to 
be remarkably fertile, in proof of which some 
part of it is asserted to have been cultivated to 
profit without manure, for the last hundred 
years. 

Squirrels, racoons, foxes, deer, wolves, and 
bears abound; as do wild turkeys and quails ; 
geese and ducks partially ; hawks, buzzards, and 
pigeons in tolerable quantities ; the rivers con- 
tain several species of fish ; in the prairies there 
are rattle-snakes ; the woods supply grapes, 
pecan nuts (similar to our walnut), and hickery 
nuts ; hops, raspberries, and strawberries grow 
wild ; there are several salt ponds — the produce 
is sold at the saline works, 26 miles below the 
Wabash, for 3s. 4 id. per bushel. The annual 

s 



%58 TOWNS. 

produce of this establishment is from one to 
two hundred thousand pounds. Copper and 
lead have been found. The French, when in 
possession of this territory, procured mill-stones 
near the Illinois lake. Coal has been discovered; 
and also white clay.i 

ILLINC i*OWNS. 

Kaskaski, the seat he territorial govern- 
ment, contains about ± ) houses, built on a 
plain 5 some of them are ox stone. This town 
is 150 miles from Vincennes,and 1000 from 
Washington. The inhabitants are chiefly 
French : their principal occupation is raising 
stock. This town has been settled more than 
a century. 

Shawnee Town (from which I now am writ- 
ing), about 30 houses (log.) The chief occu- 
pation of the inhabitants is the salt trade. 
There is here a " United States' Land-office," 
and a log bank is just established. The chief 
cashier of this establishment was engaged in 
cutting logs at the moment of my arrival. 

Wilkinson Ville, a miserable settlement, takes 
its name from General Wilkinson, who, in 1801, 
established a station here for the American 
troops ; it then prospered, but has since fallen 
into complete decay. The other towns of this 
territory are — Cahokia, containing 150 small 
houses, chiefly inhabited by French, St. Philip, 



INDIANS. 259 

fifty miles from Cahokia, is smaller but more 
pleasant. Prairie du Mockers, containing 60 
French families : this is a fine prairie. There are 
also three very small places, called Belle Fon- 
taine, L'Aigle, and Edward's Ville. 

The lands belonging to the Indians lie chiefly 
between the Wabash and Illinois rivers. They 
have considerable reservations north of the 
Illinois river. The United States have lately 
obtained a cession of six miles square, at the end 
of Peoria lake. The aborigines now remaining 
are the Soukies, who have three villages ; — their 
number is about 8000. The Kaskaskians, Caho- 
kias, and Peorias, are much decreased in num« 
bers, in consequence of their wars with the 
Soukies and Foxes. 

Private sales at the Land-office are here, as 
in all other parts, of the Union,fixed at % dollars, 
or 1 dollar 64 cents, for prompt payment* The 
public sales by auction have not, for the most 
choice tracts, exceeded six dollars per acre : the 
old French settlements are from one to fifty dollars 
per acre. The land-tax is levied on the same prin- 
ciple as described in Ohio. The military bounty 
lands in this state amount to 3,500,000 acres. 
They are appropriated to the soldiers who were 
engaged in the late war, and are frequently 
sold by them in the eastern States, for a quarter 
and a half dollar per acre. Indian corn (maize) 
is the leading article of produce. There are 

s 2 



260 CROPS. PRICES. 

some fields of 500 acres, cultivated in common 
by the people of a whole settlement. Wheat is 
abundant, except where the soil is too rich. Flax, 
hemp, oats, potatoes, and cotton are also produc- 
tive, giving very considerable crops. The French 
have made excellent wine from a wild grape, which 
grows here luxuriantly. Indian corn, I am in- 
formed, produces, with moderate care, and in a 
favourable soil, 50 to 70 bushels per acre ; wheat, 
20 to 30; barley, 20 to 30; oats, 30 to 50; 
tobacco, 10 .to 13 hundred. Indian corn sells 
from 13d. to lG|d. per bushel ; wheat, 3s. 4*d. ; 
oats, 19|d. ; tobacco, 20s. 3d. per hundred. The 
price of horses is from 131. 10s. to 181. ; cows, 
41. to 51. ; a good sow, 21. 14s. ; beef is sold at 
22s. 6d. per hundred; pork, 15s. 9d. to 18s. 
Labourers are paid 2s. 3d. per day, and board. 
Clothing and groceries are extremely dear. 
Indian corn is gathered in November. Wheat is 
cut in June, and housed in July. Pork for ex- 
port is killed in December. Freight from this 
place to Louisville (distance 307 miles) is 5s. per 
cwt \from Louisville, Is. 8d.;Jrom hence to New 
Orleans, (distance 1130 miles,) 4s. 6d.; from 
New Orleans, 20s. 3d. ; hence to Pittsburgh, (dis- 
tance 1013miles,) l5$.9&.;from Pittsburgh, 4s. 6d. 
This vast disproportion in charge of freight is pro- 
duced by the difference in time, in navigating up 
and down the streams of the Ohio and Mississippi. 
I have not had sufficient experience in these 



BUILDING. SOCIETY. 26 1 

back woods, to feel confidence in the following 
estimate of expences for erecting a residence ; 
it is, however the most authentic that I have 
been enabled to procure. A log cabin of two 
rooms can, I am informed, be erected for 111. 5s. 
to 161.; a frame house, 10 to 14 feet square, 
for 1301. to 1501.; a log kitchen, ?h to 81. ; a log 
stable, 7k to 9k ; a barn, 181. to 22k; fencing 
13d. per rood ; ditching, in prairie land, l6d. 
to 2s. per rood. 

INHABITANTS OF ILLINOIS. 

The inhabitants of Illinois may, perhaps be 
ranked as follows : First, the Indian hunters, 
who are neither different in character or pursuits 
from their ancestors in the days of Columbus. 
2d, The " Squatters," who are half- civilized 
and half-savage. These are, in character and 
habits, extremely wretched : indeed, I prefer 
the genuine uncontaminated Indian. 3d, A 
medley of land-jobbers, lawyers, doctors, and 
farmers, who traverse this immense continent, 
founding settlements, and engaging in all kinds 
of speculation. 4th, Some old French settlers, 
possessed of considerable property, and living in 
ease and comfort. 

Concerning the state of society, my experi- 
ence does not allow me to say much, or to speak 
with confidence. Generally, I suspect that the 
powers of the legislature are, as yet, weak in 
s 3 



26$£ CLIMATE. 

their operation. Small provocations insure the 
most relentless and violent resentments. Duels 
are frequent. The dirk is an inseparable com- 
pan ion of all classes ; and the laws are robbed 
of their terror, by not being firmly and equally 
administered. A general character of independ- 
ence, both as to the means of living and habits 
of society, appears universal. Here, no man is 
either thought or called " master ;" neither, on 
the other hand, is there found any coarse vul- 
garity. A cold, selfish indifference is the com- 
mon characteristic of the labourer and the 
judge ; and I should hope that Illinois-State 
constitution will not, when formed, authorize 
and legalize slavery ; yet the Ohio practice 
will, I have no doubt, continue as it now is in 
Illinois, — indenturing negroes for a term of 
from 10 to 15 years, This baleful practice 
promises a perpetuation of practical slavery 
throughout America. 

Of the climate I know but little from personal 
experience. The mornings and evenings, at this 
time, are extremely cold. In July and August 
Fahrenheit ranges from 85° to 105°. In the win- 
ter (which is not long), from 10 below to 20 above 
zero. The wildness of the country implies an 
unformed climate. The disturbance of a great 
body of surplus vegetable matter, upon the first 
settling of land* together with the dampness 



WESTERN EMIGRATION. #63 

arising from stagnant waters, frequently produce 
bilious fevers and agues. 

My mind continues undecided concerning 
our removal. When in England I had hoped, 
in common with yourselves, that the old settled 
States of America, which must be so much better 
suited to our habits and pursuits than an un- 
cultivated wilderness, would have afforded suf- 
ficient inducement to emigration, particularly 
as our objects are the continuance in well- 
established habits of industry, and not rapid 
fortune-making. With the means of forming 
a judgment on this subject, I have endeavoured, 
as far as lies in my power, to supply you in the 
course of my preceding reports. 

Should your minds be favourable to a western 
country settlement, I should wish to press upon 
your deliberate re-consideration the following 
ideas : 

First, — Is it essential to your prosperity and 
happiness that you should leave England ? 

Second, — Do the habits and character of the 
American people afford you rational grounds for 
desiring to become their fellow-citizens ? 

Third, — Have all of you the dispositions 
requisite in order to become cultivators of a 
wilderness ? 

Fourth, — Assuming that you have those dis- 
positions, are you fitted for such an entire 
change of pursuits, and can you endure the 

s 4 



264< EMIGRATION TO ILLINOIS. 

difficulties and dangers necessarily attendant on 
such a situation ? 

If, after . cool, deliberate, and rational con- 
sideration, with your minds as free from en- 
thusiastic expectations connected with this con- 
tinent, as they well can be under the existence 
of the present order of things in England, you 
can answer in the affirmative, then I have little 
doubt of the propriety of recommending to your 
attention the Illinois territority. 

P. S. Should I resolve upon taking New Or- 
leans in my route to Washington, 1 shall most 
likely address you from the former city. 



SIXTH REPORT. 



Leave the Territory of Illinois for New Orleans, — City of 
Natchez. — Boat-Loads of Negroes for Sale, — Prevalence 
of British Goods. — Habits, and State of Morals. — Em- 
hark on board Steam-Boat u Orleans," — Mississippi River; 
its Scenery. — Arrival at New Orleans. — Vast Importance 
to the Western Country. — Habits, Character, Morals, 
Amusements. — The Mayor's barbarous Proclamation con- 
cerning Negroes. — Leave New Orleans for the City of 
Washington. — A Review of the Western Country. — Cha- 
racter of Tradesmen. — Mode qf employing Capital. — Arri- 
val in Washington. — Its Situation. — Fine Scenery. — Ca- 
pitol and President'' s House, — British Crusade, — Effects 
in increasing the Prosperity of this City. — Aristocratical 
Absurdity qf the original Plan of the City. — Population.-— 
George Town and Alexandria, — Price qf Provisions. — 
Rents. — Mechanics, — Prevalence and Price qf British 
Goods. — Paper almost the only Currency, — The li Vir- 
" ginian Dynasty," — English Ambassador. — Mr, Clay* 
■ — President's Drawing-Room. -— Habits, — Customs, — 
The Theatre, — Incledon, — Indian Juggler.- — Cobbett and 
Ms Friend of Philadelphia. — His ill Treatment by the Le- 
gislature qf Pennsylvania, and his Statement qf their political 
Corruption, — American Manufactures ; their present ruin- 
ous State, — Capital employed during the late War, — Vete- 
rans of the Revolution, — General St, Clair. — Attend both 
Houses qf Congress, — Their Forms : Members ; Subjects 
discussed, — Corruption in Caucus Election qf President. — 
General Harper s and Mr. Rufus King's Speeches upon 
the Subject, — Poet Moore, — Opposition to Napoleon. — 
European Politics qf Washington — Mr. Birkbeck's Letter 
to myself. 



%M 



State of Virginia, and Washington City, 
February and March, 1818. 

At the date of my last, in December, I had 
not left the Illinois, Since my departure from 
that territory to the present time, I have tra- 
velled a vast distance, and 1 lament to say that 
there is little of it which I, or indeed any man 
among you, could be induced to make a perma- 
nent settlement. The white popuktion are the 
victims of demoralizing habits. The native In- 
dians present, of course, nothing but a picture 
of mere savage life ; and the poor negroes suffer 
even more than commonly falls to the lot of 
their oppressed and degraded condition. What 
a foul stain upon the republic, professing, as it 
does, the principles of liberty and equal rights, 
that, out of twenty States* there should be 
eleven in which slavery is an avowed part 
of their political constitution ; and that in 
those called free (New England excepted) the 
condition of blacks should 'practically amount to 
slavery ! Like the Greeks of old, they talk of 
freedom, while the degraded Helot is within 
their doors. 

Previous to entering into details concerning 
this city, I would wish to call your attention to 
two others, certainly not under any idea of their 
being suitable places for emigration, but in con- 
sequence of their immediate and important con- 
nection with the whole western country. First, 



NATCHEZ., 267 

Natchez, in the State of Mississippi; and 
second, New Orleans, on the Mississippi River, 
one hundred miles above its entrance into 
the Gulph of Mexico. Natchez stands on a 
bluff, about &50 yards above the level of the 
river, a situation, from what I have seen, very 
unusual on the Mississippi, the greater part 
being level, and often overflowing its banks, 
The landing-place is on the river edge, about half 
a mile from the town. At this place there are 
about thirty houses, the greater part of which 
ire whiskey shops, gambling and other houses, 
in which there is a degree of open profligacy^ 
which I had not before witnessed in the United 
States. While contemplating this melancholy 
scene, my attention was directed to the number 
of boats which were then in., port. They consisted 
of twenty-five flats, seven keels, and one steam * 
vessel. The fiat, I should explain, is a square, 
covered vessel, of considerable capacity, used 
for carrying freight from Pittsburgh, and 
other places below that town, down to New 
Orleans ; their construction is temporary, and 
of slight materials, being broken up at New- 
Orleans, as not sufficiently strong to be freighted 
up the river. The keel is a substantial, well- 
built boat, long, and in form resembling the 
floating bath at Blackfriars Bridge, London. 

Observing a great many coloured people, par- 
ticularly females, in these boats, I concluded that 



CHARGES OF SLAVES. 

they were emigrants, who had proceeded thus 
far on their route towards a settlement. The 
fact proved to be that fourteen of the fats "were 
freighted with human beings for sale ! ! They had 
been collected in the several States by slave- 
dealers, and shipped from Kentucky for a 
market. They were dressed up to the best ad- 
vantage, on the same principle that jockeys do 
horses upon sale. The following is a specimen 
of advertisements on this subject : — 

« TWENTY DOLLARS REWARD, 

" Will be paid for apprehending and lodging in gaol, or 
*< delivering to the subscriber, the following slaves, belong- 
" ing to Joseph Irvin, of Iberville .* — 

" TOM, a very light Mulatto, blue eyes, 5 feet 10 inches 
ie high, appears to be about 35 years of age, an artful fellow 
" — can read and write, and preaches occasionally. 

" CHARLOTTE, a black wench, round and full-faced, 
" tall, straight, and likely — about 25 years of age, and wife 
" of the above-named Tom. 

" These slaves decamped from their owner's plantation, on 
*' the night of the 1 4th of September inst. 

" William Kenner & Co." 

The treatment of the negroes throughout these 
States is as villainous as can be well imagined ; 
and although they are themselves not insensible 
to the evils of their condition, they do not seem 
to feel it so acutely as might be anticipated, 
or as the man of common humanity would feel 
on their account. This, however, is natural 
enough, and easy to account for. As the body 



INDIANS. TRADE. 269 

is enslaved, the mind becomes degraded, and 
loses a sense of its own dignity, and of the value 
of independence. 

I observe that there are a few native Indians 
who raise cotton, and hold slaves ; others (but 
only women) are hired to pick the cotton, their 
fathers or husbands receiving their wages. No 
male Indian would submit to the supposed de- 
gradation of being in the employ of any one. — 
A man possessed of from 2 to 10,0001. capital, 
with a pliable conscience, above the common 
feelings of humanity, and whose only object is 
gain, would soon realize, by the culture of cot- 
ton in this district, a very large fortune. 

There are here numerous stores ; three-fourths 
of the stock of every one consist of British 
goods. Shopkeeping is profitable. Mechanics 
are very highly paid, and at this time much 
wanted, in consequence of their having, more 
than the other classes of society, fallen victims 
to the late contagious disorders. — " Packwood ? s 
" razor strops" have even penetrated into this 
remote quarter of the globe : the negro barbers 
do not omit making that circumstance a leading 
point of attraction. 

Lotteries are as prevelant here as in the east- 
ern States ; the one carrying on at this time is for 
building a Presbyterian church ! The " scheme" 
is preceded by a long address upon the advan- 
tages of religion, and the necessity of alt citizens 



^70 HOLY LOTTERY. — HEALTH. 

supporting Christianity by purchasing tickets iii 
this holy lottery ! I 

The church-yard is opposite to Irvine's hotel 
(at which I stopped). Two young men that were 
standing at the door had been warmly engaged 
in a debate ; one was a resident in Natchez, the 
other not so ; their subject of controversy was 
the healthiness of the city ; the latter contended 
that it was sickly ; his friend could not endure 
so foul an aspersion upon his native town ; the 
other explained that he did not mean any thing 
personal, but he considered Natchez was sickly, 
and as a strong proof that his opinion was cor- 
rect, he pointed to the church-yard, in which 
one-fourth of the late population had been en- 
tombed in the course of five weeks. This ex- 
planation was of no avail — he should call him 
out for daring to say that his city was sickly ; 
to be sure, five hundred people had died in a 
short time, but men did not live for ever, even 
among the Yankies (New England). " I say, 
« Sir, that there is not a more healthy place in 
" the world than Natchez." — I find it indeed 
a universal trait of character, that no American 
will allow any place to be so healthy as the one 
in wjhich he resides. — Upon the whole I leave 
Natchez with little knowledge of its inhabitants 
indeed, but with an impression of its comparative 
prosperity exceeding any town which I have ever 
seen. The streets are literally crammed with 

14 



A SERGEANT-AT-ARMS. &jl 

cotton bales for the Liverpool market, they are 
earned to the water-side in carts drawn by two 
mules, horses being little used, — in consequence, 
it is said, of the severe chastisement usually 
inflicted upon them by negro drivers; thus 
these much-injured men revenge upon the dumb 
animal the wrongs they themselves receive from 
their common owner. During my residence at 
this town I twice visited the State legislature, 
which is composed of men who appear any thing 
but legislators. Their place of meeting was in 
a kind of superior hay-loft. The imitation of the 
forms of the British parliament was rather ludi- 
crous: — the only business transacted during my 
stay was the election of a sergeant-at-arms ! 

NEW ORLEANS. 

Viewing this city as intimately connected with 
the considerations of a western country colony, 
I felt desirous of seeing it. I was aware, 
besides, that this would be desirable to assist 
my judgment in forming a correct estimation of 
the whole American people ; for I feel per- 
suaded, that for myself I could not make up a 
final judgment without personal acquaintance 
with the entire " body pblitic." The steam- 
boat " Orleans" being upon the point of de- 
parture, I engaged a place for New Orleans — 
fare, including board, 31. 7s. 6d. ; distance 
300 miles ; time 56 hours. 



TjQ NEW ORLEANS. 

The scenery of the Mississippi in the immediate 
neighbourhood of Natchez is interesting: at 
but a short distance from that city it becomes ex- 
tremely dull, being a dead flat, with banks over- 
flowed ; for 150 miles, until we came near Point 
Caupee church, we were moving through an im- 
mense and dreary forest, without openings or 
breaks of any kind, destitute of variety, and only 
producing by its sombre monotony the most 
melancholy sensations. 

Approaching to New Orleans, a more civilized 
country than I had previously seen presented 
itself, though there were (according to the 
old story) no men hanging in chains. The 
banks were cultivated, settlements multiplied, 
good houses were not uncommon : while nu- 
merous extensive sugar plantations bespoke 
population and wealth. Upon my arrival at 
New Orleans, it is hardly possible to conceive 
the delight which I experienced ; after a tedious 
and dreary journey, even the masts of ships 
afforded me pleasure, as recalling by association 
what I should now denominate the comforts of 
New York and Philadelphia. The increase of 
the city since it has become a part of the United 
States is truly extraordinary, affording another 
proof of the advantages possessed by a people 
who are unshackled. Originally its trade was 
conducted by men who purchased the right of 
monopoly from the parent country, or the 

lot 



, MANNERS - AND - HABITS, &J-3 

viceroys and governors. While this enriched the 
few, it of course impoverished the many, and 
was wholly inconsistent with general prosperity. 
Trade is a plant that can only luxuriantly flourish 
in a free soil. Under the government of Ame- 
rica, every man is left to pursue the bent of 
his own inclination, and to go to the full extent 
of his means; — there exists no monopoly, ex- 
cept that which superior talent or property 
always must, and always ought to confer. The 
consequence of this state of things is, that the 
United States are making unprecedented strides 
towards substantial wealth and national great- 
ness, though cursed, as I am sorry— mortified 
to the heart to be obliged to confess, with a 
population undeserving of their exuberant soil 
and free government. 

The French language is still predominant in 
New Orleans. The population is said to be 
50,000; two-thirds of which do not speak 
English. The appearance of the people too was 
French, and even the negroes evinced, by their 
antics, in rather a ludicrous manner, their con- 
nection with the natives of that nation. 

The general manners and habits are very re- 
laxed. The first day of my residence here was 
Sunday, and I was not a little surprised to find 
in the United States the markets, shops, theatre, 
circus, and public ball-rooms open. Gambling 
homes throng the city: all coffee-houses, to- 

T 



274 INTERESTING EXHIBITION. 

gether with the exchange, are occupied from 
morning until night by gamesters. It is said, 
that when the Kentuckians arrive at this place, 
they are in their glory, finding neither limit to, 
nor punishment of their excesses. The general 
style of living is luxurious. Houses are ele- 
gantly furnished. The ball-room, at Davis's 
hotel, I have never seen exceeded in splendour. 
Private dwellings partake of the same character; 
and the ladies dress with expensive elegance. 
The sources of public amusement are numerous 
and varied ; among them I remark the following : 

" INTERESTING EXHIBITION. 

" On Sunday the 9th inst. will be represented in the place 
" where Fire-works are generally exhibited, near the Circus, 
" an extraordinary fight of Furious Animals* The place 
" where the animals will fight is a rotunda of 160 feet in cir- 
" cumference, with a railing 17 feet in height, and a circular 
•' gallery well conditioned and strong, inspected by the 
" Mayor and surveyors by him appointed. 

" 1st Fight — A strong Attakapas Bull, attacked and 
" subdued by six of the strongest dogs of the country; 
" 2d Fight — Six Bull-dogs against a Canadian Bear. 
" 3d Fight — A beautiful Tiger against a Black Bear. 
" 4th Fight — Twelve dogs against a strong and fur.'ous 
" Opeloussas Bull. 

" If the Tiger is not vanquished in his fight with the Bear, 
<( he will be sent alone against the last Bull; and if the latter 
•*}. conquers all his enemies, several pieces of fire-works will 
" be placed on his back, which will produce a very enter- 
'« taining amusement. 

" In the Circus will be placed two Manakins, which, not- 
t* withstanding the efforts of the Balls to throw them down, 
" will always rise again, whereby the animals will get 
" furious. 



LAWS AT NEW ORLEANS. TJ5 

%i The doors will be opened at three and the Exhibition 
<i begin at four o'clock precisely. *> 

" Admittance, one dollar for grown persons, and 50 cents 
<5 for children. 

" A military band will perform during the Exhibition. 

4< If Mr. Renault is so happy as to amuse the spectators 
*' by that new spectacle, he will use every exertion to diver- 
*' sify and augment it, in order to prove to a generous 
ci public, whose patronage has been hitherto so kindly be- 
<( stowed upon him, how anxious he is to please them." 

I visited the theatre: it is an old building, 
about two-thirds the size of the little theatre in 
the Haymarket. The play was " John of 
" Calais/ 5 well performed by a French com- 
pany to a French audience. At a tavern op- 
posite I witnessed a personal conflict, in which 
I suppose one of the parties was dirk 9 d. These 
things are of every-day occurrence ; and it is 
not often that they are taken cognizance of by 
the police. 

I was present at a criminal trial : the pleadings 
were a mixture of French and English. The jury 
consisted of ten French, and two Americans. 
The counsel were equally divided, being two of 
each language: the judge was American. The 
French counsel requested leave to quote the code 
Napoleon, w r hich was granted, on condition that 
he should explain to the French part of the 
jury that it was not law, and that he adduced 
it on the same principle that he would the 
works of a poet, merely to illustrate his ideas. 
The English law is the law of Louisiana, with 

t 2 



276 SLAVE REGULATIONS, 

such additions as local circumstances have ren- 
dered necessary ; one of which that was cited 
upon this occasion, is a law against " biting 
" off the ear, the nose, tearing out the eyes," &c. 
I was proceeding to remark upon the condi- 
tion of negroes in Louisiana, but an official docu- 
ment lying before me upon the subject, I pre- 
fer forwarding to you, without *note or com- 
ment, except to observe that such regulations 
as these exist in spirit throughout nine at least, 
if not eleven more of the State republics ! 

" CITY COUNCIL OF NEW ORLEANS. 

" An ordinance in relation to slaves in the city and suburbs 
<c of New Orleans, as also in the neighbourhood thereof, 
" and to no other persons herein mentioned, 

" The City Council ordains as follows : 
" Art. 1. No slave or slaves within the city and sub- 
" urbs of New Orleans, and the neighbourhood thereof, shall 
" have, hold, occupy, reside or sleep in any house, out- 
" house, building or enclosure, other than his or her 
" owner's, or his or her owner's representatives, or of the 
" person whom he is or they are serving for hire, without 
" first obtaining a ticket or tickets from his, her, or their 
(( owner or owners, expressly describing the place which 
" such slave or slaves is or are allowed respectively to oc- 
" cupy, reside, or sleep in; and specifying also the time 
** during which the aforesaid permission or permissions is or 
" are granted; and every slave holding, occupying, resid- 
*' ing or sleeping in any house, out-house, building or en- 
" closure, without obtaining the permission aforesaid, shall 
«* be committed to the gaol by any officer of police, or any 
*' other white person, there to receive twenty lashes, on a 
" warrant from the mayor, or from a justice of the peace, 
" unless the owner or owners of such slave or slaves shall pre* 



SLAVE REGULATIONS. 277 

tc viously pay a fine of five dollars for each of them, ivith all 
" costs and charges. 

" Art. 6. The assemblies of slaves for the purpose of 
" dancing or other merriment, shall take place only on 
" Sundays, and solely in such open or public places as shall 
" be appointed by the mayor ; and no such assembly shall 
" continue later than sunset ; and all slaves who shall be 
" found assembled together on any other day than Sunday, 
" or who, even on that day, shall continue their dances 
" after sunset, shall be taken up by the officers of police, 
" constables, watchmen or other white persons, and shall 
" be lodged in the public gaol, where they shall receive from 
" 10 to 25 lashes, on a warrant from the mayor or a justice 
'* of the peace ; the clauses specified in the preceding article 
" against all owners or occupants of houses or lots, forming 
" or tolerating such assemblies on their premises, being in 
" full force against them. 

" Art. 7. No person giving a hall to free people of 
€t colour shall, on any pretext, admit or suffer to be admitted 
" to said ball any slave, on penalty of a fine from 10 to 50 
w dollars ; and any slave admitted to any such ball shall re- 
s< ceive 15 lashes, 

** Art. 8. Every slave, except such as may be blind or 
" infirm, who shall walk in any street or open place with a 
". cane, club, or other stick, shall be carried to the police 
" gaol, where he shall receive 25 lashes, and shall moreover 
" forfeit every such cane, club or other stick, to any white 
" person seizing the same ; and every slave carrying any 
" arms whatever, shall be punished in the manner pre- 
" scribed by the Black Code of this State. 

«' Art. 9. If any slave shall be guilty of whooping or 
" hallooing any where in the city and suburbs, or of making 
" any clamorous noise, or of singing aloud any indecent 
" song, he or she shall for each and every such offence, re- 
" ceive at the police gaol, on a warrant from the mayor, or 
*' any justice of peace, a number of 20 lashes or stripes ; 
" and if any such offence be committed on board any vessel, 
" the master or commander thereof shall forfeit and pay a 
il sum of 20 dollars for each and every such offence. 

T 3 



^78 PROVISIONS. 

'■' Art. 10. Every slave tvho shall be guilty of disrespect 
6i towards any white person, or shall insult any free person, 
" shall receive 30 lashes, upon an order from the mayor, 
61 or justice of the peace. 

" Art. IS. The present ordinance shall be printed in the 
" usual Gazettes, and shall moreover be published by drum- 
" beat, within the city and suburbs twice-a-week during fif- 
" teen days, and once every month, after that time. 

J. SO ULIE, Recorder. 
i( Approved, October 15th, 1817. 

« AUG. MAC ARTY, 
« Nov. 3. Mayor." 

Provisions are of very bad quality, and most 
enormously dear. Hams and cheese from Eng- 
land, potatoes, butter, and beef from Ireland, 
are common articles of import. Cabbages are 
now ten-pence per head ; turkeys, three to five 
dollars each. Rents are also very extravagant. 
Yet to all men whose desire only is to be rich, 
and to live a short life but a merry one, I have 
no hesitation in recommending New Orleans. 

Proposing at once to transport you to the city 
from which part of this is written, that of Wash- 
ington, I have only now to take a general retro- 
spect. With regard, then, to the western coun- 
try generally, let me first observe upon the strong 
evidence which it affords of increasing national 
wealth, strength and population. This, indeed, 
is striking to a degree which has been the sub- 
ject of astonishment in various ways. The rapid 
ratio of its increase, the maturity of its establish- 



WESTERN COUNTRY. ' c S/9 

ments, the ignorance of 1 real freedom among the 
people, the immense advantages resulting from 
an enlightened political constitution, and the 
probable future condition of this part of the Ame- 
rican continent, are all themes calculated to ex- 
cite speculation, and each affords abundant 
sources for reflection. Throughout the western 
country, there are many men of real, but more 
of fictitious capital. In their occupations they 
are not confined to any one particular pursuit, 
the same person often being farmer, store and 
hotel-keeper, land-jobber, brewer, steam-boat 
owner, and slave-dealer. In their characters 
they bear evidence of this diversified, though, 
I think, but in few instances able application of 
talent. They talk much of American genius, 
persuading themselves that because they were 
born on this continent, there is prepared for 
them, in every department of knowledge, a 
royal road. All are speculators ; and each man 
anticipates making a fortune, not by patient in- 
dustry and upright conduct, but by " a lucky 
" hit/' Should he be disappointed, the conse- 
quences must, of course, fall upon his creditors; 
but neither those who suffer by his failure, nor 
his neighbours, nor himself, attach to him any 
kind of disrespect for the transaction. 1 wit- 
nessed some whose success had been astonish- 
ing, both as to amount, and the rapidity with 
which it had been collected ; as, indeed, must 

t 4 



280 MERCHANTS AND TRADERS, 

ever be the ease with a speculating people in a 
new country, particularly in one unburthened 
with taxes, and in which the habits of trade are 
yet unsettled. Merchants and tradesmen bear 
little or no similitude to those of England :- 
their diversified pursuits, and migrating cha- 
racter, cause them to possess more general but 
less particular and substantial knowledge. The 
impression which they convey on first acquaint- 
ance, is that of being well-informed, and com- 
paratively enlightened : but this wears of? upon 
more intimate acquaintance, if, at least, by 
the expressions well-bifbrmed and enlightened 
we should imply men of reading or of thought, 
men possessed of sound information, who take 
large views, who feel liberally towards men 
of opposite sentiments, and attached to the ge- 
neral cause of human happiness : looked at in 
tliis point of view, they are, in truth, any thing 
but enlightened. This order of men, the mer- 
chant and tradesman, here generally compose 
the second, some of them rank in the first class 
of society. Though residing in a republic, they 
are, in fact, more really aristocratic than English- 
men similarly circumstanced. The mechanic in 
this country is naturally an important character, 
the more so if the town or settlement in which 
he resides be of recent establishment. If in- 
dustrious and economical, his earnings soon 
place him on an equality with the second-rate 



TOWNS. 281 

tradesmen ; and should he feel disposed for 
agriculture, and be willing to forego the comforts 
of a town life, he may purchase a tract of land, 
which, if judiciously selected, will in the course 
of twenty years make him a rich man. I saw 
many families in this part of the Union in rags 
and wretchedness : but there is this peculiarity 
about American poverty — it seems free from 
anxiety, exhibiting a total carelessness about the 
future, and apparently leaving the morrow to 
provide for itself. 

Towns which are of any importance, are not 
what we understand by " county towns:" they 
are miniature cities, containing numerous first- 
rate brick buildings, all new, very neat in their 
exterior, and always high rented. Town pro- 
perty is as high as in Philadelphia, and more so 
than in London. The tide of emigration, it 
should be observed, is eternally changing its 
course. The attractions of Ohio are now lost 
in those of Missouri, Alabama, and Illinois. 
Lexington was, a short time since, the general 
magnet : its advances towards prosperity have 
now, however, ceased to be rapid, and property 
there has become stationary in value, whilst at 
Louisville it is rising prodigiously. This last- 
mentioned place, with St. Louis on the Missouri, 
promise to be ranked among the first towns in 
the western States. Provisions in the country 
are cheap, and groceries and clothing enor- 



282 PRICES. BANKS. 

mously high in price. In towns, 25 per cent. 
may be added to the former, and the same, per- 
haps, deducted from the latter ; though, at the 
lowest market, you would be surprised at the 
charges, arising from the high price of labour, 
combined with the extraordinary fact, that the 
crockery, hardware, linens, cottons, and wool- 
lens, which fill the log-stores of even the most 
remote parts in the wilderness, are imported 
from Great Britain. 

Banks, as I have before remarked, are ex- 
tremely numerous. They afford, to an unlimited 
extent, all the facilities within the possible ca- 
pacity of an immense paper currency. But 
still even this species of capital is rarely em- 
ployed in agricultural pursuits : it is engrossed 
by town lots, building, steam-boats, and mill- 
seats ; in any of which occupations there is cer- 
tainly a profitable opening for the European 
capitalist. 

Without further dwelling on this country, or 
on my journey, I shall now at once take you to 

WASHINGTON. 

It has been so fashionable with natives, as 

well as foreigners, to ridicule the federal city, 

that I had anticipated the reality of Moore's 

description of 

" This famed metropolis, where fancy sees 
ic Squares in morasses, obelisks in trees." 

But in this I was pleasingly disappointed. 



WASHINGTON. — THE CAPITOL. 285 

The river Potowmac, at this place, is only na- 
vigable for small craft Bear its banks* Besides 
the Potowmac, the River " Tiber" runs through 
the city; its stream is about the width of 
the Paddington canal. The ridiculous, though 
characteristic vanity displayed in altering it 
from the original name of " Goose Creek," 
to that of the Tiber, has been happily exposed 
by Moore. 

The President's house, and the Capitol, si- 
tuated on opposite hills, are the chief public 
buildings, both of which were nearly destroyed 
by the buccaneering incursions of our country- 
men, who acted, perhaps, agreeably to their 
orders, but certainly in opposition to the feel- 
ings, judgment, and character of the British 
people. These buildings are now rapidly rising 
into increased splendour. The Capitol, in which 
are both houses of the legislature, and several 
public offices, stands on a bank of the Po- 
towmac, seventy feet above the level of that 
river ; it as yet consists of but two wings, in- 
tended to be connected by a centre, surmounted 
by a dome. The architect is Mr. Latrobe: 
In the internal construction of this building, he 
has not evinced even a common knowledge of 
what contributes to convenience, and still less to 
elegance of appearance. The apartments are 
small, crowded, and without unity of design : 
the exterior, when completed, will, however, 



£84 FOREIGN ORNAMENTS. 

^produce a really grand effect. Some of the pil- 
lars are of a native marble, of a peculiarly novel 
and beautiful description, bearing some resem- 
blance to the finest specimens of mosaic. The 
Americans, however, are not content with the 
productions of their own country: they have 
made large imports from Italy of its most ex- 
pensive marble; and so anxious is even the 
President himself for " foreign ornament," that 
he has imported chairs at one hundred dollars 
each, though the cabinet-makers of Baltimore 
would have equalled, and I believe surpassed 
them in every particular, at the price of sixty 
dollars ! 

The President's house is at the opposite end 
of " Pennsylvania Avenue/' commanding a most 
beautiful prospect. On each side of it stands a 
large brick building ; one of which is the trea- 
sury, the other the war and navy offices. These 
are to be connected with the palace, which, 
when completed, would form an ornament even 
to St. Petersburgh itself. Upon a second visit 
to the Capitol, 1 explored nearly all its recesses. 
Marks of the late conflagration are still very ap- 
parent, w T hile the walls bear evidence of public 
opinion in relation to that transaction, which 
seems to have had the singular fate of casting 
disgrace upon both the Americans and British, 
Some of the pencil drawings exhibit the mili- 
tary commander hanging upon a tree 5 others re* 



PATENT-OFFICE. — LlBfeAttY, &C. %85 

present the President running off without his hat 
or wig ; some, Admiral Cockburn robbing hen- 
roosts : to which are added such inscriptions as, 
16 The capital of the Union lost by cowardice ;" 

" Curse cowards -" " A sold the city 

" for 5000 dollars \" " James Madison is a ras- 
" cal, a coward, and a fool ;" " Ask no ques- 
ec tions," &c. 

The post-office is a large brick building, situ- 
ated at about equal distances from the President's 
house and the Capitol. Under the same roof is 
the patent-office, and also the national library, 
for the use of members of congress. In the first 
of these departments, I witnessed upwards of 
nine hundred specimens of native mechanical 
genius. This would appear to afford decisive 
proof, that Americans are not deficient in in- 
ventive talent, though it cannot be extensively, 
or with profit, called into action, until your 
little island ceases to be the universal workshop. 
The library is small, consisting of but 3000 
volumes; but it is select and well chosen, and 
includes various classes of literature, having 
been the property of Mr. Jefferson, for which 
he obtained from the United States 20,000 
dollars. The former library, containing from 
7 to 8000, was destroyed by our enlightened 
countrymen. So great has been, at some 
periods, the depreciation of property in this city, 
\l m I S02, what had originally cost 200,000 



m 



LOWER ORDERS. 



dollars, was sold for 25,000. This decay con- 
tinued to go on, until the visit of General Ross, 
and the subsequent signature of peace : since 
that time it seems to have risen, like the phcenix 
from the flames, and is once more partially in* 
creasing in prosperity. There are now a num- 
ber of two and three story brick buildings, none 
of which are uninhabited ; and also some small 
wooden houses, though, according to the ori- 
ginal plan, none were to be built less than three 
stories high, and all to have marble steps. But 
the childish folly of this scheme was soon sub- 
verted by the natural course of events \ and 
though the existence of " lower orders" ever, 
in the capital of the republic, may not accord 
with the vanity of its legislators, they ought to 
be told, that neither prosperity nor population 
can be possessed by any nation, without a due 
admixture of the natural classes of society. 

The population of Washington" city is stated 
to be about 9000 ; of Georgetown, 6000 ; of 
Alexandria, 8000 \ and of all other parts of the 
district of Columbia, 7000; making a total of 
30,000. Alexandria, which is seven miles from 
the city, may be considered the sea-port. 
Georgetown is the residence of shopkeepers, and 
Washington the depot for office-holders, place, 
hunters, and boarding-house keepers, none of 
whom would appear to be in possession of too 
much of this world's goods. Between these 



PRICES. £87 

three divisions of this district there exists con- 
siderable jealousy 9r 

prices, &c. 

There are three market-houses in Washington, 
and I believe, four market days per week. 
Negroes are the chief sellers. The supplies at 
this time are neither good nor various. Beef is 
from 3Jd. to 6Jd. per pound ; pork the same - 9 
potatoes, 3s. 41d. per bushel ; bread, #d. per 
pound ; beer, 6jd. per bottle ; milk, 5-§d. per 
quart ; tea, 4s. 6d. to 13s. 6d. per pound ; coffee, 
12fd. to I6d. ; sugar, from 54s. to 90s. per 
hundred. Rents are as high as elsewhere. 
Mechanics are fully employed, and well paid. 
Shopkeepers are too numerous, and none of 
them remarkably successful. British goods 
abound, as in every other part of America. 
When I had T>een here a few hours, I went to 
a store to purchase a pair of worsted gloves : 
they were of the commonest kind, such as are 
sold in London at 8s. 6d. per dozen. The price 
was half a dollar per pair. I presented a Phila- 
delphia one dollar note ; it would not be taken 
without a discount of 2j per cent. I then ten- 
dered a Baltimore bank, of the same amount. 
This being one hundred miles nearer was ac- 
cepted. The store-keeper had no silver change ; 
to remedy which, he took a pair of scissors and 



£88 PAPER MONEY. 

divided the note between us : I enquired if the 
half would pass, and being answered in the 
affirmative, took it without hesitation, knowing 
the want of specie throughout the country, 
and being previously familiarised with Spanish 
dollars cut into every variety of size. I now 
find that demi-notes are a common circulating 
medium. Capital is generally wanted, though 
my enquiries do not lead me to believe that it 
can be employed here with any thing more than 
ordinary advantage. The increase of the federal 
city cannot be rapid. Here is fine natural 
scenery, but no decidedly great natural advan- 
tages; little external commerce, a barren soil, 
a scanty population, enfeebled too by the deadly 
weight of absolute slavery, and no direct means 
of communication with the western country. 
For the apparently injudicious selection of such 
a spot, upon which to raise the capital of a great 
nation, several reasons are given. Some have even 
gone so far as to attribute to Gen. Washington, 
the influence of pecuniary interest, his property 
being in the neighbourhood. But the most com- 
mon argument adduced in support of the choice 
is that it is central, or rather that it was so ; for 
the recent addition of new States has removed 
the centre very far west, so much so indeed, that 
the inhabitants of Lexington affirm, that their 
town must on that ground soon become the 



SITE OF WASHINGTON. 289 

capital ; and even the people of St. Louis, in 
the Missouri, put in their claim, that city be- 
ing said to be geographically the exact centre 
of the Union. But assuming that Washington 
were central, I do not see much validity in the 
argument ; — at least if we are to be influenced in 
our judgment by any country in the old world — 
where is the important nation, whose capital is 
placed exactly in the centre of its dominions ? 
Spain is perhaps the only country which can 
be adduced, and no very favourable conclusion 
can be drawn from such *an instance : though 
unquestionably if rivers and soil, if roads and 
canals, all united to recommend that situation, 
it would be in some other respects extremely 
convenient -, but this not being the case, the 
knowledge of Euclid must be dispensed with 
for something of more practical, though perhaps 
more vulgar utility- 

There may be other objections to this capital : 
among them I would venture to suggest, that 
the legislators, and rulers of a nation, ought to 
reside in that city which has the most direct 
communication with all parts of their country, 
and of the world at large ; they ought to see 
with their own eyes, and hear with their own 
ears, without which, though possessed of the 
best intentions, they must often be in error. 
Newspaper communications, letters #nd agents, 
are but substitutes, and sometimes very poor 



290 VIRGINIAN DYNASTY. 

ones ; besides which, I conceive that mere ex- 
pedients should not be admitted in national legis- 
lation. Unless this city increases with a rapidity 
unsanctioned by the most sanguine anticipa- 
tion, the American law-makers will be half a 
century behind what they would become by a 
residence in New York or Philadelphia. Another 
objection to Washington may suggest itself to 
some minds, in its neighbourhood to Virginia. 
The " Virginian dynasty," as it has been called, 
is a subject of general, and I think very just 
complaint throughout other parts of America. 
This State has supplied four of the five presi- 
dents, and also a liberal number of occupants 
of every other government office. The Virgi- 
nians very modestly assert, that this monopoly 
does not proceed from corrupt influence, but is 
a consequence of the buoyancy and vigour of 
their natural talent. Without entering into the 
controversy, whether or not seventeen States can 
supply a degree of ability equal to that of Vir- 
ginia single-handed, I must express my want of 
respect for a State in which every man is either 
a slave-holder, or a defender of slavery — a State 
in which landed property is not attachable for 
debt — a State in which human beings are sold 
in the streets by the public auctioneer, are flogged 
without trial at the mercy of their owner or his 
agents, by whom indeed they may be murdered, 
almost without punishment ;— yet these men dare 



CUSTOMS. DRAWING-ROOM, 291 

to call themselves democrats, and friends of 
liberty ! — from such democrats, and such friends 
of liberty, good Lord deliver us ! 

The customs of society at this season differ, 
I presume, in some degree, from those portions 
of the year when congress is not sitting. Tea 
parties, and private balls, are now very frequent. 
Mr. Bagot, the English ambassador, and his lady, 
are particularly assiduous in their attentions to 
all classes, and maintain a strict conformity with 
the habits of the place. Their cards of invita- 
tion are left at my boarding-house for different 
gentlemen every day. The Speaker (Mr. Clay) 
gives public periodical dinners. A drawing- 
room is held weekly at the President's house : 
it is generally crowded. There is little or no 
difficulty in getting introduced on these occa- 
sions. Mr. Munroe is a very plain, practical 
man of business. The custom is shaking, and 
not the degrading one of kissing, hands. Con- 
versation, tea, ice, music, chewing tobacco, and 
excessive spitting, afford employment for the 
evening. The dress of the ladies is very elegant, 
though that of the gentlemen is too frequently 
rather ungentlemanly. 

The theatre is a miserable building. I have 
attended several representations in it by the 
same company which I saw when in Pittsburgh. 
Incledon has been here — the Washington critics 

u 2 



292 INDIAN JUGGLER. — COMFORT' 

think him too vulgar, and also an indifferent 
singer ! 

In this city I witnessed also the exhibitions of 
Sema Sama> the Indian juggler, frohl London, 
My chief attention was directed to the audience ; 
their disbelief of the possibility of performing 
the numerous feats advertised, and their incon- 
ceivable surprise at witnessing the actual achieve- 
ment, appeared extreme, — approaching almost 
to childish wonder and astonishment. 

The few private families to which I have had 
introductions, do not evince a more accurate 
knowledge of that English word comfort than I 
have remarked elsewhere ; indeed, I would class 
them a century inferior to Boston and half a cen- 
tury behind New York. The boarding-houses 
and inns partake of the same characteristics, 
I first applied at the chief, which is Davis's 
Indian Queen tavern : most of the door-handles 
are broken ; the floor of the coffee-room is 
strewed with bricks and mortar, caused bv the 
crumbling of the walls and ceiling ; and the cha- 
racter of the accommodations is in unison with 
this unorganised state of things : the charges are 
as high as at the very first London hotel. 

Mr. Law, brother of Lord Ellenborough, re- 
sides here, and is the owner of numerous houses. 

Mr. H , a Lancashire cotton-bleacher and 

friend of Mr. Cobbett, has lately emigrated 
to this country, and has been recently here 3 



MR. COBBETT. 293 

endeavouring to induce this government to lay 
double duties on all British goods : , what his 
success has been I have not learned. 

Observing the following statements in the 
Philadelphia Aurora, I forward them to you, as 
shewing Mr. Cobbett's impressions of the Penn- 
sylvanian government. 

" FROM THE HARRIS BURG ORACLE. 

« THE CASE OF WILLIAM COBBETT. 

" While the subject was before the senate on Tuesday 
** and Wednesday last, considerable discussion took place, 
6( advocated chiefly by Mr. Lowrie, and opposed by Messrs. 
" Reed of Westmoreland, C. Smith, Reed of Philadelphia, 
" and B. R. Morgan. And on the question of agreeing to 
" the resolution, it was negatived. — Ayes 9. Nays 20. 

-«* Immediately after this decision, Mr. Cobbett, who was 
" present during the debate, walked up to the Speaker's 
" chair and handed the following to the speaker, which was 
" read and laid on the table. 

" To the Honourable the Senate and House of Represent- 
" atives of the Commonivealth of Pennsylvania, in Gene- 
<( ral Assembly met. 

" The Petition of William Cobbett, an Englishman, this 
« 19th day of February, 1818, 

" MOST RESPECTFULLY SHEWETH : 

" That your petitioner has heard with inexpressible sur- 
*' prise that the senate of the commonwealth has rejected 
" the petition lately presented to that honourable body by 
*' your petitioner ; that seeing the flagrant enormity of the 
•« injustice of which he complained, he confidently hopes 
** that such rejection has arisen from some great misunder- 
" standing as to the circumstances of the case ; that he, 
** therefore, most respectfully, but most earnestly, prays 
*« that the honourable senate will, without loss of time, be 
" pleased to permit him to appear in person at the bar of 
6i their honourable house, there to support the prayer of his 

u 3 



%9& MR. COBBETT. 

" said petition ; that he feels the more confidence in the 
" making of this respectful request, since it appears that his 
" petition has been opposed upon arguments drawn from the 
" laws and usages of England, where similar requests, under 
" similar circumstances, are never refused ; and he finally 
u begs leave to be permitted to state (which he does with 
" the most profound respect) that a sense of duty towards 
" his beloved country and his Sovereign, his love of truth 
" and justice, his attachment to real and his hatred of sham 
" freedom, are the principal motives of this his most respect- 
" ful petition, 

'* Wm. Cobbett." 

" to the editor of the aurora. 

" Philadelphia, 23d February, 1-818. 

" Sir, — I have read, in the Democratic Press of this day? 
** an article, purporting to be an < extract of a letter from 
." Harrisburg ** in which extract it is said, that, after that 
« most honourable body, the senate, had refused to hear me 
" at its bar, in support of my petition, another petition was 
" presented by me to the house of representatives ; that this 
" petition was, by some of the members, thought ' to cast a 
" reflection on the political institutions'* of this country ; but 
M that, the subject was an important one, and that, * if the 
" individual could be forgotten, it would, perhaps, be viewed 
" in a different light.* 

" This, Sir, is a pretty sort of shuffle indeed I So, because 
u I complain of great and shocking injustice, suffered by me, 
" under these institutions, I am to be accused of casting 
" reflections on the institutions themselves, and, on the ground 
6i of that accusation, my claim is to be rejected ! — This mode 
" of arguing is a. finisher as to all petitions for redress of 
" grievances. No, no, Sir ! It is not the * individual con- 
«' cerned' that needs to be 'forgotten.' Say, rather, the 
" six thousand three hundred and seventy-three dollars. If 
" these could be forgotten, the writer of the extract would, 
" I fancy, view the matter in the right line in a moment. 

" It is impossible, Sir, for this stain on the government of 



MR. COBBETT. &§5 

s< the State to be wiped away without the doing of complete 
" justice. I can perceive, clearly enough, what some per- 
{i sons think will do. They are gently preparing the way for 
"hushing the people by recommending an act to prevent the 
" like in future ; and thus, to keep the dollars, and, at the 
a same time, as they imagine, to remove the odium. You 
" remember, I dare say, the story of La Fontaine's Nun, 
il who, having had one bastard, became a virgin for the rest 
" of her life! 

" I am, Sir, 

" Your most humble, 

" And most obedient servant, . 

" Wm. Cobbett." 

Mr. H. informs me that he was with Mr. C. at 
Harrisburg; that Mr. C. declares that during 
the several years which he resided near the 
Treasury in London, he did not witness so much 
bribery, corruption, and place-hunting as he had 
seen in one week in Pennsylvania ; that the 
members of the legislature were engaged in 
little except smoking, drinking, and gamblings 
and that he could certainly have carried his 
point had he condescended to bribe. In all these 
opinions Mr. H. joins his friend. 

Although I cannot go the length of Mr. H. 
and Mr. Cobbett in their wholesale censures, 
perhaps from not having had the same oppor- 
tunities with them of forming a judgment, yet 
I have become acquainted with facts in Wash- 
ington which no man could have induced me to 
believe without personal observation. 



u 4 



296 STATE OF MANUFACTORIES. 



MANUFACTURES OF THE UNITED STATES. 

The object of Mr. H.'s visit to the capital is 
one of high national importance, and in which I 
should have individually felt much interested at 
an earlier period of my acquaintance with this 
country ; but I am now, after the most deliberate 
examination, convinced that our Yorkshire and 
Leicestershire friends could not profitably suc- 
ceed as manufacturers. This opinion is amply 
borne out by memorials to congress from various 
parts of the Union, and in these documents it 
is essential to remark that the request is not 
for Government to erect new establishments, 
but to protect those "which are in existence from 
utter ruin. The memorial from Oneida county, 
in the State of New York, contains the following 
striking passages : 

*' A Memorial presented to the Senate of the United States, 
« January 7, 1818. 

li To the Honourable the Senate and House of Repre~ 
" sentatives of the United States, in Congress assembled, 
" the Petition of the Inhabitants of the County of Oneida* 
" in the State df New York, as well Manufacturers as 
" Others, 

" RESPECTFULLY SHEWETH : 

" That the above county contains a greater number of 
" manufacturing establishments, of cotton and woollen, than 
" any county in the State, there being invested in said esta- 
" blishments at least 600,000 dollars. 

" That although the utmost efforts have been made by 



STATE OF MANUFACTORIES. 297 

tC the proprietors to sustain those establishments, their 
" efforts have proved fruitless, and more than three-fourths of 
ic the factories remain necessarily closed, some of the pro- 
" prietors being wholly ruined, and others struggling under 
i( the greatest embarrassments. 

" In this alarming situation, we beg leave to make a last 
" appeal to the Congress of the United States. While we 
" make this appeal, at the present crisis, the extensive em- 
" barrassments in most of the great departments of industry, 
" as well as the peculiar difficulty in affording immediate re- 
" lief to manufacturers, are fully seen and appreciated. Yet 
" your petitioners cannot believe that the legislature of the 
" Union will remain an indifferent spectator of the wide- 
({ spread ruin of their fellow-citize?is, and look on, and see a 
" great branch of industry, of the utmost importance in 
" every community, prostrated under circumstances fatal to 
" all future attempts at revival, without a further effort for 
ct relief. We would not magnify the subject, which we now 
" present to Cdngress, beyond its just merits, when we state 
" it to be one of the utmost importance to the future interests 
" and welfare of the United States. 

" We hope to find excuse in the importance of the sub- 
" ject, for submitting to the consideration of Congress the 
" following principles of political economy, which have been 
<{ adopted by the most enlightened governments, and are 

" deemed not altogether unapplicable to the United States. 
" That the public good requires of government to restrain, 

Ci by duties, the importation of articles which may be pro- 

ti duced at home, and to manufacture as much as possible of 

" the rain material of the country. 

" That the branches of industry particularly necessary or 

" useful to the independence of the community ought to be 

i( encouraged by government. 

*' That the most disadvantageous commerce is that which 

" exchanges the raw material for manufactured goods. 

" That any nation who should open its ports to all foreign 

" importations, without a reciprocal privilege, woidd soon be 

; ' ruined by the balance qf trade. 

" The policy of Great Britain, in support of which, no 



298 STATE OF MANUFACTORIES. 

" wars, however bloody, no expense, however enormous, 
" are too great a sacrifice, ought never to be lost sight 
" of by the United States. That nation assumes to manu* 
i( facture for all nations, but "will receive the manufactures of 
" none. 

" But let no one imagine that a general system qfmanu- 
li factures is noiu proposed to be introduced into the United 
" States, We tvould be understood as limiting our views to 
" the manufactories already established ; to save those xvhich 
<f have not already fallen, from the ruin which threatens them, 

*' It might have been expected, that the present fallen 
". condition of manufactures would have soothed prejudice 
" and disarmed hostility. With all their alleged war profits, 
(( there are now none so poor. Is it not seen, that the 
*' destruction of the present manufactories must inevitably 
" produce the same evils of extravagant prices in the event 
" of a future war, as were experienced in the last. 

" It is objected, that the entire industry of the country 
" may be most profitably exerted in clearing and cultivating 
" our extended vacant lands. But what does it avail the 
" farmer, when neither in the nation from which he purchases 
" his goods, nor elsewhere, can he find a market for his abun- 
" dant crops. Besides, the diversion of labour from agri- 
" culture to manufactures, is scarcely perceptible. Five or 
" six aduks, with the aid of children, will manage a cotton 
" manufactory of two thousand spindles. 

" From the gloomy condition of the manufacturers, the 
" mind, turning to another quarter, is cheered with the 
" brightest prospects to others. In the more southern 
" States, it is believed, that the amount received, during 
" the last year, from the export of two or three articles 
«' of agricultural produce only, exceeds forty millions of 
" dollars." 

The manufacturers of Baltimore use not dis- 
similar language. 

The amount of capital, real or fictitious, said 
to have been employed (though I suspect erro- 



MANUFACTURES. 299 

neously) in manufacturing establishments pre- 
vious to the late peace, is the following : 

Hats, - - - - - sft2,000,000 

Iron, - - - - - 2,500,000 

Leather, - - - - 4,000,000 

Cotton and Wool, - - - 10,000,000 

Spirituous Liquors, - - - 3,000,000 

Wood, - - - - - 500,000 
Soap, Candles, Tallow, Oil, Sugar, &c. 600,000 



s£22,600,000 



Total amount of capital employed in all the 
manufactories of the United States 22,600,000L 
At present this must be greatly reduced ; per- 
haps even two-thirds would not be too large a 
deduction. Fine sites for cotton and woollen 
factories exist in every State which I have visited : 
the Falls of Pasaic, near New York, cannot, for 
such purposes, be exceeded. Mr. Casey, lately 
of Liverpool, is endeavouring to form a cotton- 
twist establishment at that place. 

Much diversity of opinion exists amongst 
Americans as to the policy which it would be 
desirable their government should pursue with 
regard to domestic manufactures ; and it would 
still appear to remain an unsolved question among 
them, whether the strong arm of government 
should or should not, in the present infant stage 
of the republic, be held out to protect and en- 



300 MANUFACTURES. 

courage those establishments, by the usual 
means of bounties on the one hand, and duties 
or prohibitions on the other ? Mr. Jefferson 
originally took the negative side of this ques- 
tion : he wished Americans to remain a nation 
of agriculturists, deprecating the time when 
that people should be changed from " robust 
" and virtuous farmers, into deformed, sickly, 
" and profligate- manufacturers :" but it should 
now seem, from his letter to the " American 
" Society for encouraging Manufactures," and 
also from another letter of his, inserted by Mr. 
Mellish in a pamphlet he has recently written 
at, I am informed, the dictation of Mr. Hulme, 
that he (Mr. J.) has changed his opinions. 

The general arguments against manufactures 
are, that their encouragement will enhance the 
price of clothing : that this will operate as a 
heavy tax upon the whole community, for the 
benefit of but a few : that the revenue of the 
United States would be materially injured, as its 
chief supply is from duties on imports : that in 
an extensive country, with but a scanty popu- 
lation, it is most beneficial to direct the mass of 
labour to the clearing of new lands, and other 
agricultural pursuits : that by so doing they will 
make greater and more rapid advances in extent 
of population and amount of national wealth, 
than by drawing off a part of their capital and 
labour, and devoting it to purposes of manufac- 



MANUFACTURES, 301 

ture j more especially while most of the articles 
wanted can be imported from England 30 to 
50 per cent, cheaper than it is possible for them 
to be produced within the Union : that as 
labour is so high and land so cheap, there is an 
ever-existing inducement for men to leave fac- 
tories, and free themselves from masters, to be- 
come lords of their own domain : and that this 
has been uniformly found to be the case, — the 
slow advance of manufactures, and the conse- 
quent high price of the articles having been a 
natural result of the situation of the country: 
that, in a word, it is the true interest of Ame- 
rica to continue supplying Europe with raw 
material and with agricultural produce, both of 
which find there a certain market, while labour 
is from £5 to 50 per cent, higher than in England, 
and from 50 to 'J 5 niore than on the European 
continent. 

On the manufacturer's side of this truly great 
national question is Mr. De Witt Clinton, go- 
vernor of New York : in a speech which has had 
few equals in comprehensive and philosophic 
views, addressed to the legislature, he makes 
the following able reflections : 

" The excessive importation of foreign fa- 
" brics was the signal of ruin to institutions 
" founded by enterprising industry, reared by 
" beneficial skill, and identified with the ge- 
" neral welfare. The raw materials of iron, 
6 



302 MANUFACTURES. 

" woollen, and cotton manufactures are ab-un- 
" dant, and those for the minor and auxiliary 
" ones, can, in most cases, be procured at home 
" with equal facility. Nothing is wanting to 
" destroy foreign competition but the steady 
" protection of the government, and the public 
" spirit of the country. High duties, and pro- 
" hibiting provisions applied to foreign produc- 
" tions, afford the most efficient encouragement 
" to our manufactures : and these measures 
" appertain to the legitimate functions of the 
" national government. — But much maybe done 
" by the State government, by liberal aceommo- 
" dations, by judicious exemptions, and by the 
" whole weight of its influence ; and much more 
" may be accomplished by the spirit of the com- 
" munity. For I am persuaded, that if every 
"citizen who adopts the fabrics of other na- 
" tions, would seriously consider that he is not 
" only paying taxes for the support of foreign 
" governments, but that he participates in un- 
" dermining one of the main pillars of our 
" productive industry, he would imitate the 
" honourable practice which you have this day 
" evinced in favour of American manufactures. w 
Mr. Mellish stands forth prominent in this 
discussion : his picture of present distress, if 
well founded, would be truly deplorable. For 
myself, I have seen nothing in the district of 
Philadelphia, or indeed throughout America, 

5 



MANUFACTURES. 303 

which justifies his calculation, " that nearly one- 
" fourth of the whole population are engaged in 
" unproductive labour ;" but as I wish to put 
you in possession of the materials from which I 
draw my conclusions, I forward you Mr. Mel- 
lish's ideas in his own words : 

" Failures, 5 * he says, " innumerable have 
" taken, and are taking, place ; and the com- 
" mercial character of the country is sunk and 
" degraded in consequence. The surplus wealth 
" of the country is drained off, to support our 
« rivals in Britain ; and, in many districts of 
" the country, a great portion of the citizens 
" are at a loss for employment! Yes, in this 
" very country, this industrious population are 
" absolutely at a loss for something to do. It 
" is really painful to contemplate the picture ; 
" but contemplate it we must ; for in no other 
H way can we do justice to the subject. 

" This melancholy picture pervades the coun- 
" try throughout, less or more ; but it is very 
" prominent on the Atlantic coast, and parti-- 
" cularly in and about the great commercial 
" cities. It is calculated that, in Philadelphia 
" city and county, at least 15,000 people, all 
"able and willing to work, are either idle, or 
" occupied in unproductive labour. The pro- 
" portion along the seabord is probably equal to 
" this, through its whole extent ; and half this 
" proportion may be the estimate for all the 
" other parts of the country. 



504* MANUFACTURES. 

" This will give, along the Atlantic coast, about 150,000 

" And in other parts 350,000 

" Making a population, in all, who have either 

" nothing to do, or are engaged in unpro- 

" ductive labour, of 500,000 

" Now, by looking at the last census of the • — ' 

" U. S. we will see that the whole popula- 

" tion } s - - - - - - - 7,239,903 

'* Of these, the free white males, between 16 

" and 45, amount to 1,119,944 

" Females - - - - . - - . 1,105,824 

Total 2,225,768 

" This we may assume as the number of in- 
habitants in the U. S. fit for productive labour ; 
and we find, that if the estimate of those who 
are rendered unproductive by existing cir- 
cumstances be correct, it amounts to nearly 
one-fourth part of the whole !" 
How these statements of want, of ruin, and of 
unproductive labour, can be reconciled with a 
romance in two volumes, called, " Travels in 
" America," by the same author, I am at a loss 
to conjecture. It is not to be denied, that there 
may be individuals unprofitably employed, but, 
I believe, there is no person in health, and dis- 
posed to labour, but what may, at this moment, 
obtain advantageous work in America. To con- 
clude—upon this subject of manufactures, as far 
as I have been enabled to form an opinion, I 
should incline to think that it is not now the 
interest of the United States, artificially to en- 



DOMESTIC EXPENDITURE. 805 

courage their growth, by granting them peculiar 
advantages. It appears at any rate certain, that 
in the present state of things, none of our friends 
could engage in the cotton or woollen establish- 
ments without a certainty of loss. 

DOMESTIC EXPENDITURE, 

Perhaps some useful information upon the 
Important subject of domestic expenditure may 
be derived from the two following statements. 
The first is a list of household furniture, which 
was sold by auction in Chesnet-street, Phila- 
delphia, by order of the sheriff for the payment 
of rent, at the sale of which I was present. 
None of the articles were very old, but nearly 
all were in bad condition. The second is a 
statement of Mr. H— — 's expences for six 
months, ending the first of March 1813, This 
gentleman is an English emigrant £ the account 
he allowed me to copy from his petty ledger, 
and is, I presume, correct. 

sheriff's sale in chesnut>street. 

Amounts in English Currency. 

I. s. d^ 

12 Chairs, (wood, painted,) each * - - 5 10 

A small writing-desk - - - - - 1 S 

A lady's work-box - - • - - -090 

2 Plated candlesticks and snuffers - - • 18 6 

A bed-room looking-glass - - - -0180 

A small toilet table - - - - - - 4 9 

A mahogany wash-hand stand - - - -0 1 48 

4 Pair linen sheets, (Irish,) per pair - - - i 1. 4?- 

X 



'■- 


- 5 


4 





- 


- 1 


G 


6 


- 


- 2 





6 


- 


- 2 





6 


- 


- 7 


8 





- 


- 


2 


6 



306 SALE OF FURNITURE. 

Amounts in English Currency; 

I. s. £ 

Cotton counterpane, (12 quarters square,) -2 2. 3 

Marseilles quilt, (ditto,) - - - - 2 2 S 

Bed curtains, lined with blue, for a small four-post 

bedstead - - - - - - -616 

(The furniture print was by John Low, calico- 
printer, of Manchester, and worth, in England, 
15£d. per yard. The lining worth about 14<d. 
per yard.) 

A large and good hair mattress 

A straw ditto - 

A breakfast-table - - - - 

A card-table - - - - 

An English Brussels carpet and rug 

A feather-bed, at per pound 

2 vols. Edgeworth's Patronage, Scott's Lady of 
the Lake, Byron's Childe Harold, and Curran's 
Speeches - - - - - ~ - S 4f- 
No Auction duty. 

MR. H 'S EXPENSES FOR SIX MONTHS. 

This family consists of thirteen : Mr. H- , Mrs. H ,. 

three Misses H , sixteen years of age and upwards, two 

ditto, younger, four boys, four to twelve years of age, one 
woman-servant, one girl. 

They occupy the whole (store excepted) of an excellent 
house in Market-street, Philadelphia; in it there are 13 
rooms, kitchen included, and three cellars. The rent is 500 
dollars per annum. The following account is for the first 
six months of their residence in the United States. It in- 
cludes rent, and what little clothes the females may have 
found necessary to purchase, in consequence of the difference 
of American fashions ; also abwit one hundred dollars for 
travelling expenses. Their style of living is extremely plain, 
respectable, and economical. 

1817, Dollars. Cents. 

Sept. 1st. to 8th. One week's board and lodging 

at a boarding-house - - - 80 

Sept. 8th. Wood, (for firing) - - - 19 76 



Dollars. Cents. 


- 9 


50 


- 199 


6 


- 21 


18 


- 149 


2 


- 39 


39 


- 25 


50 


- 221 


36 


- 15 


65 


' *5 





- 5 





- 21 


50 


- 50 





- 39 


50 


- 388 


37 


r 12 





1313 


79 



VETERANS OF- THE DEVOLUTION. SO? 



Wine and spirits - 

Other expenses - 

Wood, (firing) 

Other expenses - - - 

Wood, (firing) - 

Shoes - - - - 

Other expenses - - - 

Schooling, (for two boys) 

Wine and spirits - 

Aurora newspaper - 

Schooling, (eldest boy) 

Wood, (firing) - 

Ditto Ditto - 

Other expenses - - - 

Schooling, (for two boys) 

Total, 1st Sept. 1817 to March 1818, 



This account does not include the expenditure for house- 
hold furniture : they have paid for Scotch carpeting, yard 
wide, (commonest qualities) 170 cents per yard ; stair car- 
peting, narrow, strong, and common, of domestic manufac- 
ture, 100 cents per yard ; oil-cloth, yard wide, 175 cents per 
yard; Windsor chairs, 216 cents each ; fancy rush bottoms, 
light and genteel, 375 cents each. 

VETERANS OF THE REVOLUTION. 

I have been highly interested upon several 
occasions, by being in company with some of 
the veterans of the revolution. There is a some- 
thing in the associations connected with that 
immortal cause, which attracts insensibly towards 
those who were engaged in it feelings of respect 
— almost of reverence. The attention of the 
government has lately been directed towards 

x c 2 



308 REVOLUTIONARY CLAIMS. 

these men in consequence of discussions which 
have taken place in congress relative to what is 
called " Revolutionary Claims :" these claims 
are for monies advanced, or services rendered, 
which have never been repaid or recompensed. 
The leader of this poor but sacred band of 
national creditors, is General St Clair. This 
respectable veteran is now 80 years of age ; he 
was the companion of Washington, engaged in 
his country's service at the gloomiest periods of 
the revolution, fought and bled in the cause of 
liberty ; when the national finances were bank- 
rupt he advanced 1800 dollars of his private 
property for the common defence : this sum has 
never been repaid ; and in consequence of the 
scanty amount of his annual income, he has been 
compelled to take up his abode in the wilderness. 
This aged patriot, with clothes which might 
seem from their appearance to have felt the 
effects of all the seasons for the last ten years, 
with flaxen hair, tottering limbs, a care-worn 
countenance, deeply dejected from supposing 
his country ungrateful, and with one foot in 
the grave, is now a petitioner to that people 
in whose service he spent his youth, his 
treasure, and his blood, aiding them in. their 
emancipation from external dominion, and in 
raising them into a great and an independent 
nation. 



THE SENATE, 509 



CONGRESS. 

Congress being sitting, I have several times 
attended their debates. Their present place of 
meeting is a temporary one : it was designed, 

I believe, for an hotel, and is in the immediate 
neighbourhood of the Capitol. 

My -first visit to congress (which assembles at 

II o'clock in the morning, arid adjourns at 4 
in the afternoon) was to the senate. This body 
is at present comprised of forty members, the 
iStates having increased from their original num- 
ber of thirteen, to that of twenty, and each State, 
regardless of its population, sending two. The 
gallery is open to all, without ordets from mem- 
bers, or halfia-crown to the door-keeper : the 
only form to be observed, is taking off the hat 
in obedience to a public notice to that effect. 
The chairman's seat is central, under a hand- 
some canopy ; the members are placed on rich 
scarlet cushions, soma at double, and some at 
single desks. There are two large fires. The 
room is carpeted, as is also the gallery. The 
forms of business are taken from those of our 
parliament, with a few minor exceptions. One 
point of variation, at least, from the British senate, 
is, that every speech is apparently listened to, 'and 
all, whether good or bad, whether marked by su- 
perior excellence or by unequalled dullness, seem 
regarded with equal apathy and complete lifeless 

x 3 



310 SENATORS, 

endurance, neither applause nor censure being 
allowed; and it would not be an easy task to dis- 
cern which were felt, judging from the counte- 
nance. I have heard nearly all their usual speak- 
ers. Mr. Otis, of Massachusetts, is an eloquent 
man, but not remarkable for solidity of reasoning. 
Mr. Rufus King is a true gentleman, and one 
whom I should conceive has not many superiors 
among the public men of any country. Mr. Bar- 
bour, called Governor Barbour, of Virginia, is a 
speaker who, perhaps, violates all the rules of 
theoretic oratory, but who, notwithstanding 
possesses an irresistible charm from his evident 
sincerity, and the manliness of his deportment, 
which, while it rivets the attention of his au- 
dience, compels them to love the object of their 
admiration. His countenance is one of that kind 
which, in a few minutes, enlists in its favour all 
the social affections, and you insensibly feel 
anxious and predisposed to take that side of the 
argument of which so apparently kind and able 
a man professes himself the advocate. A friend 
from Boston replied to some observations of 
mine concerning him, " I entirely agree with 
" you in relation to Mr. Barbour, — he is a man 
" in whom van cannot be deceived, he carries 
*' his heart in his hand." There are, in the 
senate, a great proportion of men of experience, 
of sound ability, and who would do credit ta 
any nation upon earth* 



HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. - Sit 

The Representative chamber is in the same 
building, and of about twice the extent. An 
admission to the gallery is equally easy, and is 
also open to both sexes. This assembly consists 
of nearly two hundred. They want in appearance 
the age, experience, dignity, and respectability, 
which we associate with the idea of legislators> 
and which are possessed by the superior branch 
of the congress. The interior decorations of 
this room are marked by an inferiority to the 
senate, which is rather anti-republican. The 
members sit on very common chairs, at un- 
painted desks, which are placed in rows, the 
whole resembling a Lancasterian school, though 
without its regularity. Some two or three 
speakers regularly command attention ; others 
talk on as long as they please, the members being 
occupied in writing letters, and in reading or 
folding up newspapers. This is carried to such 
an extreme, that it appears fully to justify the 
charge of Mr. Randolph, that " the House of 
*' Representatives consisted only of a large col- 
** lection of printers' boys." Spitting boxes are 
placed at the feet of each member, and, con- 
trary to the practice of the Upper House, at 
once members and visitors wear their hats. I 
have been present at numerous discussions, 
among which were the subjects of " Revolu- 
" tionary claims," " a General Bankrupt Bill," 
and « General St. Clair's Claim." The latter 

x 4 



812 GENERAL St. CLAIR. 

was the topic when I first entered the gallery of 
this assembly* The fact of his having advanced 
1800 dollars of his private property for national 
purposes, was proved by a receipt, attesting 
k at the time, given by the next in command. 
I was surprised to find the question of repay- 
ment of this sum could be made a subject of 
debate, naturally concluding that this powerful 
nation would not have suffered itself, even for a 
moment, to remain debtor to poor individuals ; 
and that the mere fact of a revolutionary gene- 
ral having fallen into distress, only required to 
be known in order that he should be relieved. 
To my extreme surprise and regret, however, 
I was speedily undeceived. General St. Clair's 
claim was so strongly opposed, that I concluded 
it would necessarily be lost. The arguments 
advanced by its advocates were, first, that the 
money was . due to him, and if not paid, the 
country were neither more nor less than swind- 
lers; and secondly, that having been one of 
their political saviours, they ought to go hand 
and heart to pour oil and wine into his wounds, 
and not to suffer his grey hairs to descend with 
sorrow to the grave. These reasons met with 
the . following mercenary, cold-blooded argu- 
ments, in the way of reply: — "General 
*' St. Clair certainly has claims upon our grati- 
" tude ; and if we could be directed by our 
" wishes, we should assent to the bill : but we 



MR. HENRY CLAY. 313. 

■" were not sent here by our constituents to be 
" governed by, or to legislate according to our 
f< feelings. The obtainment of our liberties, 
" also, was certainly a valuable acquisition s 
" but those are arguments foreign to the pre- 
" sent discussion. We have now got our com- 
" stitution, and how it was obtained is, at this 
" time, a matter of little moment. We are not 
" eternally to be looking at the past : we are 
" now free : that is our main consideration \ 
f* our duty and true policy is to look at the fu- 
" ture." The prominent leader of this side of 
the question was a man gifted with great volu- 
bility of speech, much self-importance in de- 
livery, considerable occasional violence 6f man- 
ner, and who seemed to command much atten- 
tion, rather from the strength of his lungs, 
however, than the solidity of his reasoning. This 
gentleman I found to be Mr. Henry Clay, 
speaker of the House of Representatives, an 
active man of business. He is said -to -under- 
stand the forms' of the house better than any 
other member. His manners are not exactly 
gentlemanly. His natural talent I should sus- 
pect to be good, though but little cultivated, at 
least by present application. His mode of speak- 
ing possesses strength, but is totally destitute 
either of pathos or of logical arrangement. 
His arguments against Gen. St. Clair I thought 
ably refuted. It was proved to demonstration, 
that, although gratitude ought not to be over- 



314 REVOLUTIONARY CLAIMS. 

looked, this claim was not of that class. It was 
a demand upon their justice ; and if they did 
not pay the money, principal and interest, they 
were actually robbing their creditor. Upon a 
division the original motion was lost, and an 
amendment carried, allowing him, on the ground 
of national gratitude > 131. 10s. per month. I be- 
lieve there is not a man in Washington who would 
insure the General's life for a year and a half. 

The claims of some of the private soldiers of 
the revolution were met in a similar spirit. A 
great number were rejected altogether. Those 
whose claims were admitted, received, after 
numerous discussions, the liberal allowance of 
13s. 6d- per week during life. Two of the Phi- 
ladelphia federalist newspapers, in reporting 
this debate, were printed in deep mourning, 
considering the honour and character of the 
country compromised by such a mean provision 
for men towards whom the nation was deeply in- 
debted. Nearly all the members of the repre- 
sentative chamber are young men ; and out of 
the 190 members, 150, at the least, are lawyers, 
a class of men whose minds, here, as elsewhere, 
appear moulded and contracted by their pro- 
fession, and not possessed of that general know- 
ledge, or not taking those large and equitable 
views of things, which should be the distinguish- 
ing characteristics of the legislators of a great and 
a commercial people. Last session the member 
from Baltimore, who is a merchant, introduced 



LAWYERS. . 315 

the late " tariff." While giving the details, and 
necessary statements on this most important sub- 
ject, he.perceived that nearly the whole assembly, 
Mr. Speaker included, were inattentive or slum- 
bering. Stopping in the midst of his speech, he 
apolpgised for his own deficiency of ability, stat- 
ing, " that he perceived the subject he was speak- 
" ing on was not understood by the body he was 
" addressing. The exact cause of this he could 
" not pretend to determine : but of this he felt 
" quite confident, that there was not a boy in 
" his counting-rooms but would comprehend the 
" subject perfectly." This roused the " learned 
" gentlemen ;" and throughout the remainder of 
the subject they put on, at least, the aspect of 
attention. 

The State-legislatures are equally infested 
with lawyers. They occupy, in fact, eight- 
tenths of all the public situations in America. 
This is a great and a crying evil, and being one 
that is more likely to increase than diminish, 
may naturally give rise to some melancholy 
forebodings concerning the practical continu- 
ation of this excellent constitution. 

In relation to the laws of the United States, 
1 have remarked, on a previous occasion, the 
dependence of judges upon the counsel. I 
have been present in courts where this has 
been strikingly, injurious to the cause of justice, 
though this is not to be understood as an uni- 
versal feature of judicial proceedings ; at least I 



316 JUDGES. 

saw no evidence of it in the Supreme Court at 
Washington, where Judge Washington is among 
those who preside. He is nephew to the late 
General, and resides at Mount Vernon. 

Some of the judges are, doubtless, men of 
superior legal knowledge, and high standing in 
society ; but there are others who certainly are 
not in possession of the former, though they 
may be of the latter qualification ; as, for in- 
stance, the Chief Justice of the Common Pleas 
at Newark, who, I am informed, is a butcher — 
not a butcher retired from business, and become 
a lawyer, but he attends to both trades, even 
on the same day, selling at seven o'clock in 
the morning a leg of mutton, and at eleven 
supplying his customers with a slice of Black- 
stone. Much evil must necessarily result from 
this heterogeneous admixture of ignorance with 
learning. Although we might hail the appoint- 
ment of plain men of business, and possessed 
of good solid understandings, to award justice 
to their fellow-citizens as an important benefit 
conferred on society, in substitution of the 
legal quibbling and learned oppression of the 
bar and bench ; yet if such men are not per- 
mitted to follow the plain dictates of their own 
understanding, but are tied down by legal forms, 
by ancient precedents, and by the laws and prac- 
tice of a country with which they are entirely 
unacquainted, then, indeed, the appointment of 
such men becomes an evil instead of a benefit to 



, LAWYERS. 817, 

society 5 and it would be better to place indivi- 
duals oa the bench, who, — whatever may be 
their characters in other respects, — their arro- 
gance of deportment or their political subser- 
viency,' — yet, at any rate, understand the busi- 
ness upon which they are employed. 

Although there may be, and doubtless are 
many members of the legal profession who are 
honourable men, yet from ail I have seen, or 
have been able to understand, the lawyers of this 
country do not seem to merit a particularly high 
character. My impression of them is, to use an 
American mode of estimation, at least thirty- 
three and a third per cent, lower than of their 
brethren in England. There are various causes 
which may have produced this deterioration, 
In the first place, deep and solid research in- any, 
occupation is neither so much wanted, so much 
esteemed, nor is it so " marketable" a commodity 
as in Great Britain ; further, the greater equality 
of society, which renders men more independent 
of each other ; the non-classification of the pro- 
fession of the law, which prevents either portion 
from being deeply studied, while the ease with 
which even legal gentlemen can and do alter 
their mode of obtaining a livelihood, naturally 
weakens the motives to exertion, and lessees 
too that strong impression of having at once .a 
reputation, and the very means of existence 
at stake - 9 — - these latter causes we knawt0.be 



318 ELECTIONS. 

» 

powerfully operative 4n England. The vast 
number of lawyers also, as compared with the 
amount of American population, divides the 
business into so many channels, that when 
a job is obtained, no means can be afforded to be 
left untried to render it profitable. These causes, 
aided by that prolific source of chicanery, our 
statute book, may account for that of which 
Americans complain so loudly — the expence of 
law proceedings, and the want of principle in 
their professional men. 

elections. 
To pass to another subject. — In all the elec- 
tioneering addresses which I have seen, it is 
deserving of remark, that the defeated party 
complain of the corrupt influence of " Caucus." 
I have often enquired the meaning of this term, 
or the nature of the power exercised, but have 
not received any very satisfactory information. 
An American writer says that it is " a cant 
" term for those private meetings which are 
" held by the political parties, previous to elec- 
■* tions, for the purpose of agreeing upon can- 
" didates for office, or concerting any measure 
" which they design carrying at the subsequent 
* public meeting." The other day I called 
upon a resident of this city, a person of some 
political importance. Aware that the subject is 
already and very variously discussed throughout 



THE CAUCUS. 319 

the States, I casually enquired, " Who do you 
M think, Sir, will be your next president ?" 
He gave no reply, except by a significant 
nod. I followed up my enquiry by, " Do you 
«< think, Sir, Mr. Adams will be selected ?" 
To which he answered, with decided confidence, 
" No ; I guess not, Sir ; we have the man, we 
*' have the man, we know our man. — Crawford 
*f (the present secretary of the treasury) had it 
" in caucus last time, within a few." I enquired 
what he meant by having it in caucus ; for that 
Mr. Munroe was elected by an overwhelming 
majority. His answer was, " Ah ! I guess you 
*« don't understand our modes ; when you have 
" been here a few years, you will comprehend 
* { these things. Only mind, I tell you Adams 
" never can be president ; for he will not be 
V able to do any thing with caucus." From 
minute enquiry, I understood that this thing 
called caucus, was practically invented by Mr. 
John Adams, during his presidentship ; and 
that it is now universally practised in the elec- 
tion to every office in America. Since the first 
choice of Mr. Jefferson, the presidential elec- 
tions are managed by private meetings (or 
caucus) of the democratic members of congress, 
previous to elections : they settle among them- 
selves who shall be president. This is what is 
called getting " the appointment in caucus," 
and an instance never occurs of the votes being 



3^0 THE CAUCUS. 

in opposition to caucus. When they have de- 
termined upon who they wish to be president, 
they send circulars to their different States, 
pointing out, by a kind of conge d'elire, who 
they have resolved should be elected: and as 
the right of voting for presidents is confined 
to a very limited number, there is no instance 
of the caucus being disobeyed* Mr. Munroe 
being a democrat was, as a matter of course, 
voted for by the democratic States ; and those 
of New England being federal, would not, I be- 
lieve, give a vote upon the occasion. It appears 
that the members of the Washington caucus 
were almost equally divided between Mr. Craw- 
ford and Mr. Munroe; but that some accom- 
modation being agreed upon, the latter got 
" the appointment." Had his rival obtained this, 
he and not Mr. Munroe would have been voted 
iQi: by the democratic States, as a matter of course. 
These are alarming facts ; for thus we see that 
the very men (the members of congress) *wko 
are directly excluded by the constitution from 
voting, become, by means of a secret something 
unknown to that constitution, and at variance 
with both its letter and spirit, the real electors to 
the presidentship. How necessary are the most 
unceasing vigilance, and the greatest degree of 
public principle and public virtue, to preserve 
even the best institutions from gross perversion ! 
No oligarchy can be more dangerous than this, 



THE CAUCUS. 331 

which deludes the people with a belief that they 
are all-powerful, and the electors of their chief 
magistrate, while virtually they are "the mere 
tools of a faction, and have not a voice in the 
matter. By a reference to the proceedings of con- 
gress, it would appear that this vitally important 
subject was brought under their public consider- 
ation in 1816 ; upon which Mr. Rufus King, 
and General Harper, made the following obser- 
vations, every syllable of which deserves your 
most marked attention : — 

Mr. King said, w If there was any part of 
* ( the constitution, deemed by its framers and 
u advocates to be better secured than any other 
** against the enterprises which have since oc- 
*> curred, it was the very provision on the sub- 
*< ject of election to the presidency. The idea 
" was, that the action of that particular agency \ 
« which has since controlled it, was as much 
" displaced by the constitutional plan of elect- 
" ing the President and Vice President, as could 
*' possibly be devised. We all know the course 
" tibhich this thing has taken. The election of a 
" President of the United States is no longer that 
*' process which the constitution contemplated. In 
* conformity with the original view of the authors 
" of tkat instrument, I would restore, as tho- 
" roughly as possible, the freedom of election to 
*« the people. On the contrary, our progress in 
<* government is not for the better ; it-4$* not 



322 ABUSES OF ELECTION. 

" likely, hereafter, to be in favour of popular 
" rights* It was with the people, the const itti- 
" tion meant to place the election of the chief 
" magistrate ; that being the source the least 
" liable to be corrupt. But if, under the name 
" of the liberty of the people, we put this power 
" into other hands, with different interests, we 
" place it in a situation in which the rights of the 
" people are violated. Men now live, who will 
" probably see the end of our government, as we 
" now go on ; terminate when it will, the termin* 
" a tion will not be in favour of public liberty. 
" For five years past, I have seen a character 
" developing itself, the predominance of which 1 
" fear." 

General Harper said, " As to the main propo- 
" sition, he was decidedly in its favour ; for this 
" general reason, that its adoption would tend 
" to make the election of President less a matter 
" of juggle and intrigue than it now is. 

" He would not say that it would have the 
" effect of wholly excluding intrigue 5 of placing 
" this great election on the footing, on which the 
" great men who framed the constitution vainly 
" imagined they were placing it, of a free, un- 
" biassed expression of the public will > but it 
" would bring it nearer than at present. Party 
" arrangements and bargains would, not be so 
" easy. Bargains could not be so readily struck 
" with one State for this great office, with another 



ADMIRAL' C&'C'KftUtW. S23 

%i Jbr tltat ; as according to tke present mode of 
'** -election,- Districting the States for electors, 
*' would have a tendency to render the presi- 
" dential election more free and independent ; 
<x to remove it more from the grasp of party 
"'arrangements ; to prevent bargains between 
"profligate agents, and the selling of the nation 
"for offices to the highest bidder*" 

The motion to remedy these evils was lost by 
a large majority. 

The prevailing American politics of Wash- 
ington at this time are, what is here called 
democratic. Previous to what they consider the 
piratical attack of the English government, some 
among them were strong federalists, The con- 
duct of our soldiers, with the exception of de- 
stroying the public buildings, is said to have 
been exemplary \ private property, and indivi- 
duals, receiving the most complete protection. 
Anecdotes are related of English officers assist- 
ing the ladies — the male population having all 
run away, leaving their homes to the protection 
of the women and children. 

The children, particularly in Alexandria, have 
a dread of the name of " Admiral Coekburn," 
similar to that I used to entertain of Bonaparte 
and the Devil. General Ross is an universal 
favourite, from being, I presume, more humane, 
and enforcing the orders of his government 
with less rigour than that exercised by the' naval 

y 2 



S%4t GENERAL L&COCK. 

commander. General Lacock, senator from 
Pennsylvania, who boarded at the same house 
with myself, and with whom I had the pleasure 
of a slight acquaintance, amused me one even- 
ing by a humourous detail of what foreign 
travellers have said against America, especially 
the celebrated poet Thomas Moore, who had 
visited America in 1803. With the following 
epistle, dated from Washington, the General was 
particularly familiar : — 

<l The lover now, beneath the western star, 
Sighs thro' the medium of his sweet segar ; 
The weary statesman * for repose hath fled 
From halls of council to his negro's shed, 
Where, blest, he woos some black Aspasia's grace, 
And dreams of freedom in his slave's embrace. 

In fancy now, beneath the twilight gloom, 
Come, let me lead thee o'er this modern "Rome, 
Where tribunes rule, where dusky Davi bow, 
And what was Goose Creek once is Tiber now* 
This fam'd metropolis, where fancy sees 
Squares in morasses, obelisks in trees, 
Which travelling fools and gazetteers adorn 
With shrines unbuilt and heroes yet unborn ; 

Though none but wood and they see, 

Where streets should run, and sages ought to be. 
Oh, great Potowmac ! Oh, you banks of shade, 
You mighty scenes ! in natures morning made ; 
Say, were your towering hills, your boundless floods, 
Your rich savannahs, and majestic woods ; 
Oh ! was a world so bright but born to grace 
Its own half-organised, half-minded race 



* . Supposed to refer to a charge made by the federalists against a 
celebrated politician of Virginia. 



MOORE, THE POET. 325 

Of weak barbarians, swarming o'er its breast 

Like vermin gender'd in the lion's crest ? 

Were none but brutes to call that soil their home, 

Where none bu^ demi-gods should dare to roam ? 

O'er lake and marsh, through fevers and through fogs, 

'Midst bears and Yankies, and frogs, 

Thy foot shall follow me ; thy heart and eyes 
With me shall wander, and with me despise.'* 

The old general laughed at Moore's conceit ; 
and observed, that foreigners were commonly 
disappointed with this country, more particularly 
those that were, in Europe, friends of liberty. 
He thought, however, that such a publication 
was discreditable to our poet, only because he 
had received while here much personal attention. 
This same argument was adduced to me by 
the son of Colonel Boyd, with whom I dined at 
New Orleans, concerning Moore, and other 
writers, who told unpleasant truths of their 
country, or did not view it as the great and 
faultless political Elysium. That a distinguished 
individual receiving attentions in a foreign land 
is a proof of the existence of the common habits 
of civilized society is unquestionable ; but that 
that should be the criterion by which he is to 
judge of the whole mass of a country, requires no 
refutation. Yet I have generally found this to 
be the standard by which Americans themselves 
estimate the different parts of their own conti- 
nent, as well as of Europe : it is not what they 
saw, but how they were personally treated, which 

y 3 



826 WASHINGTON POLITICS. 

forms the burden of their song; as though m 
describing a country, either for our friends or 
the public, we are not bound by every moral tie 
to speak the truth of that country, and its inha- 
bitants too, whatever may have been the personal 
conduct of individuals towards ourselves. There 
can be, surely, in this no breach of hospitality ; 
on the contrary, the man who tells the honest 
truth of a nation is, as I should conceive, its 
best friend. Seeing it with the eye of a stranger, 
he discerns defects which, perhaps, custom has 
rendered invisible to the eye of the native, and 
by candidly pointing them out, he affords an? 
opportunity of amendment which would not 
otherwise be gained. 

EUROPEAN POLITICS. 

What the European politics of Washington 
are at this time, I should feel some difficulty in 
ascertaining: what they were in 1813, maybe 
judged by the following extracts from a small 
pamphlet which has just fallen into my hands : 
it is entitled " The celebration of the Russian 
" victories, in Georgetown, district of Columbia, 
" 5th June 1813, including the oration of Mr. Cus- 
J c tis and the address of Mr. Harper* — Printed by 
" James B. Carter." After describing in glow- 
ing language the " second Lucifer" (Bonaparte), 
who, like his archetype, was envious and jealous 
of the poor remains of human happiness — who 



WASHINGTON POLITICS. $%7 

spread devastation with his sword, and medi- 
tated the banishment of all true religion ; the 
writers adds, — " In the redemption of the world 
«« by the arms of Russia, all nations must re- 
" joice ! And the heart that would not join in 
" the " Te Deum" which religion and huma- 
" nity shout for the deliverance of mankind, 
e * must be already attuned to the fell discord 
" of fiends howling in frantic despair. Can 
" it then excite surprise that, in America, 
™ among a people enjoying the blessings and 
" happiness of a government of their own choice, 
" the news of Bonaparte's defeat was re- 
f ceived with a burst of joy and gratitude, such 
*< as a virtuous and humane people would dis- 
" play upon the downfall of tyranny, and the 
€ < promised restoration of peace and prosperity 
'* to an emancipated world ? Could they con- 
" template, without emotions of sympathy, 
" any portion of the human family, hunted 
" down by the « dogs of war,' and panting un- 
*< der a load of oppression, extortion and cruelty? 
*« While you rejoiced at the success of Russia, 
" you evinced a sympathy known only to vir- 
" tuous hearts. Then glory in the example 
" you have set the world — shew the parasites 
4< of power, and the creatures of ambition, that 
'*■ freedom and virtue expand and warm your 
" hearts with general benevolence to mankind 
c< «*■ and teach a tyrant and his minions, that 
y 4 



32$ RUSSIAN VICTORIES. 

" when the grand destinies of the United States 
" are most beautifully developed, they will be 
** seen in sympathy with those who suffered by 
* £ his wrongs, and exulting in his overthrow. 

i€ Influenced by such considerations as are 
i* here briefly and faintly described, it was pro- 
" posed at a meeting of the citizens of George* 
" town, in the district of Columbia, to testify 
** their gratulatton, and to evince their gra- 
" titude to the Dispenser of all good, by a suit- 

" able COMMEMORATION OF THE LATE RUSSIAN 
" VICTORIES. 

" Saturday, the 5th of June, was fixed upon 
" for the celebration ; and John Peter (Mayor), 
" Robert Beverly, William Marbuary, Thomas 
" Peter, Washington Bowie, Francis Dodge* 
" John I. - Stall * and John Lee, Esquires, were 
"appointed 4 committee to prescribe and 
" superintend the arrangements for the day. 

M NARRATIVE OF THE CELEBRATION. 

" The celebration of the Russian victories commenced on 
" Saturday, the 5th of June, at the hour of 2 o'clock, P.M. 
".TJfre company principally assembled previously, at, the 
6i Union Hotel, where the committee of arrangement an- 
" nounced the following as the 

Order of the Bay, 
'< In procession to the church — 1st. Ladies. 2d. Presi- 
li dent of the United States (Madison), and Heads of JDe~ 
« jxartments! / 3d. Senators and representatives in Congress. 
" 4th. Members of the Maryland legislature. 5th. Strangers 
w of distinction, 6th. Citizens. The assembly seated — - 
** 7th. The Russian minister, with his lady, and suite- 



RUSSIAN VICTORIES. 3#9 

«« 8th. Foreign consuls. 9th. Reverend clergy and orator 
" of the day. 10th. Committee of arrangement. Exercises 
" in church — 1st. Solemn music. 2d. Introductory prayer. 
« 3d. Music. 4th. Oration. 5th. Music. 6th. Concluding 
" prayer. 7th. Grand Russian march, and adjournment to 
" the hotel. 

f? This order was punctually observed, and 

" contributed much to the regularity and 

" solemnity of the occasion. Agreeable to its 

" terms, a vast crowd assembled in the Presby- 

" terian church at the hour appointed. At half 

" past two the Russian minister, his lady, coun* 

" sellor of legation, and secretary, reached the 

" place in his carriage of state. They were 

" received by the committee of arrangement, 

" and escorted to a large pew appropriated 

" especially Tor their accommodation. At the 

" same time the foreign consuls, accompanied 

" by the president and vice-president of the 

" day, were conducted to another large pew 

" adjoining that occupied by the Russian lega- 

" tion. The reverend clergy and the orator of 

" the day, (Mr. Custis,) were next introduced 

M by the committee. 

" The hearts of all in sympathy being suit- 

" ably tranquillized, the Rev. Mr. Balch, in a 

" pathetic and reverential strain, addressed the 

" throne of heaven, imploring the blessing of 

" God upon the assembly, Mr. Custis, after a 

u short interval of music, then delivered an 

"highly interesting, historic, and didactic 



380 IMPERIAL AND REPUBLICAN TOASTS. 

" oration, in a style peculiar to his oratory, and 
" reflecting warm and sympathetic encomiums 
61 upon Russian valour. The scene in the church 
" was closed with prayer, when the lady of 
" the Russian minister was conducted to her 
lc carriage, the band playing a fine exhilarating 
" Russian march. The Russian legation, sue- 
" ceeded by foreign consuls, and other persons 
" of distinction, including senators and repre- 
" sentatives in Congress, were escorted to the 
" Union Hotel} 

" At four o'clock the company entered the 
" dining rooms, and was seated in the most 
" perfect order — The Russian Legation and 
" foreign consuls ranged on the rights the 
" Orator of the day on the left of the Pre- 
" sident. The whole entertainment was sump- 
" tuous, and beautifully ordered, to which a 
" company of near three hundred gentlemen 
" sat down. 

" After the cloth was removed the President 
" announced the following toasts : 

" The United States of America — May justice 
««' be her guide, neutrality her policy, and liberty 
" the essence of her national existence. 

" [Music — Hail Columbia. 

" The Empire of Russia — May this Northern 
" Star break the power of attraction that has 
" fastened the Continent of Europe to the mag- 
€f net pf France. [Grand Russian air* 



TOASTS, &C. 831 

" When the fourth toast was to be given, the 
" President called on Mr. Harper of Baltimore^ 
" who gave " Alexander the Deliverer." 

" (This toast was accompanied by a course of 
" remarks made by Mr. Harper, that excited 
" bursts of applause highly descriptive of the 
" feelings which animated this patriotic as- 
" sembly.) 

" Moscow in Flames — This is the holy confla- 
" gration, that lights the nations of the earth to 
" independence and peace. [Solemn Russian air. 

" The Memory of Washington — Oh ! that thy 
<c canonized form, hearsed in death, could burst 
" its cearment and raise a drooping empire ! 

" [Washington's March. 

" The Heroes of the Revolution — - Alas L the 
" fruits are fast withering of your patriot toils. « 

" [Solemn Dirge. 

« The American Navy — This is the cradle of 
" our rights, here let us cherish, foster and 
" honour those heroic spirits, who are destined 
" to punish the aggression of hostile powers. 

" [Tars of Columbia. 

" Capts. Hull, Jones, Decatur, Bainbridge, 
" and Lawrence ; 'and ye too have scattered 
" thunderbolts.' — Columbia, these thy chosen 
" sons, outstrip the world in deeds of valour. 

" [Decatur's March. 

" The native Tars of America — Eternal war,' 
" when necessary, for their essential rights. 

" [Freedom and our Native Land. 



332 TERMS FOR LAND. 

" Agriculture mourning — Commerce in tears— 
" You have our sympathies, we can do no more. 

" [Guardian Angels. 
" The Fair of America — With what Roman 
** matron may we not compare ? 

" [Sweet Passion of Love. 35 

OFFICIAL COMMUNICATION FROM THE LAND OFFICE. 

Having been invited to visit the tomb of the 
great Washington, which is about 10 miles from 
hence, I hasten to a conclusion ; and shall leave 
my own reflections to my next and last report, 
which I design shall follow this in about three 
weeks, when I shall have seen Baltimore, and 
also visited some of the smaller eastern towns. 

By a private letter to my friend R you 

are aware of an application which I have made 
to the land-office, concerning a tract of 40,000 
acres ; I inclose you Mr. Meigs's reply. 

« SlR, General Land-Office. 

" In reply to your letter : I have to say, that 
" the public lands north-west of the river Ohio 
" are sold at two dollars per acre, payable one- 
" fourth cash; one-fourth in two years; one- 
" fourth in three years ; one-fourth in four 
" years. A discount of eight per cent, per 
" annum for prompt payment reduces the cash 
" price to one dollar sixty-four cents per acre. 
" If the instalments are not all paid within five 



MR. bagot's note. * 333 

" years, the land is offered at public sale ; if it 
" brings more than the principal and interest 
" due to the United States, the surplus is paid 
" to the original purchaser ; if the principal 
" and interest is not bid, the land reverts to the 
< c United States, and the monies paid on account 
" are forfeited. 

" These are the terms of sale without respect 
" to persons or quantity. 

" I am very respectfully, 

« Sir, 
" Your obedient servant, 

" Josiah Meigs." 
«< Mr. Henry Fearon, 
" At Mrs. Lindsay's, Washington." 

The present report will go by the British 
packet free of expence, the English ambassador 
having acceded to my application in the follow- 
ing polite note, though I had not an introduc- 
tion to him : 

" Mr. Bagot presents his compliments to Mr. 
* Fearon, and has the honour to inform him 
" that if Mr, F. will send the papers alluded to 
" in his letter to Mr. Bagot's house in the 
" course of Friday next, he will endeavour to 
" transmit them to England in his bag, should 
" they not prove voluminous.** 

u Washington, 
" Mr. Henry Fearon, Pennsylvania Avenue." 



834< LETTER FROM MR. B1RKBECK. 

Wishing health and happiness to you all* and 
indulging the anxious hope that I shall soon see 
you either on this or the other side of the 
Atlantic, I for the present take my leave. 

P. S. I break open the package to inclose a 
letter from Mr. Birkbeck, in reply to one which 
I addressed to him upon my first visit to Louis- 
ville ; it is addressed to me at Baltimore. 

« SlR, Princeton, Nov. 29, 1817. 

" It would give me much pleasure to afford 
** you satisfactory information on the several 
" particulars you mention, but I am, like your- 
** self, a stranger in this country, and can there- 
" fore only communicate to you my opinions in 
" answer to your inquiries. 

" To the first, as to the most eligible part of 
'** the United States for obtaining improved 
'** farms, or uncultivated lands for Englishmen, 
" &c. I reply, that with a view to the settlement 
" of the number of families you mention, it will 
*' be vain to look for improved farms in any 
** part that I have seen or heard of. Probably 
" a single family might be suited in almost any 
«* large district, as the changes which are con- 
" tinually occurring in human affairs, will occa- 
Ci sionally throw eligible farms into the market 
« every where. But you can have no choice of 
" cultivated lands, as those you would prefer 



mr. birkbeck's letter. 335 

cc are the least likely to be disposed- of ; and it 
** is altogether unlikely you should meet with 
" a body of such lands, for the accommodation 
" of thirty or forty families ; considering, too, 
" that, by travelling a few day's journey farther 
" west, you may have a choice of land of equal 
" value at one-tenth of the price, where they 
" may settle contiguous, or at least near to each 
" other, I have no hesitation in recommending 
" you to do as I have done; that is, to head 
" the tide of emigration, and provide for your 
" friends where the lands are yet unappro- 
<c priated. 

" After traversing the States of Ohio and 
" Indiana, looking out for a tract suited to 
" my own views, and those of a number of 
" our countrymen who have signified their in- 
" tentions of following our example, I have 
" fixed on this spot in Illinois, and am the 
" better pleased with it the more I see of it. 

" As to obtaining labourers, A single settler 
" may get his labour done by the piece on 
" moderate terms, not higher than in some 
" parts of England ; but if many families settle 
" together, all requiring this article, and none 
" supplying it, they must obtain it from else- 
" where. Let them import English labourers, 
f* or make advantageous proposals to such as 
" are continually arriving at the eastern ports. 

u Provisions are cheap of course. Wheat three 



836 MR. birkbeck's letter. 

" and four-pence sterling per bushel. Beef and 
" pork two-pence per pound, groceries and 
" clothing dear, building moderate, either by 
" wood or brick. Bricks are laid by the thou- 
" sand at eight dollars or under, including 
" lime. 

" Privations I cannot enumerate. Their 
«* amount depends on the previous habits and 
w present disposition of individuals : for myself 
" and family, the privations already experienced, 
64 or anticipated, are of small account compared 
" with the advantages. 

" Horses, 60 to 100 dollars, or upwards; cows ? 
" 10 to SO dollars ; sows, 3 to 5 dollars. 

" Society is made up of new-comers chiefly, 
" and of course, must partake of the leading 
" characters of these. There is generally & 
" little bias of attraction in a newly settled 
" neighbourhood, which brings emigrants from 
" some particular state or country to that spot ; 
" and thus a tone is given to the society. Where 
" we are settling, society is yet unborn as it 
" were. It will, as in other places, be made 
" up of such as come ; among whom English 
" farmers, I presume, will form a large pro- 
" portion. 

" Roads as yet are in a state of nature. 

" Purchases of land are best made at the land- 
" offices: payments, five years, or prompt \ if 
" the latter, eight per cent, discount. 



MR. biekbeck's letter. 337 

*' Mechanics' wages, 1 dollar to l£. Carpen- 
w ters, smiths, shoemakers, brickmakers, and 
" bricklayers, are among the first in requisition 
" for a new settlement : others follow in course ; 
" — tanners, saddlers, taylors, hatters, tin- work- 
" ers, &c. &c. 

" We rely on good markets for produce, 
" through the grand navigable communication 
" we enjoy with the ocean. 

" Medical aid is not of difficult attainment. 
" The English of both sexes, and strangers in 
" general, are liable to some bilious attacks on 
" their first arrival; these complaints seem, 
" however, simple, and not difficult to manage 
" if taken in time. 

" The manufactures you mention^ may here- 
*f after be eligible ; cotton, woollen, linen, 
" stockings, &c. Certainly not at present. 
" Beer, spirits, pottery, tanning, are objects of 
" immediate attention. 

" The minerals of our district are not much 
" known. We have excellent limestone 9 I 
" believe we have coal: wood will, however, be 
" the cheapest fuel for some years. 

" Implements are cheap till you commence 
" with the iron. A waggon, 35 or 40 dollars, 
" exclusive of tier to wheels. A strong waggon 
" for the road complete will amount to 160 
" dollars or upwards. 

41 The best mode of coming from England to 

i 



838 MR. birkbeck's letter. 

v this part of the western country is by an 
" eastern port, thence to Pittsburgh, and down 
\\ the Ohio to Shawnee town. Clothing, bed- 
" ding, household linen, simple medicines of 
« the best quality, and sundry small articles of 
" cutlery and light tools, are the best things for 
" an emigrant to bring out. 

" I can hardly reply to your inquiry about 
" the manner of travelling ; it must be suited to 
" the party. Horseback is the most pleasant 
" and expeditious ; on foot the cheapest : a 
" light waggon is eligible in some cases ; in 
" others the stage is a necessary evil. I see I 
" shall render you liable to double postage, but 
" I wished to reply to each of your inquiries as 
" far as I could. 

"To serve you or your friends will be a plea- 
ic sure to, Sir, 

" Yours, &e. &c. 

*« To Mr. H. Fearon, " MORRIS BIRKBECK.* , 

c '- Post-Office, Baltimore." 

Note. — In preparing these pages for the press, I observe 
that this communication of Mr. Birkbeek's forms a part of 
his recent publication, called " Letters from Illinois.'* 
Aug. 1818. 



SEVENTH REPORT. 



Leave Washington. — Arrive in Baltimore. — Character of 
the People. — Churches ; their Architecture. — Religious 
Sects. — Mode in which Capital could be advantageously 
employed. — New York Forum. — Politics of Americans in 
relation to Europe. — Their Feelings towards Citizens of 
foreign Birth. — Public Resolutions upon this Subject. — 
My Friends commission Mr. Flower to purchase Land in 
Illinois. — Review of the Character and Condition of Ame- 
ricans. — The first Settlers. — Progressive Advancement 
towards the Comforts arid Intelligence of Europe* — The 
Colonial Government. — The Revolution ; its Cause. — 
Mr. Jefferson's Statement concerning the Effect of Paine s 
*' Common Sense" — Effect of Revolution upon Moral 
and National Character. — Disorder of the Government. — 
Revision of the Constitution. — Rise of the Parties called 
Democrats and Federalists ; their adverse European Po- 
litics. — Administration of Mr. Adams. — Rise of Mr. Jef- 
ferson. — Indolent Character of Americans ; its Cause. — 
The War qf\S12. — Depreciation of Government Security. 
— National Laws. 

New York, April 21. 1818. 

Having now again arrived at the point from 
which I set out in the summer of last year, I 
have determined to take up my residence in this 
city, at least until I receive the long wished-for 

letters of my friends , , and , 

which will, of course, govern my future pro- 
ceedings, and inform me whether to prepare for 
your reception, either in this city or that of 

z °Z 



340 BALTIMORE. 

Philadelphia, or return to the western country, 
and make a final arrangement concerning some 
lots in either Ohio or ,the Illinois ; or reeross 
the Atlantic, making Liverpool the port of my 
destination, in order to visit our friends in York- 
shire and Leicestershire, previous to my arrival 
in London. ~ — **+ — — 



, BALTIMORE. 

On leaving Washington for this place, I 
took Baltimore in my way, and resided there 
some time. It is a commercial city of great 
importance ; and, though not at present of the 
first rank, is rising with a rapidity almost un- 
paralleled. 

The substantial features of the American cha- 
racter appear here to be the same as throughout 
the Union, although the " Baltimorians" them- 
selves lay claim to a superior reputation for hos- 
pitality, enterprise, and bravery. Taking my 
own experience as a sample of the first, I most 
willingly bear favourable testimony to their cha- 
racter; but then it must be understood com- 
paratively, and not in the English sense of the 
word. In regard to the second, they appear 
entitled to it, judging from their shipping, much 
of which is engaged in hazardous pursuits, 
together with the speculative improvements of 



BALTIMORE. 341 

their town, and their having, by superior ac- 
tivity, supplanted Philadelphia in part of the 
western country trade; yet the merchants of 
this city are said to be deficient in capital. * Of 
their bravery, history will speak when recording 
their gallant and successful defence of their city, 
though attacked by the combined naval and 
military forces of England. 

Dancing and music are the prevailing amuse- 
ments. 

The ladies dress gaily and expensively. 

Rents, occupations, price of labour, clothing, 
employment for, and wages of mechanics, are 
here so precisely similar to those of the other 
Atlantic cities, that a detail is unnecessary. 

Some idea may be gained of the rapid progress 
of certain parts of the United States, from the 
fact, that 70 years ago Baltimore consisted of 
10 houses : it now contains 60,000 inhabitants. 

The principal street runs east and west, 
parallel with the river, and is intersected by nu- 
merous others, containing many excellent build- 
ings. North and east of the town the land 
rises, affording beautiful views of the city and 
bay. — Steam-boats proceed from here to Nor- 
folk in Virginia, and to New London in Con- 
necticut, by way of New York. In the winter 
months this delightful mode of travelling is 
interrupted: miserable stages and bad roads are 
then its substitute. 

z 3 



84>°2 RELIGION.— TRADE* 

There are several religious sects, tne most 
numerous of which are Roman Catholics. Epis- 
copalians, Baptists, Presbyterians, Methodists, 
and Quakers, have each a respectable number 
of partisans ; and an Unitarian Church is now 
building. In connection with churches, let me 
observe, by the way, that the architecture of 
several displays first-rate talent; and it seems 
not a little surprising, that such ability should 
have been overlooked by the conductors of the 
national buildings at Washington. 

The most accurate information which I can 
obtain, causes me to believe that capital could 
be profitably engaged here, in importing dry 
goods from Great Britain ; that mechanics, in 
the usual businesses, can get ready employment, 
will receive 40s. 6d. to 45s. per week, and pay 
for their board and lodging 15s. 9d. to 18s. In 
politics, Baltimore is a singular exception to all 
other American sea-port cities, in being anti- 
federal, or what is here denominated democratic. 
It lies, however, in a slave State, and seems by 
no means deficient in all the horrors of that 
barbarous system. This city also occupies the 
foremost ranks in deadly animosity towards 
England. 

Having returned through many parts of my 
former route, I have no new facts to communi- 
cate, but can say that my impressions of Ame- 
rica are generally confirmed. 



NEW YORK. 343 

NEW YORK. 

There is a highly respectable public assembly 
occasionally held in New York, called " The 
Forum :" I have attended twice — the place of 
meeting is in the ball-room of the city hotel. 
In the centre a sort of stage is erected, from 
which the orations are delivered. The charge 
is 6M., with free admission for ladies. The 
receipts are appropriated to charitable purposes. 
The speakers, as I understand was once fre- 
quently the case in London, are young lawyers, 
who practise as an assistant to their more pro- 
fitable exercises. Though the speaking is ex- 
temporaneous, inasmuch as it is not written, yet 
it appears by no means spontaneous, bearing 
decided evidence of previous rehearsal. The 
number of orators upon those occasions, when 
I was present, was six. To each side of both 
the questions was allotted an equal number of 
advocates ; who, though following each other 
with the regularity of mechanism, did not even 
risk a glance at the line of argument pursued 
by their predecessors, each having got his 
task by rote : and when their memories failed 
them, immediate recourse was had to the writ- 
ten speech, carefully deposited in the pocket. 
Although the talents of these young gentlemen 
for public display do not rank in the first class 
of American oratory, yet they may be regarded 
as presenting a fair average sample of the elo- 

z 4 



844 AMERICAN ORATORY. 

cution of both the bar and senate ; an elocution 
which, though said to be founded upon the 
English and French models, is so essentially dif- 
ferent from either, that it deserves to be regarded 
as a distinct species. It is chiefly distinguished 
by a set logical arrangement with regard to mat- 
ter, but expressed in inflated language, unac- 
companied by correspondent action ; strong ex- 
pressions are used to express minor ideas ; words 
of six syllables are substituted for deep thought 
or sound argument \ and there is evidently a 
constant labour after allusions and simile, which 
are often thread-bare and broken. The manner 
of their speakers is generally marked by an equal 
absence of modest diffidence and manly bold- 
ness : they show little evidence of possessing a 
literary mind ; their train of argument and their 
choice of language are, in their general effect, 
cold, measured, legal, and bombastic. 

The question discussed upon the first evening 
of my attendance was the following : " Is the 
" present peace of Europe likely to be of long 
" continuance ?" The number of the audience 
was about 700, full one-half of which were 
ladies, and all highly respectable in their ap- 
pearance. The place of assembly is not sur- 
passed by any ball-room which I have seen in 
England. The native political views of all the 
speakers were the same, though they took oppo- 
site grounds in this debate upon foreign affairs. 

8 



POLITICAL VIEWS. 345 

The following is a summary of their principles : 
America, the greatest country in the world ; re- 
publics, the best form of government in the world; 
the revolution, the most important epoch since 
the establishment of Christianity ; war, occasion- 
ally necessary ; a state of perpetual peace would 
be a perpetual curse ; Russia, the greatest coun- 
try in Europe, — will soon be enabled to contend 
with England at sea ; Napoleon, a fiend — - the 
French, a nation of atheists who do not deserve 
peace ; English government, very excellent — 
English people, the contrary ; Alexander, the 
deliverer, the most virtuous and magnanimous 
monarch ever known ; evil necessary in society — 
a long digression to prove its origin ; missionary 
societies of incalculable benefit, particularly those 
which were sent to the wild parts of Kentucky 
and Indiana; death of the Princess Charlotte 
must entail upon England dire calamities ; the 
holy league, a wise, pacific, and humane combi- 
nation ; liberty and happiness of all parts of 
Europe rapidly progressing. 

The next subject which I heard debated was, 
" Is it necessary for the interests of the United 
" States, that its government should be in the 
s< hands of a party?" This elicited similar 
trains of ideas to those delivered upon the pre- 
vious evening. There was the same strange, 
incongruous mixture of republican and anti-re- 
publican sentiments, mixed up in the speech of 



3^6 POLITICAL SENTIMENTS. 

every orator. The advocates of reform in Eng- 
land were ridiculed with the same breath that 
praised their own revolution : popular meetings 
censured, and the United States' constitution, 
founded upon the rights of the people, extolled 
to the skies. Lord Cochrane was abused, the 
American navy flattered, the rights of man and 
the excellence of the Emperor Alexander in- 
sisted upon, dangers of parties and cabals ex- 
posed, and popular meetings execrated. 

This being the close of the season, a vale- 
dictory address was delivered by Mr. Fessenden, 
a gentleman of very middling talent, and ex- 
travagantly conceited in his manners. He laid 
down as the basis of good government, a variety 
of axioms favourable both to liberty and tyranny. 
" The first qualification for all offices, from the 
" president down to the lowest constable, ought 
" (he said) to be, that the candidates were natife 
" born, citizens." This sentiment was frequently 
repeated, and always tumultuously and unani- 
mously applauded ! I was previously well aware 
of the firm hold which this feeling possesses 
in the minds of all native Americans ; but I 
did not anticipate its fearless avowal in a large 
and mixed assembly. Throughout the States, I 
have remarked that there is a strong line of 
distinction drawn between citizens of native and 
of foreign birth ; and, in some cases, where the 
latter have professed principles of republicanism 



" FOREIGNERS.** 847 

in Europe, (a sin which might, at least, one 
should suppose, be forgiven them in the United- 
States of America,') they are treated with scom P 
as out- casts, who ought to have remained in 
their own country, and have submitted to what- 
ever form of despotism it chose to exert over 
them. So deeply- rooted, indeed, are these sen- 
timents in the American mind, that they give 
some colour to, though they can hardly justify 
the address which I find unanimously voted 
in the year 1809, at a meeting in New York of 
five hundred adopted citizens, from which th e 
following are extracts : 

'.' At a respectable meeting, consisting of about five hundred 
li Adopted Republican Citizens of the city of New York, 
" held at Lyon's Hotel, Mott-Street, — Mr. Archibald 
" Taylor being unanimously called to the chair, and Dr. 
t( Stephen Dempsey appointed secretary, the subjoined 
* address was unanimously adopted, and ordered to be 
" published, 

" To the Adopted Republican Citizens of the City of 
« New YorJc. 

" FELLOW CITIZENS, 

" A long train of disagreeable circumstances have called 

" us together, and induced us to address you upon a subject 

«' which, for years, we have acutely felt and deeply deplored,. 

" Some of you, groaning under oppression in your native 

" land, have voluntarily emigrated from it, whilst others, 

16 more afflicted by despotism, and less favoured by propi- 

'.f tious events, find yourselves in the condition of involuntary 

" exile. All, however, have chosen, as a resting-place in 

li the journey through life, this 'asylum for the oppressed 

" of all nations.' Here, perhaps, mistaking the character 



&4<8 « FOREIGN CITIZENS, 



«' of human nature, we pleasingly anticipated, from those 
€i who avow themselves the friends of freedom, exemption 
** from that religious persecution and civil tyranny, whose 
** inexorable reign had forced us from our native country. 
" Alas ! how greatly were we mistaken ! how egregionsly have 
" we been disappointed ! Our constitutions and governments 
" are indeed free, but between these admirable institutions and 
" ourselves a tyranny is intervened, much less tolerable than 
" that from which we Jled. We have made permanent set- 
" tlements in the land of our forefathers ; we admire and we 
" are attached to our republican institutions; we have 
" complied with the injunctions of the constitutions and the 
" laws, and we will support them upon equal terms with 
" our lives and our fortunes. But how are we treated? 
i i Wh at has been our reception ? Has good faith been observed f 
" Have the promises been performed? Are not we, tvho are 
" citizens by all the solemnities and obligations of law, treated 
<l as aliens — stigmatized as foreigners? We complain not 
" of the constitutions and the laws; they are liberal in prin- 
" ciple, and benign in operation. They enjoin an abjur- 
" ation of former allegiance: have we not with alacrity 
" complied with the injunction ? They require an oath of 
** fidelity to the Union and to the States ; devoted in spirit 
" and in truth to hoth, we have eagerly taken it. What more 
" is required ? What more can be expected ? The laws re- 
u quire no more. Shall an under-plot, a counter-operation, 
<l individual jealousy, and pale faced cabal, frowned upon by 
" the very elements of the state, subvert the law — put it at 
" defiance — trample it under foot ? The law places upon 
" the same undistinguishable level, the citizen of native and 
xe the citizen of foreign birth. Are we to be told, in this 
*' enlightened age, that the law is not to govern ; that the 
" essence of well-ordered society is not a government of 
" laws, but a government of the worst passions ? Go back, 
** then, to a state of anarchy ; tear out the bowels of society ; 
" revert to the rude condition of untutored nature, and let 
" the strongest govern. We have never ceased to cherish 
6i and to inculcate those opinions which are most consonant 
<{ to the civil and social state. We have remonstrated against 



REPORTS DELAYED. 349 

t( distinctions, at once impolitic and unjust, between native 
u and adopted citizens ; but have not our remonstrances and 
<{ efforts been in vain? No zeal, no exertions, no services, 
" however disinterested, unremitted, or great, have been 
" sufficient to shield us from an epithet which, while it 
" poisons the social and impairs the enjoyment of political 
" life, must ultimately terminate in the ruin of the repub- 
" lican party in this city. Alas ! has our republic turned 
" upon itself, and in the short period of a few years from 
" the adoption of the constitution?" 

" Resolved unanimously, that 500 copies of the above 
'* address and resolution be printed in hand-bills, for the 
" benefit of our fellow republican adopted citizens. 

" Archibald Taylor, Chairman. 
" S. Dempsey, Secretary." 

24th April. — Upon my return from an ex- 
cursion to New Jersey, I received a letter from 

my friend C -, dated « Hertford, Jan. SO." 

brought by Mr. W. Walford of Bishopgate-street, 
London, who came in the "Minerva, Smyth," and 
is immediately proceeding on to Mr. Birkbeck. I 
am much concerned to hear, that even at that date 
my first was the only report which had reached 
you. Of the accident which occurred to the 
" Electra of Philadelphia," and the melancholy 
catastrophe of Captain Williams, I was apprised 
by Lloyd's list ; but as she was taken safely 
into St. Maloes, I had indulged the hope, that 
before the date of the above letter, you had 
safely received my communications : they were 
accompanied by a large packet of newspapers, 
pamphlets, and some curiosities. Had I beeu 
so thoughtful as to have mentioned to Mr. , 






350 REPORTS. 

of Philadelphia, that I wished a parcel taken to 
England, he assures me that Mr. Rush, the am- 
bassador who sailed in the Franklin, seventy- 
four, would have most willingly conveyed it to 
London ; — however, this knowledge is now un- 
availing, but I trust that my several reports, 
including the last from Virginia and Washing- 
ton, dated in March, are, by this time, in your 
possession. Your commission to Mr. Flower, Mr. 
Birkbeck's associate, to purchase 9000 acres in 
the Illinois, is certainly a bold measure ; but as 
you desire my immediate return, I shall defer 
the discussion of its merits until I am blessed 
with the pleasure of meeting you all face to 
face, and once more enjoying the indescribable 
delight of your society and an English hre-side. 
I shall, in all probability, embark by about the 

middle of next month. Captain H sails 

in a few days, and I am sure will take particular 
care of this communication. 

The remark is now an old one, " That 
" Americans have no national character." Half 
a century ago the observation was probably cor- 
rect ; but I think a personal acquaintance will 
show its utter want of foundation at the present 
period. Their national character, in my judg- 
ment, is broadly and distinctly marked ; and, as 
is common with that of other nations, partakes 
of a mixture of wisdom and folly, of virtue and 
vice, of some excellencies and of great defects. 



MOORE'S VIEW OF AMERICA. 351 

Although I cannot go the whole length of 
Moore's description of them, yet with a mind 
constituted, as I presume his to be, and with the 
disappointments which his strong prepossessions 
in favour of America must have given rise to, I 
can easily conceive that he would not find much 
difficulty in concluding that — " The rude fa- 
" miliarity of the lower orders, and indeed the 
" unpolished state of society in general, would 
" neither surprise nor disgust, if they seemed to 
" flow from that simplicity of character, that 
" honest ignorance of the class of refinement, 
" which may be looked for in a new and inexpe- 
" rienced people. But when we find them arrived 
" at maturity in most of the vices, and all the pride 
" of civilisation, while they are still so remote 
" from its elegant characteristics, it is impossible 
" not to feel that this youthful decay, this crude 
" anticipation of the natural period of corruption, 
" represses every sanguine hope of the future 
" greatness and energy of America/' 

National, like individual character, must be 
in a great measure formed or controlled by the 
circumstances in which men are situated. For 
the creation of a valuable standard of character, 
Americans are disadvantageous^ placed: they 
are far removed from that mass of floating in- 
telligence which pervades Europe, but more 
especially England ; and in addition to this, as a 
people, and in their political capacity, they have 



$52 SITUATION OF THE PEOPLE OF AMERICA, 

nothing to contend for — nothing to call forth 
their energies, and but little of external excite- 
ment beyond the pursuits of gain, and merely 
animal gratification. In their civil condition, 
all obtain a living with ease. For religion, 
their priests think for them; they have neither 
persecution to excite zeal, opposition or con- 
troversy to awaken them to enquiry, nor yet 
virtue or knowledge sufficient to show them 
its advantages ; whilst in their political capa- 
city, they have the cheapest, the easiest, and the 
most reasonable form of government in the world. 
To illustrate nations by individuals is an old, and 
by no means inappropriate mode of estimating 
political character; and, for myself, I never 
knew an individual who was freed from strong 
external excitement, or who possessed every 
thing which he desired without personal exer- 
tion, that did not sink into indolence, indiffer- 
ence, selfishness, and actual vice. This seems 
to be made, and wisely so, one of the terms and 
conditions of our nature — " Whom the Lord 
" loveth he chastiseth," is a sacred maxim ; that 
chastisement is, I believe, as valuable as it is 
necessary. I have not indeed seen the character 
whom I could call excellent, that had not under- 
gone trials, privations, and sufferings. To be- 
come intellectual, energetic, and virtuous, in the 
present state of our existence, seems to require 
that we should first know sorrow, and have beer! 



CONDITION OF AMERICANS. 853 

acquainted with grief; not that I am the advo- 
cate for political oppression in order to produce 
those consequences, or that I wish to see trans- 
planted into this free and hitherto unoppressed 
country, enormous taxation — iniquity in high 
places — civil disabilities — religious exclusions 
— standing armies- — and hired spies and in- 
formers ; but that a something must occur, 
before this people can be roused from their pre- 
sent lethargy,— made, even in a limited degree, 
deserving of their unparalleled natural and poli- 
tical advantages— that something of this nature, 
among the wise dispensations of Providence, will 
occur, I have no doubt ; for I cannot allow my- 
self to draw the melancholy conclusion of Moore, 
that what we now see of the character of the 
people, bad as it may appear, " represses every 
ct sanguine hope of the future energy and great- 
" ness of America." 

To understand America correct!}?-, it is, in 
some measure, necessary to recur to the character 
and condition of its first civilised population. 
They were, in the first instance, emigrants from 
the several European nations, particularly Eng- 
land ; the most respectable class of which were 
those who fled from religious persecution \ no 
inconsiderable number of transports ; the great 
body of the rest were as emigrants ever are — 
the most enterprising, the most needy, but by 
no means the most intelligent of their native 

A A 



354* EARLY POPULATION, 

country. It is such only, generally speaking* 
that can be induced to quit the land which gave 
them birth ; even although the exchange should 
bring with it the most decided advantages. 
The word home contains a sacred spell, which 
rarely can be broken. We cling to the hovels, 
the rocks, and the sands of our birth-place, 
with a filial affection which seldom ceases but 
with our existence. These feelings the Deity 
seems to have implanted for wise purposes in the 
bosoms of mil men. The emigrant to a wilder- 
ness will therefore rarely be a man even mo- 
derate in his worldly circumstances ; and he will 
still more rarely be possessed of regular habits, 
or a cultivated mind. Exceptions will exist of 
persons who take distant views, and who can 
bring every feeling and thought under the guid- 
ance of reflection and principle ; but such will 
ever be but exceptions, while our nature remains 
the same. Such then were the seeds of American 
society; let us look at the circumstances in 
which these men were placed; in a country 
where civilisation had made no progress ; where 
every man, both in mind and body, was fully 
occupied in obtaining the bare means of subsist- 
ence ; and where their relative situation towards 
the natives of the soil was calculated to deaden 
every just, benevolent, and humane sentiment. 
As society advanced, indeed, the whole popu- 
lation no longer remained " hewers of wood 



PROGRESS OF SOCIETY. 855 

« and drawers of water." Classification com- 
menced , but still those whose views, means, or 
habits could be mental, were extremely limited 
in number. They left Europe at a dark period, 
not themselves the finest specimens of the 
national picture ; even those amongst them 
who had leisure for literary objects, met with 
obstacles at every step— -the want of books, 
the want of society, and of communication 
with learned individuals or of scientific bodies. 
There was besides no history attached to their 
country; they lived indeed in a new world, 
11 which was endeared to them by no recollec- 
" tions, and which could neither excite nor 
" gratify their curiosity, by the records of the 
" past." The first accessions of strength from 
the " old country" furnished little besides an 
increase of the manual labour. The colonial 
government introduced some men of inform- 
ation ; public education was attended to ; riches 
increased ; the slave-trade was encouraged ; 
negroes were introduced in every American 
colony ; the extermination of Indians went on, 
the invaders gradually seizing on their country. 
Literature was now in some respects advancing, 
though the colonists depended for their mental 
as well as bodily clothing upon the mother- 
country ; English, Dutch, Irish, Scotch, Ger- 
mans, and their several descendants, were be- 
coming to speak one language, and have one 
a a 2 



856 THE REVOLUTION. 

common interest. They were, as colonists ever 
and necessarily are, inferior to the parent country 
in the first class of its intelligence, but above its 
grosser ignorance. Society had at this time ac- 
quired stability. The Revolution now took place. 
The motives and causes which led to this most 
important event are deserving of marked atten- 
tion : they were not, as had been the case with 
most other great national struggles, a dissatis- 
faction generally with their government, or a 
desire to be an independent people. Their resist- 
ance went to one specific claim of the English 
ministry, taxation without representation ; this 
object defeated, their design was to return to 
their former political condition : that there was 
no original intention to establish an independent 
constitution, is admitted by Mr. Jefferson in his 
" Notes on Virginia" In the April of 177^, 
three months before the declaration of inde- 
pendence, Paine's " Common Sense" appeared. 
Previous to the publication of this book, the 
leaders in the contest were made acquainted 
with its object and general purport. They were 
then alarmed — completely frightened at the 
bare idea of declaring themselves independent. 
Six individuals could not be found, who, at 
that time, would go the length of a separation 
from the mother-country, from which a small 
concession, with regard to the stamp-act, was 
hailed with the most enthusiastic delight — the 



DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE. 357 

wish of the whole people being to heal the 
existing differences, and return to their former 
dependent situation. These facts are necessary 
to be borne in mind, as they will account for 
much which exists in the people of the United 
States at the present day. The effect of 
" Common Sense" upon the public mind was 
electric. Men were alarmed indeed — but they 
read, and conviction flashed upon their minds. 
Three months after the appearance of this book, 
the " Declaration of Independence" was signed. 
The contest now assumed altogether an altered 
aspect ; the struggle was no longer for a rescue 
from a peculiar mode of taxation, but for the 
maintaining of rights, political and national, for 
vital and fundamental principles, which, if once 
established, would build upon their shores a 
temple of freedom, and leave it there, a model 
for other nations and for after ages. The friends 
of human liberty in Europe crossed the Atlantic 
to fan their darling flame. Others also emi- 
grated of a more dubious character : America 
became the receptacle for speculators and 
fortune-hunters, for adventurers and base and 
demoralised characters of every shade and de- 
scription. The peaceful pursuits of agriculture 
were exchanged for those of the sword ; society 
was shifted from its base, and every thing 
became disorganised. Peace was at length 
proclaimed, but it failed to bring with it those 

A A 3 



S5S RISE OF FEDERALISTS AND DEMOCRATS. 

halcyon days, of which the olive-branch is 
generally considered the precursor. America 
was now a chaos, bankrupt alike, it was feared, 
in morals and in finances. Their warmest 
patriots doubted whether their independence 
were not in fact a curse to them. The admi- 
nistration of Washington, which succeeded, was 
marked by policy, by sound views, and by 
political wisdom ; but, in drawing up the con- 
stitution, the desire to guard against the possi- 
bility of corruption, nearly produced the effect 
of destroying all government — a jealousy of 
power, carried to an imprudent excess, had too 
much weakened the pillars which should support 
the political fabric. A revision of the principles 
of the federal union became necessary to the 
salvation of the republic. This question gave 
rise to two great political parties*, practically 
though not theoretically possessed of opposite 
principles of government, and fostering in their 
breasts, even unto this day, the most impla- 
cable hatred, The friend of domestic peace 
and of public morals, feeling, perhaps too 
acutely, present evils, without calculating that 
a time for their correction must arrive, fondly 
dwelt upon a remembrance of those days when 

* Those who advocated the measure of a revision of the 
Constitution, for the purpose of increasing the powers of the 
general government, took the name of Federalists^ and their 
opponents that of Democrats. 



THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. 359 

they were children of the English family ; for- 
getting, as men too frequently do when reviewing 
the past, all that was painful and unpleasant, 
and only cherishing the recollection and sigh- 
ing after advantages of which they had been 
deprived. European politics became now the 
subject of general attention. The French 
revolution naturally produced unusual excite- 
ment : a large majority were its advocates. 
They considered the event as only a continua- 
tion of the struggle which they had commenced, 
for the emancipation of the world. Others, 
sickened with the effects of their own change, 
viewed it with jaundiced eyes. Great Britain, 
joining in the confederacy against the new 
Republic, and the excesses committed by the 
French, afforded fresh food for the nourishment 
of political parties on this continent. The 
federalists now obtained the additional title of 
English tories, and the democrats, that of 
French jacobins. Revolutionists upon the 
wildest principles flocked to America. The 
French party became so numerous and so 
strong, that those who differed from them were 
in fact exposed to a system of practical pro- 
scription throughout the Union. A head, less 
deliberate and cool than Washington's, would 
have been driven into an open alliance with 
republican France \ as it was, the Gallic am- 
bassador (Genet) nearly set the administration 
aa4 



360 . ME. ADAMSES PRESIDENCY* 

at defiance. So triumphant indeed were these 
advocates of desperate measures, that at one 
period an expression of difference of opinion 
endangered personal safety, and even a list 
of proscribed Americans (among which was 
Mr. John Quincy Adams) was suspended from 
the mast-head of a French frigate in Boston 
harbour. This danger, however, was by pru- 
dence ultimately avoided, and peril from the 
contrary side would seem next to have followed. 
The presidency of Mr. Adams (a federalist) 
succeeded that of Washington. Some of his 
measures were perhaps compelled by the cir- 
cumstances of the times ; but no friend of 
liberty can advocate his fourteen years* natu- 
ralisation law ; his frequent public prosecutions 
for libel ; his plans for a standing army, and his 
aim to obtain the state and style of royalty. 
The effect of his administration was to re-excite 
all the violent and turbulent feelings of the de- 
mocratic party, which Washington's policy had 
allayed. At the termination of the first period 
of his presidency, a desperate conflict ensued ; 
the federal party were defeated in his person for 
the Presidentship by a majority of one. Mr. Jef- 
ferson rose upon his ruins, and from that time to 
the present, the democratic party have sat at the 
helm of state. The unsuccessful attempt at re- 
volution in Ireland, threw into America a con- 
siderable number of well-intentioned perhaps, 



SUDDEN PROSPERITY. 36 1 

but certainly very diseased members of the body 
politic ; while the accession of multitudes of 
the most ignorant classes of society from Hol- 
land and Germany, together with the vast in- 
crease of black population, rapidly added to the 
numerical population, extending the range and 
increasing the produce of manual labour without 
adding any thing that was valuable to, if I may 
so express myself, the stock of national mind, 
America, in the mean time, in her political capa- 
city, was making rapid advances towards taking 
her standing as a first-rate power. Her interna! 
resources were boundless: her geographical 
situation secured her from attack during the 
weakness, as it were, of infancy ; her population 
went on increasing in a ratio not paralleled in 
modern times, but easily to be accounted for 
upon well-known principles of political economy. 
At this time it was that the disturbed state of 
Europe threw into her hands the carrying trade 
of the world, and enabled her to erect a mer- 
cantile marine, only second to that of Great 
Britain. This unexpected, and unprepared-for 
influx of wealth, demoralised, while it enriched ; 
with the people, there was no preparation, no 
pupillage, no gradation, no step from the primi- 
tive log-house to the splendour of the palace. 
European luxury and vice, unadorned by Euro- 
pean knowledge, and not ameliorated by Euro- 
pean habits of refinement, rapidly overspread 



362 WAR OF 1812. 

the land, and produced their natural and unavoid- 
able consequences. The pursuits of the whole 
people assumed also a hazardous and speculative 
cast | opportunities for indulging which were 
constantly presented by the disturbed state of 
European commerce, and by their own vast un- 
peopled continent. The means of living were 
in the hands of every man, with the occupation 
of but one-fourth part of his time. They were 
in possession of political and domestic ease, the 
sources or the value of which their want of 
reflection prevented them from estimating ; and 
having at once the means, the time, and the 
opportunity of gratifying their passions, or 
indulging their indolence, they have not pursued 
learning beyond their school-books. Thus, 
neglecting to encourage any pursuits, either 
individually or collectively, which may be called 
mental, they appear, as a nation, to have sunk 
into habits of indolence and indifference ; they 
are neither lively in their tempers, nor generous 
in their dispositions: though a great political 
nation, they have little science and no literature ; 
and, as individuals, while they are theoretically 
possessed of freedom and independence, they 
are too frequently but mere machines in the 
hands of interested and unprincipled men. 

The war of 1812 forms an important epoch 
in their history j it not only called into action 
all their latent animosities, but it produced an 



CAUSES OF PRESENT CHARACTER. 368 

effect which had not been anticipated. It was 
found that their resources, though vast, and 
even boundless, were as yet unorganised, and 
not of a kind of which they could immediately 
avail themselves. Party violence was extreme 
— loans could not be negociated — government 
securities sold at 53 1 per cent, discount — specie 
had disappeared, and penny and two-penny 
notes were a common circulating medium. A 
convention was held of the New England States, 
which, had not peace intervened to prevent 
their views being carried into execution, would 
probably have terminated in a division of the 
States. Loans, contracts, jobs, smuggling, pecu- 
lation, and fraud, infected every part of the 
Union. The nation suffered, — but, as their 
sufferings were of short duration, they have now 
almost forgotten their existence. 

Looking fairly therefore at all these circum- 
stances we Ought not to be surprised to find 
that American theory is at least two centuries 
in advance of American practice. We have 
usually connected with our ideas of republi- 
canism and unpolished manners, a simplicity and 
honesty of mind which more than compensate 
for all minor defects. That we should not meet 
with even an approach to these characteristics in 
America is by no means extraordinary, when we 
reflect upon their origin and the materials from 
which their present character is derived. The} 
H 



364 CAUSES OF PRESENT CHARACTER. 

were not originally a new people who have 
gradually advanced from barbarism to a know- 
ledge of enlightened political principles ; on the 
contrary, they formed not even the best portion 
of an old stock, and they have been placed in 
novel circumstances, and occupied in pursuits 
little calculated to increase political virtue, or 
advance mental acquirements. Their constitu- 
tion itself is not an original production ; it is 
modelled, in fact, upon that of England, par- 
taking of most of its forms, intermixed with many 
peculiarities of the colonial regime. In the 
instance of Rhode Island, the original charter of 
Charles the Second is its present form of govern- 
ment. The laws of England are at this moment, 
almost without even an attempt at improvement, 
the laws of America. Old Bailey, Hicks's Hall, 
and Westminster Causes, with the acts of George 
the Third, &c. &c. &c. are now cited in the most 
distant courts of law — in the wilderness as well 
as in old America : even the French lawyers in 
Louisiana are compelled to substitute Coke's In- 
stitutes, Blackstone's Commentaries, and East's 
Reports, in the stead of the laws of the ancien re- 
gime, or the mighty modern assistance which cpuld 
have been derived from the Code Napoleon ! 

The theory of education is British, at least 
so far as that name can be given to mere exter- 
nals ; the plans of public schools, mode of study, 
and the authors used, being taken from English 



ENGLISH BOOKS. — THEATRES, &C. 365 

practice, but without the solidity of enquiry, and 
variety of assistance derived both from writers 
and professors, which characterise our present 
establishments. 

The reading of Americans (for I have not 
seen in society an approach to what can be 
called study) is English ; there being few native 
writers, and but a small number of these who 
possess the respect of even their own country- 
men. Our novels and poetry, not excepting 
those which proceed from the Minerva press, 
meet with an immediate reprint, and constitute 
practically the entire American library. 

There are theatres, either stationary or occa- 
sional, in most towns of which the population 
is two thousand and upwards ; yet I know of 
but one native play (Bunker's Hill) : the per- 
formers too are English, at least in the propor- 
tion to Americans of eight out of every ten ; so 
that the stage of this country may justly be de- 
nominated British. Many of the vulgar sayings, 
and still more vulgar prejudices, of our little 
island are transported hither. Frenchmen and 
frogs, Irishmen and bulls, are even the sub- 
jects of Amerian ridicule, and in the un contami- 
nated style of vulgar Cockneyism.* Another 

* In Washington, on last St. Patrick's day, according to 
custom, a figure was stuffed similar to our Guy Faux, and 
called Paddy ; he was placed within the gate of the Navy- 
yard, with pipes, tobacco, and whiskey. — la Philadelphia 



366 DISLIKE OF THE ENGLISH. 

source of intimate communication with England 
exists in the articles of clothing, and nearly 
every domestic utensil, being also the manufac- 
ture of our island. Yet in spite of all these 
various ties of connection with England, and 
with Englishmen, they appear generally to re- 
gard both with jealousy and hatred. Did this 
dislike proceed from correct principles, I should 
think it honourable to their national character ; 
for we, or at least our government, have cer- 
tainly left no means untried to prevent them, in 
the first instance, from obtaining the natural 
rights of men, and — when that was found to be 
impossible, then to blast all the advantages they 
had gained, and crush their rising prosperity. 
But the American hatred of our country is not 
bottomed upon causes which reason would have 
dictated : its component parts cannot be deno- 
minated to be either rational or reflective — it 
is, in source, and in mode of expression, an exact 
parallel to that of our most uneducated classes 
concerning the French people, who always disr 
like Frenchmen, and the only reason they can 
give for such feelings is, because they are 

a gentleman informed me that there were numerous Paddies 
exhibited in the same style ; some were carried by boys, 
begging to " remember poor Paddy/' This offensive practice 
was carried to such an extent in New York a few years back, 
that serious riots were produced by it. There is now a law 
of that corporation prohibiting " Paddies" being exhibited 
on the 17th of March. 



IMITATION OF THE ENGLISH. 36? 

Frenchmen — and because the newspapers have 
said Frenchmen ought to be hated. 

To copy from a nation like England, which is 
so pre-eminently distinguished by knowledge, as 
varied as it is profound, can reflect disgrace on 
no country ; but in the act of imitation there 
should be judicious selection, and not an indis- 
criminate application of institutions and prac- 
tices, which, though perhaps suited to a peculiar 
country, and a very mixed state of society, can- 
not be expected to harmonise with the wants or 
the character of another people, under circum- 
stances and in civil condition essentially different. 
The Americans seem to have forgotten this, and, 
like most imitators, very peculiarly excel in the 
defects of the original. This conduct, on their 
part, is attended with serious disadvantages to 
themselves, and prevents their possession of a 
solid base upon which to erect a purely American 
superstructure. At present their mental streams 
are derived from two sources, (those of the old 
and of the new world,) of opposite qualities, 
either of which used separately, or by a limited 
and judicious admixture, would be beneficial ; 
but as they are suffered to flow on to the point 
of their junction without interruption or purifi- 
cation, they only produce muddy and infectious 
waters. Converse with an American upon the 
condition of the world at large, its political 
situation and true interests, he is rarely clear- 



368 IMITATION. — VANITY. 

headed ; not from want of capacity, but the 
sources of his knowledge have been so jumbled, 
and his information in general is so ill-arranged, 
that he is often, in the same breath, an advocate 
for the extremes of liberty and of slavery* The 
nation at large dislike England, and yet, both in- 
dividually and collectively, would be offended 
should a hint be expressed that they were of Irish 
or of Dutch, and not of English, descent. They 
contend for the superiority of their genius in 
taste, mechanical arts, and literature, and yet 
they disregard fashions or books which are not 
imported from Great Britain. Notwithstanding 
this voluntary national dependence, there are, 
perhaps, no people, not even exceptingtheFrench, 
who are so vain as the Americans ; their self-esti- 
unation, and cool-headed bombast, when speaking 
of themselves or their country, are quite ludi- 
crous: An anecdote is told of General Moreau, 
who, at the commencement of the late war with 
England, was in America : a friend, addressing 
him, observed that his military talents would be 
of essential service to the Republic. He replied 
m the negative ; adding, that there was not a 
drummer in the American army who did not 
think himself equal to General Moreau. This fact 
will apply to all occupations with an equal degree 
of faithfulness. Every man here thinks he has 
arrived at the acme of perfection : the mechanics 
themselves possess the same feeling. When at 
r 3 * 



NATIONAL VANITY. 369 

Newark, I was informed that some choice designs 
in chair-japanning and coach-plating were lately 
produced by two emigrants ; the natives turned 
upon their heels, " Ay, they guessed them 'ere 
" were fashions they had left off." Every Ameri- 
can considers that it is impossible for a foreigner 
to teach him any thing, and that his head contains 
a perfect encyclopaedia. This excessive inflation 
of mind must be attended with many disadvan- 
tages ; though when I look at the various causes 
which have combined to produce it, I am not 
much surprised at its existence. Asa people, they 
feel that they have got to gain a character, and, 
like individuals under similar circumstances, are 
captious and conceited in proportion to their 
defects. They appear to aim at a standard of 
high reputation, without the laborious task of 
deserving it, and practise upon themselves the 
self-deception of believing that they really are 
that which they only wish to be. This feeling 
has not been lessened by their successes in the 
late contest with Great Britain ; for, although in 
several engagements on our favourite element 
they had an overwhelming superiority, yet there 
were instances when that was not the case ; and 
the defeat of English frigates, with even any 
disparity of force, was too great an honour to be 
estimated exactly as it merited. The boasting 
upon this subject is so extravagant that it 
burlesques the object of its praise. " America 

B B 



370 NAVAL SUCCESSES. 

" is now the ruler of the waves ;" and every 
song and joke, fact and falsehood, that we have 
bestowed upon our tars, are transferred to the 
" Star-spangled banner, and the brave sons of 
" Columbia," with the characteristic fidelity of 
a national intellect, rendered barren from want 
of culture ; and even on such an occasion has 
hardly produced an attempt at originality. * 

* The following naval songs are in high repute. The 
servility of imitation which they exhibit (it is not even pre- 
tended that they are parodies) is a just characteristic of not 
merely American song-making, but of almost every pursuit 
in this country. 

SONG. 
« Tune — Battle of the Nile, 
" Arise ! arise ! Columbia's sons arise ! 
«« And shake off the torpor of sloth and inactivity ; 
" And while the loud cannon reverb 'rates to the skies, 
" United swear to perish or be free ! — 
" For mark where her Genius, on her mountains standing, 
" Cries with a voice impressive and commanding, 
?? When heart and hand unites 
" To guard our country's rights, 
" Then death or independence still the watch-word shall be. 
" Huzza ! Huzza ! Huzza ! Huzza, ! Huzza ! Boys ! 
il Rally round the standard which Liberty first 

« planted here ; 
" Huzza ! Huzza ! Huzza ! Huzza ! Huzza ! Boys ! 
" Columbia's sons will perish or live free !" 

SONG. 

" Tune — Pull away, yeo ho, Bdys, 
'* Yankee sailors have a knack, 

" Haul away ! yeo ho, boys ! 
«f Pulling down a British Jack, 

" 'Gainst any odds you know, boys. 



THE LATE WAR. 871 

My knowledge of the details of the late war 
was extremely limited when I first landed in 
this country. A short residence here, however, 
will force upon the attention of all persons an 
acquaintance with naval history. Every man, 
woman, and child in America talk about the 
Guerriere, the Java, the Macedonia, the Frolic, 
Lake Erie, Lake Champlain, and the " vast 
" inferiority of British sailors and soldiers to 
" the true-blooded Yankees." A non-inter- 
course act seems to have passed against the 
sciences, morals, and literature in American 
society ; even the ladies are content to be silent, 
or, when they do express an idea, it is sure to 
contain the refined and intellectual names of 
Commodore Hull, Captain Laurence, and Ge- 
neral Jackson. A knowledge of such events 
is certainly desirable ; but to cause them, as 
they are here, to be the never-ending theme of 
conversation, the circle round which everything 
revolves, is to make the going into society a 
punishment instead of a pleasure. This ten- 
dency is stated to have been finely ridiculed by 
Mr. Jeffrey, of the Edinburgh Review, who visited 
this country soon after the war. To a question 



" Gome three to one, right sure am I, 
" If we can't beat them, still we'll try, 
" To make Columbia's colours fly, 
" Haul away 1 yeo ho, boys V 
B B 2 



$7% NAVAL AFFAIRS. 

snid to have been put to him by Mr. Madison, 
" What did you think of the war, Mr. Jeffrey ?" 
he coolly replied, " Upon my word, Sir, I did 
" not hear of it." 

Naval affairs being so frequently the subject 
of remark, I took some trouble to investigate 
the real facts relating to them ; and found that 
a large body of the American seamen were 
British subjects ; and that, more particularly, 
the forces of their vessels almost ensured 
success. In the first victory, that of the 
" Constitution" over the " Guerriere," Mr. 
James, author of the able work entitled, 
" The Naval Occurrences of the late War," 
states the broad-side metal in pounds of the 
American was 768 ; of the British, 517 *• the 
American complement of men, 468 ; of British, 
%63: of size in tons of the American, 1533; of 
British, 1084. In the affair of the "United 
States" and " Constitution," which defeated 
the " Macedonian" and " Java," a similar dis- 
parity existed ; and in the Lake Erie fleet, the 
American amount of broad-side metal in pounds 
was 928 ; of British, 459 : the size in tons, 1530 j 
of British, 865 : in complement of men, 580 ; 
of British, 345. These are matters about which 
I should have known little, and cared less, had 
they not been in American society the eternal 
source of conversation, to the exclusion of every 
subject of taste, morals, or literature, — indeed 



LORDS OF THE OCEAN. 373 

of every other, except the praise of priests, and 
the price of cotton, flour, and niggars. 

The tyrannical conduct of our government 
in naval affairs, their system of impressment and 
of flogging, and the absurd and insolent claim 
of the right of search, might well, particularly 
the last, have exasperated the American nation, 
and more especially her seamen ; still the 
Americans are deserving of great honour for 
what they really achieved. School-boys in the 
art of war, they were yet better prepared for it, 
and evinced more practical dexterity, than our 
hoary-headed practitioners. But with this 
limited degree of praise, they are not content ; 
they are, forsooth, " the Lords of the ocean !" 
" Neptune's choicest sons !" " Victorious, 
" though the English had great superiority of 
" force !" " The star-spangled banner is the 
" astonishment, the admiration, and the^lory 
" of the world !" — with volumes more of such 
frothy, senseless bombast. 

Other causes of their great national pride and 
vanity suggest themselves to the mind. One 
may consist in their being so far removed from 
the seat of the arts and sciences, that their ac- 
quirements are not tried by the only effectual 
standard — comparison. They are left in undis- 
puted possession of the belief, that infancy is 
manhood; that puerility is superiority; and that 
b b 3 



374 ACCOUNTS OF AMERICA. 

mediocrity is first-rate talent. They have a poli- 
tical republic within themselves ; but they send 
scarcely one representative to the general re- 
public of letters. European writers too, who 
have never actually visited America, taking 
their ideas of the inhabitants, their manners 
and institutions, from the laws and political con- 
stitution of the country* have frequently been 
profuse in their eulogies. Speculating emigrants, 
from interested motives, have followed in the 
same track. American authors, in the sincerity 
of their hearts, have re-echoed these praises, while 
politicians, among whom I regret to see Mr. 
Munroe occupying a prominent part, have told 
them that they are " the most enlightened nation 
" in the world!/" Americans would be more 
than human, were they not injured by this 
powerful combination against their national im- 
provement. Man's vanity is of all points the 
most tender; and there are few, I believe, willing 
to reject flattery, even from any source, or to 
any extent. So far indeed is this carried in the 
United States, that if a traveller should point 
out the smallest defect or error, no enquiry is 
ever made by the Americans into the truth of 
the charge ; the writer is immediately viewed 
as a foul calumniator, or guilty of premedi- 
tated falsehood and intentional insult; and is 
not unlikely to be denominated a hireling, in 
the pay of some foreign government. Should 

6 



SOCIAL INSUBORDINATION, 3^5 

this tone of thinking remain uncorrected, it 
cannot but produce the most pernicious effects. 
By such a course, improvement must be checked 
and error perpetuated. The vanity of this peo- 
ple may thus be gratified ; but they must be 
content to remain children in knowledge and 
improvement of every kind, and submit to 
be rocked for ages in the cradle of European 
intellect. 

There are additional considerations worthy of 
©ur attention in forming a correct estimate of 
the American people. One which suggests 
itself is, the want of social subordination which 
exists among them. Servants feel themselves 
independent of their employers, and children of 
their parents. This may be attended with some 
advantages ; it may please, when contrasted with 
the degrading slavery of the European world ; 
but it is not free from serious and peculiar evils. 
It increases selfish feelings and pursuits ; it 
individualises society ; and prevents a develope- 
ment of those sockd qualities which are of im- 
portant benefit to, as well as the greatest orna- 
ment of our nature. Early Marriages partly 
proceed perhaps from this state of things, though 
the great source of their frequency is certainly, 
in conformity with a well-known theory — the 
ease with which the necessaries of life can be 
obtained. Arguments are not wanting in favour 
of youthful matrimonial engagements ; and, 
b b 4 



876 THE FEMALE CHARACTER. 

without considering the matter in an individual 
point of view, it certainly contributes to the 
more rapid advancement of a country re- 
quiring population. Yet, strong as such rea- 
sons may be, I should, if morally considered, 
hesitate in bearing my testimony to their so- 
lidity. The youth of twenty, and the female 
of fourteen, are ill fitted for the cares, anxie- 
ties, and education of a family — neither their 
bodily nor mental strength has attained ma- 
turity. Those days also which ought to be 
devoted to the acquirement of solid information, 
and to the improving, perhaps it may be said, 
to the creating the character, are necessarily 
devoted to other objects. The cares of life, 
under such circumstances, begin to press upon 
individuals who have not previously had time or 
opportunity to learn its duties. No provision has 
been made for the support of a rising family — to 
this, therefore, every other object will generally 
be sacrificed : by these means a sordid and calcu- 
lating spirit is engendered — the more generous 
feelings of our nature acquire neither strength 
nor stability ; and every mental and ennobling 
pursuit is abandoned with a view to the getting 
on in life. 

The American female character requires our 
attention : in mental pursuits it would appear 
to be at present but little advanced. This pro- 
ceeds, no doubt, from a variety of causes ; all 



STATESMAN. 377 

that has been said of the male population, by a 
natural re-action affecting the female also. The 
demand, too, (if I may be excused a mercantile 
phrase upon such a subject,) exceeding the sup- 
ply, together with the comparatively less value 
set upon domestic comfort, may, perhaps, have 
tended to produce the extreme attention to mere 
personal ornament, and the universal neglect of 
either mental or domestic knowledge, which ap- 
pears to exist among the females here, as com- 
pared with those of England. 

The reflections generated by these consider- 
ations are, what my personal observation has 
confirmed — that a great part of the nation are 
content to be employed in procuring the first 
necessaries of life, and in mere animal enjoy- 
ment. These several causes may have assisted 
in the production of a general fact, that here 
all knowledge, beyond that of immediate pecu- 
niary interest, is superficial. 

The statesman of America has heretofore been 
altogether of a different, and, perhaps, a superior 
race to those of Europe. There has been in this 
country nothing of the regularly -trained and 
family-born great man. A senator, a secretary of 
state, or a president, is commonly a lawyer, who 
has risen by his talents or perseverance ; and, in 
addition, he is not unfrequently a farmer : and 
when his official duties have terminated, he re- 
turns from Washington to his home, and re- 



3'7S SLAVERY. INDIANS. 

siimes his former occupations. From this 
domestic and sound mode of conducting the 
public weal, there has of late years been a par- 
tial deviation. Certain families have edged 
themselves into government-offices, and have 
proved to be, in practice at least, adherents 
of the doctrine of hereditary descent ; yet the 
general features remain as described : and, how- 
ever discordant the fact may appear with the 
principles of legitimacy, I believe none will be 
found hardy enough to assert, that these men 
display any want of the knowledge or ability re- 
quired by their station ; or that they do not 
play their parts with as much vigour, effect, 
and integrity, as if they had been the descend- 
ants of an ancient and titled aristocracy. * 

The existence of slavery in the United States 
has a most visible effect upon the national 
character. It necessarily brutalizes the minds 
of the southern and western inhabitants ; it 
lowers, indeed, the tone of iaumane and correct 

* To judge, indeed, by the amount of salaries, there must 
be a lamentable deficiency of intellect on the part of the 
Republican statesmen : — 

The President of the United States receives an annual 
salary of only 56251. and this is found to procure able men, 
who have really talent and mind at their otvn disposal. The 
Vice-President, Secretary of State, and Chief Justice, each 
are paid 11253. per annum ; other Judges, 9001. ; the Se- 
cretaries of the Treasury, War, and Navy departments, each 
9001. per annum ; the Governor of the State of New York, 
16871. 10s. ; ditto of Vermont, 1351. ! ! 



LAWS. BANKRUPTS. 



3J9 



feeling throughout the Union ; and impercepti- 
bly contributes to the existence of that great 
difference which here exists between theory and 
practice. JThe treatment of the Indian nations 
is but ill calculated to excite liberal or humane 
feelings ; for, however Mr. Munroe and others 
may attempt to philosophize upon the benefits 
which arise from uncivilized man's making way 
before a more " dense population," the admitted 
fact is, that Americans are making continued 
encroachments upon the aboriginal inhabitants, 
either under the semblance of treaties, or by 
direct warfare, produced, as the present one is 
said to have been, by designed aggressions, and 
aggravating insults on the part of the people of 
the United States. 

The diversity of laws in separate States, by 
which acts considered as a crime in one part 
are not punishable in another, and also many 
confused impressions of right and wrong, gene- 
rate much evil, while the state of the bankrupt 
laws, and an immense and complicated paper 
currency *, are universal and increasing evils ; 
each of these having opened an extensive field 
to the calculations of avidity and the specu- 

* The New York brokers publish a weekly list of the 
price of the notes of all parts of the Union, in the money- 
market of that city. There are notes of all the banks to be 
had at every variety of price, from ~ per cent, to 40 per cent, 
discount, 



380 PAUPERS. 

lations of the dishonest. The list of insolvencies 
in the State from which I now write is enormous. 
Failure in trade, so far from being a cause of 
loss, or a subject of shame, is generally the 
means of securing a fortune ; and so callous 
upon this subject has the public mind become, 
that no kind of disadvantage or disgrace at- 
taches to the individual, who takes, therefore, 
little pains to disguise the source of his wealth. 

Although pauperism has not arrived at Eng- 
lish maturity, nor does it often attract the pub- 
lic eye (for myself, I have seen but three 
beggars, one of whom accosted me in the gal- 
lery of the House of Representatives in Wash- 
ington) ; yet it does exist, and that to au 
extent which I had not imagined until the pe- 
rusal of Governor Clinton's most able address 
to the New York legislature. He there re- 
marks — " Our statutes relating to the poor are 
" borrowed from the English system. And the 
" experience of that country as well as our own 
" shows that pauperism increases with the aug- 
" mentation of the funds applied to its relief. 
" This evil has proceeded to such an alarming 
" extent in the city of New York, that the 
" burdens of heavy taxation which it has im- 
*' posed, menace a diminution of the popula- 
" tion of that city, and a depreciation of its real 
" property. The consequences will be very 
" injurious to the whole State ; for the decay 



LOTTERIES. 381 

" of our great market will be felt in every de- 
" partment of productive labour. Under the 
" present system the fruits of industry are ap- 
" propriated to the wants of idleness ; a labo- 
" rious poor man is taxed for the support of an 
" idle beggar ; and the voice of mendicity, no 
" longer considered degrading, infects a con- 
" siderable portion of our population in large 
" towns. I am persuaded that the sooner a ra- 
" dical reform takes place, the better. The evil 
" is contagious, and a prompt extirpation can 
" alone prevent its pernicious extension." 

To pauperism may be added lotteries, which 
are numerous in all the States ; and in many 
the English exploded iniquity of insurance, and 
" little goes" exist in full operation. 

The commerce of the United States has expe- 
rienced a great revival since 1815. During the 
calamitous period of war, the merchant-ships 
were rotting, and their owners became bank- 
rupt. The following statement, the amounts 
of which are in dollars, copied from official re- 
ports, presents a most interesting detail of the 
trade of America at this time : — 

Exports for the Year ending Sept. 30. 181 7. 

The domestic products or manufactures ex- 
ported, amounted to - Dollars 68,313,500 

Thejbreign products or manufactures - 19, 358,069 

, Total •• Dollars 87,671,569 



382 EXPORTS, 1817. 

The exports were, 

Domestic. Foreign. 

To the northern countries of Europe 3,828,563 2,790,408 

Dominions of the Netherlands 3,397,775 2,387,553 

Ditto of Great Britain 41,431,168 2,037,074 

Ditto of France - 9,717,423 2,717,395 

Ditto of Spain - 4,530,156 3,893,780 

Ditto of Portugal - 1,501,237 333,586 

All other dominions - 3,907,178 5,198,283 



Dollars 68,313,500 19,358,069 

The exports were, 

Domestic. Foreign. Total. 

From NewHampshire 170,599 26,825 197,424 

Vermont - 913,201 913,201 

Massachusetts - 5,908,416 6,019,581 11,927,997 

Rhode Island - 577,911 372,556 950,467 

Connecticut - 574,290 29,849 604,139 

New York - 13,660,733 5,046,700 18,707,433 

New Jersey - 5,849 ■ 5,849 

Pennsylvania 5,538,003 3,197,589 8,735,592 

Delaware - 38,771 6,083 44,854 

Maryland - 5,887,884 3,046,046 8,933,930 

Dist. of Columbia 1,689,102 79,556 1,768,658 

Virginia - 5,561,238 60,204 5,621,442 

North Carolina 955,211 1,369 956,580 

South Carolina 9,944,443 428,270 10,372,613 

Georgia - 8,530,831 259,883 8,790,714 

Ohio - - 7,749 7,749 

Louisiana - 8,241,254 783,558 9,024,812 

Michigan Territory 64,228 64,228 

Mississippi do. - 43,887 43,887 



Dollars 68,313,500 19,358,069 87,671,956 



Of these exports there were — 

1. Derived from the sea - - Dollars 1,671,000 

2. from the forest - . - 6,484,000 

3. from agriculture - - 57,222,000 

4. from manufactures - - 2,202,000 
Uncertain .... 734,000 



FINANCES. 383 

The duties collected on the importation of articles, 
which were afterwards re-exported, without being en- 
titled to drawback, amounted to 627,206 dollars 37 cents. 

Thcjlour exported from October 1. 1816, to Sep- 
tember SO. 1817, amounted to - Dollars 17,751,376 
The Sea Island Cotton exported within the same 

time ----- 3,240,752 

Other Cotton exported, amounted to - 19,386,862 

Tobacco, amounted to 9,230,020 

Rice ----- 2,378,880 

Fish ----- 1,328,050 

Timber and Lumber, of all descriptions - 3,381,349 

Pot and Pearl Ashes - - - 1,967,243 

These form the principal exports of domestic pro- 
duct: the iron, in all shapes, exported, amounted to 
138,5/9 dollars. Amongst the most curious exports 
may be ranked maple sugar, which amounted to 4,374 
dollars. The gunpowder exported, amounted to 
356,522 dollars. 

Although this does not equal in amount the 
business done previous to the issuing of the 
English Orders in Council, it is still very large 
in extent ; and the articles of export being all 
balky, they operate as an important nursery for 
seamen. * 

The finances of the United States are de- 
rived from sale of lands, and duties on imports. 

* Among the articles of import to the ports of New York, 
Philadelphia, and Baltimore, it is a curious fact, that English 
coal, cheese, potatoes, and porter are frequent : in the more 
southern States, including even New Orleans (the depot for 
western country produce), Irish provisions, and English 
cheese and hams are imported ! 



384* LIBERTY OF THE PRESS. 

The latter, in an especial degree, are found very 
productive. Still this is in fact, though it may 
not be in name, internal taxation. It may be 
well to remember, that one-half of the amount 
collected is upon British goods, most of which 
are articles, not of luxury, but of necessity ; so 
that the population of America perform the 
double duty of defraying their own taxes, and 
contributing towards the payment of ours. 

The Liberty of the Press exists here to an 
almost unlimited extent : and yet it is not used 
as an organ for putting the people in possession 
of even domestic information. The newspapers 
are miserably edited, seldom containing any 
thing but advertisements, shipping intelligence, 
and English extracts. The proceedings of Con- 
gress are not systematically reported. Some- 
times the substance of a debate will be given 
three weeks after its occurrence. The business 
of the State-legislatures rarely appears at all 
in the public journals, except in the shape of 
bare lists of bills passed or rejected. The 
transactions in courts of law, and all minor home 
proceedings, rarely appear upon record. These 
sins of omission are certainly to be lamented, as, 
by their existence, an interest fails to be ex- 
cited in the public mind on those occurrences, 
and those subjects, which are, unquestionably, 
of first-rate importance. During the late war, it 
is stated, a military scheme, modelled upon the 



GOVERNMENT. — MECHANIC ARTS, 385 

French law of conscription was in the contem- 
plation of the then Secretary, but now President, 
Munroe ; the chief of the naval department also 
recommended to Congress, a plan for the im- 
pressment of seamen, to man their infant navy ; 
but such is the habitual indolence of the people, 
and their indifference with regard to public 
affairs, that these events are known but by few 
individuals. 

The Government, it will be seen, are not free 
from charges of maladministration but when 
compared with England, America can afford an 
annual increase of corruption for, at least, a 
few centuries to come 5 and although the 
people are unworthy of, and not alive to their 
unequalled advantages, they still are their own 
governors, and they are vain of the distinction. 
This one fact, assisted by the jealousy of rival 
parties, must preserve the United States for 
many years, from any lengthened series of ob- 
noxious measures, and protect the people from 
gross inroads upon their liberties or their con- 
stitution. 

The state of mechanic arts varies, of course, 
according to the profession. Those which have 
been encouraged by not being exposed to Eu- 
ropean competition, and which have had the com- 
bined benefit of emigrant and native ingenuity 
have excelled. Among these I would class 
shoe, coach, and cabinet-making, together with 

c c 



38(5 LITERATURE. 

steam-boat and ship-building : I was going to 
say bank-note engraving, but that would not, 
perhaps, be correct as a general statement of 
the art in America, though the house of Murray, 
Draper, and Fairman, of Philadelphia, probably 
surpass in the excellence of their art any 
others in the world : their notes, executed for 
the United States' Bank, exhibit such eminent 
talent, that forgery may safely be said to be im- 
possible* Why does not your Bank of England 
employ this house ? or, if that would be too hu- 
miliating to their pride, why not engage a first- 
rate English Artist, instead of issuing premiums 
upon forgery, in their disgracefully executed 
national notes ? Piano-forte making may be si- 
milarly classed : generally, it has not arrived at 
much perfection, although an individual, (Mr. 
Stuart, an English gentleman,) who lives at Bal- 
timore, manufactures pianos which I sh ould 
have little fear of comparing with those of Cle- 
menti or Broad wood. 

Of the literature of the United States I can 
say but little. Having examined booksellers' 
collections, private and public libraries, I find 
that, like dry goods stores, their stock consists 
only of British manufactures. Three American 
works have lately appeared : the first, a novel, 
called " Keep Cool," I have met with in most of 
the western and southern States. Upon its merits 
I cannot pretend to give an opinion. I took it 

*5 



NEW WORKS. 387 

up several times, with a previous resolution to 
read at least six pages, but at no one time could 
I force myself through a third. With Mr. Wirt's 
" Life of Patrick Henry" I have been much 
interested : it evinces a mind familiar with polite 
literature ; and if the title were altered from the 
" Life of Patrick Henry," to that of " Sundry 
" Essays, designed to prove the elegance of the 
" English Language, the extent of the author's 
" powers of imagination and talent of descrip- 
" tion, with occasional hints concerning the Life 
" of Patrick Henry," it would be more descrip- 
tive of the book : for any reader who takes up 
this work with the design of becoming acquainted 
with the late Virginian patriot, will find fre- 
quent disappointment, on the introduction of 
each incident of Mr. Henry's life, by the extra- 
vagant bombast of the biographer. The work, 
in short, though bearing evidence of consider- 
able talent, evinces, from the commencement 
to the termination, a disregard of the requisites 
for the task which is undertaken, and this by 
allotting to Patrick Henry a station in the drama 
inferior to that of the author, Mr. Wirt. 

Mr. Bristed's " Resources of the United 
" States," has just been published. The au- 
thor, I am informed, is an Englishman by birth. 
His work evinces that he is an American Fede- 
ralist by adoption. It contains many important 
statements, and the usual political admixture 
cc2' 



o88 

which distinguishes the American writers (par- 
ticularly those of this gentleman's party) upon 
Government. The following maxims are laid 
down, in connection with the broadest principles 
of liberty, the whole presenting a code of poli- 
tical economy for which it is difficult to invent 
a name. " It is the duty of every free Govern- 
" ment to train its people gradually to bear 
" a due weight of internal taxation" — " It is 
" worse than childish, it is insane policy" (a 
compliment to the President) " to trust for the 
" public revenue to the duties upon imported 
" goods." — " The reduction of the direct tax 
" from six to three millions of dollars, and the 
" limitation of those three millions to only one 
" year, are fearful omens of the entire extinction 
" of that tax /" ■— " The liberties of Britain are 
" not about to expire under the pressure of her 
" military, or the encroachments of her govern- 
" ment If they are to perish, they will perish 
" under the daggers of her Democracy. If she 
" is to be blotted out of the list of independent 
" and powerful nations, it will be by the parri- 
€t cidical hand of her own rabble, led on to their 
" own and their country 9 s ruin, by anarchical re- 
< s formers, alike bankrupt in fortune, reputation, 
" character, and principle I" — Yet, it is said, " to 
" crown, all, the Political Sovereignty of the 
" nation residing in the people gives the American 
" people an elevation unknown and unattainable in 



ENGLISH REFORMERS.— SALMAGUNDI. 389 

* 6 any other country" — " Liberty has struck deep 
6< root in this country. It is entwined with the 
". first affections of the heart: it is spun into 
44 the primitive staple of the mental frame ol 
" the Americans. It thoroughly pervades, and 
" perceptively modifies even their domestic life. 
" It has, in fine, become the common reason, 
" and the want of the whole American people." 
« — " The prosperity and happiness of the Ame- 
c( rican citizens seem too great a price to pay 
" for the privilege of manufacturing a few yards 
" of broad cloth, or a few pieces of muslin; 
ct England herself is a portentous illustration of 
" this truth : now at this time, and for the last 
" five and twenty years, her manufacturing dis- 
" tricts have sent forth, and are issuing out, full 
" bands of Luddites and Spenceans, and Jaco- 
" bins and anarchists, and rebels and assassins, 
" that continually put to the strength, and 
" strain the nerves of her Government." — 
I send these extracts for the purpose of present- 
ing you at one view r the mind of the whole 
Federal party, and indeed that of the entire 
American people, concerning English reformers 
and United States' liberty. 

Salmagundi *, a work written after the man- 

* Of this work I perceive an English edition has been pub- 
lished, with notes and a preface by the editor, illustrative 
of the character of the Americans ; but upon the merits of 
those, not having read them, I can give no opinion. 
c c S 



3 ( j0 FUTURE IMPROVEMENT. 

ner of the Citizen of the World, is a most 
able native production: for amusement, wit, 
talent, and satire I should conceive it can have 
few equals. Mr. Erving, the present ambas- 
sador at the court of Madrid, is said to be one 
of the authors. Mr. Quincy Adams has pub- 
lished Lectures delivered at Cambridge College, in 
two volumes. You have, I believe, Joel Bar- 
low's national epic, " The Columbiad" There 
are several other American works ; but, upon 
the whole, the native library is extremely cir- 
cumscribed* 

In the Fine Arts much advancement has not 
been made. Individuals have excelled, as in 
the cases of Mr. Alston and Mr. West, both 
natives of America. The proofs of their talent, 
but particularly those of the latter, must descend 
to future ages. Still, the mind of the American 
nation is scarcely alive to an enjoyment of the 
more noble productions of art, or the higher 
walks of mental cultivation. 

I have thus endeavoured to lay before you a 
true representation of the American character, 
with the sources from which it may have been 
formed, and the causes which have conduced 
to its production. Although 1 believe it must 
improve, yet I am by no means sanguine in my 
anticipations that improvement will be imme- 
diate, or even rapid in its progress. Many of 
the causes, external and internal, which have 



mr* bikrbeck's "notes/' 391 

already operated, will continue to exist ; and, as 
I have before said, there would appear to be 
placed in the very stamina of the character of this 
people, a coldness, a selfishness, and a spirit o* 
conceit, which form strong barriers against im- 
provement. Let us, however, still hope for the 
best. In opposition to these obstacles, there are 
strong and living truths abroad. The princi* 
pies at least of liberty are acknowledged, and 
the fact of a free government exists as an ex- 
ample to the world. As rational men, these 
things are worthy of our respect; and, in the 
hand of Heaven, we may be assured that all the 
rest, however dark and unintelligible to us it 
may appear, will still finally and effectually 
" work together for good." 

27th April, 1818. — A packet of your letters 
is just arrived, bearing date March 3d. You can 
scarcely conceive, my dear friends, the delight 
which their perusal has afforded me. I could fain 
have launched out into praises of the inventor of 
writing and the establishment of post-offices : but 
these are stale topics. Your statement of the 
non-arrival of my Philadelphia and Illinois Re- 
ports give me some uneasiness, though I can 
have little doubt but that they are now in your 
possession ; as I perceive, by the recent ship news, 
that the vessels which conveyed them had ar- 
rived in England. You state that Mr. Birkbeck 
has published a book in London, " Notes on a 
c c 4f 



$92 MR. BIRKBECK'S " NOTES." 

" Journey to Illinos," and that it has produced 
an extraordinary sensation. This intelligence 
does not at all surprise me, and my ideas, upon 
the perusal of that work, as published in this 
country, were, that in several of its occasional ad- 
missions it confirms my sentiments. I have this 
day re-read it with minute attention, and feel so 
confirmed in my first impressions, that I expe- 
rience an increased dependence upon my views 
of this nation, from having the support of 
Mr. Birkbeck's high authority. 

As Captain will not sail until the 29th, 

I have nearly two days of leisure, and I do 
not know that they can be better occupied 
than in making some remarks upon Mr. Birk- 
beck's " Notes," which may tend to illustrate 
Bt once that gentleman's views of America and 
my own. My references are to the American 
edition : this will occasion you some trouble, 
but that, under my present circumstances, I 
cannot prevent. 

Mr. Birkbeck's entrance into this republic 
was not, with regard to local circumstances, 
quite so favourable as mine. The State in which 
he landed is one of the twelve in which absolute 
slavery exists, whilst, on the contrary, in that 
I first visited, actual slavery had been abolished 
by law, and it only continues to linger among 
the 'practical institutions of the people. 

Mr. B, says, (at page 22.) " I could hardly 



VIRGINIAN PLANTERS. SQ3 

u bear to see negroes handled like eattle ; in 
" selling these unhappy beings, little regard is 
" had to the parting of the nearest relations." 

While waiting at a tavern, Mr. B. is fur- 
nished with evidence of the intellectual cha- 
racter of the Virginians, of which, by the way, 
I cannot but think his estimation is far beyond 
their deserts ; — 

" As it rained heavily, every body was con- 
" fined the whole day to the tavern, after the 
"■ race which took place in the forenoon. The 
** conversation which this afforded me an oppor- 
" tunity of hearing, gave me a high opinion 
" of the intellectual cultivation of these Vh> 
" ginian farmers." (Page 16.) 

I have frequently partaken in the conversa- 
tion of the same class of individuals, and in no 
instance could I conscientiously draw the same 
conclusion with Mr. Birkbeck. Mr. B. however, 
in the succeeding paragraph, furnishes his 
readers with the evidence upon which his 
judgment is formed. 

" Negro slavery was the prevailing topic, 
" the beginning, the middle, and the end, — an 
" evil uppermost in every man's thoughts, which 
" all deplored, many were anxious to fly from, 
" but for which no man can devise a remedy. 
" One gentleman, in a poor state of health, 
" dared not encounter the rain, but was wretch- 
" ed at the thought of his family being for one 



394: MR. BIRKBECK's " NOTES.** 

" night without his protection from his own 
" slaves." (Page 17.) 

Yet at the same time it is said, " Virginia 
" prides itself on the comparative mildness of 
" its treatment of slaves V* (Page 22.) 

Mr. Birkbeck's gratitude for the liberal re- 
ception which he experienced from " the high- 
" spirited independence of the Virginians,'* 
must surely have biassed his judgment, when he 
coneluded, " that slavery was an evil uppermost 
" in every man's thoughts, and which all de- 
" plored" That indeed many feel they cannot 
defend this system by a reference to abstract 
principles, or the rights of man; that they 
dread the terrible though rarely inflicted ven- 
geance of their victims, is probable enough ; and 
that when they are engaged in argument with 
an able and enlightened opponent, and cannot 
defend the strange inconsistency existing be- 
tween their professed love of political freedom 
and their actual domestic tyranny j that they 
should then, I say, and under such circum- 
stances, deplore the evils of slavery, is natural 
enough ; but that they are sincere advocates for 
its abolition, or even for a mitigation of its hor- 
rors, is what I have not seen the shadow of an 
evidence to induce me to believe; neither could 
I have supposed that Mr. Birkbeck would have 
been so unphilosophical as to conclude, that the 
mere assent to an abstract proposition when the 



THANKSGIVING, AND NEGROES ON SALE. 395 

mind is not at the moment interested in its 
denial, is to be fairly taken as a just criterion, 
by which to judge of the true feelings and cha- 
racter of a people. Let them be judged by their 
actions ; — it is these only that speak the man. 

Mr. Birkbeck says, " A Virginian planter is 
" a republican in politics, and exhibits the high- 
" spirited independence of that character." 
(Page 16.) 

Feeling a sincere respect for a character really 
deserving of this high commendation, I cannot 
willingly award it to slave-holders. The fol- 
lowing advertisements I take from a newspaper, 
as affording some evidence upon the consistency 
of the " Virginian character :" they were printed 
as they stand, adjoining each other. They 
speak a language too plain to require comment ; 
I therefore leave them to their naked merit. 

i( The Synod of Virginia having, at their last meeting, ap- 
«« pointed the first Thursday in December to be observed, by 
" all the churches under their care, as a day of Thanksgiving 
" to God for the bounties of his providence and the blessings 
" of his grace, to be accompanied with humble supplication 
u for the continuance of the former and the increase of the 
" latter ; I propose, in cheerful compliance with the resolu- 
" tion of Synod, to preach on the occasion to-morrow at 
** eleven o'clock in the forenoon, in the new methodist 
" church on Shockhoe-Hill; leave having been given. 

" John D. Blair." 

« NEGROES AT AUCTION. 
•' This morning, in front of our office, at 11 o'clock, 
" will be sold for cash, 4< Likely Negroes. 

" J. Brown, Jr. and W. Finney, Auctioneers, 



396 MR. BIRKBECK's " NOTES. 55 

Mr. Birkbeck's departure from this State is in 
a tone of liberal feeling. He observes (page 30.) 
" On taking leave of Virginia, I must observe 
" that I found more misery in the condition of 
" the negroes and a much higher tone of moral 
" feeling in their owners than I had anticipated, 
" and I depart confirmed in my detestation of 
H slavery in principle and practice, but with 
" esteem for the general character of the Vir- 
" ginians! ' !" 

The precise nature of Mr. Birkbeck's expect- 
ations as to the " tone of moral feeling" which he 
should find existing among the Virginian planters, 
it is scarcely perhaps possible to ascertain, or, 
consequently, to canvass. I can only hope 
that the use of such an expression at all may 
not, however unintentionally, have the effect 
of misleading ; for I must own I can have 
no conception of the existence of a " tone of 
" moral feeling" among men who falsify, and 
that not by occasional misdeeds, but by the whole 
tenor of their conduct, and every habit of their 
character, even the possibility of its existence. 
Indeed I would put it to any advocate of 
liberal and of enlightened political principles, 
how far it is really possible for us, on cool 
reflection, to entertain " esteem for the general 
" character of the Virginians," or whether it 
be possible to respect men who profess the most 
enlightened opinions, and yet are, in Mr. Birk- 



HABITS OF LABOURERS. 397 

beck's language, " slave-masters, irascible, and 
" too often lax in morals i" and of whom " a dirk 
" is said to be the common appendage to their 
(i dress," 

The character of the Americans generally 
is a subject of great interest to all who contem- 
plate becoming their fellow-citizens. Mr. Birk- 
beck is diffuse upon this subject ; he remarks 
(p. 40.) " that in every department of com- 
" mon life we here see employed persons supe- 
" rior in habits and education to the same class 
" in England f 9 and further (page 7^.)> tne 
" inhabitants are friendly and homely, not to 
" say coarse, but well-informed \ surprisingly 
" more so' than the English peasantry ;" and 
that, during his journey from Norfolk to the 
heart of the Allegany mountains, " he had not 
" lost sight for a moment of the manners of 
" polished life." (Page 40.) These are certainly 
captivating descriptions, and such as I had anti- 
cipated, before I left England, to be the charac- 
ter of the Americans. Some explanation, how- 
ever, I conceive to be necessary : the difference 
between American character and society and 
those of England is so great, that I almost 
despair of conveying to your minds a faithful 
impression on the subject. The agricultural 
labourer here is certainly better educated than 
one of the same class in England ; he is not 
born nor does he continue to vegetate on the 

14 



898 MR. BIRKBECK's * NOTES." 

spot which gave birth to his father and grand- 
father ; he not only frequently changes his 
station, but also his occupation ; this necessarily 
communicates a range of ideas more extensive 
than that possessed by the English labourer; 
but when the whole character is looked at, and 
not the mere freedom from rusticity of man- 
ners, and an extension of geographical know- 
ledge, a different conclusion would, perhaps, 
present itself; and I much doubt, could I now 
converse with Mr. Birkbeck, with his present 
improved knowledge of the American people, 
whether he would at this moment award to them 
the meed of superiority of character, more espe- 
cially in connection with their " habits/' — and 
with regard to the " manners of polished life," 
and their being carried " even to the heart of the 
" Allegany mountains" — I am surprised at the 
assertion ; but wishing to speak with proper de- 
ference of Mr. Birkbeck, and in looking back to 
what I myself saw of the inhabitants of those 
mountains, I really cannot see how we can talk 
of the " manners of polished life" in a track of 
country which presents an absence of all regard to 
manners,«together with an absolute indifference to 
every person, and a cold disregard of all objects 
except as they may promote the merely mercen- 
ary and selfish pursuits of each individual. In- 
deed, without calling upon you to trust to my im- 
pressions, I can scarcely see how the existence of 



MANNERS, KNOWLEDGE. 899 

these "manners of polished life" is reconcileable 
with what Mr. Birkbeck himself acknowledges, 
— and that unwillingly too ; but that feeling by 
no means weakens the force of his testimony on 
the subject; he says then, "that he has seen a 
" deformity so general, that he cannot help esteem- 
" ing it national," which is, " that cleanliness in 
** houses, and too often in person, is neglected 
" to a degree which is very revolting to an Eng- 
" lishman." In comparing the two countries, and 
previous to awarding the palm of excellence in 
•morals and manners to the inhabitants of the 
New World, let us remember also the strong 
but too well founded assertion of Mr. Birkbeck 
(page 105.), that " intellectual culture has not 
*f yet made much progress among the generality 
" of either sex ;" and more than this, and worse 
than this, that " All America is now suffering 
" in morals through the baleful influence of negro 
-" slavery, partially tolerated, corrupting justice 
" at the very source" (page 25.) ; and if, turn- 
ing from general representations, we look to the 
more newly settled part of the country, we shall 
find Mr. B. declaring that " an unsettled coun- 
" try, lying contiguous to one that is settled/' 
(which must be more or less the case with most 
parts of the western country, and in an especial 
degree with Illinois,) " is always the place of 
" retreat for rude and even abandoned charac- 
" ters, who find the regulations of society in- 
« tolerable." (Page 109.) 



400 MR. BIRKBECK 5 S " NOTES. 55 

If it be therefore from Mr. Birkbeck 5 s work 
that you would form your estimate of this coun- 
try, you ought to do so, not by individual parts, 
but by a candid consideration of the whole ; and 
should inconsistencies appear, to which, from 
various causes, any writer on a new country may 
be exposed, then of course you will take into 
your consideration all the circumstances of the 
case, and form your judgment accordingly. The 
fact, with regard to the state of knowledge in 
this country, to me appears to be, that men are, 
in point of information, almost upon a dead 
level ; that gradation of intellect which exists in 
England being here unknown ; so that, in con- 
ceding the point of greater intelligence to the 
American labourer, it by no means implies a ge- 
neral superiority. Let us go a little higher in the 
scale of society than our " hewers of wood and 
" drawers of water ;" suppose, for an illustration, 
we take the English country gentleman in the 
person of Mr. Birkbeck, and compare him with 
the American land-owner, then indeed the con- 
trast becomes striking. His agricultural pursuits 
will doubtless be conducted with vigour and ac- 
tivity, and with that application of scientific 
knowledge to practical pursuits, so common in 
the country he has quitted; while literature, 
experimental philosophy, or other departments 
of mental culture, will occupy his leisure hours. 
On the other hand, to use his own language, 



NATIONAL ANTIPATHIES. 401 

M they cultivate indolence as a privilege, exist 
*' in yawning indifference, surrounded with nui- 
" sances and petty wants, the first to be're- 
" moved and the latter supplied with a tenth of 
" the time loitered away in their innumerable 
" idle days." (Page 143.) 

The American character is, in one passage, 
(p. 74.) represented to us as arrived at so high 
a state of perfection, that even national antipa- 
thies are annihilated. " National antipathies are 
" the result of bad political institutions, and 
" not of human nature. Here, whatever their 
" original, whether English, Scotch, Irish, 
" German, French, all are Americans ; and 
".of 'all the unfavourable imputations on the 
" American character, jealousy of strangers 
" is surely the most absurd and groundless. 
" The Americans are sufficiently alive to their 
" own interest, but they wish well to strangers, 
" and are not always satisfied with wishing, 
" if they can promote their interest by active 



" services." 



My judgment faltered upon the first perusal 
of this passage; — it so entirely contradicts every 
conclusion which I had come to upon the subject, 
that it caused me to hesitate as to the correct- 
ness of my own impressions: but surely Mr. 
Birkbeck here claims for the Americans a per- 
fection, which is not only contrary to what they 
practise, but perhaps is superior to human nature 

d u 



402 MR. BIRKBECK's " NOTES." 

itself, or, at any rate, to that class of earthly 
beings with whom, in this age, we must be con- 
tent to associate. That national antipathies, in- 
deed, are weakened in infant colonies, similar to 
that in which Mr. Birkbeck himself is now en- 
gaged, is, no doubt, as consistent with fact as it 
is with the laws of our being ; for in such cases 
each individual is so dependent upon his neigh- 
bour, that self-interest breaks down minor feel- 
ings : but from what I have seen of this country, 
I have no hesitation in saying, that any English- 
man who had candidly surveyed it as a wfiole, 
and observed the feelings of its inhabitants, par- 
ticularly in the old settled parts, and where the 
population is dense, would declare that national 
antipathies exist here to an extent exceeding 
any thing which he had ever seen, or could have 
conceived, when in England. I have already 
stated many facts which will tend to support this 
assertion. Let me now observe, that the State 
of Pennsylvania presents a further illustration 
of this subject. Between the Americans of 
Irish and of German extraction, there exists the 
most deadly animosity, " even unto the third 
" and fourth generation." In the mind of a 
German American, the term u Irishman" is 
one of the most foul reproaches with which 
his range of ideas supplies him. Throughout 
America, (the parts at least which are populated,) 
Irishmen are despised, and Englishmen are 



WAGES, &C, AT PITTSBURGH. 403 

viewed with cgo! malignant jealousy and hatred. 
Instead, indeed, of Americans " wishing well to 
" strangers and promoting their interest % active 
" services," they appear to me to possess in a large 
degree, and from similar motives too, the feelings 
which Mr, Birkbeck ascribes to some classes of 
the back woods' men — " a dislike to and jea- 
** lousy of all strangers," Mr. B. in this case, I 
presume, judges from his own individual expe- 
rience ; but it should be remembered that he 
is himself a man of property \ that such persons 
generally meet with a liberal reception — no- 
where more so than in America f and also, that 
as his residence has been in the heart of a 
wilderness, he may be expected to know but 
little of the manners, feelings, or state of so- 
ciety of the whole United States, the greater 
portion of the most populous parts of which he 
has not even visited. There are some minor 
points that it may be well just to glance at. 
Mr. B. says, (p. 46.) " The journeymen of 
" Pittsburgh, in various branches — shoemakers, 
" taylors, &c. earn two dollars a day," (54s. per 
week,) and that those among them who are im- 
provident, do not expend their money " in ab- 
" solute intemperance and profligacy ; they in 
" general waste their surplus earnings in ex- 
" cursions or entertainments." — I have only 
to remark on this, that in October 1317, when 
1 was at the place in question, the earnings 

D D % 



404 MR. birkbeck's "notes," 

per week were, according to the statements 
given me by the mechanics themselves, — taylors, 
31s. 6d. to 45s. ; shoemakers, Sis. 6d. to 36s. ; 
and all the mechanics with whom I conversed 
complained of the difficulty which they expe- 
rienced in getting paid for their labour, much 
of what they did receive being given them 
in orders upon shops for necessaries and cloth- 
ing; the extra price charged by the store- 
keeper, under these circumstances, causing, in 
their judgment, a clear loss to them of three- 
quarters of a dollar per week. As to the pur- 
suits of this class of men, in Pittsburgh par- 
ticularly, it will, I believe, be found upon 
enquiry, that their " surplus earnings" are ex- 
pended in " absolute intemperance and pro- 
" fligacy." 

It is perhaps from a passage like the follow- 
ing that you may have been induced to form 
some conclusions on the state of this country j — 
" Vessels, 5 ' says Mr. B., (page 48.) "of all 
" sorts and sizes, from 500 tons downwards, 
" continually passing, and steam-boats crowded 
" with passengers (on James River); the 
" same on the Potowmac ; and in the winter, 
" when the navigation is interrupted by frost, 
"stages twelve or fourteen in file are seen 
" posting along to supply the want of that 
" luxurious accommodation." — This descrip- 
tion, I fear, would give you too flattering an 



TAXATION. 405 

idea of the state of things here. The com- 
merce of the Potowmac will be seen, by a re- 
ference to American imports and exports, to 
be extremely limited. At George-town, there 
may be an average, at any one time, of ten 
sloops ; at Alexandria, an average of twelve 
square-rigged vessels, and perhaps 20 sloops. 
As to " stages travelling twelve or fourteen 
in file," I have frequented the best roads when 
steam-boat navigation has been interrupted by 
ice, and have never seen a number exceeding 
four, and not commonly more than one stage, 
during a route of several days. 

Upon the principles of taxation, this govern- 
ment appear to be considered by Mr. Birkbeck 
as complete novices; so new (page 7^.) is 
" the government of this country in the art and 
" mystery qfjlnance, that the revenue derived 
" from all this wealth hardly exceeds 40s. ster- 
" ling per square mile." 

A reference to the articles taxed during the 
late war will be, perhaps, the best mode of as- 
certaining in this particular the talents of the 
American government. In the session of congress 
in 1813, duties were laid on stills ; on brandies ; 
on carriages of every description ; licences for 
retailing all goods of foreign manufacture ; the 
same for selling spirits; the same on auction 
sales; on sugar ; and on paper. In 1814, further 
duties were laid on these several articles, and 

D D 3 



<0(j Mil. birkbkck's " notes 



32 



also on various goods manufactured within the 
United States; among which were household 
furniture, leather, tobacco, beer, shoes, boots, 
saddles, bridles, cards, umbrellas, paper, caps, 
hats, candles, and iron ware ; and to illustrate 
the subject of taxation, I subjoin a list of stamps 
as sold in the city of Philadelphia. 

" Stamps for Sale hy John Bioren, Printer and 
Bookseller, No. 88, Chesnut Street 

" Internal Duties, payable.by law, after December 31st, 
1813. 

" On Carriages. 

Dolls. Cts. 
" Upon every coach, the yearly sum of - 20 00 

Upon every chariot and post- chaise - - XI 00 
Upon every phaeton and every coachee, having pan- 

nel work in the upper division - - 10 00 

Upon every other four wheel carriage hanging on 

steel or iron springs - - 7 00 

Upon every four wheel carriage hanging upon wooden 

springs, and every two wheel carriage hanging on 

steel or iron springs - - - 4? 00 

Upon every other four or two wheel carriage - 2 00 

" On licences to distillers of spirituous liquors. 
" For a still or stills employed in distilling spirits from do- 
mestic materials, for each gallon including the head 
thereof; 
For 2 weeks (per gallon) - - 9 

For 1 month ----- 18 

For 2 months - v - - - 32 

For 3 months - 42 

For 4? months - . ' - - 52 

For 6 months - - - 70 

For 1 year - - * - 1 08 



STAMPS. 407 

Dolls. Cts. 
" hor stills employed in distilling from foreign materials 
For 1 month (per gallon) - - -25 

For 3 months - . - . 60 

For 6 months - - - - 1 05 

For 1 year - - - - 1 35 

" On sales by auction, 

a On goods, wares, and merchandize, for every 100 

dollars ; - - - - - \ qq 

On ships or vessels, for every 100 dollars - 25 

" On refined sugar, 
" On every pound - ' - - 4 

" On licences to retailers of wine, spirituous liquors, and 
foreign merchandize, 

u On retailers of merchandize, including wines and 

spirits - - - - 25 00 

On wines alone - - - - 20 00 

On spirits alone - - - 20 00 

On domestic spirits alone - - - 15 00 

On merchandize other than wines and spirits - 15 00 

" Where the population is not more than 100 families to a 
square mile. 

*f. On retailers of merchandize, including wines and 

spirits - - - 15 00 

, On wines and spirits - - 15 00 

On spirits alone - - - - 12 00 

On domestic spirits - - - 10 00 

On merchandize other than wines and spirits - 10 00 

'" On notes of banks, bankers, notes, bonds, fyc. discounted by 
banks, fyc. and on bills of exchange. 

" On any promissory note or notes, payable either to bearer 
or order, issued by any of the banks or companies, who 
issue and discount notes, bonds or obligations, either in- 
corporated or not incorporated, which now are, or here- 
D D 4 



408 MR. BIRKBEC.k's " NOTES. 5 ' 

Dolls. Cffe 
after may be established in the United States, of by any 
banker or ^bankers, according to the following scale : 
viz. 



' if not exceedin 


g 1 dollar 


. 


- 


1 


If above 1 and 


riot 


exceeding 


2 


- 


2 


2 


-. 


- 


3 


- 


3 


3 


- 


- 


5 


- 


5 


5 


- 


- 


10 


- 


10 


10 


- 


. * 


. 20 


- 


20 


20 


- 


- 


50 


- 


50 


50 


- 


* 


100 


- 


1 00 


100 


- 


- 


500 


- 


5 00 


500 


- 


- 


1000 


- 


10 00 


1000 


- 


<*; 


- 


- - 


50 00 



<4 On any bond, obligation, or promissory note or notes, not 
issued by any bank, companies, or bankers aforesaid, 
discounted by any such bank, companies or banker, and 
on any foreign or inland bill or bills of exchange above 
fifty dollars, and having one or more indorsers, accord- 
ing to the following scale ; viz. 

" If not exceeding 100 dollars - - 5 

If above 100 and not exceeding 200 - 10 

200 - - 500-25 

500 - - 1000 - 50 

1000 - - 1500 - 75 

1500 . - - 2000 - 1 CO 

2000 - - 3000 - 1 50 

3000 - - 4000 - 2 00 

4000 '.- - 5000 - 2 50 

5000 - - 7000 - 3 50 

7000 - - 8000 - 4 00 

8000 - - 5 00 

«* The secretary of the treasury may agree to an annual 
Composition with any bank, in lieu of stamp duty, or one and 
a half per centum, on the amount of the annual dividend made 
by such bank." 



Emigration. — success, 40 ( J 

On the grand subject — that of emigration „ 
notwithstanding all the captivating circum* 
stances stated as attendant upon it, a few facts 
are admitted by Mr. B. himself which require 
your most deliberate and serious consideration. 
— First, then, that gentleman informs us, that 
" every service performed by one man for 
" another must be purchased at a high rate, 
" ?nicch higher than in England ; therefore, as 
" long as the English emigrant is obliged to 
" purchase more than he sells of this service, or 
" labour, he is worse off than at home.' 9 (Page 
48.) Second, " After you have used yourself 
" to repose on your own pallets, either on the 
" floor of a cabin, or under the canopy of the 
" woods, with an umbrella over your head and 
" a noble fire at your feet, you will then escape 
" the only serious nuisance of American tra- 
" veiling, viz. hot rooms and swarming beds." 
(P. 126.) Third, " A traveller should always 
" carry flint, steel, and a large knife, or toma- 
« hawk, &c. &c." (Page 108.) 

The instances of great success, of which 
Mr. Birkbeck states several, are no doubt cor- 
rect : but he certainly might have enlarged the 
view he has taken ; and perhaps rendered it 
more correct by the enumeration of many 
failures. At least, I am myself in possession 
of several cases, on both sides of this ques- 
tion \ but thinking the criterion to be alto- 



410 • MR. BIRKBECK's ft NOTES." 

gether an uncertain one, I wave their enu- 
meration. Such individual instances exist in 
every nation, and in every state of society j 
and are very frequently caused, not by pe- 
culiarity of country, but of individual cha- 
racter, I notice this, because I know that a 
reader, whose situation is similar to that in 
w r hich the persons described were originally 
placed, might naturally be disposed to imagine, 
that if he were in America, he would be 
equally successful ; when probably, he may be 
altogether unfitted for such circumstances. A 
writer, adverse to this country, could find no 
difficulty in selecting instances of failure. In- 
deed, Mr. B. has himself, upon another subject, 
said, that " hundreds of these speculations," 
(making settlements,) " have failed jtf so that 
if the criterion be a correct one, the argument 
might be turned against himself, for these in- 
stances of failure would prove that success is 
not attainable in the United States. A sub- 
ject, however, of this magnitude, must be 
viewed in the general and not in the detail. A 
man that can " turn his hand to any thing," be 
active, industrious, sober, economical, and set 
privations at defiance, will I believe be more 
successful in America than in any other country 
on the globe. 



POLITICAL INSTITUTIONS. 411 

CAUSES OF LEAVING ENGLAND. 

The soundness of .Mr. Birkbeck's political 
reasons for emigrating must be left for every 
man to judge of in his own mind. By us they 
will be viewed favourably, because they are pre- 
cisely our own. His moral reasons require some 
remark : his objects he states to be, " to pro- 
" cure for his children a career of enterprise 
" and wholesome family connexions, in a society 
" whose institutions are favourable to virtue.' 5 
(Page 8.) 

" That institutions favourable to virtue shall 
" produce effects correspondent to their cha- 
" racter upon the society blessed with them, is 
" a conclusion so natural, that we should be in- 
" clined to suspect an error in the estimate of the 
" institutions themselves, if we found a vicious 
" people under a good government." (Page 9.) 

These are conclusions, I conceive, exactly 
such as a man versed in theoretic speculations 
upon the nature of society would arrive at, when 
contemplating a country like this, previous to 
his leaving Great Britain. But I am sorry to 
say, that a very brief residence in America will 
most effectually dispel the charm ; and I am 
much concerned, that Mr. Birkbeck, when writ- 
ing his book in this country, should have, I 
think, so unnecessarily and gratuitously placed 
in the hands of those, who always oppose correct 
principles, a weapon with which, from his own 



4?l c 2 MR. BIRKBECK^S " NOTES." 

admissions, they can so effectually cut down him- 
self, and, what is of infinitely more importance, 
the principles which he advocates. When he 
asserts that the constitution of the American 
government is good, he takes a position so 
strong, that he cannot by any combination of 
talents be dislodged from it; but when he ex- 
tends his ground by concluding " that we should 
" be inclined to suspect an error in the estimation 
" of the institutions themselves, if 'we find a vicious 
" people under a good government," his line is 
most effectually weakened. The American 
people " are like their fellow men, have," as he 
himself expresses it, " their irregular and rude 
" passions; their gross propensities, and their 
" follies ; so that after all this is the real world, 
" and no poetical Arcadia." (Page 131.) 

Could we begin society anew — transported 
from our present abodes, could we be placed 
in another Eden, possessing there the aid of 
all the knowledge and virtue, and freed from 
all the error and vice of the present day, 
then we should have rational grounds to an- 
ticipate, that, under a good government, there 
would necessarily be found a virtuous people. 
But as this is not the case, we must, in forming 
our judgment on such a subject, look at man 
as he is, and speculate on society as we find 
it ; and I think we shall discover, that the ma- 
terials which go to the formation of individual 



AMERICAN REVIEW. 418 

and of national character, spring up from a 
thousand other sources besides that afforded by 
political institutions. This view of the subject 
may assist us in solving an otherwise difficult 
question, namely, why it is that the people of 
England are so much in advance of their govern- 
ment ; and why, on the other hand, the people of 
America remain so very far behind the principles 
upon which their political system is founded. 

I have met with but one American Review of 
Mr. BirkbecK's work ; it is contained in No. 207- 
of " The Port Folio," a respectable and long 
established literary publication, edited by Mr. 
Hall, of Philadelphia. As this article contains a 
fair specimen of American writing, and also ad- 
mits some awkward political facts, which under 
other circumstances might perhaps have been 
concealed, I copy it for your information : — 

" Mr. Birkbeck landed at Norfolk, with which town he 
" is not much pleased. A Virginian tavern he describes 
" as resembling ' a French one with its table d'hote, 
'< though not in the excellence of the cookery ; but/ he 
a adds, that it ' somewhat exceeds it in filth, as it does an 
" English one in charges.* The gentlemen, he thinks, 
'* are republican in politics, but irascible, and often lax in 
" morals. On his approach to Richmond, he found himself 
" at once in the society of persons * who appeared to be as 
" polite, well dressed, «and well instructed, as if they had 
" been repairing to the capital of Great Britain,' — whereat, 
" no doubt, he marvelled mightily. In the city he finds a 
" population of 13,000 inhabitants, of which nearly one half 
" is stated to be, we hop erroneously, negroes. Provisions 



4fl4* AMERICAN REVIEW OF 

u are scarce, dear and bad, in that city. The author was 
ce horrified, he says, and well he might be, at the sale of 
«' negroes, in open market. This is a foul blot in an escut- 
*« cheon which is blazoned with high honour, with intelli- 
*" gence, beauty, and taste. The good folks of Richmond, 
u he says, are making * & grand stir about a monument to 
" the memory of Gen. Washington ; and he takes occa- 
«' sion to point out ' the mutilated bust of La Fayette in 
ci their capitol, which now stands an object of horror, of 
" derision/ — as worthy of attention. The project of a 
" monument was settled long ago, as may be seen by refer- 
u ence to the debates in our congress ( particularly in the 
" senate) soon after the accession of Mr. Jefferson. Our 
" traveller bears testimony to the ' urbanity and real polite- 
" ness' of the citizens of Richmond; and is pleased to 
" declare, that he saw ' as good husbandry as would be 
'* expected in some well-managed districts of Great Britain.' 
" We were about to make some remarks upon our author's 
" practice of making comparisons, but an intimation at the 
," end of the volume, which just presents itself, renders all 
" observation unnecessary. We find that the volume is 
" intended to contain 'just the particulars' which the author 
" wished to communicate to his friends, and therefore it may 
*' not be improper to take England as the standard of 
" excellence, in order to disabuse honest John Bull of the 
" impositions which have been palmed upon his voracious 
u credulity. When we find such gross ignorance respecting 
" this country, as was displayed in debate by one of the 
l( hereditary counsellors of the crown (Lord Stanhope — vid. 
" Port Folio, 1816, page 341.) — it seems to be absolutely 
" necessary to permit writers to say at once, that what they 
i( wish to describe is ■ exactly like what we have here in 
" Lunnun.' it may then be believed that we are white, 
" can speak the English tongue, and do not carry our heads 
(( under our shoulders : and when Lord Stanhope, or any 
" other expounder of the laws, undertakes to state, that an 
" action against a clergyman, on a bond, cannot be enter- 
11 tained in Connecticut, he must be informed, that in matters 
li of this sort, the courts of Connecticut and Westminster 

14 



MR. birkbeck's " notes/' 4*15 

Hall are governed by the same principles. If the earl 
has inferred the fact from the rule de non apparentibus, it 
is very probable that a New England docket would bear 
him out ; at least we should be certain of finding, for one 
of our clergymen in this predicament, at least a hundred 
in England scampering at a fox-chase, 
'< But to return to Mr. Birkbeck. In travelling and 
travelling along, he came to some paths, 6 which, for the 
most part, were only distinguishable from the rugged 
waste by a slight trace, like that of a new-formed road, 
or, in some instances, by rows of Lombardy poplars/ 
Here he looked up, and he saw a splendid palace ; but he 
' could liken it to nothing in America, except the painted 
face and gaudy head-dress of a half-naked Indian.' The 
reader will be mortified to learn, that these paths are the 
< intended streets radiating from the capitol,' and the 
palace, the very capitol of the far-famed City of Washing- 
ton. Year after year, the most excellent schemes for 
improving our moral and political situation are submitted 
to congress, and the veterans of the revolution are borne 
on « trembling limbs' to the seat of government, to implore 
for a settlement of their accounts ; but neither our ancestors, 
nor those who are to follow us, can be heard, until this 
morass shall be drained, and the * rugged waste' be filled 
with houses. If Great Britain is cursed with a national 
debt, we have our national city, from which it is to be 
feared, that nothing short of Aladdin's Lamp will ever 
relieve us. ' What is the matter ?' said a gentleman at 
the head of his table, addressing a guest who arose almost 
immediately after the removal of the last dish, at an enter- 
tainment given in this splendid city — ' I beg you to 
excuse me — I have promised to take tea with your 
neighbour*' — * Well, well, — there's time enough for 
that — pray sit down. — It is only six o'clock/ « True, 
my good sir,' said the guest — < but you forget that I have 
seren miles to ride, and your roads are very deep !' If 
the money which has been exchanged for the costly 
columns that have recently arrived from Italy, had been 
expended in the construction of ' good roads, substantial 



4 1 6 AMERICAN REVIEW OF 

€< bridges,' and a few lamps, our traveller would have found 
?' less reason for ridicule and complaint. 

" Mr. Birkbeck commences his journal in April, 1817* 
V. 'jive hundred miles east of Cape Henry.' He informs us 
" that he has quitted England for the purpose of becoming 
(t a citizen of the United States. Of his situation as an 
" English farmer, he draws a picture which appears to him 
<c ver y gloomy. He had no voice in the appointment of the 
<( legislature — he had no concern in public affairs — he 
(t could not appear at county meetings, &c. It is impossible 
" to reconcile the reports concerning the state of Great 
" Britain, which are made by travellers and emigrants. 
" Within a few days past, we were assured, by an intelligent 
" gentleman, who had recently visited Europe, most cer- 
ic tainly with no favourable prepossessions in favour of 
tc England, that he had not seen so much contentment and 
** cheerfulness in any other country. We hope Mr. Birlc- 
" beck has too much good sense to rate his share of felicity by 
i( the considerations which he mentions. If he does, his new 
" settlements will make but slow progress. We understand 
" the trade of politics here quite as well as they do in foreign 
" parts ; and it is just as difficult for modest merit to rise 
" from obscurity, when opposed by the intrigues of a caucus, 
t( or the glare of wealth. We have no rotten boroughs to 
"sell; but when a voter is to be seduced or supplanted, we 
il have powerful engines in the shape of an enviable appoint- 
u merit abroad, or a profitable contract at home. Man is the 
f same in all countries. These inestimable privileges, for 
u which our author sighed in vain, may easily be purchased 
(f in any of our States, unless we except Massachusetts, 
** where a vote may sell high, because an office there makes 
«« a man honourable during life " * 

* In confirmation of this assertion of the reviewers, I would 
remark that Honourable, and other titles, are much sought 
after in America. The following extract from the " Boston 
Sentinel," of August 27th, will illustrate this idea : — 

" Dinner to Mr. Adams. • — Yesterday a public dinner was 
a given to the Hon. John Q. Adams, in the Exchange 



MR. BIRKBECK'S " NOTES." 417 

You will perhaps censure me for occupying 
your attention with selections from Mr. Birk- 
beck's publication, when you are in possession 
of the original : my reasons for so doing, are 
derived from a fear, and indeed, from what you 
say, a belief that, because Mr. B. sets at de- 
fiance every difficulty, treating the most serious 
privations as a mere jest, you might possibly feel 
disposed to join in the opinion. The fact is, that 
by his style and manner he has so captivated 
many of his readers (Americans excepted), that 
they begin to feel the conveniences and establish- 
ments of civilized life a source of misery, instead 
of an advantage. There is, moreover, some- 
thing very imposing in the circumstance, that a 
man of his talents and property should be per- 
fectly satisfied with the change, notwithstanding 
all its attendant privations. This certainly has 
its weight, but having once taken the step he 
has done, I would merely suggest (without pre- 
tending to enter very deeply into the recesses 
of the human mind) a few considerations, why 

" Coffee-House, by his fellow-citizens of Boston. The Hon. 

" Wra. Gray presided, assisted by the Hon. Harrison Gray 

< ( Otis, George Blake, Esq. and the Hon. Jonathan Mason, 

" vice-presidents. Of the guests were, the Hon. Mr. Adams, 

<( late president of the United States, his Excellency Go- 

" vernor Brooks, his Honor Lt.- Gov. Phillips, Chief Justice 

" Parker, Judge Story, President Kirkland, Gen. Dearborn, 

t( Com. Hull, Gen. Miller, several of the reverend clergy, 

" and many public officers, and strangers of eminence/' 

E E 



418 EMIGRATION. 

any man, under his circumstances, would 
naturally look with a very lenient eye upon all 
defects, and where even a mole-hill in the 
way of excellence existed, feel inclined to 
magnify it into a mountain. In leaving Eng- 
land he evidently turned his back upon it for 
ever. He was disgusted with the government, 
and hardly any extent of disappointment would 
probably induce him to place himself in the 
humiliating situation of returning. He has 
gone into the wilderness — purchased a large 
quantity of land — has made his final election ■**■ 
has reasonable hopes of the speculation proving 
profitable — would not be disappointed with 
having neighbours natives of his own coun- 
try, and similar to himself in property and in 
information — must desire that the value of 
his lands should advance as largely and as 
rapidly as possible ; which can only be ef- 
fected by emigration being directed to that 
point, and he having no claim to the character 
of a superhuman being, would not feel his sense 
of importance lessened, by being the founder of 
a large English colony. Taking these con- 
siderations into our calculation, and reflecting 
upon their necessary effect on the mind of any 
man so circumstanced, we may be supplied 
with an explanation of much that is contained in 
the " Notes on a Journey to Illinois." 

Upon the subject of our emigration, I con- 



EMIGRATION. 419 

fess I cannot make up my mind ; and that, 
among other reasons, causes me to desire to 
return to England as expeditiously as possible, 
that I may personally consult with you all. 
But with regard to the " very favourable " ef- 
fect of Mr. Birkbeck's book, if you will carefully 
go through it again, detaching his statements 
from his individual feelings, you will, I think, 
find that if my " Reports " have reached you, 
they will receive no ordinary support from 
Mr. Birkbeck's admissions. 

As to America generally — it possesses some 
most important advantages, among which are 
to be enumerated, an extensive and, in parts, 
a very fertile country — a population not filled 
up — and, above all, a reasonable and a cheap 
government. These give to the poor man a 
recompense for his labour proportionate to his 
deserts : they also open numerous sources for 
the valuable employment of capital ; and they 
give a solid satisfaction, as to the future, in the 
mind of a man of family or of property, which 
it is impossible to derive from a contemplation 
of the present condition, and the present policy 
of any of the old governments. 

In your commission to Mr. Flower for the 
purchase of Illinois land, you have, I doubt 
not, exercised all the caution which such an im- 
portant procedure requires ; for myself, I feel 
anxious for the full discussion t of the subject ; 
e e 2 



420 ORIGINAL IMPRESSIONS. 

but I shall defer stating my ideas further, until 
I have the pleasure of doing so in person. In 
conclusion, let me express my anxious hopes 
that you are all in perfect health ; and as this 
Report will close my communications to you 
upon the subject of America, I assure you, it is 
the warmest wish of my heart, that my conduct 
and exertions, during the course of this short 
but important mission, may have deserved and 
may receive your full approval. Should my 
statements have received credit, and should they 
have made a similar impression upon your minds 
which the reality has produced upon my own, 
you must have found, like myself, frequent 
cause of surprise and astonishment. I perfectly 
remember, indeed, the impressions with which 
I first visited America — impressions which you 
all possessed in common with myself. America, 
we believed to be (and I am sure I wished to 
find it so) the abode of freedom and toleration, 
in practice no less than in theory. We fondly 
regarded it indeed, as, 

" That land where ' self-government'' calls forth the mind, 

" And the rights and the virtues of man are combined ; 

' ' Where the thought, unrestrained, y mid truth's regions mayjly; 

" Uncaged from the earth, may aspire to the sky ; 

*? What the bosom conceives , that the tongue may express ; 

" Not bounded by bigots, the power to bless ; 

" That land where Religions sweet voice may arise, 

a Where with Liberty^ Virtue may walk 'tieath the skies ; 



SANGUINE EXPECTATIONS. 421 

" Where, safe from each danger, secure from each storm, 
" Lovely Freedom may nurse youthful Piety 's form ; 
*' Where man, feeling his value, the impulse once given, 
*' May dare to deserve the rich blessings of heaven!" 

How far the country may have answered 
these our sanguine expectations — at least, how 
far I have believed them answered, I must leave 
each of you to conclude from the facts I have 
forwarded, and the general tenor of my observ- 
ations upon them. 



ee3 



EIGHTH REPORT. 



Illinois Land, — Commission to Mr. Floxver. — Mr. Biri- 
beck's Mode of extolling Illinois. — Climate of Eastern 
Cities. — Ohio Land. — Profits on Capital. — Society in 
the Western Country. — Emigration. — Letter from Cincin- 
nati. — Spanish Patriots. — What Classes of Emigrants 
may succeed and tuhat not. — Plan of Mr. Birhbeck's Set" 
tlement. 

Plaistow Essex, England, Sept. 1st. 1818. 

Agreeing with the suggestion of our friend 

L , that my Reports require some general 

observations, as a sort of wind-up on the sub- 
ject of America, I sit down for the purpose of 
endeavouring to give such accordingly ; which, 
when effected, may remove the necessity of my 
frequently communicating with our more dis- 
tant friends in Leicestershire and Yorkshire. I 
propose also, at the same time, to adopt the 

hint of Mr. A , relative to our supposed 

property in the Illinois ; and shall further give 
my opinion of Mr. Birkbeck's " Letters " from 
that State. 

In regard to the first, we should, I think, be 
particular in correcting an idea which many 
entertain, that we are actual land-owners in the 
Illinois y when the fact of the case is, that 
Mr. George Flower, (the associate of Mr. Birk- 



MR. BiRKBECK*S " LETTERS." 423 

beck,) who sailed in the " Anne Maria** from 
Liverpool some weeks before my arrival in Eng- 
land, was commissioned to purchase for us nine 
thousand acres, adjoining his and Mr. Birkbeck's 
settlement ; and as we have since received but 
one letter from him, and that merely announ- 
cing his arrival in New York,* after a fine passage 
of thirty days ; we are not yet, at least to our 
knowledge, American land-proprietors. 

With respect to Mr. Birkbeck's " Letters from 
" Illinois," several of our London friends (who 
had seen some of them in manuscript long before 
their publication) know my opinion ; but to those 
in the country, who had not even heard of them, 
until their appearance before the public, I would 
offer a few brief remarks ; though to make such 
must necessarily be extremely difficult, as the 
work consists of copies of private correspon- 
dence, in which the details necessary for the con- 
sideration of a proposed emigrant not being re- 
quired, are therefore but very partially given. 
I shall, however, be relieved from a lengthened 
consideration of them, as much of what 1 have 
said in my communication from New York, con- 
cerning the " Notes," will be strictly applicable 

* Several gentlemen having addressed me upon the sub- 
ject of Mr. Flower's commission to purchase the land speci- 
fied, I take the opportunity afforded by the present edition, 
of stating, that we have received no communication whatever 
from him since the one announcing his arrival at Norfolk. 

Feb, 18, 1819. 
E E 4- 



421 MR. birkbeck's " letters/ 5 

to the " Letters j" the latter giving but little 
additional information. One thing I would ob- 
serve, and which is a subject of regret to those 
who wish well to Mr. Birkbeck's reputation, that 
the charge would seem but too well founded 
that his " Letters are less impartial, less philo- 
" sophic, and less disinterested than his Notes." 
In his exclusive recommendation of the Illinois, 
there would seem almost a fixed determination to 
be self satisfied ; indeed he admits, " that look - 
" ing at it now with a favourable eye, as I wish 
" to do, I see new advantages continually rising 
" before me." (P. 79.) And it must be lamented 
by Mr. Birkbeck's friends, that his eagerness to 
advance his own settlement is rather too ap- 
parent ; for not only Great Britain, but also 
every other part of America must be pressed 
into the service of extolling Illinois. We are 
told, in regard to England, that " the soil is worn 
" out ;" and in relation to old America, that the 
climate of the eastern cities presents "melting op- 
" pressive sultry nights, succeeding broiling days 
" and forbidding rest, which are said to wear out 
" the frames of the languid inhabitants of the 
" eastern cities, but which are unknown here." 
That the climate of the eastern cities is pro- 
bably not so healthy as that of England, I believe; 
but much which causes this difference equally 
exists in the western States. For myself, I 
heard more of " sickness" (the term by which 

2 



PRAISES OF ILLINOIS. 425 

every kind of indisposition is designated) in 
the western than in the eastern States ; and the 
appearance of the people entirely confirms the 
belief that, as yet, old is more healthy than new 
America ; not, I should presume, from a natural 
superiority of climate, but the more extended 
cultivation of the country gives it, of course, an 
actual, although probably only a temporary su- 
periority. 

English emigrants are told in the " Notes," 
that " those who are not screwed up to the full 
" pitch of enterprise, had better remain in Old 
" England than attempt agriculture, or business 
" of any kind, (manual operations excepted,) in 
« the Atlantic States."— What does Mr. Cobbett 
say to this, as from personal knowledge he can re- 
commend the Atlantic States only ? — And in the 
" Letters," that even "land in Ohio cannot 
" be had at less than from 20 to 50 dollars per 
" acre ;" that it is " technically called im- 
" proved," but it is in "fact deteriorated;" 
that it was "impossible to obtain a good position 
" in Ohio, at a price which common prudence 
" could justify, or indeed at any price." To 
fairly consider those statements would require sl 
repetition of the information which I sent you 
from Kentucky and Illinois ; to that, therefore, 
I wish to direct your attention ; and I merely 
insert an advertisement taken from the Philadel- 
phia " Democratic Press," January 1818. 



4^6 MR. BIRKBECK'S " LETTERS." 

« OHIO LANDS. 

" Eleven hundred and ninety acres of land, for sale for Cash, 
" or Real Estate in Philadelphia, situated on the East Fork 
« of Todd's Creek, a branch of the Little Miami, in the 
" county of Clinton, about ten miles from the seat of justice, 
(< Wilmington : about 5 miles from Lebanon, the next county 
i( town ; and about 3 miles from the great mail road to Cin- 
" cinnati. For terms, apply at the office of the Democratic 
6< Press, or of William Lowry, Lebanon, Ohio. 
« Jan. 21 — wfm3t. ,> 

The price asked for this land is seven dollars 
per acre. 

The power of capital is depicted very strongly. 
Mr. B. states, " the fact is, however, that the 
** profits of capital on every thing in this country 
<f are marvellous. In the case of live-stock, the 
" outgoings are so small, that the receipts are 
" nearly all clear." (P. 18.) Looking at this 
paragraph, and several others throughout the 
" Letters' 3 of a similar tendency, I must observe 
that these u marvellous profits' 9 are matters of 
speculation, and, like all such, are liable to 
afford great success, or equally exposed to great 
and ruinous failure : even in Mr. Birkbeck's 
own case, they are, as yet, in anticipation. These 
miraculous schemes belong more to the age of 
Sir Walter Raleigh, than to the sober character 
of the nineteenth century ; but in Mr. Birk- 
beck's letter to his son, he remarks upon " pro- 
" fts" that " housekeeping and other expences 
" being paid, there remains a profit of 22 per 



INDUCEMENTS TO EMIGRATE. 4<TJ 

" cent, on the capital ; an4 yon are improving 
" your own estate." (P. 49.) 

From this, which is a defined statement, you 
may derive some satisfaction in calculating the 
profit and loss of a removal to the western coun- 
try ; and not be induced by general assertion to 
expect to find the territory of Illinois " paved 
" with gold," or to discover there the philo- 
sopher's stone. 

Among other inducements held out to his 
friend to emigrate, Mr, B» represents even the 
society of the wilderness as desirable. He says, 
* In good faith, I think you would have nothing 
" to regret in exchanging such a circle as I 
" fancy yours to be, for any society that would 
" surround you in these wild woods." (P. 26.) 
What this latter society would prove, I might 
pourtray from the information which I have 
myself collected j but 1 shall prefer quoting Mr. 
Birkbeck's own excellent description from other 
parts of his work. 

" Its elements" (those of society) " are rude 
" certainly, and heterogeneous. The first settlers, 
" unprotected and unassisted, amid dangers and 
" difficulties, have been accustomed, from early 
" youth, to rely on their own powers ; and they 
" surrender with reluctance, and only by halves, 
" their right of defence against every aggression, 
" even to the laws which themselves have con* 
« siitutedr (P. 970 



428 MR. BIRKBEClt's " LETTERS." 

These laws, we are told, have been made, 
" anxiously studious of mildness; 5 ' but that 
in practice " they seem inefficient:" for that 
" deeds of savage and even ferocious violence" 
are committed, "too common to be viewed 
" with the abhorrence due to them." (P. 97.) 
This admission of such a difference between the 
theory of law and its practical execution, is of the 
first importance to every man who contemplates 
becoming a member of such a community : and 
this though we are told in the succeeding para- 
graph, that the innate feeling of justice is so 
strong, that " if a man, whom the public voice 
" has proclaimed a thief or a swindler, escapes 
" from justice for the 'want of legal proof of his 

" gUllt, THOUGH THE LAW AND A JURY OF HIS 
" FELLOW-CITIZENS HAVE ACQUITTED HIM, ten 

u to one but he is met with before he can quit the 
** neighbourhood, and, tied up to a sapling, re- 
" ceives a scourging that marks him for the rest 
« of his life! I r (P. 97, 98.) 

This is certainly another most important ad- 
mission ; and although it may be passed off in 
half seriousness — half raillery — yet it is no joke 
to be told that a man, whom ".-the laws and a 
"jury of his fellow-citizens have acquitted," 
should be liable " to be tied up to a sapling, and 
"receive a scourging that may mark him for the 
"rest of Ms life." There are no doubt some 
instances where this barbarous procedure would 



mr. birkbeck's "letters." 429 

be merited ; but how often is the " public 
" voice" mistaken in its " proclamations ?" It 
is also to be presumed, that many of these innate 
lovers of justice were not in court, could not 
have heard the evidence, and yet they exercise, 
at the dictation of their own sovereign will, the 
power of inflicting a punishment more severe 
than would have attended convicted villainy. 
The judges too would seem to partake of this 
" free" order of things. " A notorious offender 
" had escaped from confinement, and, mounted 
" on a capital horse, paraded the town where 
" the judge resided with a brace of pistols, 
" calling at the stores and grog-shops, and de- 
" daring he would shoot any man who should 
" attempt to molest him. The judge hearing 
" of it, loaded a pistol, walked deliberately up 
*• to the man to apprehend him, and on his 
" making a shew of resistance, shot him imme- 
« diately !" (P. 62.) 

Of what benefit, I would ask, can civilization, 
of what advantage can " mild laws, 9 ' or any 
laws be, to a people that have such judges, 
and who set their own legislature at defiance ? 
who disregard the verdict of a jury, and who 
inflict upon an acquitted fellow-citizen " deeds 
" of savage and even ferocious violence?" 
And these form part of that society con- 
cerning which Mr. Birkbeck writes to a friend 
in England, that he would " have nothing to 



430 MR. BIRKBECX's " LETTERS." 

" regret in making the exchange." But Mr* 
Birkbeck is satisfied, and " liberty is no subject 
" of dispute or speculation among us back 
" woods' men — it is the very atmosphere we 
" breathe." " In passing" also " from theory 
" to practice," Mr. B. " has experienced no 
" diminution of his love for freedom :" nor 
have I done so either ; but I certainly have ex- 
perienced a most sensible diminution in my 
love for the possessors of freedom ; and so when 
I consider his language elsewhere, I must con- 
clude has Mr. Birkbeck, when I find him de- 
claring that he wants language to express " the 
" loathing" he feels for personal slavery ; that 

When " PRACTISED BY FREE MEN IT IS MOST 

" detestable ;" that " it is the leprosy of the 
" United States, a foul blotch, which, more or 
" less, contaminates the entire system in public 
" and in private, from the President's chair 

" TO THE CABIN OF THE HUNTER !" (P. 71.) 

Previous to my offering some explanation re- 
lative to the Kentucky resolutions in favour of the 
Spanish patriots, I would remark, that the Ame- 
rican emigration to the western country is cer- 
tainly very great. Mr. Birkbeck says upon this 
subject, that he had " just read a statement of 
" 500 emigrants per week passing through Al- 
" bany westward. This occurred on one road, 
" and that far to the north. If it were really 
" so unwise to migrate westward, out of the 



WESTERN EMIGRATION. 431 

" tens (I was going to say hundreds) of thou- 
" sands who move annually from the eastern 
" States into this western wilderness, we should 
" hear of some returning." (P. 10, 11.) With 
regard to the force of the remark, that so many 
pass on one road, and that Jar to the north, it is 
well to understand, that there are but two roads 
to the western country which are generally fre- 
quented by emigrants ; and indeed but one which 
is travelled by stage waggons. Respecting none 
returning, I insert the following letter from the 
" Eastern Argus ;" not because it conveys my 
ideas, for, in fact, I differ from the writer, but to 
shew that opposite opinions are entertained upon 
the subject of western emigration. 

" EMIGRATION TO THE WEST. 
" The following is an extract of a letter from a gentleman 
* ' who recently left this place in company with two others, 
" for the purpose of establishing themselves in business in the 
" western country. The letter speaks too plainly for itself 
" to stand in need of any comments of ours. We have never 
" had a doubt that a vast number of the emigrants, we be- 
" lieve a very great majority, have been sorely di-appointed 
" in their calculation. Many have returned, and many 
l< more, after spending a considerable part of their property 
" in a long and expensive journey, have found themselves 
" obliged, much against their win, to continue. Some we 
" have known who, after spending all their property in jour- 
" neying over the country to find a suitable place for settles 
" ment, have returned as soon as they could save, with great 
" frugality, enough fronTtheir earnings to pay their expences 
u home. We recommend this letter to those who are about 
41 to seek for mines of wealth beyond the mountains ; but at 



432 MR. BIRKBECK's " LETTERS." 

** all events, before ^embarking their fortune in such an en- 
il terprise, we would urge upon them to see and converse 
" with some judicious person who has had an opportunity 
" of seeing the country and judging from his own observ- 
if ation. 

" Cincinnati, Aug. 13, 1817. 

" Dear Sir, 

" I arrived here the first day of the present month, after 
64 a tedious journey down the river of twelve days, and must 
" confess I am greatly disappointed in my expectations, 
6< I received two letters to this £lace from the brother of 
" Ruggles Whiting, he being at Boston himself. After 
** showing my documents to the gentlemen to whom they 
" were directed, and receiving from them all the civilities 
" they could bestow, and opinions as to business, I am con- 
" vinced that it would be folly in the extreme for me to 
" attempt to do any thing in the grocery line. Business, 
u they say, is duller than it ever was before known. We 
" all, to tell the truth, are disappointed, and are determined 
u not to stop here longer than a week from this. We are 
" at present undetermined what route to take ; there are 
" only two that we have in mind ; one is, to wait here about 
" three weeks and then take passage to New Orleans, for 
« which we can receive fifty dollars a piece, and not much 
<c labour, only to use the oars to keep the boat from striking 
" rocks. These boats are about 25 feet long and 15 wide, 
" and carry from S to 500 barrels salt, flour, &c. : the cur- 
" rent sets them, in good water, from §0 to 100 miles per day. 
" The other route is to tramp from here to Alexandria (Col.) 
14 which is not far from 600 miles. I think we shall adopt 
" the former. 

" I will state some of the disadvantages that present 
" themselves ; the first is, my goods must come from New 
" Orleans, which is 1700 miles from this : I have to pay five 
" cents on the pound for transportation : their usual passage 
" from here to that place is about 30 days ; from that to 
ss this 100 days; and by the time I could get my goods 
*« here, it would cost me all the cash I have for board, which 



SPANISH PATRIOTS. 433 

** is from three to seven dollars per week. Shop-rent is 
" higher here than in Boston. You cannot hire a store here 
" like one in Hayraarket Row [Portland] under 1300 dollars 
" the year. As to health, I am told by a doctor whom I have 
" had to vaccinate me, that there are in this place eighteen of 
" his profession, and all of them getting rich ; and I should 
" think they would— he charged me two dollars for vaccin- 
** ating. 

" Upon the whole I must say, that I wish myself in New 
" England, and probably shall be in about three months. I 
" should advise no friend to emigrate to this place, except 
** he be a farmer, and he ought to come (if at all) at ten 
" years of age, and by the time he is forty, if he is indus- 
'" trious, may do. 

H This probably will be the last you will hear of me until 
" about the 1st of October, when I expect to be in New 
'" Orleans. 

" Respectfully, &c. 

At page 103, Mr. Birkbeck inserts the excel- 
lent Resolutions passed in the State of Kentucky 
in favour of the Spanish Patriots. The inference 
which the reader must naturally draw from 
thence is, that these resolutions are expressive 
of the feelings of Americans generally upon that 
interesting subject. Mr. B. observes, in intro- 
ducing them, that they " shew that the citizens 
" of Kentucky are sensible that to be in the 
" possession and exercise of the rights of self- 
" government is a blessing;" {Kentucky is a 
slave State) — " and that their hearts are enlarged 
" by it, and inflamed, not by jealousy of their 
" neighbours' welfare, but with zeal to promote 
" it." That " these resolutions are indicative 

F F 



4.34 MR. BIRKBECK's " LETTERS.'* 

" of a good spirit, and thus are in accordance 
" with the general feelings as far as I can gather, 
" of the citizens of all the States of the Union" 
Now what are the simple facts of this case ? — 
Mr. Clay, the speaker of the House of Repre- 
sentatives, is a resident of, and member deputed 
from Kentucky ; he is well known to be strain- 
ing every nerve to obtain the next Presidency ; 
he is extremely mortified at Mr. Adams's having 
received an appointment to the office (Secretary 
of State) which is considered that of the " heir 
" apparent ;" he is taking every safe means to 
thwart the proceedings of the general govern- 
ment ; he sees that they are backward in the 
cause of the patriots ; he knows that by being 
its advocate he will not endanger any acquired 
popularity, for the Americans theoretically cannot 
oppose the glorious cause of the Spanish colo- 
nies, and in the probable event of their success 
he will acquire the character of a great statesman. 
He therefore set on foot, in the legislature of that 
State in which he had most influence (Kentucky), 
resolutions in favour of the patriots. When they 
were discussed in the senate of Kentucky, counter 
resolutions were proposed by Mr. Owens, as a 
substitute for those of Mr. Bledsoe ; but upon 
the vote the latter passed. Let us next look at 
the assertion that these resolutions are in accord- 
ance with the general feelings of the " citizens 
" of all the States in the Union/* From what 
sources, I would ask, and I ask it with regret, are 



SPANISH PATRIOTS. 435 

we justified in drawing this inference ? Is it from 
the law recently passed to prevent the shipment 
of warlike stores? is it from the seizure of 
Amelia Island ? is it from the imprisonment and 
barbarous treatment of the British officers at 
Philadelphia, who were there on their route to 
join the patriots (and because they were going to 
join the patriots) ? or is it from the very remark- 
able fact, that, 1 believe, up to the day of my leav- 
ing America, which was the 10th May, (although 
the resolutions are copied from the " Western 
" Citizen" of the 10th February,) not one 
state, county, city, or borough throughout the 
whole Union had followed the example of Ken- 
tucky ! ! ! 

I have been thus free in my strictures upon 
Mr. Birkbeck's " Letters," because I have seen 
the effect which they have produced upon your 
minds, and I believe that effect to be an improper 
one. This has arisen, I apprehend, more from 
the mode in which the information is conveyed 
than from the information itself; for it appears 
to me that throughout the work there are those 
admissions which no colouring ought to prevent 
the mind of a reader from viewing as most 
serious considerations, connected with an Illinois 
settlement. Mr. Birkbeck, in fact* writes with 
such superior talent, throwing at the same time 
such a charm over every thing he describes, 
that it is difficult not to be captivated — and 
influenced, as he has naturally been, by his 
f f C Z 



4>36 MR. BIRKBECK's " LETTERS." 

situation ; giving little or no attention to the 
important consideration that the mass of those 
who read his book know nothing of the objec- 
tions to the country concerning which he writes ; 
that they really can have no conception of the 
entire change of life which is required — of the 
extreme difference which exists between an Eng- 
lish residence, and one in the back woods of 
America ; and that many of them may possess 
neither the enthusiasm nor the accommodateable- 
ness (as a correspondent of mine at Liverpool 
expressed it) of which Mr. Birkbeck and his 
family so evidently and so largely partake : — I 
say, not perhaps sufficiently attending to these 
circumstances, he appears to me to bring every 
thing which is pleasing in his new settlement 
forward upon the canvas, throwing every ob- 
jection into the shade, insomuch that his two 
works, however contrary to his actual intention, 
have, I really fear, the effect, to general readers, 
of making " the worse appear the better 
reason." For myself, highly as 1 think of Mr. 
Birkbeck, (though I have not the honour of a 
personal acquaintance,) and anxious as I cer- 
tainly am, that in the event of our going to 
Illinois, we should be in his neighbourhood, 
yet we must all of us be ready to allow that 
every one in resolving upon a measure so impor- 
tant, not only to himself but to his posterity, 
should examine and re-examine every statement ; 
exercising the most deliberate caution, and, if 



THE AMERICAN PEOPLE. 437 

possible, expelling altogether the mere sug- 
gestions of the imagination, remembering that, 
in the language of Mr. Birkbeck, the country he 
describes " is the real world, and no poetical 
" Arcadia." 

In going to America then, I would say gene- 
rally, the emigrant must expect to find — not an 
economical or cleanly people ; not a social or ge- 
nerous people ; not a people of enlarged ideas ; 
not a people of liberal opinions, or towards whom 
you can express your thoughts " free as air f* 
not a people friendly to the advocates of liberty 
in Europe ; not a people who understand liberty 
from investigation and from principle"; not a 
people who comprehend the meariihg of the 
words "honour" and "generosity." On the 
other hand he will find a country possessed 
of the most enlightened civil and political ad- 
vantages ; a people reaping the full reward 
of their own labours, a people not paying 
tythes, and not subjected to heavy taxation 
without representation ; a people with a small 
national debt - y a people without spies and in- 
formers ; a people without an enormous stand- 
ing army ; a people in possession of an extent 
of territory capable of sustaining an increase of 
millions and tens of millions of population ; and 
a people rapidly advancing towards national 
wealth and greatness. 

The classes of British society who would be 

f f a 



438 CLASSES WHO SHOULD EMIGRATE. 

benefited by an exchange of country, are, I 
conceive, first, that large and much injured 
body of men, who are here chained to the 
country and the political system, which op- 
presses and grinds them to the earth,— -I mean 
our extreme poor. They would not be in 
America a week, before they would experience 
a rapid advance in the scale of being. Instead 
of depending for subsistance upon charity soup, 
occasional parochial relief, and bowing with 
slavish submission to the tyrant of the poor-house; 
they would, if industrious and willing to labour, 
earn 4s. 6d. to 6s. 9d. a day, have meat at least 
seven times in the week, and know " no one who 
" could make them afraid." The second class 
would be the mechanics, in branches of first ne- 
cessity, with the general exclusion, however, of 
those acquainted with the British staple manu- 
factures of cotton and woollen only ; but for 
others, whose earnings here are under 30s. a 
week, or whose employment is of that precarious 
nature, that they cannot reasonably calculate, 
by the exercise of prudence and economy, on 
laying by any thing, for what is called " a rainy 
day," or on making a provision for old age — • 
for such persons as these, particularly if they 
have, or anticipate the having a family, emigra- 
tion to America will certainly advance their pe- 
cuniary interests, though it may not enlarge their 
mental sphere of enjoyments. To, these two 

14 



CLASSES WHO SHOULD EMIGRATE. 

classes, I would further add that of the small 
farmer who has a family, for whom he can now 
barely provide the necessaries of life, and con- 
cerning a provision for whom, when his own grey 
hairs are approaching to the grave, he can look 
forward with but little confidence or satisfaction \ 
to such a man, if he should have one hundred 
pounds clear, that is, after paying all his expences 
of removal, &c, America decidedly offers induce- 
ments very superior to those afforded by this 
country. Such a father would there feel him- 
self relieved from a load of anxiety, the weight 
of which upon his spirits, and its influence in 
repressing his exertions, he is perhaps himself 
scarcely aware of, till he feels the difference 
by comparison when he has shaken it off in the 
New World j — but still to every proposed emi- 
grant-, even of these classes, 1 would say, that 
he must not expect to find either the country 
full of gold, or its inhabitants as agreeable or 
as sociable as the perhaps unequalled people 
of England. He must prepare too for very 
many privations, and should previously have 
the mind of his family, particularly that of the 
mother of his children, so entirely in unison 
with his own, that they can all have the fortitude 
and good sense necessary to bear under the 
numerous privations they will certainly be sub- 
jected to, keeping in mind the substantial ad- 
vantages they will enjoy, and setting off present 
f f 4 



440 CLASSES WHO SHOULD EMIGRATE. 

evil against their future and increasing prospe- 
rity, which, in such a country, with a soil 
yet uncultivated, and in the infancy of its re- 
sources, may be considered as almost insured 
to them. 

The man of small fortune, who cares little 
about politics, to whom the comforts of England 
are perhaps in some degree essential, but who 
wishes to curtail his expenditure, would not 
act wisely by emigrating to America. Indeed, 
should such a man make the attempt, he would 
return as expeditiously as did a family who 
arrived at New York in the Pacific, on the 25th 
March, with the intention of continuing, but 
who took a passage back in the same vessel the 
following week ; — they went to America in the 
cabin, they departed from it in the steerage. 

The artist may succeed, but the probability 
is, that he will not do so. I know instances on 
both sides, where, perhaps, equal talent has 
been possessed. A Mr. Shiels, a portrait-painter, 
who was a fellow-passenger in the Washington, 
has been eminently successful in New York; 

Mr. — , who arrived about the same time, 

has been unable to procure his boarding ex- 
pences. Generally, I should anticipate, judging 
from the character and habits of the people, 
that, at least, the superior artist would not find 
it to his advantage to emigrate. The lawyer 
and the doctor, and, turning to another class, 



EMIGRATION. 441 

the clerk and the shopman, will find no opening 
in America. 

The London linen and woollen draper, and 
haberdasher, who has large capital, good con- 
nections in this country, and who would adopt 
the most improved English modes of transacting 
retail business, would, I think, be very success- 
ful ; — though, it should be understood, that 
shopkeeping is overdone throughout America; 
but their plan of doing businesses so defective, 
that I conceive there may be a favourable op- 
portunity for a person with the above qualifi- 
cations* 

A literary man will not meet with any encou- 
ragement, the American library being imported, 
and newspaper editors having no inducement 
to occupy their talents upon any topics beyond 
extracts from English papers, advertisements, 
and shipping intelligence. 

The very superior mechanic, in a business of 
which the articles have heretofore been import- 
ed, might succeed ; and if he did so at all, it 
would probably be in an eminent degree. Two 
cases of this sort came under my knowledge : 

Mr. , of P -, manufacturer of bird-cages, 

fenders, and brass stands for fire-places, arrived 
in America, without property, has brought up 
a large family, and is now a man of considerable 

wealth. Mr. , of , a piano-forte 

maker, has been similarly successful. I do not 



442 CLASSES TO EMIGRATE. 

state these cases on the ground that there is now 
an opening in either of these callings, but 
merely as illustrative of the idea given at the 
commencement of this paragraph. 

The merchant I do not conceive would be very 
successful, that being a profession so adapted to 
the native American habits, and besides it is. 
entirely pre-occupied. 

To the capitalist, as such, I hardly know 
what to say : America is the country of specu- 
lation, and therefore, as such, capital might be 
employed with singular advantage. On the 
whole, to such I can only recommend a perusal 
of the previous details. 

Knowing that you feel interested in Mr. Birk- 
beck's settlement, I forward a plan of it, which 
was sent from Illinois to this country a short 
time before my arrival in that territory, by a 
gentleman connected with Mr. Birkbeck. 



MR. BIRKBECK S PvESIDENCE. 



wa 



Flan shelving the situation of Mr. Birkbeck's and Mr. Flower's 
first purchase in the Illinois territory. 

Range X. Township II. East of 3d. Meridian. 





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32 


33 


34 


35 


36 



East 



Note. — Every square in the above is one mile, or 640 
acres, 36 miles forming a. township; the squares are called 
sections. 

REFERENCES, &c. 



* English Prairie," in lat. 38° 30' N. and long. 88°W. 
of London, is 4j miles long, and 4? miles wide; it is high on 
the N. and E. sides, and lies on a ridge about equal distances 
(6 miles) from the Great and the Little Wabash. 

The strong line* inclose Mr. Birkbeck's and Mr. Flower's 
purchases. 



444 MR. birkbeck's residence. 

f Site, said to be that intended for Mr. Birkbeck's house. 

Proposed line of cottages. 

o A hunting cabin of Mr. Birkbeck's party. 

Entries of American back woods' men, all but six 

of which are said to have been made between August and 
November 1817. 



APPENDIX. 



FOR THE INFORMATION OF EMIGRANTS. 

Choice of a vessel. — A ship is preferable to a brig, 
as the sea motion in the former will be less felt, and the 
accommodations are generally superior. The English 
ships in the American trade are not equal to those in 
other trades ; whilst, on the contrary, the best American 
vessels are in the British trade ; so that it is well to select 
an American ship, the safe age of which will be according 
to the quality of the timber and the building, and these 
can only be known by persons very conversant in those 
subjects. There are certain ships of established reputation, 
a few of which go to the port of London, and a greater 
number to Liverpool; among the former are the 
Eiectra, Captain Robinson, and the Tontine, Captain 
Turly, for Philadelphia : the Criterion, Captain Avery, 
and the Minerva Smyth (a very superior ship), Captain 
Allen, for New York ; there is also the Venus of New 
York, the character of which is, I believe, respectable ; 
but I cannot speak of her from personal knowledge. 
From the port of Liverpool there are a great number of 
first-rate ships for Philadelphia, Boston, and New York ; 
among the latter is what are called the " Packet Line," 
which consists of the Pacific, (an old but good vessel,) 
Captain Williams ; the Amity, Captain Stanton ; the 
Courier, Captain Bowne ; and the James Munroe, 
Captain Watkinson (Captain Watkinson is a careful 
and excellent seaman). One of these vessels sails punc- 
tually on the first of every month from Liverpool. The 



446 APPENDIX. 

charge for passage is, in the cabin 45 guineas, which 
includes wine, and, indeed, almost every luxury — iri 
the steerage 91. exclusive of every thing but water. 
The house of Cropper, Benson, and Co. at Liverpool, 
are the agents for these ships, which are first-rate iri 
every respect, and all their commanders are men of 
great experience. There are also, quite equal to these, 
the Nestor, Captain Stirling ; the Atlantic, Captain 
Matlock ; and the Anne Maria, Captain Waite (of the 
latter vessel and captain, Mr. Flower, who recently went 
in her with a large party to the United States, speaks in 
the very highest terms) : to these I would add, as re- 
spectable ships, the Ann, the Carolina Ann, and the 
Importer. There are several others of this class with 
whose character I am not familiar ; but it would be judi- 
cious in every person to make minute enquiries as to the 
character of the ship and captain with which they pro- 
pose engaging ; for it should be known that there are 
some very indifferent American ships, which go to both 
Liverpool and London, and particularly the latter port. 
A regular trader is generally to be preferred to a chance 
ship. The prices (with the exception of the packet ships) 
will vary according to circumstances : for the cabin from 
30 to 45, and for the steerage from 7 to 10 guineas. 
It should be remarked that even this is a subject of 
barter. A few ships sail from Bristol and Greenock for 
New York — the Fanny from the latter port is rather 
celebrated. A passage from Havre, in France, to Ame- 
rica, is often to be obtained much cheaper than from 
this country. Should a large party engage the same 
vessel, they would act prudently to procure an extra 
boat, for in case of accident or shipwreck, the two ship- 
boats would not be found sufficient ; and upon such 
melancholy occurrences the crew commonly escape, and 
the passengers are lost 



ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 44^ 

Cabin Passengers, though supplied by the Captain, 
would find a small private stock desirable. A plum 
cake, soda powders, a few good apples and oranges (the 
latter will keep if not previously bruised, and if each 
orange is carefully rolled in paper), preserves of several 
kinds, and cider, which will be found particularly plea- 
sant at sea. 

Steerage Passengers should provide for seventy, 
though they may not be out more than fifty days. They 
are compelled by law to take 80lbs. of meat. I 
should recommend a variety ; say 30lbs. of beef, 20 of 
ham, 20 of tongue, 10 of bacon : herrings are plea- 
sant, and salt cod particularly so, when eaten with egg- 
sauce : 50lbs. of bread, of the best biscuit, and loaves cut 
in slices and toasted : rusks will be found very pleasant 
in tea : 30 to 40lbs. of flour ; a few pounds of oatmeal ; 
ditto of rice ; ditto of groats ; ditto of arrow-root ; 1 
cheese; lOOlbs. potatoes. Have a small net bag to boil 
them in : this will prevent confusion with the cook, and 
also their being exchanged for others of, perhaps, an 
inferior quality. 5lbs. coffee, ground, and kept corked in 
a bottle, for the purpose of excluding the atmospheric 
air: lib. tea; 14lbs. sugar: a small quantity of spirits, 
of wine, and bottled porter : the latter, mixed with an 
equal quantity of water, with sugar and nutmeg, will be 
found very agreeable. Have a definite understanding 
for the quantity of water per day, A filtering machine 
can be bought at 79. Titchfield-street, London, for 20s. 
Eggs to be kept in bran, and frequently turned. 1 Olbs. 
butter. Milk will keep, if boiled, and mixed with sugar, 
in the proportion of 2lbs. to the quart. If the articles 
enumerated under the head Cabin Passengers can be 
afforded, they would be found particularly pleasant. If 
there are females in the party, there should be some 
fowls. A few tin articles for the purposes of cooking, 



448 APPENDIX. 

&c. Sea sickness cannot be prevented by any thing 
with which I am acquainted, though it can be materially 
lessened by being as much as possible upon deck, and by 
eating little at a time, and frequently. 

In choosing a birth, either in the cabin or steerage, 
the middle of the vessel, or as near to it as can be pro- 
cured, is desirable on account of the ship's motion 
being there less felt. Books will be an occasional, and 
but an occasional, relief to the monotony of a sea 
voyage. Those of a light and amusing character are 
the most suitable. Reading for more than half an hour 
at any one time produces the head-ache, and sensibly 
affects the eyes. Medicines are an important article of 
sea stores : they should be in pills, and taken frequently, 
with great exactness, at stated periods, and in as small 
quantities as can possibly produce the effect. Steerage 
passengers should have a specific agreement with the 
captain for the use of the place of convenience : this is an 
important consideration ; and I have heard of great in- 
convenience experienced by such persons in being denied 
this. A flute, a violin, and a pack of cards, are plea- 
sant companions. . 

Packing up, — A selection should be made in a box 
by themselves of clothes intended to be worn at sea. 
Those of the most inferior kind will do as well as the 
best. A warm great coat will be found useful. The 
provision casks should be written on u Stores." Bag 4 - 
gage must be entered at the Custom-house; and in 
procuring a cocket, care should be taken that the whole 
of the packages are enumerated ; if this is neglected, an 
additional expence will be incurred. 

Articles desirable to be taken out. — Clothing of every 
kind, except silks and silk pocket handkerchiefs. Females 
would do well to take no article of dress, particular 
in appearance, Men's trowsers should be of the WeU 



ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 449 

linglon kind only. The American fashions diSer in some 
things from ours ; and any deviation from them is nmeh 
remarked upon. Most convenient and unbreakable 
articles of domestic utensils. No cabinet furniture. A 
good stock of table-linen and bedding: whether feather- 
beds are desirable or not is, I believe, questionable* 
Carpeting, if it can be cut to suit other sized rooms ; 
stationery of every kind ; agricultural implements ; 
musical and philosophical instruments. 



United States* Duties on Importation upon the following 
Articles : 





Bar Cent. 


Side and Fire Arms *• 




20 


AH articles manufactured of brass 


- 


20 


Buttons - 




20 


Bonnets - 




30 


Bridles and Saddles 




30 


Books (blank) 


•* 


30 


Cutlery 




20 


All articles manufactured of cotton 




25 


Millinery 




SO 


All articles manufactured of copper 




20 


Ditto of pewter - 


-• 


20 


Ditto of steel - 


*r 


20 


Ditto of tin 


„ 


20 


Parasols and Umbrellas 




30 


Paper - 


- 


30 


Printing Types 


- 


20 


All articles manufactured of wool 


- 


25 


Ditto of wood 


- 


SO 


Ditto of earthen and stone ware 


- 


20 


Ale and Beer in bottles, per gallon 


8d. 




Ditto in casks 


5id. 




Shoes (leather), per pair 


13d. 





G C 



450 APPENDIX, 

Articles free of Duties : 

Philosophical Apparatus, if specially imported by ordef 9 
and for the use of any society, incorporated for phi- 
losophical or literary purposes, or for the encourage- 
ment of the fine arts, or by order and for the use of 
any seminary of learning. 

Anatomical Preparations. 

Animals imported for breed. 

Wearing Apparel, and other personal baggage, in 
actual use. 

Rate of Coins : 

English Pound Sterling is 4 dollars, 44 cents. 

Irish ditto, 4 dollars, 10 cents. 

French Livre, 1 8| cents- 

Dutch Florin, or Guilder, 40 cents. 

Fees of Officers : 

To the Collectors and Naval Officers, 
Every port entry 2 dollars. 
Permit to land goods, 20 cents. 
Every bond taken officially, 40 cents. 
Bill of health, 20 cents. 

(There is commonly a demand of two dollars made 
for this by the captain : this is, of course, an 
imposition.) 

Passengers' Baggage, $c. 

Entry is to be made by passengers of all clothes, tools 
or implements of trade, or profession, arriving in the 
United States to settle, which articles are exempted from 
duty. The form of such entry, and oath respecting the 
same, as follows : 



ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 451 

i 
Entry of baggage, wearing apparel, Sfc. imported by 

in the mastei*, from 

New- York, 

[Here the particulars to be inserted,) 

District of 
Port of 
I, do solemnly, sincerely, and truly 

swear, (or affirm,) that the entry subscribed by me and 
hereto annexed, contains, to the best of my knowledge 
and belief, a just and true account of the contents of 
the several mentioned in the said 

entry, imported in the from 

and that they contain no goods, wares, or merchandise 
whatever, other than the wearing apparel and other per- 
sonal baggage (or if the case require) and the tools of 
the trade of all which are the pro- 

perty of who has, or have arrived, who 

is, or are shortly expected to arrive in the United States : 
and are not directly or indirectly imported for any other 
person or persons, or intended for sale. 

So help me God. 

If the articles shall be entered by any other person 
than the owner, bond to be given in a sum equal to the 
amount of what the duties would be, if imported subject 
to duty : that the owner shall within one year verify such 
entry on oath, or the collector may direct such baggage 
to be examined ; and if any article is contained therein, 
which ought to pay duty, entry must be made thereof; 
and if an entiy is made as aforesaid, and upon examin- 
ation thereof any article is found therein subject to 
duty, (not haviag been expressed at the time of making 
the entry) it is forfeited, and the person in whose bag- 
g g 2 



45£ APPENDIX. 

gage the same shall be found, forfeits and shall pay treble 
the value thereof. 

Mechanics, intending to continue as such, would do 
well to remain in New York 9 Baltimore, or Philadelphia, 
until they become familiarised with the country. Per- 
sons designing to settle in the western States will save 
some expences by landing in Philadelphia. Those to 
whom a few pounds is not an object, will shorten their 
voyage two or three days by arriving at New York. 
The summer route from thence to Philadelphia is par- 
ticularly pleasant, with the exception of 25 miles land- 
carriage, and sleeping one night on the road : the whole 
can be completed for about ten dollars. In winter, there 
are excellent stages (by far the best in America) from 
New York to Philadelphia : the fare is from eight to ten 
dollars, and the journey is completed in fourteen hours, 
— distance, 96 miles. 

The route to the western country, by way of New 
Orleans, is attended with many disadvantages : it is much 
longer, and more dangerous, in consequence of a great 
deal of coasting, and the difficulties of the gulph of 
Florida. The voyage from the Balaize, at the junction 
of the Mississippi with the gulph of Mexico, to New Or- 
leans, though but 100 miles, is always tedious, and some- 
times vessels are three weeks in getting up that distance, 
The yellow fever is of annual occurrence at New Or- 
leans. The steam-boats, though numerous, do not pro- 
ceed at stated periods, and a residence at New Orleans 
may be long, and must be expensive ; and to engage a pas- 
sage in a keel-boat tip the stream, would be an almost 
endless undertaking. 

The best mode, in my judgment, is to proceed from 
Philadelphia by way of Pittsburgh. Horseback is .very 



ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 453 

preferable to the stage, particularly on the Allegany 
mountains. A poor family would have their baggage 
conveyed in the cheapest way by the regular stage- 
waggons, — themselves walking ; and this they will find 
in crossing the mountains to be better than riding (ex- 
cept on horseback.) They should take with them as 
good a stock of eatables as they can with convenience, 
the charges on the road being very extravagant. Those 
who have their own waggons should have them made as 
strong as possible, and their horses should be in good 
condition. Small articles of cutlery, and alt the ma- 
chinery necessary for repairs on the road, are of first 
necessity. When arrived at Pittsburgh, the cheapest 
and easiest mode of travelling is to float down the river ; 
for which purpose there are boats of almost every variety, 
(steam-boats excepted,) from 2s. 3d. upwards, per hun- 
dred miles. Upon this mode of travelling I do not en- 
large : half an hour's residence in Pittsburgh will convey 
more information than I could in twenty pages. Warm 
clothing should be taken, as there is sure to be some 
severe weather in every part of America. The articles 
required in floating down the river will be nearly as Fol- 
lows : — The " Pittsburgh Navigator," a small volume, 
and which may be had at Cramer and Spears; nails, 
hammer, hatchet, tinder-box, box for fire, gridiron, iron 
pot, coffee-pot, coffee-mill, tea-pot, plates, spoons, knives 
and forks, mugs, candles, coffee, tea, sugar, spirits, meat, 
potatoes, bread, pens and ink, paper, medicine, and a 
gun. If there is what is called " a good stage of water," 
that is, if the waters of the Ohio are high, which they 
always are in the spring and autumn, boats will be 
taken by the stream, without rowing, from three to 
four miles per hour. Except in cases of dense fog, they 
can be allowed to float at night in the Ohio. In the 



454 APPENDIX. 

Mississippi this would not be safe, the navigation of the 
latter river being both difficult and dangerous. Unless 
the waters of the Ohio are very high at its falls near 
Louisville, a pilot should be engaged to navigate the 
boat over them. 



THE END, 



gj* The Author "drill take pleasure in attending to any 
communications on the subject of America, if letters art 
addressed to him (post-paid J at Messrs. Coates and 
Fearoris Wine-Merchants, 18, Adam-Street, Adelphi* 
London. 



Printed by Strahan and Spottiswoode, 
Printers- Street, London, 



FE IRON'S 
SKETCHES 

or 

AMERICA. 



I 



